Sydneykid

I measured up the height I wanted before I put them in. For example our Stagea was 390 mm (centre of wheel to guard) at the front, I wanted 370 mm. So I set the circlips such that the bottom Bilstein spring seats were 20 mm lower than the standard spring seat. Rears were 375 mm and I wanted 365 mm so lower the springs seats by 10 mm. Simple stuff. If you want to continually change the heights, then threaded sleaves are a better solution. I have those on the Bilsteins in the race R32 GTST, however we change its height quite often. But for the Stagea I got exactly the height I want, so I don't need to waste money on something I am not going to use. I usually get Bilsteins from Heasmans, the Australian agents. Hope that helps:cheers:

I used Bilsteins with extra circlip grooves to adjust the heights. Picture follows; Check out the full thread in the Stagea section. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=53079 I used the standard Stagea springs, but if I would choose Whiteline springs to go with the Bilsteins.

They go on the upper control arm.

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/catalogues/WLA_02.pdf Page 62 8/93-2/98 R33 GTS RWD BNF24 R 24 C BNR11 R 20 C BNF24X X R 27 C BNR11X X R 22 C BNF24Z A R 24 D BNR11Z A R 20 D B= Stabilser Bar N = Nissan F = Front R = Rear X = Heavy duty XX = Extra heavy duty Z = Adjustable

Things I know that have been different on R34 GTR engines I have seen compared to R33 GTR endines I have seen; 1. Ball Bearing turbos 2. Different camshaft timing 3. N1 blocks 4. Different CAS 5. Stronger valve springs 6. Better dumps 7. Better cat 8. Lighter/stronger pistons 9. N1 oil pressure relief valve 10. Squish zones in the combustion chamber 11. Coils 12, Injector spay patterns 13. Tighter engine balancing tolerances 14. Superior oil return to the sump There are few more ........... Hope that helps:cheers:

Hi DRFT 14, this is a post I prepared earlier, I strongly suggest you do the numbers on your set up and check the ratios; Here is an example of 4 intercooler setups and pipework we have actually used; 1. R33 GTST Standard Intercooler and standard R32 GTST pipework 150 rwkw = 27 lbs of air per min @ 13 litres of i/c & pipework 2. Supra Intercooler and matching 63mm pipework 180 rwkw = 30 lbs of air per min @ 15 litres of i/c & pipework 3. Standard GTR GTR and 63/75mm pipework 250 rwkw = 40 lbs of air per min @ 21 litres of i/c & pipework 4. Greddy 600 X 300 X 115 and 80 mm pipework 400 rwkw = 60 lbs of air per min @ 28 litres of i/c & pipework If you look at the numbers you can see that the rate of air flow and the volume of I/C and pipework have a fixed relationship (27 = 13 , 30 = 15 , 40 = 21 , 60 = 28). This is not an accident, I designed it that way. The reason is I wanted to keep the throttle response as close what it was when the car had 150 rwkw, because I though that was very nice response. The theory I followed was, the more power the engine produces the more air it needs. Thus if I keep the increase in the volume of air inside the inlet system in the same proportion as the power increase, then the throttle response should stay the same. This is based on the engine using the air in the same time frame. So when people say they fitted a FMIC and have not noticed any less throttle response, my response would be, that is what I would expect. As long as they went from 150 rwkw to 180 rwkw. On the other hand, if there was no power increase then it would be simply physically impossible for there to be no decrease in throttle response. The problem of poor throttle response arrises when you have a 220 rwkw engine with a 28 litre inlet system. This is something I see way to often. Hope that helps:cheers:

I get asked this a lot, my usual response is, what is it that you want to protect the engine from? For example, if it is excessive boost causing the knock (eg; stuck wastegate or dud boost controller), then you protect the engine via the boost correction table. When the boost exceeds your programmed levels, throw some fuel in there. If it is excessive water temperature (eg; hot day, busted radiator hose), then you protect the engine via the temp correction table. When the temp exceeds your programmed levels, retard the ignition. If it is excessive air temperature (eg; hot day, busted intercooler), then you protect the engine via the temp correction table. When the temp exceeds your programmed levels, retard the ignition. If you have a Datalogit and a PFC Boost Control Kit you can also reduce the boost levels in three steps of inlet temps. Even go zero boost if you want. There are other correction tables for battery voltage (dud alternator), ignition dwell (dud ignitor) that also retard the timing. You can also adjust the dash light flash for injector warning, knock warning and air flow warning. That's a hell of a lot of programable protection without resorting to the simplistic limp home style that you find in standard ECU's. Plus it makes finding the problem (the one causing the excessive knock) a whole heap easier. Hope that helps:cheers:

Excessive inflation pressure always wears the middle of the tyres on cars with good wheel alignment. On cars with poor wheel alignment, it generally increases the wear on the tyre in the area where the innappropriate alignment is causing problems. This occcurs because of ballooning, as a consequence the other effect is less contact patch on the road. So it must ultimatley result is lower grip levels. Another side effect is reduced feel through the steering (ie; goes light), when the pressure gets way too high it becomes difficult to feel excessive slip angles. On some cars (with innappropriate wheel alignment) it can decrease the tyre wear. But the reality is fixing the suspension geometry would give a far superior all round improvement (ie; better grip, feel and wear). Lastly, we increase tyre pressures in the wet, some say to decrease the contact patch and therefore decrease the chance of water build up between the tread pattern and the road. The reality for us is that all it does is compensate for the smaller increase in pressure as a reult of the lower heat levels. By increasing the cold tyre pressure in the rain, we end up with running (hot) tyre pressures much the same as in the dry.

Hi guys, fianlly got around to fitting up the stereo gear the night before the 1200 k trip. It has a Nakamichi head unit, a Soundstream 400 watt 4 channel amp and 2 pairs of MB Quart 6.5" co axials, one in each door. The amp is mounted under the driver seat at the moment, but I might move it later on. Big improvement over standard, I ran out of time to fit the front tweaters in the A pillars. I removed the standard tweaters but was slowed down by not finding any signal at the standard wiring. This weekend I will run around with he multimeter and find the other end of them. I now have a spare din hole, gauges maybe? The Greddy boost gauge is 60 mm, so it's too big though. So is the EGT gauge. More thinking needed and some suggestions might help????????

Welcome to the ever growing band of Stagea owners My latest WTFiT, young country fella (it was Tamworth after all) in VL (RB30) Commondoor. Pulled up behind him while he was filling up with gas, he almost dropped his nozzle; "Mate, gotta ask what is that". The usual "It's Stagea" Usual puzzled look, "a Skyline waggon". "Oh, turbo?" "Yep, and 4wd like a GTR" "Nice!" He waited while I filled up and drove off so he could see it driving down the main street.:wavey:

Hi guys, before Jaycar IBC, DFA and a quick tune, 14.5 litres per hundred kilometres, after = 12.0 litres per hundred kilometres. Hoping the exhaust will help some more.

Hi Duncan, oh gooooody, a chance for a debate....... High performance road tyres and "R type" tyres are very close together now in carcas construction and tread pattern. Only the compound is softer and the tread depth less (3 to 4 mm less) this is to keep the skin temperature down, which is caused by tread movement if it is too deep. So any tyre pressure advice more than 3/4 years old, is out of date with the advances in high performacne tyres. Like many instructors, I tell people to pump up their tyres to 40 psi. But they have just driven there, so that is warm pressure at best. That aside, it's a generalisation, if they have low profile high performance tyres, I wouldn't tell them that. If they said to me "I have these suspension settings" I would also modiify my tyres pressure advice depending on the settings. If it happens to be a suspension set up day, then I would check the tyre temperatures and adjust the pressures to achieve an even temp spread. I have yet to find a road tyre that has even temps at over 40 psi and that's hot pressure (very hot pressure). I think if you read back over madmuf's post he was suggesting 38 psi cold. That's going to end up a lot more than 40 psi hot. Otherwise you are spot on. I agree with you on inside tyre wear on lowered Skylines, that's why I posted If that is cold pressure then I would argue strongly that what you are experiencing is "feel", not actual increased grip. If that is hot pressure, then you are probably not far off. We ran Yokohama road tyres (not R's) for 6 hours flat out at 36 psi hot. Similar pressures on R tyres of 3 different brands for 3 X Bathurst 12 hours, 4 X 6 Hours, 3 X 2 hours and 1 X 24 hour. That's my experiences.The people who benefit most from "40 psi cold pressure advice" are firstly those that simply don't check their tyre pressure and have 20 in one and 35 in another etc. Cars that have low performance tyres and high profiles and mostly those with bad suspension geometry. There is some justification, but Skylines are high performance cars and their owners should have the other items covered, Personally I am not going to give "wrong" advice to people who have done the "right" things. Much better to give them the "right" advice and tell them why. My 20 cents worth:cheers:

I wonder why they have a design rule then? So the tyre companies are wrong? They don't know their own tyres? Try "under 20 psi". Care to explain how 50 psi in your tyres (hot) lowers the "chance of a blow out"? That's more to do with suspension geometry than tyre presures. "Get a decent wheel alignment" would be a better suggestion to improve tyre life. At 38 psi my Skylines would wear out the middle of the tyres, but they have proper suspension geometry. At 30 to 32 psi they wear nice and even across the tread. But hey what would I know? I have only been racing and engineering race cars for 25+ years. One of our cars had pole position and 4 race wins out of 4 races last weekend, and it didn't have 38 lbs in its tyres hot, let alone cold. Sorry if the above is a bit harsh, but something so obviously WRONG has to be killed off pretty heavily.

At 172 rwkw it's not a problem, at 80 mm diameter, it's prettty much bigger than all of the pipework. There are plenty of other cars with AFM restrictions, but not Skylines.

Hi Michael, I have/have had a large number of cars with Konis, personally I have never had a problem. One of our cars (not a Skyline) has Konis in it and they are fantastic. On that car (and ones like it), I would use Konis over Bilsteins every time. But (there is always as but) Skylines are very heavy and the mono tube design of the Bilsteins gives a greater piston area than the Konis. This means better damping capacity, in that more oil goes through the valves for the same amount of suspension movement. Plus, being monotube, there is more oil inside the damper, so they don't overheat as quickly. As usual, it boils down to horses for courses and the Bilstein design is simply better for a Skyline in my opinion. PS; $1300 fitted with a four wheel alignment is an OK price, not fantastic but OK.

Hi J, the circlip grooves are the same dimensions as the standard ones (1.5mm wide by 0.6 mm deep). The springs seats are the new generation, standard Bilstein ones. Most popular Bilsteins come with the alloy seats now. If you have access to a lathe then you can easily do it, I am no machinist and it took me about an hour to do all 4. You do need to have the right tool for the job, being 1.5 mm wide. That is a common size, many piston rings are 1.5mm, so we had a couple in the machine shop. I know Whiteline will machine extra grooves if you buy the Bilsteins from them, they charge ~$100 or so for a full set of grooves on 4 shocks. I think Heasmans (the Australian Bilstein agents) do the same. Hope that helps:cheers:

SR20DET uses an AFM for its master load sensor, so no reason it won't work exactly the same as on RB. The SR20 solenoids I have seen are pretty much the same as the RB ones, they are the preferred "normally closed" type. So again, I see no reason why it won't work. For ~$200 for the three (DFA, IBC and Controller) kits I can't think of a better bang for buck tuning solution.

All true, but the inlet pipe itself is a restriction, I have seen one sucked in without any air filter at all. The convolutions, particularly around the bends are the main culprit. Since air flow is laminar (sticks to the outsides) having a smooth sided mandrel bend will reduce that restriction. As the rubber ages it gets softer where it flexes (when the motor twists on its mounts) and is more easily sucked closed. It shouldn't be high on your list of mods, but worth keeping in mind nonetheless.

Ahhh, standard springs are OK, actually quite good for drag work. But standard shocks, even when new, don't have the rebound valving to control the spring oscillations. And after a few k's...............well it's all downhill from there:cheers:

How wide are the rims? What brand and size are the tyres?

190 rwkw = standard RB20DET AFM is OK:cheers:

Hi Snowman, what sort of tyres was that on?

Yep:cheers:

I have a GTR fuel pump in an R32 GTST, it sorta bolts straight in. It is bigger in diameter so you have to modify the rubber bottom mount, plus I fitted a stainless screw clamp around it and the bracket just to be sure.

Sorry JaFF, but it does have dip, if you draw a straight line beween 95 kph (100 rwkw) and 150 kph (165 rwkw) you will find a dip of ~10 rwkw at 110 kph, 115 kph, 120 kph, 125 kph, 125 kph.......... Admittedly that is not as bad as some, but all engines are different. You are also running different fuel and most importantly base ignition timing. The dip is caused by having to compromise between leaner A/F ratios and advancing ignition timing when bending the AFM voltage with the SAFC (or equivalent). With a PFC (or equivalent) you simply don't 'have that compromise as they are independently tuneable. By fitting and tuning a PFC, I would say you could get ~20rwkw increase between 90 kph and 150 kph and that 's without increasing the max power at all.