Sydneykid

Check the bodily fluids and then drive it! Holly cow.......... they drove it onto the local transporter in Japan then they drove it off the tranmsporter and into the holding yard then they drove it from the holding yard on to the dock then they drove it from the dock onto the car carrier then they drove it off the boat onto the dock then they drove it from the dock to the holding yard If you get it picked up from the holding yard by a transporter; they will drive it onto the local transporter they will then drive it of the transporter and to the complier And I'll bet THEY weren't/won't be as nice to it as you will be.

Hi Matt, got the PM, sorry but there is not enough information for me to be able to make suggestions. What are you doing? Why are you doing it? What power output are you targetting? What do you use the car for? What support stuff (turbo, FMIC, fuel supply, ECU etc) do you already have in place?

Do the 044 upgrade PROPERLY and there isn't any noise. PS; do a search, this is one of THE most popular questions. This is a good thread to start off with, maybe you don't even NEED a pump upgrade. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...lts#post1281000

The concept of the split dump is to keep the exhaust from the wastegate from interferring with the exhaust flow out of the turbine. The wastegate exhaust is pulsed via the firing of each individual cylinder. The exhaust from the turbine is spiralling, caused by the spinning of the turbine. Mixing spiralling and pulsing together causes turbulance, so the concept of a split dump is to keep them appart until the turbine exhaust stops spiralling and the wastegate exhaust merges its pulses. The turbine exhaust is helped to stop spiralling by expanding the diameter of the pipe, basically you come out of the turbine at the same diameter as the turbine exducer and then step it up in diameter, once, maybe even twice, depending on the space available. This diameter change stops the spirals. By keeping the same diameter for the wastegate exhaust the individual pulses quickly merge as they loose energy (cool down). The real trick is keeping them separated for as long as possible, that's why a combined split dump and engine pipe is really necessary. The short, stubby dump replacements are OK but simply don't allow the necessary distance to avoid the turbulance. There are some noticeable gains in max power, but the real benefit is in boost build and therefore average power. Hope that was of some help:cheers:

The ARC stuff is pretty good, there is one of their oil coolers on the car below. I see no problems with 200 4wkw through their 110 mm intercooler. I have found that thicker intercoolers don't cool quite as well as thinner (with the same volume). It has to do with amount of ambient airflow. That's why I am adding the alloy ducting to make sure it gets maximum airflow from the vent. I would suggest you look at doing the same. PS, if I don't quite get enough cooling, say in summer, I might add a simple intercooler spray with the spray nozzle mounted into the top of the ducting.

This has been covered a number of times, a quick summary; An ECU to run the engine is easy An ECU to run the auto is easy Getting the engine ECU to talk to the gearbox ECU is easy The problem is getting the gearbox ECU to tell the engine ECU when a gearchange is happening. And for the engine ECU to have the complex programming to know what to do while that gearchange is happening. The usual stuff like cut/retard the ignition so the load on the auto is reduced while the gearchange is happening. This enables smooth shift quality and lessons the load on the auto which prolongs its life considerably. Only the standard auto ECU has this programming:cheers:

2.2 bar is actually 32.3 psi:cheers:

Personally I'd start with a 10 degree angle on the front lower control arms and then have the rear sill (measured just in front of the rear wheels) 8 mm higher than the front sill (measured just behind the frontwheels). For future refence, that's called "rake". Then try coming down a little, say in 5 mm steps (centre of wheel to guard) until the handling goes off. Then you know how low you can go. Changing the rake will affect the overall balance, so you can play with that once you have settled on an optimium height. After all that's what coil overs are for.

Hi Chris, have you read this article? http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles/HPI_1..._Skyline01a.htm After you have finished reading it, please post up any questions you may have.

I should state up front we have 2 X GTR's running Motecs, one M600 and one M8. And I have used Motec's of all types on race cars for many years. Why? It can't be power, I have seen an RB27 with 2 X Q45 AFM's make 1100 bhp. It can't be speed, I have seen a 170 mph TS on a GTR with AFM's It can't be time I have seen an 8 second pass.......... It can't be tuning, there is simply no better way to match fuel to airflow than by measuring the airlfow. Everything else is a compromise. And that's the problem, I can get a car to run ALMOST as "nice" on the Motec's as I can on the Power FC, but it takes me many many hours (remember I have never claimed to be a good tuner) to tune the stuff that the Power FC comes pre programmed with. Motecs have nothing, you have to start from scratch. An example, I can plug a Power FC into a suitable RB, drive it to the dyno and tune it for 425 rwkw in under 2 hours. All up cost (PFC & tuning) less than $1,600. It would take me 3 days to do the same with a Motec. I have not seen any evidence of achieving more than a handfull extra power with the Motec, but one thing is for sure I would have to get the car back a couple of times to fine tune the hot run, cold start, aircon compensation, idle quality and cold run that the Power FC has standard. All up cost (Motec M600, sensors & tuning) more than $5,000, depending on the enabled options. The question for me is "can I spend the extra $3.5K" on something that will give me more bang for my buck? PS; Chris, if you want to know more about setting up the Motec, please just ask.

I have used Datalogit on 2 X RB26DETT's, 3 X RB25DET's, 1 X RB20DET, 4 X SR20DET's and 1 X RB31DET and I have never had a problem doing everything I wanted to do. It's in English on screen (well Kiwi Inglush anyway) , it has a reasonably comprehensive English manual, the interface is quite user friendly, updates are available and it supports parrallel use with the Commander. Plus (as its name implies) it logs data, very usefull for finding problems, localisiing sensor issues and going faster. An example, I used a Datalogit session to improve a quarter mile run by coaching the driver on clutch and throttle usage for a better launch. Someone asked why have Commander? Well for me it replaces many gauges and it is rather hard to drive around reading the lap top screen (on the passengers seat) all the time. I haven't found a big enough piece of velcro to attach my laptop to the dash. To answer another question, the Datalogit gives access to some correction tables and switches that you can not get to with the Commander. I haven't found anything that the Commander gets access to that the Datalogit doesn't. Hope that is of some help:cheers:

Sorry I can't help you, none of my ECU's runs rpm versus boost mapping.

Hi guys, the biggest issue I see is with trapped air on engines that have aftermarket inlet manifolds fitted. Most don't come with air bleeds and many are too low for it to be effective anyway. I haven't seen any consistent issues with Nissan's standard solutions to this problem. Most times it is people not bleeding (all of the air out of) the cooling system properly. A header tank as the highest point in the cooling system makes this easier, but even that is not fool proff.. Using a header tank to make air bleed easier is tricky, and I am not a believer in playing with water flow patterns. I have seen NOTHING to suggest Nissan got it wrong in that area either.

You can't use it for tuning, the lamba sensor is too narrow and too slow. So what ARE you going to use it for?

My 10 cents (race meeting this weekend, have to move it) I have been using 10 psi for quite a while now, I can get 7 psi at max stall on the standard torque converter (around 2,300 rpm) holding it against the hand brake and the foot brake. I don't worry about reaction times, it has no effect on your ET. Note that I have zero mechanical mods, just the IEBC and the DFA. The exhaust and intercooler upgrades will make a big difference. How were you launching yours?

My guess is looking pretty good, 320mm and no angle on the lower control arms, sounds like it abouts 35 mm too low. It won't have enough travel and the lower arms will angle up on bumps, braking and roll and it will go towards positive camber. Time for some new springs.

Thanks for the great service, as you can see the cargo cover and barrier are installed. The cover is actually quite clever, much better than others I have used. It is far enough back in the load area so you can still recline the rear seats. And now I know what those hooks are for on the handles above the rear side windows. The cover hides my bits and pieces carrying box and the occy straps that hold it in place. At the moment it has several hundred dollars worth of brake rotors in it on their way to Eastern Creek, so it is good that it is covered.

My observations; No rear whell alignment settings, they are part of the package and can have great effect, don't ignore them/ Toe in 1.9mm is pretty insignificant but I would not have it on my car. It shows some bump steer, usually a sign of it being too low. The standard measurement is from the centre of the wheel to the guard verticaly. That way wheel diameter makes no difference, neither does size of exhaust. Caster and camber are both OK as is SAI. Summary, it's not a wheel alignment problem, the spring rates are OK. That leaves height. Measure it up and post the heights on here (all 4 please), we should be able to compare it with others.

Nope, the Controller shows load points and correction factors. You will need a boost gauge, every turbo car should have one:cheers:

Nissan genuine cam belt part # 13028-5L-327 Anyone know the generic (DB XXX) front brake pad part #?

The primary load source, as always, is the AFM. The voltage goes straight to 5.1volts (max) and the ecu reacts very quickly. There are two issus here, the max voltage is the first, this tells the ECU something is wrong, the AFM voltage is simply too high. But the Stagea ECU (remember it's a hybrid R33/R34 ECU) also seems to do little comparison between the rate of climb in AFM readings, the engine RPM and its rate of climb and maybe even throttle position and gear. This also tells the ECU there may be something wrong and we get rich and retard engine protection. I found this second set of programming, when tuning the DFA, maybe have a read of that post as it goes into a little more detail on how to get around that problem.

Have a read of the Jaycar IEBC and DFA thread in the Stagea section, the DFA is pretty similar to the SAFC.