Sydneykid

Stick to 63 mm pipework for the feed from the turbo to the intercooler and 75mm from the intercooler to the throttle body. Then apply the 120 degree bend at the throttle body design of pipework. You will end up around 19 litres which will give the appropriate airflow versus inlet volume ratio for 200 rwkw:cheers:

Hi guys, here is one I prepared earlier using an example of 4 intercooler setups and pipework we have actually used; 1. R33 GTST Standard Intercooler and standard R32 GTST pipework 150 rwkw = 27 lbs of air per min @ 13 litres of i/c & pipework 2. Supra Intercooler and matching 63mm pipework 180 rwkw = 30 lbs of air per min @ 15 litres of i/c & pipework 3. Standard GTR GTR and 63/75mm pipework 250 rwkw = 40 lbs of air per min @ 21 litres of i/c & pipework 4. Greddy 600 X 300 X 115 and 80 mm pipework 400 rwkw = 60 lbs of air per min @ 28 litres of i/c & pipework If you look at the numbers you can see that the rate of air flow and the volume of I/C and pipework have a fixed relationship (27 = 13 , 30 = 15 , 40 = 21 , 60 = 28). This is not an accident, I designed it that way. The reason is I wanted to keep the throttle response as close what it was when the car had 150 rwkw, because I though that was very nice response. The theory I followed was, the more power the engine produces the more air it needs. Thus if I keep the increase in the volume of air inside the inlet system in the same proportion as the power increase, then the throttle response should stay the same. This is based on the engine using the air in the same time frame. So when people say they fitted a FMIC and have not noticed any less throttle response, my response would be, that is what I would expect. As long as they went from 150 rwkw to 180 rwkw. On the other hand, if there was no power increase then it would be simply physically impossible for there to be no decrease in throttle response. The problem of poor throttle response arrises when you have a 220 rwkw engine with a 28 litre inlet system. This is something I see way to often. Hope that makes some sense:cheers:

How much boost do you want to run? What is the power target?

We have used the ACL RB30 bearings up to 900 bhp, no problems:cheers:

The return from the rail usually goes into the swirl pot. Then the overflow from the top of swirl pot goes back to the tank. Don't worry about "heating up the fuel" it's simply not an issue, even at double the power output you are looking at.

Hi Roy, retarded ignition timing makes the engine run hot. Maybe that's your answer to the extra 10 degrees.

I have used R33/34 GTR intercoolers up to 300 rwkw without problems. I make up my own pipework, but I can't see how the pipework for one 600 X 300 intercooler would differ anyway. The only issue may be the silicone joiners at the end tanks, but their prices don't vary much.

I haven't seen differential voltage on R32's. It doesn't matter anyway, since it is only switching voltage. Simply select a suitable relay for the posible range of voltages. I use a solid state relay, not mechanical as it is located close to fuel. No sparks for me. I run both pumps off the same relay. So it is simply a matter of pulling up the standard wiring harness, plugging the switch wiring into the relay, and then using the harness (I made up) to connect to the pumps. To put it back to standard I just unplug the relay remove the external pump and plug the standard wiring back into the standard pump in the tank. Hope that makes sense:cheers:

I have a little ongoing test for the Stagea handling improvements. One of my heighbours has a Forrester GT manual (exhaust & boost), we both leave for work at similar times and travel the local winding road which has 15 corners in 1 km. When I first got the Stagea I couldn't keep up, he would gradually get away no matter how hard I pushed. When I put the stabiliser bars on I could just hang on, with a bit of effort. He was impressed. I upped the boost last week (to 0.7 bar) and I could then pull up to him on acceleration between the corners. This morning, with the Bilsteins in, he was slowing me up in some of the corners. He was mightly impressed. Next week, if we meet up, I will have the rear Bilsteins in and the A/F ratios tuned, so I will lead for the first time and see if he can keep up.

Fitted the front Bilsteins on Sunday, but ran out of time to do the rears as I had to help the guys pack up for next weekend's interstate race meeting. So I have been driving it around for 3 days with the Bilsteins in the front and the worn out standard shocks in the rear. To enable some height adjustbility, I machined a few extra circlip grooves in the Bilstein shock bodies on the lathe on Saturday. A comparison of the spring seat positions, this one proved ot be a little low so i went up one groove. I lowered the front 20 mm and it now sits around 10 mm lower in the front than the rear (measured at the sills). The front springs are 165 lbs per inch and have a lot of preload, necessary to hold up the considerable front end weight. This means spring compressors are essential. I also had to shorten the bump stops to gain back the lost movement. The handling improvement is sure noticeable, it has a lot more front end grip, but the ride is very strange. The bouncing rear is a sharp contrast to the controlled front, and it is not comfortable. I think I have neck whiplash, so I will stick the rear Bilsteins in tonight, if time allows:cheers:

I did a bit of testing yesterday and when I turn the boost up to ~1 bar, the ECU seems like it does its usual "rich & retard" strategy based on the excessive readings from the AFM. At the same time the "Power" light comes on, at the tranmission selector on the console. This appears to foul the plugs and the engine goes very sluggish and misses on one or more cylinders. If I turn the car off, the ECU seems to reset itself and it runs fine again. Until the next excessive airflow event. Does this sound like other's experiences?

Nope, but it's got a BIG donk! :wassup:

Hell yes, that's where you feel the biggest improvement in response, not so much power. You can get quite a bit of earlier boost build by advancing the timing. With the above in mind, I keep advancing till it pings or the boost starts to drop off. Whichever comes first. On the dyno, you simply watch for power drop off, but that usually corresponds with a boost drop or some pre-ignition anyway. You can also see it on the AFM voltage, if you go too far (advanced) the airflow drops off. You got it.

My 20 cents worth; Plenty of cars are tuned without dynos Ignition timing is easy, advance it till it pings, then knock it back 2 degrees If you have a PFC you can read knock off the Commander, keep it below 40. (the dash warning is adjustable via the Commander) Fuel mixtures are pretty easy to read off the spark plugs, it's been done that way for many decades If you want to be more precise, you can buy a pretty good A/F meter with a fast and wide lambda sensor for under $500. Spread that amongst 3 or 4 guys and you have cheap tuning for ever. Most tuning time is used up setting the base parameters (though not much of that with a PFC). When you make further upgrades the required tuning changes are not very dramatic. This is the big advantage of the Power FC, it uses the AFM sensor as its main input. Most upgrades that you do result in changes (hopefully increases) in airflow, that the AFM sees. An example, I have changed intercoolers 3 times and the tune barely changed at all. Maybe 15 minutes of fine tuning on the dyno. It is always better to develope a rapour with your tuner, so frequent small visits will get you a faster, nicer running, better tuned car than one only visit. Everyday you drive around with a rich running Skyline costs you $'s in fuel. Not to mention less lambda sensor wear and freer flowing cat. Bottom line, get it tuned now:cheers:

There is a difference in the front suspension between 2wd and 4wd. The 4wd weighs ~160kgs more in the front, so the spring heights and rates would be too high if used in a 2wd.

Ahhh Mr Walker, how the devil are you? :wassup: (for you non Phantom readers, Devil was the Ghost Who Walk's dog) You can change the dynamic camber by moving the control arm mounting points. For example, by lowering the upper outer pivot point (or rasing the inner upper pivot point) you will get less negative camber on suspension compression. This can be achieved by eccentric bushes. You can also do the lower arm inner, but they are usually longer and thus the eccentric buhese have a smaller (but still valuable) effect. Hope that helps

Some are heated as well (4 or 5 wires).

My 20 cents worth; Oil filter = same as VL/Skyline (RB30), Pulsar Pintara, Bluebird etc etc Part #Z145A or V04 Engine oil = Castrol Formula R Synthetic 10W60 or 0W40. Brake Fluid = Castrol SRF 4WD Transfer = Castrol Transmax Z Auto Gearbox= Castrol Transmax Z Radiator = Castrol Anit-Freeze Anti-Boil Diffs = Castrol SAF-XA 75W140 Front Springs = same as R33 GTR Rear Springs = unique (will have measured up a set this week) Spark plugs (high speed) = NGK BCPR7ES (copper, gapped to 0.8 mm) ~$20 per set of 6. Low speed = 1 range hotter, traffic = 2 ranges hotter. Anybody know the auto box filter part number, it should be the same for the 2wd's R32 GTST, R33 GTST, 300ZX, 200SX etc

Yep, 2530's are ball bearing. Nope. the ECU tells the injector how long to stay open (not how much fuel to squirt in). Bigger injector = more fuel in the same time open. So if you have say 650 cc injectors they will squirt ~50% more fuel in the same time that they are open. You need to tell the ECU to open the injectors for ~30% shorter time. That means tuning the ECU or intercepting the main load sensor (AFM) signal and bending it so that the ECU shortesn the injector open time. Hope that helps

Reason #1. Movement ratio and leverage ratio, they are different front to rear. The spring rates are therefore not directly comparable. The chassis only sees the spring rate at the tyre, it doen't matter what the rate of spring itself is. Reason #2, the front can tolerate a much higher spring rate than the rear before it looses traction. If you went up substantially in the front spring rate and still kept the factory balance front to rear, you would have a wild oversteerer. It would also not power down very well. Reason #3, you can't look at the spring rate in isolation. The stabilser bar rates are also important and the front bar has more anti roll than the rear. Reason #4, the damper rates are also relevant. Reason #5, as are the relative anti dive and anti squat geometry. Reason #6. the front and rear role centres and centres of gravity are quite different. This is particulalry evident in the GTR, GTS4 and Stagea where the roll couple is not the same as the GTST, GTS, GTT etc. This is due to the front/low weight of the 4wd hardware and the altered front suspension geometry necessitated by the need to accommodate the drive shafts. There are a couple more, but I think I that's enough for this post.

Stick the PFC in on the base maps, it should be fine. You prety much have the usual mods that Apexi set the base maps for. I would suggest 95 ron fuel plus some octane booster (cheap in the US). Watch the knock, if it gets too high, simply retard the static ignition timing. If it looks a little lean on the plugs or exhaust pipe, you have an adjustable fuel pressure regualtor and a capable pump, turn up the rail fuel pressure a bit. That will fix any leanness. I have run many RB25DET's on the PFC default maps, just be careful, watch the knock levels and the spark plug colouration.

My understanding is that the front half of the tailshaft is the same, but the rear is longer:cheers:

If you really must have a manual, then I strongly suggest that you buy a manual. The money will come back to you when you sell it. A "real" manual will always be worth more than a converted auto. Plus I doubt whether the cost saving would be that much. The manual S2's are not commanding as much premium over the tiptronic autos as they used to.

I changed the front shocks on the weekend and I noticed, when I have one front wheel off the ground, I can't rotate it. It is pretty tight as I can undo the wheel nuts (tyre service 120 ft lbs to undo them). If I leave it for a while, a few hours, I can then turn it. I assume this is the ATTESSA residual hydraulic pressure, this happen in the GTR's. Since I have the Stagea in Park, the tranmission is locked so the one wheel can't rotate independantly. Keeping this in mind, the vibration when reversing is an indicator that the Stagea may have some form of LSD in the front. Anyone seen that mentioned in the specs?

Here is a post I made several times, most of it is applicable. If you want to know more, do a search, all the info you will need is there. 1. We use a ball bearing hi flowed RB25DET turbo on our old RB20DET for 220 rwkw (295 rwhp or 370 bhp) at 1.3 bar. This turbo holds more than 1.1 bar of boost from 4,000 rpm to 8,000 rpm, so it is never off boost on gear changes. We have found this is the most airflow (max power) we can get and keep the rpm range useable. We have a few more mods than you have listed, split dump, 3.5 inch exhaust, no cat (it's a race car), GTR cams, adjustable pulleys, Power FC with boost controller, POD filter, heat shield and a substantial ambient air feed. The exhaust manifold was a copy of the R31 GTRS Group A manifold which has the turbo mounted low and rear for better weight distribution. As usual GCG did this hi flow. Oh and the engine was standard internally, never even had the head off. The other alternative is to go the Garrett route as you said, but I would suggest a GT25R with this spec; 0.86 A/R Turbine Housing 0.70 A/R Compressor Housing Watercooled Core 48 Trim Compressor Wheel 76 Trim Turbine Wheel Internal Wastegate This turbo will flow 48 lbs/min max, which is easily enough for 420 bhp. But it ain't gunna make much boost at 4,000 rpm, more like 5,000 rpm. And it's gunna need cams, pulleys and a good split dump/exhaust system to make even that. So you are gunna have to rev it to 8,000 rpm before you upchange, otherwise it's gunna drop off the power band severely. You will need at least 1.6 bar and maybe as much as 1.9 bar to make your power target. Add these together (1.9 bar + 8,000 rpm) and you have a short life for your internally standard RB20DET that already has 100,000 k's on it. End of that post, but there are plenty more around if you do a search:cheers: PS; Did I mention doing a search?