Sydneykid

We get pretty close to 300 4wkw with the R34 N1's (ball bearing). But that is with a standard (blue printed) N1 RB26DETT. Probably another 50 or so with cams, intercooler, head work etc. Love those 2530's, 385 4wkw is the best I have seen. Build boost almost as fast as the R34 N1's. My favourite all round turbos for a 2.6 litre. GT-SS's seem to do a little better than the old 2510's, so around 325 4wkw. I heard 600bhp made 365 4wkw with GTSS's, his engine is extensivley modified though. Hope that helps:cheers:

I vote for chip, easy in an R32:cheers:

Not to mention "Starion" :wassup: PS; you guys have far too much time on your hands:cheers:

High............I saw 2.5 bar. Long...........a couple of milliseconds Knock..........maybe 2 or 3 pings Then............the ECU killed the fun, like a light switch But..............I did it again, just to make sure Again...........the ECU killed the fun, like a light switch Show off......ho, ho, ho, a standard turbo makes 2.5 bar Damage.......I pulled the plugs and there was ZERO signs of detonation So................I didn't worry any more, the standard ECU will save me

I would go for the 256's if you want to keep the standard valve springs and 264's if you change them. You can change the valve springs without removing the head. Stick it at TDC on that cylinder and use the leak down tester to pressurise the combustion chamber. This holds the valves closed while you compress the springs and remove the collets and retainers. Swap valve springs and reverse the process, then move on to the next valve.

I have heard good things about these guys, maybe an alternative to buying retail. http://www.jntperformance.com.au/

If you are using the IEBC with the standard ECU it will go "rich and retard" to protect the engine. Just as it would if the standard vacuum hose to the wastegate actuator leaked or was broken. If you are using it with a POWER FC then the excessive airflow and knock warnings would flash the engine check light on the dash. Depending on the model of Skyline, the PFC will also use the boost correction map to protect the engine. Having tested it during the set up process on the Stagea, the standard ecu protection is quite savage, you wouldn't need to be looking at the boost gauge to know something was wrong.

Bloody fantastic, 150 rwkw at ~3,750 rpm is impressive. It appears to run out of airflow a little bit over 6,500 rpm, what's the boost curve look like? I am now used to looking at N1 turbo dyno graphs, your standard turbos are pretty much on the mark from memory.

On the 3 warnings (AFM, knock, inj) the PFC has adjustments for the thresholds. Check your settings as I have seen a knock threshold set at 20, usually it is set at 40 or 60. Using the Datalogit, we have found that the peak readings recall seems to need more than 1 event. If you had like 21 knock for a millisecond it may be enough to get the warning light to flash once. But the recall needs maybe 2 milliseconds to log it. My advise, don't strees, move on:cheers:

You can't leave lift out, you could support the argument tha tthe higher lift (9.2 mm versus 8.2 mm) adds more to the mid range than the longer duration takes away. The concept of improving mid range on a small capacity turbo engine is to get more boost sooner. That means efficiency improvements, all the usual stuff needed to get the air in and out as efficiently as possible. Higher lift is a very good efficieny improvement. My usual example, we have an RB25DET that makes 265 rwkw, but the important thing is it has more power EVERYWHERE than standard. From idle to rev limiter the efficiency improvements help the not overly large turbo (GCG ball bearing hi flow) to produce boost at low rpms and yet still have sufficient airflow for its rated capacity (450 bhp). It's all about average power and an 11.9 at 120 mph is testament to the effectiveness. The real secret is to get the components all matched up to suite the power curve that you want. For example it would be a waste of time (and a lot of money) trying to get improved low down power from a turbo that doesn't produce boost until 5,000 rpm. Then it is down to the full rpm range tuning, I see plenty of engines that are perfectly tuned from 6,000 rpm to to rev limit, but are truly crap under that. So it is important to talk to your tuner about what YOU want, not "drop it off and come back later" expecting a perfect job. Remember what might be "perfect" for you, may well be "terrible" for someone else. Hope that helps:cheers:

I have done a couple of R32GTST's (RB20DET) using the standard R34GTT intercooler. It seems to work very well, the max power I have seen was 205 rwkw which is not too shabby. The only other mods on that car were a Power FC with boost control kit, 3.25" dump back exhaust (it has the standard dump) and a steel turbine wheel in the standard turbo. Obviously it has fuel supply upgrades, GTR injectors and fuel pump, but they don't add to the power in themselves. My power target for the Stagea is 200 4wkw, so this will be a bit more than the R32GTST has. But I will be using a ball bearing hi flow RB25DET turbo which won't need as much boost to make the necessary airflow, so the turbo outlet temps should be lower. That's why it is an interesting project.

I know what you mean about the ducting, making it from scratch is something I would leave to our race team fabricator, he is a professionsal. But I figured if I use the standard plastic duct to bolt up to the R34 GTT intercooler, then it shouldn't be too hard to make up some aluminium add ons to match the vent in the bumper. Like we do with the oil coolers on the race cars. Yeh, the picture of the IP GTR came out OK, that was taken at Wakefield Park at the last round on the NSW Improved Production Championship. I have a few more that I will use over the next month or so.

Our Stagea S1 (1997) RSFour (4wd) Auto RB25DET (non Neo) weighs 1694 kgs with a full tank of petrol and no one in it. It is a waggon, so it is about as aerodynamic as a house brick.

The R34 GTT standard intercooler arrived yesterday, as you can see from the pictures it is in almost brand new condition; The comparisons with the standard Stagea intercooler follow, note the extra thickness and the 3 extra rows (height) Time to measure it up, the core is 80 mm thick, compared to the standard Stagea's 65 mm. The core is 210mm wide and 225mm high (18 rows) while the standard Stagea intercooler is 210mmmm by 185mm (15 rows). This would indicate an improvement in flow of 23%, R34GTT is 206kw and Stagea is 170kw, that's a 21% improvement in power. Seems logical that Nissan would have some mathematical basis for upsizing the intercooler The first job is the to clean out the inside, there is always some oil film in there, regardless of how new the engine is. I will be using the usual 50/50 kero and metho mix, slosh it around and empty out. Keep doing that until it comes out clean. Then flush with hot water and leave in the sun to dry out. This is what the first flush of kero/metho looked like; And remember that's out of an R34GTT with ~30K's on it. What do you reckon the inside of your intercooler looks like? The standard Stage mounting brackets bolt straight up to the R34GTT intercooler, as per the following picture. As do the intercooler pipes, absolutely no modifications were required; To further improve the cooling, I want to have most of the air that goes through the LHS bumper vent go though the intercooler. Standard, around 30% of the air that goes though the vent, is ducted through the intercooler. This is the standard Stagea plastic ducting bolted onto the R34GTT intercooler. As you can see I had to redrill 1 of the three holes (RHS) and make up a spacer (strip of aluminium) for the third (top LHS). If you look at the above picture you can see where bugs have come in through the vent in the bumper and hit the plastic above the standard duct. This was a good hint on how to configure a larger vent. Notice how the standard Stagea plastic ducting is a bit short for the extra height of the R34GTT intercooler. The new piece of ducting also has to fix that. So the next job is to take the standard Stagea plastic intercooler ducting and add some aluminium to it to expand its dimensions to those closure to the vent. I cut a piece of alumium sheet to the right dimensions and bolted (3 X 6 mm bolts and nuts) it to the top of the ducting. Then I cut a triangular hole in the standard plastic ducting to enable the airflow trapped by the additional ducting to flow though the core. Then it is time to fit the R34GTT intercooler and ducting into the Stagea. Since the pipework is the same as the standard cooler this is a pretty simple job, no cutting or modification required. I did the install from underneath, with the front bumper in place, this made it easier for me to measure up the ducting. The next step is to give it a run up on the 4wd dyno and see what sort of results we get. I am anticipating a 25 to 30 rwkw increase from the intercooler and the exhaust upgrade. This is a bit more than you would expect from the parts alone, as I believe I can increase the boost with the IEBC by 0.1 bar and lean of the mixtures with the DFA to a more power friendly 12 to 1. Neither of which I can do at the moment because the standard Stagea ECU is a bit too smart. Removing the restrictions, particularly the exhaust, should mean I don't have to wind in as much correction. Hope you will enjoy reading about this as much as I will actually doing it. PS; this is a live post and will be updated as we go along, pictures and all.

Most of ours are in RHS front vent, the LHS front vent is for feeding the engine with ambient air. The intercooler already compromises the airflow to the radiator, an oil cooler mounted in front of the radiator just makes it worse. We use aluminium ducting to make sure all of the air that goes in the vent goes through the oil coiler, not around it.

Is that camber 1.1 negative or 1.1 positive? I wouldn't be running toe in, zero or slight toe out is best for turn in. Post up the rest of the settings please. How low is this C31? If it's too low, they go positive camber on compression. They also bump steer something terrible. What tyre pressures? Front spring rate? Front stabiliser bar rate? Rear stabiliser bar rate? That should just about cover it, with that data we can make a pretty good assesment.

Hi Jess, have a read of the Jaycar IEBC and DFA thread, it explains everything.

If you are really seriuous about drifting, an RB in a S13/14/15 chasis is not a smart move. It moves the centre of gravity up too high at the front (that's why it hits on the bonnet) so the change of direction induces excessive roll. Even worse, it moves the polar moment of inertia a long way forward, so maintaining a drift becomes very difficult. I am not a big fan of SR20's, but you really should consider your options. If you have gone too far down the RB path to turn back, then the RIPS inlet looks to provide the best option for throttle control, which is what you are going ot need. It's not perfect, but if you have painted yourself into a corner you don't have a lot of choices. You will just have to be mindful of the differential tuning requirements of each cylinder. cheers:

I don't care who they are, they can't issue a defect notice on a car that is legal in the state it is registered in. This was tested many years ago in the Federal Court, Queensland had different registration laws with regard to extra lights. NSW tried to defect the trucks carrying the extra lights (that were legal in Queensland), they lost. This case (and few others) is the reason why all the States signed the national agreement on common ADR enforcement as provided by DOTARS. SA has broken that agreement, if anyone takes SA to the Federal Court they will win. A copy of the agreement is availabe under Freedom of Information from DOTARS.

Nope, Commonwealth/State Law doesn't work that way, if the car is legal in Vic they can't defect it in SA. Take the defect sticker off and post it to them, with a thank you note of course.

Not a bad plan, my suggestions follow; The R34GTR front stabiliser bar is too small (in rate) for a GTT, we use 24 mm on a GTR and 27 mm on a GTT. Adjustable of course. Part # BNF24XZ The rear bar I would suggest is a 22 mm adjustable, Part # BNR11XZ The front caster kit part # is KCA331, max adjustment should give you around 6 to 7 degrees positive caster. The 25 mm lowering is OK for the front camber, that will give you 1 degree negative, a Whiteline camber kit will add the next 2 degrees that you will need. So max adjustment is 3 degrees negative and min adjustment in 1 degree negative. Makes it easy to have separate street and race settings. Part # KCA348 The 25 mm lowering is not OK for the rear camber, it will give you 2 degrees negative. You may be able to reduce that down to 1 degree using the standard adjuster. If not, a Whiteline camber kit will enable that. Not really necessary to have separate street and track rear camber. Part # KCA347 A rear sub-frame align & lock kit (Part # KCA349) allows diff angle change & subframe lock, essential for any serious track work. The Whiteline spring rates are a good match for the Bilsteins, make sure you get a couple of extra circlip grooves machined into the Bilsteins (front and rear) , that way you can get the height just right for your purposes. Take a look a the Stagea Suspension thread for the details. Hope that was of some help:cheers: