Sydneykid

Great work Greg, good reasoning to support your choices of suppliers and processes. The forged piston silicone content is always a good discussion starter. Closely followed by bearing metalurgy. PS; I like the running in process, I do the Sydney - Bathurst - Sydney run. It has a nice variety of conditions, with some good quality mountains to cross.

We run 27 mm front bar and a 24mm rwar bar, this is the R32 GTST at Bathurst (Murrays) with the both bars on their softest settings;

In my experience, no, they don't. A few facts, we get 1 bar out of the 2530's at under 4,000 rpm on the RB26. The GTRS moving parts (compressor, shaft and turbine) weigh 25% more than the 2530 moving parts. So there is simply no way that they can be as responsive, given all else being equal. This experience is not unique, the 2 fastest GTR's at Tsukuba again this year where both running 2530's. If the GTRS's where as responsive and made more power, I am sure the unlimited budgets would have funded them.

I really couldn't give a rats about the out of round, a harmonic balancer is supposed to run out of round, after all that's how it dampens the harmonics. That's why the rubber is there, to allow for it. Obviously a dynamic balance is a good idea when the harmonic balancer is coupled with a balanced engine.

As most poeple know we have had an R34 GTT (for over 2 years now) with 265 rwkw at 1.3 bar. It uses the Tomei 260 degree Poncams and a GCG ball bearing hi flow. It makes more power EVERYWHERE than when it was standard, that's from idle to rev limiter. The best 1/4 time (I am not a drag fan, so very few runs) was an 11.9 at 120 mph. We have had similar results from 3 X RB25's running the Poncams, 256's in hydraulic applications (non Neo) and 260's in solid applications (Neo). Bottom line, if I did another one tomorrow, I would put the Poncams in again, they are a very worthwhile upgrade.

1. Easy, no mods required, other than drill and tap the block for the 12 mm RB26 head bolts, RB20/25/30 are 11 mm. We use 12.5 mm ARP head studs for their higher clamping pressure. 2. Depends on what pistons you use, what head gasket and how much you polish the combustion chambers. I have seen compression ratios from 7.5 to 1 to 13.5 to 1. If he is REALLY going to use it for circuit work, then ~ 650 bhp would be my target. We have found it very difficult to get more than that to the ground in a 2wd application. And we have very sophisticated shock absorbers, adjustable anti roll, anti dive, anti squat, caster camber and toe and a larger selection of spring rates. The main problem however, is response. Over 650 bhp even in a 3.1 litre, gets very difficult to tune for the rapid throttle response necessary for running decent and consistent lap times. Even at that power level, driving it fast requires considerable skill and experience.

Time for a decent transmision cooler, check the fluid as well.

I used the rear outlet for my boost guage as it keeps the hose shorter.

Suggestions follow; 1. No 2. No 3. No such thing as "boost cut", there is protection from excessive airflow. AFM voltage benders such as SAFC, DFA. EManage etc can be tuned to lower the AFM voltage signal to the ECU. Hence it doesn't know about the excessive airflow. 4. Yes. Hope that was of some help:cheers:

I have had a Series 1 on a Series 2, I will shortly have a Series 2 on a Stagea, I have a Series 1 on a R32, I had a Series 2 on an R34GTT. The water and oil pipes needed changing on the R32GTST, but nothing on the R33's, R34's or Stagea.

I am interested, when you say "go straight on" you mean you didn't have to make or modify anything or buy extra stuff (it was all in the kit)? The GTRS bolted straight up to the exhaust manifold with no mods? The standard flange pattern dump pipe bolted straight up to the turbine housing? The standard compressor inlet pipe clamped over the GTRS compressor snout? Or was there an adaptor in the kit? The compressor outlet fitted straight up to the intercooler inlet pipework? Or was there an adaptor in the kit? The standard water inlet and outlet pipes bolted straight on? Or where there replacement ones in the kit? The standard oil inlet and outlet pipes bolted straight on? Or where there replacement ones in the kit?

That is one hell of an interesting dyno graph RNS11Z. It is not often you get the chance to compare the same engine with different compression ratios. Can you notice the 50rwhp less at ~4,600 rpm? Or does it go through the 4,000 rpm to 5,2500 rpm band so fast you don't feel it? I notice that the current set up has ~1.5 psi more boost at 5,150 rpm, is that deliberate? Or did you have to run less boost with the higher compression? Lots of things to think about on that dyno graph, for a data not like me anyway.

I get that too, I reckon they think a waggon has to slow down for roundabouts. But Stageas don't, even in the rain:cheers:

Going down to Sandown this weekend, I reckon there is a 10 in there somewhere. Otherwise I am going to have to stop for petrol twice, only do that when there is a trailer on the back. Wish I had time to put the R34GTT intercooler on before we go.

They are not a bad design, but they have no provision for atmospheric venting (no filter). They are really designed for 100% plumb back, but they only have 2 fittings, you really need 3 fittings for full flexibility. I also found some problems with mounting and space, as the hose fittings point upwards Please post up some pictures when you have it mounted.

Yep:cheers:

No problems for the engine, in fact exactly the opposite, keeps that nasty oil mist out. Tiny filters, AutoPro, Autobarn. SupaCheap, Repco, Amercian Auto Parts, Rocket Industries etc.

I should clarify that the race car (with the +35 X 8" rims) has 40 mm spacers.

In my terminology + = positive Hence +12 = positive 12 mm offset

You can replace the S&N lambda sensor with a F&W no problems. It makes it easier to tune as you get faster response. There is no problem with sticking it up the tailpipe though, it is THE most common position. You use one of these;

Wooohoo, got the Stagea into the 11's...........that's 11 litres per hundred k's. Combined city and highway driving.

If I rmeber rightly the VVT is engaged at idle and up to around 1,500 rpm, then it is dissengaed until 4,500 rpm when it is engaged again. You need to test around 1,500 rpm not idle.

It's a fair bit of work to set up proper before and after air temps, drill holes in pipes and set up sealed inserts for the probes. Plus I am not really concerned about its cooling ability. I will however be able to determin the improvement in restriction. The boost will rise in direct proportion to the lower restriction, as I am using the IEBC. It isn't an aim type of controller, the turbo will produce the same airflow, but more of it should reach the plenum so the guage will read higher. Should be interesting:cheers:

Let's do the numbers; 8" = 203 mm Centre is 203 / 2 = 101.5mm + 35 = 136.5 mm out Subtract 136.5 from 203 = 66.6 mm in 9.5" = 241.3 mm Centre is 241.3 / 2 = 120.7mm +12 = 132.7 mm out Subtract 132.7 from 241.3 = 108.6 mm in I think that comparison you are doing is maybe -35 to -12.

Yep, as posted many times, it's a very worthwhile upgrade once you have done the usual exhaust, turbo, ECU, FMIC, injectors, fuel pump stuff. Max power around 15 rwkw increase, and average power closer to 25 rwkw. Tune it for max power, lock the wastegate closed until the exact target boost is achieved. As much ignition advance as it will take at each load point. Same for fuel, aim for 12 to 1 at each load point. Then look at the power graph, and start tuning the boost curve to suite the power delivery you want. Personally I can't drive a car FAST that doubles its power output in 500 rpm, so I smooth the power curve out by reducing the boost. I have simple rules of thumb, I want the highest average power I can get to allow for rpm drop on gearchanges. So I don't reduce the power in that rpm range (say 4,750 rpm to 7,750 rpm). That way it is still as fast as it can be when I want it to be. Once I have done that I can usually go backand slip a little more ignition advance into it, at the rpms that I have reduced the boost. This makes it more responsive. The guy who tunes my cars (I do a bit myself, but he is much better than me) hates my guts. It is a lot more time consuming than simply tuning for max power, which is what most people ask him to do. In fact most people just drive in and say "tune it", so they get his version (which is not THAT bad). For some people that may be fine, but not for me. Thar's why I say to people, spend some time with your tuner and discuss with him what you want from your car. Hope that was of some help:cheers: