Sydneykid

Oh Roy, that's a bit conservative/modest, the R34GTT with 185 rwkw average power did an 11.9 at 120 mph. And it's a damn site heavier than the R32GTST. You would need to soften up the rear though, track spec is way too hard for decent 60' traction.

Suggestions to your questions follow; 1. Yep 2. Yes, you will need the complete RB26 valve train 3. Buy a cam kit, it's cheaper 4. No I am using the Jun 68 (272/10.8m) inlet and 70 (280/10.8mm) exhaust, I chose them because of the higher lift. Jun specify 2 valve springs specs, one for up to 11mm lift (1009M-N001) and one for over 11 mm lift (1009M-N004). Jun also recommend using offset ratainers (0.5mm) for 10.8 mm lift, but I have not found it necessary as I have replaced the valve seats such that no offset is required. The "grind the head" is nothing more than 10 seconds with the die grinder for each lobe. Hope that is of some help:cheers:

Heasmans (Sydenham) East Coast (Kirrawee) or Whiteline (Minto). Don't stress over it, it will be a simple bent steering arm, happens all the time.

I have driven a GTR over 200k's with the space saver spare on the front, the ATTESSA didn't even know. The torque split looked quite normal to me, I even palyed with the torque splt controller, just for fun.

Something to think about; We have 4 cars, that use around 65 litres of Optimax each per week. Last year they always seemd to run out of petrol on Thursdays. I don't know why, but petrol in Sydney is always more expensive on Thursdays. Maybe because Thursday is pay day for many people. Someone suggested to me that it's because people go shopping on Thursday nights and use their shoppers' discount to buy petrol. Eventually (being a scrooge) I got a a bit peeeed of with paying up to 12 cents litre more, just because of timing. So one Tuesday (the cheapest day) I filled up one of the drums we use for the race cars and stuck it in the garage. I told the drivers to only fill up on Tuesdays and to fill up out of the drum if they ran out on other days. Plus we always use shopper dockets to get the 4 cents per litre off at the local Shell. The result, so far this year we have saved over $1K on petrol, compared to if we had bought it on Thursdays and not used the shopper dockets. So every year I can buy a new turbo for one car, and that will make it go faster than using any other brand of petrol. PS; we have been know to fill up 3 cars and the drum on one shopper docket, just don't reset the bowser between cars.

Sorry but this survey is a waste of oxygen. As has been posted a number of times, in this thread and many others, oil companies have refinery sharing agreements. If they didn't then, for example, you wouldn't have BP service stations in Sydney. It is simply too expensive to truck fuel around the country and still compete with local refineries supplying their service stations. To be of any use at all, you would need to have a a number of individual surveys that are state based. Even that is questionable as day to day supplies can vary in source.

Hi Roy, it's a good effort, but it's just more evidence.... Don Pulver at last years Procar round at Eastern Creek did a 1.46 in the 200SX. That's STANDARD except for ECU, roll cage, springs, shocks and tyres. No lightweighting, no power up parts, standard brakes etc etc Imagine how fast it would go with 100 kgs less weight and 100 rwkw more power. I think the issue, as John raised it, is GTR's versus the UAS 300ZX. Ric did a 1.42 at that same meeting in his RX7S8 (same regs), so how fast would a STANDARD R34GTR go if appropriately circuit prepared and driven?.

Australia Best Tyre Service have a Guard Roller as well, but as Duncan said, "stand there and watch".

If that's the case then either you have too much toe out (just a "tad" remember) or there is something else wrong. I have never seen up to 3mm toe out (that's each side) cause any issues on the highway. How much is "too different"? I swap 255/40/17 and 225/50/16 around all the time.

No! No! No! The ATTESSA doesn't care about the WIDTH. The DIAMETER should be the same, but that is NOT the same as width. So you can have 225/45/17's on the front and 255/40/17's on the rear. The rolling circumference will be the same. PS; if you had done a search you would have found plenty of posts on why this is the case.

In Production Cars this year, mmmmm let's see, that would be 1 X GTR, 2 X Celicas and 2 X Integras. It demands we work harder and smarter, for small increments. That's the problem, guys that really know how to get speed out of a circuit race car are going to build them to reg's. People who know how to drive on a circuit (not a professional) is hardly likely to want a car not built to regs, otherwise they can't compete. I suspect that's closer to the mark.

Do a search, this comes up a couple of times a year.

Castrol Technical:cheers:

Way to go Roy, max power tells you nothing about an engine, average power is where you realy find out how well it is going to perform. So how was it on the track? Philip Island wasn't it? That should be around 190kph onto the straight and 250 kph top. Did you have to back off for the kink?

I think the K24 is the KKK turbo that they used on the 944 Turbo. The 911 Turbos had K27's. A little clarification on who makes what for whom; Garrett make the turbos for HKS IHI makes the turbos for Apexi Mitsubishi makes the turbos for Trust and KKK make the turbos for Blitz

How much individual cylinder correction do you have in the tuning?

I've let this slip along for a while, but what the heck, time to post up a comment....... Our cars tend to be built for a particular class of racing as determined by the CAMS. This means restrictions on the modifications, ones that the Zed is not limited to. For example we run a control tyre in Improved Production (Yoko A032R) and we are not allowed to use non standard panels (eg; no carbon fibre bonnets). We could easily build a GTR that would wipe the floor with the Zed, but then we couldn't race it in any class. Actually we could, it would be a Sports Sedan, but it wouldn't be competitive with the tube frame chassis that are allowed in that chassis. So for us it would be a huge waste of time, effort and money. Don't get me wrong, John and the boys do a good job with the Zed, full credit is due there. But you can't really compare a car not built to regulations ie; unrestricted mods, to cars built to class regulations. So until someone comes along with the same usage requirements as John, then it's not truly a contest.

I would change the "just a tad of toe in" to "just a tad of toe out". After you have had the wheel alignment done then tell us what it handles like. Personally I would swap the tyres around and see exactly how much effect they are having.

I have used the Sub Zero design that bolts up to the standard runners, it worked OK.

Hi Ice, there is a good value group buy going on with MV Automatics in SA. So check out the group buy section.

This topic gets raised at least once a week, a search would give you all of the answers. To save time.... The air travels though the pipe work so fast it doen't have time to get hot. Just because the pipe is hot, DOES NOT mean the air inside the pipe is hot. There is insufficient contact area inside the pipe, do the numbers....... 5,000 rpm X 2.5 litres divided by 2 (it's a four stroke) X 2 (1 bar of boost) = 12,500 litres per minute. Rule #1, feed sufficient ambient air into the air filter, keep the hot air out. Rule #2, wrap (or ceramic coat) the exhaust, EVERYWHERE all the way back to the cat Optioanl rule #3, a turbo blanket can be a good idea on larger turbos PS; if you have a thin walled exhaust manifold, ceramic coat it on the inside and the outside

www.horsepowerinabox.com

Ask the person/workshop who did the hi flow:cheers:

A fuel cut defender simply limits the top voltage that the ecu sees from the AFM, this stops the ECU from going rich and retard to protect the engine. I would recommend you look at something like an SAFC that will modify the voltage over a range that will allow you to, not only prevent the standard ECU R&R strategy, but actually tune the A/F ratios. If you can read and interpret instructions and solder a bit, then have a look at a Jaycar Digital Fuel Adjuster for about 1/5th the price of an SAFC.

I used Prestige:cheers: