Sydneykid

Stock are lower that Kings spring rate, so I would use them. I have no idea what "RSR" is.

For drifting you need a 2 way, you want to start the drift without power on. So you need the diff "locked" under brakes (hand or foot). I strongly suggest adjustable stabiliser bars, you can't easily change the springs rates for more or less traction (front and rear). You need adjustability for the different conditions. Adj stabiliser bars are the easiest way to adjust the front and rear slip angles.

Wrong, you need 2 nuts on the bottom of the link bush. The spare one you have is the lock nut the stops the bush winding down the link rod. This is from my post in the Stagea section on Suspension... You can't quite see it in the picture but there are 2 nuts below the link bush. Hope that helps:cheers:

I thought everyone with an RB25DET knew how to do it. You just disconnect the solenoid (vacuum, not electricaly), connect the boost feed directly to the wastegate and use the (standard) restrictor to bypass the desired amount back into the turbo inlet. The standard byspass hole of 1.25 mm bypasses enough air flow for 0.5 bar. Tools needed = one pair of pliers and 10 minutes. PS; If you want more boost you can drill out the bypass, 1.5 mm = more boost (around 0.7 bar) 1.75mm = a bit more (around 1.0 bar). But the Jaycar Boost Controller needs the bypass to relieve trapped pressure between the solenoid and the wastegate actuator. So I don't want to redrill the restrictor only have to solder it back up again.

Maybe time to visit my best friend the electronics engineer, he has a nice scope and the knowledge to use it. I don't want to build a Jaycar peak hold adaptor if I don't have to. PS; I got sick of waiting, so at 4.00 am today I rerouted the vacuum hoses and worked the boost up to 0.5 bar, goes a lot better than 0.3/0.4 bar. Zero cost, 10 minute job.

I have a Performance Metalcraft (work of art) split dump and engine pipe combo in stainless steel. It is wrapped in Thermoctec back to the cat. The cat is a Magic 4" stainless. The exhaust is a nice, quiet no name, low stainless content, 80mm Jap brand that came off the R32 GTST. It has a large resonator and a huge rear muffler. I have to lengthen it after the diff as the Stagea is longer than the R32. Total cost $1400. PS; I am going ot be using a Trust 95 mm titanium on the R32GTST, as the RB31DET will need it.

The only thing I would add to what the guys have already said is add some positive caster, get some adjustable radius rod bushes (Whiteline have them). I would not suggest much negative camber for a mostly road car as it wears the tyres, around 0.5 to 1 degree negative is OK.

Go to Centreline (Chris) or Traction Tyres (Andrew). They have Bilsteins, Konis and Whiteline springs, stabiliser bars and alignment products and they know their stuff. Please don't go to Pedders.

Anyone checked their impedance? If it is low (2-3 ohms) then they are most likely peak and hold. I have never seen high impedance (13-14 ohms) injectors used for peak and hold. But you never know with Nissan.

Hi guys, I prefer split dumps (one pipe for wastegate and one for turbine) over combined and the longer they are separated the better. So I never buy a separate dump and an engine pipe, the dump is too short to have long enough separation. I use combined dump and engine pipe that way the separation can be really long to keep the wastegate turbulance away from the turbine exit. This is the CES one; Hope that helps:cheers:

I do it this way.....4kg/mm X 25.4 (mm's in an inch) X 2.2 (lbs in a kg) = 224 lbs per inch. Which is OK for the front, but still too high for the rear. I would guess that they are still trying to compensate for the low rear anti roll by running a higher than necessary (to hold the car up) rear spring rate. A stabiliser bar upgrade is a technically superior solution. In the real world that means it won't compromise the ride comfort as much and allow much better (less wheelspin, more traction) launches.

This sounds like the one I need, ends up close to the ECU. Any chance of posting a picture J?

Same, if I remember rightly there are 3 guys using R33 GTST engine pipes. I am using an R32 GTST combo (split dump and engine pipe in one) on mine. The part numbers are the same from a couple of Jap suppliers. Don't know about the cat, but I can't see any reason why it would be different.

Oh no, not another one that is kidding..... Only Mitsubishi could be stupid enough to have MIVEC technology and not use it on the 4G63. With a proper variable cam timing and lift top end, it might be a reasonable engine. It takes us aftermarket enthusiasts to do job properly and put 4G63 bottom ends under Cyborg cylinder heads. That's makes a silk purse out of a sows ear.... Yeh, I know, I should post it on the Mitsi forums for a stir.....

Hi guys, anyone found a good grommet (or two) to pass wires through from the engine bay to the cabin?

Let's get a couple of things straight, #1 I have more SR's than RB's right now. #2 I have more Chevs than both added together and I have more Hondas engines than Chevs. So RB's can't be classified as my "chosen engine".

You are joking aren't you? Horsepower = torque X rpm So what if the SR has Xlbs more at 4,000 rpm, it's a dead duck at 7,500 rpm. The RB20 is going strong to 9,000 rpm. It's simple maths. There is no way an SR can produce 20% more torque than an RB, but the RB can rev 20% higher. So the RB will always have more horsepower as long as everything else is equal. Let's get down to the block issue, is there anyone out there who really believes that a standard SR alloy block can handle more boost than an RB20 cast iron block? Like it or not, boost = torque. So the RB wins again, it can handle more boost therefore it CAN make more torque. This "SR's make more torque at lower rpms than RB's" is crap, any extra torque that an SR has is purely due to the tuning. Take a look at the stated torque outputs of the various models of SR's. The amount varies by more than 15% and the rpm by more than 20%, but they are all SR's. The difference is in how they are tuned, not that the SR design is somehow inherently superior. It's a self fulfilling prophecy. You can't rev SR 's higher, so you choose components (turbo size, cams, porting etc) and tuning that work within the rpm limits. Oh wow it makes more torque at 4,000 rpm. Dah, it has to, 'cause it won't rev. If I tuned an RB the same, it would make the same, But I don't have to, 'cause I CAN get the RB to rev withoit spending big bucks on the valve train. I could also get into rod stroke ratios, main and big end bearing speed at rpm, valve area, inertia mass etc etc. The bottom line is, for the same capacity, more cylinders = more horsepower. That's why F1 engines are V10's, not V8, or V6's or I4's. And nothing "shoots out of a corner" like an F1 car. That'll get the SR lovers all stirred up.............

So if I stick Carillo rods and JE pistons and Jun valve train in a SR, it's till an SR? What about if a stick a Jun 2.2 litre stroker crank in the SR, is it still an SR then? The differences (between RB and SR) are all about the number of cylinders, the block composition and the valve train actuation. And the RB20 is demonstrably superior on all counts when you are talking RPM and turbo charged power handling capacity. SR's are lighter and RB's are cheaper, but that's not the point of this discusion.

From my limited understanding of autos..... A separator plate adds restrictions (smaller orifices) to the oil flow where needed. It can also manipulate flow directions. But it can't remove restrictions. If the gearbox only needs restrictions added (to get the right shift performance) then there is no difference between a plate and a full replacement valve body. But if it is necessary to remove some restrictions and rerouting isn't possible, then a valve body replacement is necessary. It is my understanding that to get the best out of the RE4 transmission, a replacement valve body is needed. A spacer plate does an OK job, just not as good. My suggestion would be to ring MV and ask them exactly why their valve body is better than a plate. Hope that is of some help:cheers:

The cam cover outlets and the sump are pretty much under equal pressure, so no air flows when you are driving. The oil drain to the sump only works when the engine is turned off. You build up oil during the day driving around and it slowly drains into the sump when you stop (overnight is the best). So you have an empty catch can. The scourers separate the oil from the air, the air either flows out to atmosphere or back into the inlet of the engine. You can buy a small filter from the usual auto outlets (Auto One, Auto Pro, Auto Barn, Repco, SupaCheap etc). Some guys use plastic fuel filters, cheap and you just chuck them away when they get dirty. Hope that helps:cheers:

As long as it doesn't say "For Racing Use Only" we are OK. Usual load and speed ratings apply of course.

What's the spring rates?

Tyres?

Tyres?

Too easy...... The PCV valve fits into a rubber grommet in the RHS cam cover and it has a hose clamped over it that goes to the inlet plenum. I simply take it out of the cam cover, shorten (cut) the hose and clamp it closer to the inlet plenum. Then I clamp the hose from the catch can over the other end of the PCV valve, the end that used to be in the cam cover. I then insert a bolt of the appropriate size into the now empty grommet in the side of the cam cover to block it off, as I don't need it. Hope that helps:cheers: