Sydneykid

Firstly it depends on the spec of the R34GTR, the N1 Nur spec being the most obvious. The real issue is what "spec" would it be allowed to run and how much "handicapping" would be applied. GTR's have too good a reputation for decimating race fields, so the handcuffs would be out before it even turned a wheel. The RX7's suffer badly from heat and need "assistance" on hot days and long races. They were able to cruise for long periods in the 12hrs, so ignore that. It is also relevant how "sharp" they are allowed to run, some of them are very phat. Then it comes down to the circuit, at Philip Island, Sandown and Bathurst the R34GTR would have an advantage. Whilst at Wakefield, Mallala, Warwick and Oran it wouldn't. Calder, Qld Raceway, Eastern Creek and Barbag are in the middle. Obviously if it rains...... Adding Evo's into the mix is going to be a futher problem, they don't have the weaknesses of the RX7's or Rex's and they have a distinct weight advantage on the GTR's. They are always going to be hard to beat given sufficient budget, then it comes down to driver and team skill at extracting the best on the day. But I would sure as hell like to give it a try, did someone mention budget....

On the Datalogit (for all 7 of the RB25DET PFC software versions) the air temp correction table is on the same page as the water temp correction table. I get readings and the correction table functions on the RB20DET Power FC.

Ooooops sorry, I should have mentioned that the Stagea has R34 ECU pin outs. And #36 is certainly blank. With the Datalogit I can see the correction table for air temperature on the Power FC RB25DET settings. This is the same as on the RB20DET settings and it certainly works, I have the GTR top end on the RB31 and it uses the standard R32GTR air temp sensor. I just ran a wire to the blank spot on the ecu connector. I couldn't see the correction table on the Commander though, but the Datalogit has no such problem. Can you see the air temp correction table on the R33 GTST Commander?

Some of things that are smaller (not up to it) on the non turbo that you would need to change when going to an RB30DET (cheaper than RB25DET); front rotors front callipers front uprights front springs front shocks front stabiliser bar radiator intercooler intercooler pipes brake master cylinder clutch master cylinder clutch slave cylinder map sensor boost gauge ecu wiring harness gearbox tailshaft diff (not lsd) drive shafts rear wheel bearings rear uprights rear sub frame rear stabiliser bar etc It will cost you far more to add these later than it will to buy an R32 GTST M Spec first up.

I ALWAYS use the high mounted belt tensioner. In my opinion the low mounting position brings the belt too close together, the teeth are facing each other with sometimes less than 8 mm of separation. A little slack and you would have teeth to teeth contact at 6,000 rpm, and that does not make me feel very comfortable.

Nope that just went straight in:cheers:

I have answered this question so many times in this thread. Test it yourself, block off the VVT oil feed (on the bottom of the cylinder head) with a finger. Then supply compressed air to the oil feed hole at the #1 camshaft bearing. You will find that the air circulates around the oil supply holes to the other camshaft bearings, ie; they are all joined up. You only need the EXTRA oil feed for the VVT becuase it needs a good supply of oil pressure. The #1 bearing oil supply is the bleed off, otherwise the oil pressure would be trapped there and the VVT wouldn't turn off when the solenoid is closed. PS, a correctly sized tutbo should NOT go over 70 degrees C air inlet temp, but a correctly sized whipple will ALWAYS have to go over 100 degrees C to make its target power. As for no lag, it depends on your interpretion of LAG. The problem with a whipple (and all superchargers for that matter) is that they require increased rpm to supply increased air flow. So they have to be accelerated by the engine before the engine can accelerate the car. This means slowed response to throttle changes, both accelerate and decelerate. Propelry sized wastegates and BOV's have meant that turbochargers don't lag (sorry) behind as much as they used to.

Hi Luke, I have used R32GTR coils on an R32GTST with an R32GTST ignitor. So I can't see why an R33GTST S1 ignitor wouldn't drive R33GTR coils.

Perhaps we should move the supercharger posts to a new thread, this thread is really about RB30DET's. PS, You don't get something for nothing, whipples need a lot of power to drive them (30 kw is not unusual) and they heat the inlet air charge up a lot (100 degrees C is also not unusual). This is a lot more power loss and heat generation than other designs. As I said, you don't get something for nothing, you have to pay the toll somewhere.

No:cheers:

The smaller T04 sized Master Power turbos sell for ~$US650, there are a few places in the US retailing them for that. No import duty (US free trade agreement), freight and 10% GST so they are making a reasonable margin at $A1,300. If the Garrett is configured to fit straight up then it is comparable, but I suspect it will need extra parts and some fabrication. We get 265 rwkw out of the R34GTT with a GCG ball bearing hi flow, which is pretty close to the rated 450 bhp, so it's a genuine number. Plus it makes more power EVERYWHERE than standard. There are quite a few other RB25's with similar results, so it's not a fluke engine. I am not a fan of taking standard internal RB25's over 450 bhp, some people do it and get away with it, but plenty more have had failures. For an all round performance (drag, circuit and road), almost standard response, ease of fitting and right up to the std internals limit, I have yet to find a better solution.

I only used the 450 bhp hi flow from GCG, I always believed that the 500 runs too close to the surge line. I had heard that they don't do the 500 anymore for that reason. We get 265 rwkw out of the R34GTT with one, which is pretty close to the rated 450 bhp, so it's a genuine number. Plus it makes more power EVERYWHERE than standard. There are quite a few other RB25's with similar results, so it's not a fluke engine. As for other options, there are litterly hundreds. But you set a budget and the fabrication and extra work required to fit them would blow that budget. Plus I am not a fan of taking standard internal RB25's over 450 bhp, some people do it and get away with it, but plenty more have had failures. For an all round performance (drag, circuit and road), almost standard response, ease of fitting and right up to the std internals limit, I have yet to find a better solution.

Hi Ben, briefly.............. The S1 (1995 to 1997) is the same mechanicals as R33 S2, that means; 173 kw RB25DET, same as R33GTST Auto ATTESSA same as R33GTR Auto only (except 260RS Autech = GTR waggon) The S2 (1998 to 2001) is same mechanicals as R34. that means; 206 kw RB25DET Neo, same as R34GTT ATTESSA same as R34GTR Tiptronic Auto + 5 speed manual The S3 (2001 - onwards) is the same as R35 Skyline, that means V6 etc These will tell you most of the detail that you want to know; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ar...rticle.php?a=19 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ar...rticle.php?a=18 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ar...rticle.php?a=17 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ar...rticle.php?a=16 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ar...rticle.php?a=13 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/ar...rticle.php?a=10

Cat back, the exhausts are mostly the same for the same models of GTST and GTR.

Master Power, have been around for 25 years or so, making plain bearing, old Garrett technology turbos in Brazil. The turbos themselves seem to be made well enough, but they are far from state of the art, technology wise. I just gotta ask, are you really considering taking a ball bearing, water cooled turbo off and replacing it with an older generation, plain bearing, non water cooled turbo? If you do make that decision, you will have to; Block off the water feed and return lines Buy a compressor inlet adaptor (the diameters are different) Have an adaptor fabricated to fit the compressor outlet to the standard intercooler inlet pipework Have an adaptor made for the wastegate actuator Add up the cost of parts, plus it will take at least three times as long to fit. Compare that all up cost with the cost of buying a ball bearing hi flow, which is a far superior solution technology wise and will save money in servicing over its life. Hope that is of some help:cheers:

Let me make sure I have got this right, are you really considering taking a ball bearing, water cooled turbo off and replacing it with an older generation, plain bearing, non water cooled turbo? If you do make that decision, you will have to; Block off the water feed and return lines Buy a compressor inlet adaptor (the diameters are different) Have an adaptor fabricated to fit the compressor outlet to the standard intercooler inlet pipework Have an adaptor made for the wastegate actuator Add up the cost of parts, plus it will take at least three times as long to fit. Add that to the $200 you don't need to spend on the adj fuel pressure regulator, the Power FC and the injectors will do the job perfectly. You should than have almost enough to buy a ball bearing hi flow, which is a far superior solution technology wise and will save money in servicing over its life. Hope that is of some help:cheers:

Sorry, I don't know the sedan spring rates, but the Stagea rear springs are a much higher rate than the coupe and not progressive either.

That looks like a Series 3, late 2001 (the S2's stopped in September). From memory it has a 2.5 litre all alloy V6 (same generation as the 350Z, R35 Skyline and Maxima).

I see a need to clarify the ECU and auto question; There is 2 way communication between the std engine ECU (EECU) and the std automatic transmission ECU (AECU). The EECU tells the AECU stuff like engine rpm, road speed, engine temp, throttle position, load etc. Pretty much any ECU can do this, Power FC, Wolf, Motec etc etc The real trick is the AECU tells the EECU when it's about to change gear. The EECU has a gearchange map that tells it how much ignition to cut while the gearchange is happening. This ensure smoooooth changes and also prolongs the life of the auto as it removes load while the change is happening. The program for the gearchange map has HEAPS of code, I have been told that it has more programming that the fuel and igntion maps combined. This is to make sure that there are load free smooth changes at all load points, engine rpm and road speeds. Apexi have not programmed this gear change logic into the Nissan Power FC's, my guess is because it would be very expensive and no one would pay the price. Obviously Motec, Autronic, Wolf, Microtec, Link etc etc have no such programming either. Take it from me I have looked for an ECU for the Stagea for many months. I have also driven a number of R33GTST autos that claim to be OK with aftermarket EECU's (Wolf, Power FC & Motec) and NONE of them have anywhere near the shift quality (in all conditions) that the standard EECU provides. All of the EECU's run the engine just fine, but I don't like my gearchanges jerky and I worry about how long the gearbox will last with big power and no shift logic protecting it. As readers of my posts know I have kept the standard EECU and used a Jaycar DFA to correct the fuel maps, that will get me to my power target of 200 4wkw. Sure it's a compromise, but I don't want to take the other course of action, which is changing to a non electronic auto. I have used Hugo's a few times for high power drag application and they work fine and don't cost the earth either. Just not in my road car. Hope that is of some help.

Not cheap, is the best answer I can give. I bought mine used, with some other Jun stuff and even then they weren't particularly cheap. I can only suggest you check around as the prices vary HEAPS.

Good result. Peter. Do you have the boost and A/F ratio curves as well?

Have you done the cams? Adj Pulleys? Split dump? Airfilter? Heat Shield? Ambient air feed? Because all of those (if you haven't already done them) will give you a power increase, and the plenum won't.

An observation, it has the usual RB25DET power dip (flattening) around 4,500 rpm to 5,000 rpm. This is sometimes tricky to tune out, but it is worthwhile as it is a common use rpm range and it is important in average power calcs. Some tuners spend all of their time searching for 1 or 2 extra kw of max power (at 6,000+ rpm) and don't worry so much about this important rpm range. Standard ECU's have a problem in this area but the Microtech should be easily able to be tuned around it. So I would strongly suggest you pay your tuner a visit and discus the "power dip" with him, and seek out ways that you can tune it out. You will be surprised at how much differecne it makes.

My best suggestion is to have a look on your own car, it only takes a couple of minutes to remove the kick panel. On the Stagea, it has no wire in #36 on the connector.

Personally I always set the base timing at 20 degrees using the CAS, then adjust the ignition maps accordingly. If you want to test a straight line change (at all load points) then you can do it with the master ignition timing. Noting that it will revert back when you turn the ignition off.