Sydneykid

Your kidding right? How the hell would an insurance assessor be able to tell who machined the grooves? He wouldn't even be able to see them unless pulled the shocks out. And they sure as hell don't do that, they aren't allowed to "work" on the car. You could mount the same argument with the nuts that hold the shocks in, were they done up by Bilstein? Then there is the wheel nut argument? Circlips, bolts, nuts, screws they are all fasteners, so the same rules apply.

You need the Controller to program the IEBC, but once you have done that you don't need it anymore. You could borrow one or maybe join with another and make one between the 2 of you, even 3 or 4 would work. They are only ~$70 to buy so not a big outlay.

I was aware of that, but it does't matter. Thrashed or not, the engine shouldn't use a sump full of oil in 300k's. It either was using oil before hand or the sump wasn't full. Either way VIP are at fault. PS; we run the race GTR's flat out over a race weekend for 2 X 20 minute practice session, 1 X 20 minute qualifying session and 4 X 30 minute races and they use ZERO oil. I could race them for a whole year and not use a sump full.

Simple stuff......... *You need ~10 lbs of air per minute to make ~100 bhp. *So if you want 485 bhp (450 + 35) you need ~49 lbs of air per minute *At sea level etc , 45 lbs of air per minute is around 17 cubic metres per minute *Go up from the 17m3/m pont on the bottom axis and it's most efficient area (65%) is 1.75 pressure ratio (~0.75 bar boost). *The air is going to be 100 degrees C (the red line) and that's hot, so you will need some cooling of the charge ie; water injection, intercooler etc *It is going to be running at 86% efficiency (the purple line) *Note that the supercharger itself is going to need 34 bhp (25 kw) from the engine to run it (the green line). That's why I used 485 bhp above. *So you will need around 8,000 rpm, plus 14%, say 10,000 rpm *At double cranksahft speed that means max power at ~5,000 rpm, not bad for an engine with a redline at 6,500 rpm. Hope that was of some help:cheers:

Let me make sure I have this right..... VIP checked the car over and they should have checked that it had a full sump of oil. Then some guy, that you don't know, drove it 300 k's and it ran out of oil. Have I got that right? If that's the case then VIP owe you, they should have picked up that the engine was using oil. Or that is wasn't full when they checked it. Plus if it did really use a sump full of oil in 300 k's the motor was in need of a rebuild anyway. I don't care how you drive a car, if it was in good condition (as per the VIP report) then it shouldn't use that much oil in that short a journey. This is a no loose situation for you.... Option 1. Send a letter of demand to VIP telling them that the car wasn't inspected properly and was low on oil when they checked it. They should have notified you and you would not have gone though with the transaction. Include a copy of the quote for a full engine rebuild from your repairer. Option 2. Send a letter of demand to VIP telling them that the car wasn't inspected properly as the engine was using excessive oil when they checked it. They should have notified you and you would not have gone though with the transaction. Include a copy of the quote for a full engine rebuild from your repairer. Under Option 1, if they come back to you with "no the engine was fiull of oil when we checked it". Then you go back to them with then the engine must have been using excessive oil when they checked it. They should have notified you and you would not have gone though with the transaction. Include a copy of the quote for a full engine rebuild from your repairer. For evidence, you need a statement form the guy who drove it that he drove it "normally" for the 300 ks'. That shouldn't be too hard. Then you need the same statement from the car carrier that the engine was not started or the car drivem while it was on the boat. Bingo it's VIP's fault, so get heavy with them. They are a company, you can report them, have their licence revoked, call the Current Affairs programs etc etc Good luck:cheers:

You gunna swap the bits over from the GTST? PS; PM me if you want to have a drive of ours.

I have 235/40/17's on the front on 17 X 8's with no clearance problems.

Let's see.....some examples that I have seen; 70 Series Supra using a 100 series Chaser PFC An S1 RX7 using an S6 PFC R31GTSR using an R32GTR PFC EF Civic using a DC2 Integra PFC It's all about the engine, the wiring harness and the sensors.

Yep, it's called tuning, do a search there is plenty of info on it.

The Power FC has tables for; Water temp injection correction Air temp injection correction Air temp boost correction (if you have the Boost Control Kit) Ignition water temp correction Ignition air temp correction Ignition boost correction Battery voltage injection correction Battery voltage ignition correction And it flashes the standard dash warning light when; Injector duration exceeds your selected value Knock exceeds your selected value Airflow exceeds your selected value I'm sorry but I CAN COMPLAIN, if I add it all up the Link actually costs more. It takes longer to install, it's not really plug and play, it doesn't have the quality support maps loaded and correction tables preset, the tuning is far more difficult....Someone has to pay for this additional labour, and that means you. If the Power FC "won't work" (whatever that means), then the Link sure as hell won't.I have seen Power FC's running cars with 1100+ bhp, so obviously power isn't the problem. The only issue I can think of is auto transmission, and I can assure you that the Link won't run the auto much worse than the Power FC won't. So post up what it is that you have been told the Power FC won't do. I am sure someone on here will be able to tell you how to do it.

Obviously you don't live in Sydney, there is an hour of traffic to get to the highway.

OH dear, another "XXXX ecu versus Power FC" thread...... This is how I see it..... That's because they are made in NZ So you had problems with a standard Nissan part and it was the Power FC's fault. More likely yours for not servicing your AFM's properly.At least you could easily get a replacement, wait until a MAP sensor fails and you get Ahh no, the WRX is a 4 cylinder and the GTST is a 6 cylinder. So they depreciate (loose their value) pretty quickly, I wonder why? At $1100 new, Power FC's seem to hold their value pretty well, I wonder why? How about 9.4 litres per hundred kilometres from Sydney to Wakfield Park and back (400 k's). And it has a lot more than 300 rwhp. That will save you the $200 price difference pretty quickly. You don't have to tune that with a Power FC, it comes standard in the base maps. That will save you more than the $200 difference in price in extra tuning costs. Must be the way I plug them in, I'm up to ~15 Power FC's and not one car has failed to start first turn of the key and then be driven without issue to the dyno shop for a tune. Cars with the usual mods (exhaust, filter, boost up) drive better than standard most times. I must just be lucky, huh? I have compared a Link side by side with a Microtec, Haltec and Wolf and I can't see any demonstrable superiorities. As for Power FC, Motec, Electromotive and Autronic .....well not even close.The bottom line, if you want your car to drive as "nice" as it did when standard and not cost an arm and leg to buy install, and tune, then there is only one choice in my opinion. The Power FC is unmatched in all those areas, it's the best all round ECU for a Skyline.

One on an RB20DET with 225 rwkw and one on an RB31DET making 415 rwkw (more to come though).

Nissan Dealer:cheers:

The wide-band O2 sensor I would use for this is the Bosch LSU4.2 5-wire. It is easy to calibrate, warms up pretty quick and is fairly stable. So it is easy for novices to use, which is more import than getting 0.1% more accuracy or super fast response. Road tuning is not as demanding on those parameters as dyno tuning, ie; you have time. They cost $US79 plus ~$A10 freight, no duty (US free trade agreement) and generally don't get GST'd. I haven't priced one locally for a couple of years, they were more than triple that when I last checked. What do they go for now?

I use brake cleaner, but anything that doesn't leave a residue is OK. So NOT carby cleaner.

I don't care how much money you spend, if you have read this thread you will find I mentioned a guy I know who buys used RB30 bottom ends, whacks new rings, bearings and seals in it for an all up cost of ~$1200. He then sticks his good top end and turbo on it and goes racing. He usually ends up with around 500 rwhp, and he just races it till it blows up. He has been doing it for around 5 years and is on his 3rd bottom end. Around the same time I built a forged bottom end RB31 that cost me $6K, so he is still 2 engines worth ($2400) ahead. He buys standard VL Commondoor parts, rings, bearings, gaskets and seals. Hones the bores, decks the block and gets the up & down and round & round parts balanced. That's it, no secrets, just a standard rebuild of an RB30E, any machine shop can do it. The real "secret" is tuning and knowing the limits. He doesn't "sneak a bit more boost in", "rev it a bit higher", try for "just another 20 hp". It gets service regularly, uses good oil and the tune is checked often. It isn't tuned on the limit for fuel or ignition, the tune is a bit conservative everywhere. I mentioned "tune" 4 times, not by accident. Hope that is of some help:cheers:

Hmmm,......let's work though the common causes..... Torque, not enough to cause this sort of failure RPM, not enough to cause this sort of failure Traction, not enough to cause this sort of failure Clutch, not usually associated with 3rd gear failures (that's a first gear, drive shaft and diff problem) Lubrication, I assume it had good oil in it and it was carrying the right amount Driver abuse, previous occurances may have caused it to chip or crack a tooth, this occasion was just the last straw Damaged components following previous repairs. Did you have the gears checked prior to assembly? New bearings? Faulty assembly, how was the end float? Gear mesh? Input and output shaft alignment? Cleanliness prior to final assembly? All the usual gearbox suspects. I have yet to see one break for no reason, they handle way more power, rpm and traction than this. So whatever the cause, it has to be eliminated on the next build. Get any used components crack tested and ensure all the tolerances are within specification. That's about the best I can suggest.

My guess.... If I remember rightly Nismo made (modified) about 100 X R32GTR's, and sold them (new) though selected dealers. They had N1 turbos, water and oil pumps and the larger dumps. They also had a body kit, different wheels, spoilers, Nismo intruments etc etc. They sold for almost double what a standard R32GTR sold for. The engine number will provide the answer.

THe Q45 AFM is 90 mm and the ZA32 is 80 mm (same as the RB20/25 AFM). SO the Z32 will fit up without mods to the plumbing, the Q45 won't. The Q45 will have very low airspeed at idle on a 240 rwkw engine, may make idle control difficult. The Z32 will handle 240 rwkw easily, so why make life difficult for yourself?:cheer:

Did you clean the AFM before you put it in?

RB30E (non turbo) with RB25DE head, everything internal standard, new rings, bearings gaskets and seals and all of the up & down and round & round stuff balanced. Made 475 bhp on the engine dyno, still going nearly 5 years later. Proves that if you keep the boost down (1.1 bar) ,service it regularly and tune it properly, it will last a long time.

Try Heasmans (Sydneham) Whiteline (Minto) or East Coast (Kirrawee).

Taking the the teeth off 3rd usually comes down to torque, it just rips the teeth right off. Although you can get a chipped tooth multiplier, if you have a synchro problem. How much power are we talking here? And what sort of tyres?

Hi guys, I have had an ever increasing number of people ask me about tuning their car without going to a dyno. They may live too far away, not have the budget or they simply may want to do it themselves. I have accumulated a few A/F ratio meters over time. I thought to help guys out, I might rent a couple of them out. They are not too expensive to buy, but the maintenance can be relatively high, you have to clean the lambda sensor and perform calibration regularly. So...... How many would be interested in renting one for a week for say $100? That would cover maintenance and repairs etc. What you would get is; *a wide band lambda sensor *long lead to reach to the tail pipe *a clamp for holding the lambda sensor in the tail pipe *a meter and controller with sensor preheating for accuracy *a mount and vacuum cup for attaching the display to the windscreen *a cigarette lighter power plug & supply *a full set of intructions *a laptop interface and logging software to load (not necessary for tuning) *all mailed out to you in an aluminium case What you don't get; *you are doing the tuning, if you damage your engine it's your problem *if you get busted breaking the road rules, it's your problem *I don't have time for dial up support, maybe email would be OK though *insurance, if you break it or loose it, you pay for it *a lap top, you supply your own, if you want to do logging *credit, you pay up front and there will be a deposit (not sure how much yet) *freight, you have to pay both ways, it's light, so $10 should cover almost anywhere in Oz *instant supply, I only have 2 suitable units and I don't want to buy more. So you may have to wait until one becomes available *to use leaded fuel, it must be unleaded * to send it back dirty and greasy, clean it please *your deposit refunded until it is received in good condition This is a survey for me to judge the response, so post away. If I get enough interest I will be ready to go in about 3 weeks, as I would have to clean, service and calibrate the 2 units.