Sydneykid

What have you done about the Park/Neutral switch from the auto? If you don't switch it on or bridge it out, the car will not start.

Holy cow not another one! Spend your $1400 on something that will actually make the car go faster.

Hi GTR94, if you had done a search you would have found out that GTR AFM's are 65 mm. A search would have told you that Z32 AFM's are 80 mm (same as RB20/25) and Q45's are 90 mm. By doing a search you would have noted that NONE of them are a straight swap over. They won't fit the airfilter box or POD's for a start, as quick search would have shown. The ECU will also need retuning, as per the search results. PS; did I mention that you should do a search?

Nope, never seen one of these, despite many years of looking. I always seem to find a reason, you just have to look hard enough.

Hi Gordon, enough guess work, time for some real data. Take it along and get the 4 wheel alignment checked (not just the front). Don't get them to adjust anything, yet. Then post the results up here and we can tell you whats wrong instantly.

Hi Pete, we use the Whiteline camber kits (offset bush style) front and rear as well as the caster kits (also offset bush style) . With 7 degrees positive caster on GTST's and 3 degrees positive caster on the GTR's we find it unnecessary to run more than 3 degrees negative camber on the front. One the rear, we run a max of 2 degrees negative using the standard camber adjusters plus one Whitleine camber kit per side. You can use 2 kits (both inner and outer bushes) for less than 1 degree, but we have not found it to be necessary. We found that lowering to a beneficial ride height (not very low) adds too much negative on the rear and we actually had to take some negative off with the camber kit. The standard adjuster did not have enough adjustment. Lowering does not have as much effect on the front, but the Whitleine adjusters are more than enough. Hope that is of some help. PS; all the cars have adjustable Whiteline stabiliser bars front and rear. Being 27 mm front on the GTST's, 24 mm front on the GTR's and 22 mm or 24 mm on the rear of both.

Hmmm, a bit of theory here........... The exhaust back pressure, at 40 psi, is way higher than I would want. It is 20 psi higher than the boost. Normally I would expect to see 4 to 6 psi higher, 20 psi higher means a lot of restriction in the turbine. MY guess is that the boost pressure is not opening the wastegate actuator prematurely. What is happening is the back pressure in the turbine is pushing the wastegate flap itself open. The 20 psi above boost acting on a large surface area wastegate flap is too much for the wastegate actuator spring to resist. I would suggest a chat with your turbo supplier may help. Some relief in the turbine back pressuire should give big rewards, both in maintained boost levels and less restriction. So you may cure both problems, wastegate creep and tapering off boost at higher rpms.

My best suggestion is to ask Bosch, why their pumps exceed their ratings by such large amounts. I have coverd this question a number of times in previous posts. Please do a search if you need a more detailed explanation Simply put, my understanding is that Bosch quoted flows are at 12 volts, at maximum pressure, over a long period of continuous operation and using a control liquid (not petrol). The outputs I have posted are as tested, some personally (by me) and some by a reputable tester in the US. They are "real world results" and I see no reason why you wouldn't get the same results. I have measured the voltages at the pumps on a number of Skylines, I have found voltages as low as 10.5 volts. This is with the engine running and a perfectly good battery and alternator. There is voltage drop in all wiring and a bad earth (or 2) can result in quite low voltages. Add a large drain pump and you have a recipe for less than satisfactory results. An example, I have seen a Skyline with 2 X 044's running the standard wiring. I removed one of the 044's an rewired it with decent size wire, direct to the battery via a relay and the one left pumped more fuel than the 2 X 044's did before.

Hi grepin, nope, doing a gearbox service on the R32 GTST. The team race cars are demanding a lot of time, with 3 race meetings in 2 states in 4 weeks. So I have had no time for my car. Before I get into your problem, a quick clarification on the IEBC boost control advantages might help. The IEBC is great when you want, say, 10 psi boost and have a 5 psi wastegate actuator (as in the Stagea). The 5 psi wastegate actuator opens quite a lot at 2 psi. If you have a bleed valve or a normal (parrallel) EBC, they will let 2 psi get to the wastegate actuator at around 6 psi of boost. This means the wastegate starts opening at 6 psi, not the 10 psi that you want. This is the big advantge of the IEBC, you can set it so that 0 psi gets to the wastegate actuator until the 10 psi is reached. Moving on, I am not sure that I understand your problem, let's see if I have it right. You are running 20 psi boost and using a 20 psi wastegate actuator and you think the wastegate is opening at less than 20 psi. Have I got that correct? If so, forgot about boost controllers for a minute. The real problem is you don't have 20 psi seat pressure on the wastegate. You really need to measure the seat pressure to make sure that you have the wastegage actuator adjusted to for 20 psi seat pressure. Now let's add the PFC boost controller into the equation. Being a parrallel style of EBC, and having a 20 psi booost target, it is going to let 2 psi through at around 10 psi. A 20 psi wastegate actuator is not going to open, even a tiny bit, at 2 psi. At 15 psi boost it will be 3 or 4 psi, still not enough to overcome the seat pressure. Maybe at 18 or 19 psi you might get a bit of wastegate opening. Now the IEBC will most certainly overcome this early opening, but it is nowhere near as dramatic an improvement as when you have, say, a 5 psi wastegate actuator. That's the big advantage of the IEBC, I no longer have to pay rediculous amounts of money for higher psi wastegate actuators for internal wastegates or "special" springs for external wastegates. Hope that was of some help:cheers:

What PNB posted is spot on, the pumps are designed for 13.8 volts, they like that voltage and by only feeding them 12 volts they are underdone. Worth $400? I don't know, what I do know is I tune my cars on the dyno with a fuel pressure guage connected. If the pump can't supply enough fuel then the pressure drops. Then and only then do I consider it time for a new pump.

Bathurst is in NSW:cheers:

So you are never going to drive it on the street?

Fuel economy is throttle position dependant, if you want better fuel economy don't push the pedal down so far. It is always "worthwhile upgrading the stock intercooler" if you are using max power a lot of the time. Or if you simply want more power. The standard intercooler has a fair bit of capacity, but it does get restrictive at higher rpm and boost levels. There is no absolute number, but I would be quite comfortable at 0.6 bar and 150 rwkw using the standard intercooler for normal road driving. More boost than that or higher power output or track work and it's intercooler upgrade time.

I assume that means it returns the air between the AFM and the turbo. That's impossible, the BOV has vented the pressure. Either you have a very slow reacting boost guage or the BOV is not venting properly. That's a very long time, there is some delay in all cars, but 1/10th second is more like it. How fast is the lambda sensor? I have yet to find one that is accurate at 1/10th second. Sorry I don't understand what this means 10 to 1 is not overly rich, that's what it would run standard. They should be no richer than when it is running at those rpm's. Do you have a dyno graph of the A/F ratios? What have you tried so far? We have 5 cars running PFC's (from 225 rwkw to 415 rwkw) and none of them have this problem. I don't even know what the problem is for sure. But I suspect it's either the basic setup of the PFC (injector lag maybe) or the tuning.My best suggestion, post up a dyno graph of the A/F ratios, power and boost curve. Then list out alll the mods. There are plenty of smart guys on here with lots of Skyline experience, if we have the necessary data I am sure one of use will know the answer.

PCV = Positive Crankcase Ventilation PCV Valve = a one way valve that allows the crankcase to breath into the plenum when not on boost. On boost the valve closes, otherwise the boost pressure would escape from the plenum and go into the crankcase. If you have a catch can with 2 inlets, then it would be wise to plumb the two cam covers to the catch can, one hose from each. If you only want to run one hose then you can buy a neat bung from Clark rubber to block off the other one. Hope that helps:cheers:

Yep, quite a few actually, on the road and circuit. Not a bad thing when you get down to it, easily the best XR6 so far. But the build quality is .......................well it's still a Falcon, let's leave it at that. For the same prices as a new XR6 turbo Sedan I could buy an R33GTR, that's a fair comparison. But a Stagea waggon versus an XR6 sedan is not a true comparison. If you want a waggon, then the Stagea is easily superior to a Falcon waggon, any Falcon waggon.

Jumbos are made by Allsprings at Moorebank in Sydney. Kings won't do specials, neither will Whiteline. They both have designed catalogued springs for Skylines around -40 mm. Pay a visit to the Whiteline website, it has the centre of wheel to guard measurements for their springs, the proper way to measure height. www.whiteline.com.au

What tyres are you using?

There are 2 X Mobil refineries in Australia, Altona and Adelaide, but none in Queensland. So next time you are at your favourite Mobil service station ask the owner where they get their Synergy 98 from. My bet is the BP Bulwer Island refinery, since Shell don't have a refinery in Queensland ether.

There are two points of view here, yours and the workshops...... The workshop must have lapt top tuning software (Datalogit or Excel) because you can't lock maps with the Commander. Simply plugging in the Commander will not reset the maps, that has to done via the Initialise command. Since it is lap top programmed I would expect that they would have kept a copy of your maps. I would, as it makes tuning the next similar car to yours much easier. I have a copy of all of my maps. But there is another point of view here..... They only saw you once for the tune, then someone deleted their good work on the maps and they had to replace them. You had an idle problem but they don't even know about it. They didn't have a chance to fix it, maybe they would have done it for nothing. You went somewhere else because it was an hour's drive, but you chose that workshop in the first place, so it's not their fault. I tell this to sooooo many people, workshops are full of humans, they are going to treat someone they know much better than a "one time charlie" that they never see again. They know the car and the drivers preferences so you get a better, faster result. They will keep the dyno charts and the maps for comparison, this menas a better result every time you go. Heavens they may even loan you a car if they knew you better. Maybe not in your case..... The absolute worse thing you can do to a workshoip is take a car in with heaps of mods, that's never had a tune and has a handfull of problems. That's not a TUNE, it turns into a full service and sometimes a basic rebuild of the work that been done. Think about how you would feel if someone booked a car in for "just a tune" and when it arrived it had screwed plugs, stuffed coils, dirty air and fuel filters, dodgy wiring and heap of smaller problems that only show up when you fix the main ones. And he wants it back in an hour with 1,000 bhp all for a cost of $100. There are 2 sides to every story:cheers:

Mmmmmm, gearboxes do take time to run in and you haven't mentioned how many K's it done since the gearbox was rebuilt. Personally i don't find GTR gearboxes to be overly heavy or slow to shift. We use exclusively Castrol synthetic lubricants (Syntrax 75W90 in the gearbox) so I have no experience with other oils. If it were me, I would have a talk to Award and see what they have to say:cheers:

Hmmmm, I thought my post was pretty specific but you seem to have missed the point. Let me have another go.... I don't give a rat's how much extra power is claimed by fitting a plenum. I could stick an ugly, lousy flowing, 10 litre square box on an engine and get more max power at one rpm point. But it would stuff up the response something terrible. The trick is getting as small a plenum as possible, for the fastest possible response, that also flows equally to all 6 cylinders and doesn't loose any power at any rpm point over the standard one. Now that's a worthwhile upgrade. I strongly suggest you take a picture of the base of the UAS plenum along to your local fabricator and ask him how much it would cost to buy the piece of 18 mmm billett alloy to start with. Then ask him how much he would charge to machine the 6 trumpets into it. What angle and taper would you suggest he use? Machine the bolt flanges. Deck for gasket seal. The top is the easy part. Don't get me wromg I am not in anyway saying that the UAS plenum would be my choice. There is still plenty of data to be provided before I will accept that it is in any way better, at my (standard internals) power target, than the standard one. PS; I'll take one of the plenums you are getting made, as long as the price is what you quoted in the above post. "Every business is in it for the money, but most are not that stupid to increase the price another $1,000 (USD) on top of their build cost " Since UAS is selling the plenum for $US1150 that means you can get one made for $US150. My cheques in the mail if that's the case. :wassup:

Are you running open to atmosphere BOV's? Or plumb back?

Hi DETurbine, about 80% of what you have posted is spot on, but there are few things that aren't. Sure it easy to say don't worry about flow and restrictions, just turn up the boost. If that's the case then why are you using a DOHC engine with 4 valves per cylinder? Shoot a single cam pushrod with 2 valves would do the job, just turn the boost up. Why are you running a big exhaust, just turn the boost up. Why are you running a low restriction air filter, just turn the boost up. Why are you running a hi efficiency intercooler, just turn the boost up. I could go on, but I suspect you get the drift. "Turn the boost up" is old world turbo thinking. Mostly it leads to poor response, the thing that turbos used to be infamous for, put foot down, count to 10 and hang on. Every single bit of restriction that can be removed or lessened means a smaller turbo can be used for the same power output. It means a smaller intercooler can be used. It means smaller pipework. It means less retarded ignition timing. It means pump petrol, not special brews. It means less pressure differential beween cylinders. Lower exhaust gas temperatures. Lengthened engine life. I could go on, but I suspect you get the drift. This plenum is an example of an attempt to lower restriction, the cheaper alternatives are examples of "just turn the boost up, who cares about restriction". That's why one costs $A1,500 ($US1,150) and the other $A1,000 ($US770). My 20 cents worth:cheers:

Oh dear, a Foulcan comparison, I can relate to that, our Stagea replaced an ED waggon. Firslty the Stagea cost less than a third what a new Foulcan waggon would have The build quality is at least 3 times better in the Stagea I couldn't buy a XR6 Turbo waggon, they weren't available The Stagea handling is at least twice as good in the dry and about 20 timees better in the wet. The Foulcan waggon was very very difficult to drive fast in the wet. The depreciation of the Stagea will be less than a quarter what the Foulcan would have been I have done less than $350 in power up mods so far and the 4wd power output already exceeds the Foulcan waggon 2wd power output. And I am only 1/3 the way on my power up plan. All the power up and handling parts for the Stagea are readily available, both new and used. Better still, the knowledge on WHAT to do and what NOT to do is easily available. Any new parts I have needed (cam belt for example) I bought from my local Nissan dealer. Their Consult diagnostics computer plugs straight into the Stagea output port. Their are a few downsides, the Stagea is comfortable for 4, not 5 like the Foulcan was. It is 2.5 litres not 4 litres, the turbo makes up the difference in max power and torque, but it's still a 2.5 litre off boost. Stageas are unique, so be prepared for questions like "What is that?" or even worse "Nice Volvo". They are heavy ~1650 kgs (similar to the Foulcan waggon) and have 4wd loadings, so don't expect 2.5 litre N/A fuel economy. Modifying the Stagea is 50% of the reason why I bought one, be aware of that if you want to buy a waggon and not touch it. Insurance is a fair bit more ($1300 in my case, with Shannons). No warranty with mine, I imported it myself via a broker, saved $6K and that buys a lot of warranty parts. That, so far, I haven't needed, so it's been upgrade money. The brakes are slightly marginal, personally I would like them to be a bit better to match my power target. That is easily fixed with a set of GTR callipers, decent pads and DBA slotted rotors. My 20 cents worth:cheers: