Sydneykid

Poor tuning kills engines:cheers:

Hi guys, a roller dyno doesn't measure "nm" (newton metres) or "ft/lbs" (foot pounds) it measures "n" (newtons) or "lbs" (pounds), they are not the same. Newton metres and foot pounds can only be measured on an engine dyno.

There are a number of threads on this subject, I suggest you do a search. So you want to be able to change injectors easily (how often do you do that?) and you don't mind looosing power EVERYWHERE and having poor idle control. If you had done a search you would have read about why this occurs. I have posted up pictures of the RB26 plenum and the necessary fabrication required to fit an RB20, a search will show you that. The search button is your friend. PS; did I mention do a search?

The -11 = 1.1 mm and from my experience that's too big, particularly at more than standard boost. I used 0.8mm on the NGK BCPR6ES, actually they came as -8, but I still checked the gaps. I use BCPR7ES in the race car, but they are too cold for lots of traffic driving. Hence the 6's are the go. My suggestion would be to gap them down to 0.8mm, the heat range shouldn't cause the missfiring.

Well its cam belt changing time for the Stagea, so I figured while doing that I might as well change the exhaust camshaft pulley to an adjustable one. I have a couple of used ones of various brands lying around, but I wanted to try an Apexi one, as we haven't used theirs before. So log onto my friendly Nengun website and check the prices, they sure have come down in price, $135 plus $18 for freight. Order confirmed, usually takes about a week. Cambelts, the standard one does the job, this is not a big valve spring engine. Off to the local Nissan dealer, one in stock, $90 thank you very much. I will post up a step by step, with useful tips and a list of necessary tools, just need to wait a for the pulley to arrive.

Stock RB30E bottom end freshend up (standard Commondoor parts) with RB25DE top end, built 5 years ago, made 475 bhp on the engine dyno at 1.1 bar, still going strong. The secret is tuning and regularly servicing. Most of all, don't try for just a little more boost, or a few more rpm, or 20 more hp, did I mention tuning?

I only have experience in 2 X R34GTT's, both ran out of injector flow at 205 to 210 rwkw, that's 350/360 bhp. Which calculates out to 370 cc's which is the same as the R33GTST. We have had untolled R33GTST's on the dyno and they don't get any more rwkw before they also run out of injector duration. Each car is different of course:cheers:

I like that "one of your rb25's" , at the moment I only have 1 X RB25 and that's in the Stagea. It's an auto, so no Power FC in it (unfortunately). Let me reinterate what I know from previous practical experience; I have used a GTR inlet air temp sensor on an R32GTST Power FC. I used the GTR air temp sensor because I figured it woudl be the right range and resistance ramp to give accurate temperatures. I had to run one extra wire as there was no provision in the wiring harness for an air temp sensor. I connected it to #36 on the R32GTST ECU plug. I can program the air temp correction table with the Datalogit, and I can log the temperatures. On the Commander, in Monitor mode, when I select Air Temp I can see the readings. On an R33GST Power FC (all 7 software versions), I can program the air temp correction table with the Datalogit. The initialised settings on the Power FC have no air temp correstion ie; they are all set at 100. This is the same as R34GTT, R32GTR, R33GTR and R32GTST. So, I see no reason to believe that the R33GTST Commander would read any different (it is the same Commander as most Nissans). It will only take a few minutes to connect one wire and test it. You don't have to buy an air temp sensor, parrallel it up to the water temp sensor. The range is similar, it may not read accurately but at least you will know that it works. If you do get it working, then I would suggest using the air temp correction table, it is a good feature. Hope that is of some help.

They will fit, but a bit small (as in narrow) for a GTR in my opinion:cheers:

Brand of tyre?

R34's are certainly different to R32's, have not had R33's to compare:cheers:

You need to be careful when selecting Walbro pumps. As you can see from the attached, the GSS341 is rated at 255 lph, that's at zero boost and at 13.5 volts. If you install one in tank with the standard Skyline wiring it will run at 12 volts, that's 215 lph. Then add some boost, say 20 psi (1.35 bar) and they are down to 180 lph.

Yep, I know it's a good idea, but how many people would actually rent one for a week for $100? That's the question, if I get enough I will do it. We can then start a thread on people's experiences with tuning on road and the results they get. Should make a good reference for others. I need a few more to make it worthwhile, so let me know:cheers:

1. R32GTR's have not so good dumps, so an upgrade is beneficial. 2. O2 sensors are irrelevant most of the time, they only run closed loop for idle and cruise. All R32GTR's I have seen benefit greatly from a tune, chip upgrade or ECU replacement (Power FC is the go) 3. Try new spark plugs with gaps at 0.8 mm. Hope that is of some help:cheers:

Yes:cheers:

Too much speculation for me to comment. If you have them, please post up the dyno graphs with the A/F ratios and the boost levels. If they didn't give them to you, I would go back and ask for them. If they don't have them stored on the hard disk (unlikely), then ask for a quick power run (no tuning) then print them out. There is ~300 rwkw (400 rwhp) in that combo, we just need to find out what is holding it back.

It was a big day today, I received 20 PM's. I have cleared a few, so you should be able to send one now.

Is that right? Nissan used lower flowing injectors in an engine that makes more power? :headspin:

Not to mention the cane toads to practise your golf swing on:cheers:

Ooooops, so is my response "it's 4wd like a GTR" OK?

By using the standard restrictor as a bleed off, I didn't have very rapid boost build. In fact it was quite gentle, as the restrictor bleeds off the same amount of airflow all the time. Plus it is routed back into the inlet to the turbo which means it has progressive (but minor) vacuum applied to it. Consequently I had zero boost spiking. This method works quite well at 7-8 psi and removes the low boost (4 psi) which is the main reason I did it. I would not be confident for boost levels over 12 psi as a whole new set of aerodynamics are involved. I don't see why a needle valve wouldn't work the same, but I am not in any way an expert in aerodynamics. The effect of temperature on needle valves should not be underestimated. Again it would depend on the boost target, Hope that is of some help:cheers:

A picture showing the comparison between the no name short shifter and the standard shifter; I can confirm that the no name shifter is 16mm longer from the pivot point to the point of engagement with the linkage than the standard shifter. It is 58 mm and the standard shifter is 42mm. The gearlevers are the same length from the pivot point to the knob, being 210 mm. So this means a 20% reduction in gearknob movement for the same amount of shift linkage movement. That was what was advertised and it does in fact achieve a 20% reduction in shift movement. There is another benefit I overlooked previously. The 16mm spacer under the pivot point moves the shift up wards, and since it si the same length above the pivot, thsi means the gear knob is 16 higher in the car. Hence 16mm closer to the steering wheel, which means less time spent moving the hand from the wheel to the knob when changing gear. This is of course exactly the opposite to what would occure if you simply cut the shifter and moved the gear knob lower down on the shaft. Dissadvantages/advantages that I can see when comparing the standard to short shifter; 1. There is no rubber isolation of the top half of the shifter from the bottom half (that's what the bulb is half way up to the knob). This means there will be more vibration passed to the gear knob. On the other hand it means better feel as there is no rubber dampening between the gearbox and your hand. 2. The lack of rubber insolation measn that the heat from the gearbox will pass up the metal lever all the way to the knob. This no name shifter came with a chrome plated gear knob, which will get hotter than the standard gear knob. If this becomes an issue I may try a plastic washer and some teflon tap on the thread to isolate the gear knob from the shift. That may stop some of the heat transfer. Hope that was of some use. PS; thanks to gR33ddy for supplying the standard shifter used in this comparison.

No idea, I can only suggest you try it. Yep You will have to work out which is the normally closed port, simply blow into each port and find the one that doesn't flow. Then apply 12 volts and make sure that port opens and block off the one that doesn't have any airflow. Auto-One, AutoPro, Repco, AutoBarn basically anyone, but SupaCheap (they only have plastic ones). Hope that is of some help:cheers: