Sydneykid

On an R32 you reroute the rear power steering supply (the one that goes to the solenoids on the front RHS inner guard) via the power steering cooler back into the power steering fluid reservoir. You can remove the two solenoids at the front and the one at the rear, plus the supply and return pipework. All up saving of ~20 kgs including the rear rack.

From memory 2,465 cc's:cheers:

The boost control kit plugs into the Power FC (which is in the standard ECU position behind the LHS kick panel), so it is invisible in the cabin (no blue screens). You can unplug the Commander as well if you want. Under the engine bay there is the solenoid, but it is not particularly obvious, stick it under the airbox (totally out of sight) if you want. Ditto the map sensor, it is black and not very obvious either. Keep the wiring harnesses looking standard and it would be pretty hard to spot anything modified. Stick a Pipercross panel in the standard air filter box and they won't see that either.

Just finished tuning the Stagea with the Jaycar Boost Controller & Digital Fuel Adjuster. There was a half hour window where the 4wd dyno and the operator were both free at the same time. Tuning took all of 20 minutes on the rollers with Dyno Dave running the Dyno Dynamics and your truly pushing the buttons on the Jaycar Controller. With ZERO mechanical changes (std exhaust, std intercooler, std airfilter etc), just the 2 Jaycar electronic controllers fitted, we managed 132 4wkw at 10 psi running a nice and safe 11 to 1 AFR's. At midday on a 30 degree plus day, with no temperature correction applied. That's a good 30% improvement over standard, for an all up cost of $380 in parts and dyno time. That's what I call good bang for my buck. As well as making more power, I also leaned out the AFR's to a more fuel economy friendly 14.5 to 1 at the lower rpms (off boost). The standard AFR's were 12 to 1 off boost and went as high as 9 to 1 on boost, not good for power or fuel economy. I would have liked to go a little leaner than 11 to 1, but the ignition timing was getting a bit advanced as I pulled more fuel out of it with the DFA lowering the AFM voltage. It was the usual piggy back compromise, no doubt exacerbated by the standard exhaust, compliance cat and standard intercooler. I could trick the standard ECU just so much, then it would pull ignition timing and dump a whack of fuel in. My biggest single observation with the Jaycar DFA was how easy it was to get rid of the usual RB25DET power dip around 4,250 rpm. With 100 settings at 128 load points I could fine tune it so easily. There is simply NO DIP, and anyone who has tuned an RB25DET will tell you that is hard to achieve with piggy back controllers. Next step is to fit the cat back exhaust and I am expecting to pick up a good 20 4wkw with that.

If you relocate the AFM hot wire sensor into a larger diameter pipe then it will show lower air speed (therefore lower voltage) for the same volume of air ingested. It isn't quite linear, but simplistically, if you take an RB20 AFM hot wire sensor and stick it in a 90 mm housing it will show around 4.0 volts at the same airflow that it showed 5.1 volts in the original 80 mm housing. The problem is at idle it will show 1.0 volts instead of 1.3 volts, and that may be too low for the ECU to use. That is the main reason why the Z32 AFM upgrade is popular, they show almost exactly the same voltage at idle, the advantage is they tapper off as the airflow increases. As I said not a linear change. I have seen a couple of cars with airflow meters in the pipework from the intercooler to the plenum. Most usually the 90mm Q45 AFM's. The problem with doing it seems to be mechanical as they are plastic and the inlet flange (where the airfliter box usually bolts on) is not very strong. They also seemed to have additional retaining methods (epoxy and bolts) holding the hot wire sensor in place. Obviously being under boost, you can't afford to have any leaks. This is also quit effective if you locate the BOV before the AFM, that way you don't get the sudden spike of richness when the BOV vents. Have I opened Pandora's box enough?

Hi burkey, I actually got this particular set from Gary, he only had them for few weeks, the fronts were brand new. I would usually buy Bilsteins from Heasmans, the Australian agents. UAS also sell them, and I think Autospeed are the agents for Heasmans in Tas, maybe check with them first. Prices do vary a bit, so shop around. PM me if you need more info.

It's only 4" diameter compared to 3" diameter, that's 12.7 mm lower, hardly noticeable. Plus my 3" cat wasn't anyway close to the floor, it sits up into a raised section next to the transmission. Regardless, the cat on my car is not the lowest point on the exhaust system by a long way. The bit that goes under the driveshafts is easily 50 mm lower.

Hi guys, all R33's I have seen have VVT, both GTS and GTST, 2 door and 4 door. Even Stageas have VVT. It varies the inlet valve timing only, does nothing to the lift or the exhaust timing or lift. The only RB25DE I have seen without VVT was in the later R32's. The R33 RB25DET has simple "on" or "off" VVT, it is "off" up to around 4,500 rpm then "on" from there to rev limit. The "off" mostly is for emmisions and fuel economy, although it does help slightly with torque. The "onj" is for power, although it doesn help slightly with emmisions and fuel economy.. The R34 RB25DET (Neo, as it is sometimes called) has infiniitely variable VVT, the (later generation/smarter) ECU moves the inlet camshaft timing around depending on the load conditions (not just RPM). The Neo versions of the RB25DET are good for 206 kw, around 20 more than the R33 versions. They also have solid camshaft followers (R32 and R33 RB25's have hydraulic). My 20 cents worth:cheers:

Hi Guys, I thought that we had covered all the possible threads on turbos for RB25's, and everyone was using the search button. But then up pops another one, exactly the same (usual) question.......so I give the same (usual) answer........ We have an R34 GTT that makes 265rwkw (355 rwhp) on a GCG ball bearing hi flow, and it makes more power EVERYWHERE than it did standard. That is pretty close to the 450 bhp that the hi flow is rated at. For a half days work, bolt on (no fabrication required) it is hard to beat. Plus it looks STANDARD, never going to have a rego inspection problem at any level. That was 2 1/2 years ago, what about the new turbos released since? Well, despite having plenty of other choices, I am using a GCG ball bearing hi flow on the Stagea. My 20 cents worth:cheers:

Hi Roy, my understanding is the retarded igntion timing causes the combustion to be still taking place when the exhaust valve opens. This means that it continues to burn as it passes through the exhaust port. There is a lot of water cooling (jacket) around the exhaust port, so this excessive heat is passed into the water. Hence higher water temps. PS; that car you saw at Philip Island, pole position and 4 race wins over the weekend.

That's a ball bearing hi flow, ie; it uses a ball bearing core with water cooling. You can get a plain bearing hi flow job done much cheaper. Personally I see no reason to replace a ball bearing water cooled turbo with a plain bearing oil cooled one. As for power, we have 265 rwkw (355 rwhp) out of a GCG hi flow on an R34GTT and that's pretty damn close to its rated 450 bhp. Plus it makes more power EVERYWHERE than it did when standard. So I don't feel ripped off, in fact I am using another GCG ball bearing hi flow on the Stagea. I had plenty of other choices, but I don't feel there is a better turbo for my requirements. For $1950 (all up, no more to pay) and half a days work (just bolting and unbolting, no fabrication required) I can't think of better value for my money or time spent. PS; 265 rwkw and it looks standard, never likely to fail a rego check at any level.

My suggestion would always be to use AFM's wherever possible, they are simply the best method for accurately sensing airflow into the engine and therefore tuning it. There are other ways to overcome reversion, for example HKS (and others) make a simple voltage modifier that holds the AFM voltage solid during gearchanges (and sharp back off). Thus the AFM doesn't report the double airflow to the ECU. The HKS unit is called a EIDS (Electronic Idle Stabiliser) they also have a EIDS Pro (Electronic Idle stabiliser Pro) but I haven't seen one of those in operation yet. Other, more simpler, methods are to use a decent plumb back BOV (such as the standard GTR ones). Generally 50% of the short term richness problem attributed to reversion is really caused by running an atmosphere BOV. And 50% of what's left is due to poor BOV location and operation. A larger diameter inlet pipe from the AFM to the turbo also helps, as does the longest pipe you can fit. Apexi's own 1100 ps drag car (VMax) uses AFM's, obviously they could have gone to map sensors if they wanted, but they chose to go for a pair of Q45 AFM's. I am sure they didn't do it for any reason other than it offered a performance advantage. At the very least, it offered no performance dissadvantage. My 20 cents worth:cheers:

I can't work this coil paranoia out, I have no problems at 265 rwkw with standard RB25 coils. Maybe it's because I use NGK copper plugs with 0.8mm gap. I have no problems with RB26 coils at 400+ rwkw either, but I use NGK copper plugs at 0.7mm gap. I have no problems with RB20 coils at 225 rwkw, but I use NGK copper plugs at 0.8 mm gap. I see a trend there:cheers:

I have NEVER seen less than a 15 rwkw increase in average power from fitting an adjustable exhaust camshaft pulley to an RB25DET. PS; although not with the RB25DET (Neo 260 and non Neo 256) Tomei Poncams, they seem to be perfectly timed out of the box.

Just to clarify, 475 bhp on the engine dyno and a little bit under 300 rwkw on the DD roller, 4.5 years and 72,000k's. The secret is tuning, tuning, tuning, zero knock, keep the boost down (1.1 bar is plenty for 300 rwkw if you choose the right turbo) and service it with good oil regularly (we use Castrol Formula R Synthetic 10W60) and keep the oil cool with a cooler. PS; did I mention tuning?

Hi Dave, what you are describing is totally normal, unless I have missed something. At idle the throttle is closed, the engine is running (sucking) so there is vacuum between the inlet valve and the throttle body. If there wasn't vacuum (sucking) then the engine wouldn't get any air in, so it wouldn't run. Hope that answered your question:cheers:

Hi Gary, yep the Bilsteins were a huge improvement over the standard shocks, that were also well past their use by date. I just have to add some more caster (adj radius rod bushes) and it will be perfect. We have a 1200 k run to do next weekend with a bit of a load in it, so that will test it out. The fronts, being brand new, took a few days to settle in whereas the rears, being lightly used, were spot on straight away. For my purposes I don't think I would want to go much higher in the spring rate than standard. It already has 165 lbs per inch in the front, which is very high for a family waggon.

Sorry, but you confused me with the first post........ I thought that meant you knew what you were doing and just needed a suggestion on where to set the exhaust camshaft timing as a starting position. Before you got it properly tuned, that is. Sorry, but it has been a long weekend racing, I will try and get around to bashing out the basic instructions tomorrow. It would appear that you haven't looked at what brand of pulley you want to buy I haven't seen one for a number of years that hasn't got the degrees stamped on it. So choosing your brand would be a good place to start. I use the Jun pulleys myself, but the choice is quite large. In the interim, I suggest you do a thorough search as there are hundreds of posts on this subject.

My experience has been that a good place to start is 4 degrees retarded, that's crankshaft degrees not camshaft degrees:cheers:

The Commander tunes all PFC's as far as fuel and igition mapping is concerned. Just that some of the less used menu items aren't accessible via the Commander (same as all PFC's) and need the PC software to get at them. The real question here is, why do you think you need a DJ in lieu of a standard PFC?

I have cleaned and tested many RX7 Series V turbo injectors and they ALL have flowed their rated amount, generally plus 3% (ie; 565 cc's instead of 550 cc's). They are getting on a bit in age, so you do get some that won't repond to cleaning, won't even make 200 cc's and so they are best rejected.

Not necessary:cheers:

I think Croydons are the only ones in Australia with the genuine PFC Excel software, I have not seen any differences in the software for DJ's. We use the various versions of Datalogit and they seems to work OK as well. You just get a couple of extra options on the set up. Amybe pop over to www.fc-datalogit.com and ask a few questions about DJ's and software versions. We get PFC's from Nengun, never had a problem buying stuff from them

Make sure it has a cargo cover, they are very expensive to buy later on.

I don't think you can, the Wolf is set up like all EBC's, it expects the solenoid to be in parallel with the wastegate actuator. So it closes the solenoid to decrease boost. That's the wrong way for solenoids in series, they need to open to lower boost. It certainly feels more responsive than any boost controller I have tried. It's a thought, but keep in mind it isn't as easy to program as an aim type boost controller, you have to set it up load point by load point and it is time consuming. The rules still apply, it will hold boost as long as the turbo is capable of producing the airflow. No boost controller can overcome that Basically exactly the same as what happens if the standard car busts/pops off a vacuum hose, the wastegate stays closed. The standard ECU protects the engine in those cases, make sure you set up yours to do the same Hope that answered your questions:cheers: