Sydneykid

Hi Ben, try this one.... It has been 2 months since I fitted and tuned the Jaycar IEBC and DFA at a cost of $150 in parts and $160 in dyno time. The around town fuel economy has improved from 16.5 L/100k to 13.3 L/100k, the cruise fuel economy has improved from 14.7 L/100K to 12.3 L/100K therebye saving me ~20% off my fuel bill. Average Optimax cost has been $1.12 per litre and I have used 585 litres in that period. That means I have saved ~$130 in 2 months, and in 4.5 months I will have paid for the DFA and the IEBC and the dyno tune. And that's with a STANDARD exhaust, wait until I put the 3.25" one on that is coming off the R32GTST next week. Hope that helps remove the thumb screws:cheers:

Hi Luke, cam bracket bolts (in Nissan speak) are torqued to 0.92 to 1.2 kg-mm. The Nissan R32 manual says start at #1 (front bearing) pair, then #7 (rear bearing) pair, then #2, then #5, then #3, then #4. That's 14 bolts and its the same for RB20/25/26.

Wow, I have been quoted again. :headspin: A recent update......the GTST and GTR pump flows in my table quoted above are at 12 volts. By using a relay and dedicated wiring I have achieved 13.5 volts at the pump. This increases the flow, please refer to the following tests......... The 300ZX pump is pretty much the same as an R32GTR pump. Hope that helps:cheers:

Hi Joel, I wouldn't be surprised if the aftermarket (high flowing) oil pumps aren't made by the same people. The internals sure look similar. For what they are, they are rediculously expensive. Last engine I built I used a dry sump set up, the cost was similar.

Suggestion follow; 1. The turbo can't keep up with the engine's airflow requirement at higher rpm. Remember boost is simply a measure of resistance, by increasing the rpm you are effectively lowering the resistance. If the tubo can't keep up, then the boost has to decrease. The Jaycar design of IEBC is unique in that enables you to close the wastegate and get as much airflow out of the turbo as it will produce. All other boost controllers leave the wastegate partially open because some boost gets to the wastegate actuator. At high rpm (exhaust flow) it only takes a tiny wastegate opening to lower the airflow and let the boost drop. 2. At 10 psi and 5,500 rpm it is ~3 psi if I remember rightly. At 12 psi and 6,000 rpm it is ~5 psi, so the rate of climb is steep. 3. Is that R34 intercooler? Yep they are a bit better, flow slightly more with less restriction. It isn't dramatic though. Going back to the "lag" question. If the wastegate is closed and you put the throttle down, the engine is going to respond faster than if the wastegate is slightly open and you put the throttle down. So you could argue that the "lag" will be reduced under those circumstances. Hope that was of some help

Sounds OK, just don't be tempted into running a "just bit more boost" or "if I lean it out a little bit I can get to 300 rwkw". Resist the temptation. You will find the cams make a heap of difference. I will be interested to see how much the boost drops with the increased efficiency.

The N1 pump has NO MORE FLOW, the relief valve simply blows off at a higher pressure. So the oil cooler is irrelevant. If you want more flow to service the oil cooler, then buy a pump that flows more. There are 3 versions of "RB26 N1 oil pump" that I know off. The R32 one will fit the RB25, the early R33 one will also. The late R33 and R34 won't fit. There is no such thing as an "RB25 N1 oil pump". You can use an R33 and R34 RB26 oil pump (N1, standard or aftermarket) on an RB25, but the RB25 crank is skinnier at the oil pump flange. So you need a spacer ring (collar) that fits between the crank and the oil pump. I have only used a Jun one and they are not cheap. My suggestion, use your standard RB25 oil pump (if it is in good condition) and buy a 5 psi higher pressure relief spring from your local spring supplier. For ~$2 you have an N1 oil pump.

Yes:cheers:

Sounds perfect to me:cheers:

You live in Perth, that's where the best BP refinery is in Australia, using one of the best oil feed supplies in the world, NW shelf crude. Having been to Perth many times I have yet to see Shell Optimax on sale, have I simply missed it?

Hi Geoff, good stuff, your brain is alive and well. But water and air do behave quite differently under pressure, ie; you can compress air, but you can't compress water. Lets try this real world example; A. Measure the boost at the turbo. Measure the boost in one of the primary inlet runners (after the plenum has done its thing). The difference is the restriction effect of everything in between. B. Then do the same only change the plenum. The difference is the restriction effect of everything in between. Subtract A from B and you have the effect (+ or -) of changing the plenum, since everything else was the same. Sound like a reasonable test of efficiency of the plenum? OK I have done that with a Greddy plenum on an RB25, guess what? No difference, not 0.01 of a psi. There were however some issues with distribution under 5,000 rpm that showed up on the primary exhaust pipe temperature and A/F ratio readings. This resulted in sub optimal tuning and cost a handful of horsepower. This is another test that could be carried out in addition to the ones I suggested above.

That's getting up there in both power and boost. What's the A/F ratios look like?

This is not an unusual question faced by R32GTST owners, thinking about RB30/25 in their car. So it is releveant to this thread. Have you worked out how much you could sell the RB20DET for, complete with turbo, clutch, gearbox etc? Basically everything that you don't need. Keep the PFC, intercooler, exhaust, AVCR etc. Basically everything that complements the RB31. Secondly, 350 rwkw's is a bit low for a $7K RB31, more like 400 rwkw. And at Philip Island you can use it, you were there and saw the blue car utilise that amount of power to win a National Championship. It is horses for courses:cheers:

Sorry, it's been a few days since I got back to this thread. What's this 3 days crap? It's irrelevant anyway. They reckon the oil level was fine when they checked it, good that's exactly what you wanted to hear. Because that means it either had an oil leal, which they should have picked up. Or it used the oil in 300 k's, which again they should have picked up. Even better, the inspector admitted that he knew it was stored for 10 months, he should have recommended an oil change if there was any doubt that the oil was good. Or if he thought the rings where stuck from no use, he should have warned you. There is no escape for VIP here, you have them by the nuts, start squeezing. Get your mechanic to write a detailed letter on the engine's problems, attach that and the quote for the repairs to a letter of demand and send it to VIP. The longer you wait the less chance you have of getting some money. Time is not your friend. Let me know how you get on, I always answer PM's:cheers:

Prices vary, so I have no idea, best to give GCG a call.

Sorry, we're right hand drive downunder same as Japan. My turbo is nowhere near the engine mount though. We can buy T3 to T4 adaptors off the shelf, no need to make one.

Yep Both Yep, but it does very much depend on the condition of the engine. The GCG ball bearing hi flow produces enough airflow for 265 rwkw out of an RB25, done it quite a few times. There is no reason why an RB20 would be any different, as long as it has the right mods and the engine is in good enough condition. Hope that answered your questions.

Oh shoot, I wouldn't do it on the dyno:cheers: That's the first chain I have ever heard of breaking, they are almost indestructable.

Brand of tyre?

Sorry Ben, I am not sure that I understand the question. The drivers adjust the torque split all the time while racing as track conditions change, the fuel load lightens, the tyres wear etc.

I have a Turbonetics T66 mounted on an RB26 cast manifold and it clears easily. Having compared the RB20/25 manifold with the RB26 manifold the only difference is the bolt pattern to the cylinder head.

Great post Adrian, it filled in a few gapsin my knowledge bank. I have a few suggestions to add; Luke has advised that they grind the heal to eliminate the solid ramps. so lift is actually gained not lost. I don't see the benefit in knowing that my cams are actually at 2.34 degrees. not the 2.00 degrees as shown by the slots on the adj pulley. As with most people, I tuned it for the power curve I wanted on the dyno. Whether I got that power curve at 2.34 degrees or 2.00 degrees, I really don't care. Personally I don't see why I should spend a lot of time getting the cam timing exactly spot on, when I am going to change it on the dyno anyway. I am really looking forward to seeing how Geoff gets on with the RB26 cams trimmed.

Great post Adrian it filled in few gaps in my knowledge. I have a couple of suggestions;