Sydneykid

They come pre oiled, so you won;'t need any oil for 10,000 k's or so, until you clean it.

Clarification.... Tomei Poncams 256 for R33GTST as they have hydraulic followers Tomei Poncams 260 for R34GTT (Neo) as they have solid followers I would not use 260's in a non Neo RB25DET.

I have said this a few times before, but I will repeat it....... If you are peed off with Regency, STOP REGISTERING YOUR CARS IN SA. Rent a Post Office Box in any small town, just over the border in Vic. Get your rego renewal sent to the PO Box. Get the Post Office to redirect your PO Box mail to your house. While you are there tranfer the SA rego to Vic rego. Country rego transfers are simple and quick, not at all like big city rego transfers. Then Regency WILL NEVER BE ABLE TO DO ANYTHING ABOUT YOUR CAR. If enough people do it, the SA Govt will realise how much money Regency is costing them in lost rego revenue. PS, I know of at least one group of guys who do this (in another state) and they have a cruise once a year to get their rego inspections done. They share the cost of the PO Box and redirection, it's like $10 each that way.

The data source is one injector, it doesn't matter which one. So the "samples" will be supplied at 1/2 engine rpm, the IC is much faster than that. It will increase as the engine rpm rises, which is coincidentally just what you would want. Perhaps not "coincidentally" maybe the Sillycoon Chump thought about it.

Just looking at the circuit diagrams, I would say you can only have one plugged in at once as they use common pins. You may be able to switch the data streams over though, rather than physically unplug the Controller from one and plug it into the other.

Well, the theory is; It can't not hold boost (as long as the turbo is up to it of course) because it can completely stop any boost (airflow) reaching the wastegate actuator. This is because the boost control solenoid (pnuematically) sits in between the plenum and the wastegate actuator. Unlike most boost controllers (EBC of not) that bleed off air and lower the pressure that way. Put another way, Sillycoon Chump's design is in series with the wastegate actuator whereas most other EBC's are in parrallel. Spiking, is pretty much a factor of the electro mechanical response of the solenoid. Plus how fast the processor can interpret the results and send instructions to the solenoid. Once again Sillycoon Chump's design has an interesting advantage, it doesn't use boost to give feed back, it uses injector duration. This means the boost control processor is not waiting while airlfow is buffered though pipework to a MAP sensor. As soon as the injector cycle changes, it knows the airflow has changed. And that happens once for every two engine revolutions, that's 50 times per second at 6,000 rpm. That sort of response is physically impossible using airflow to drive a MAP sensor. What is really interesting is the ability to have 2 completely different boost maps with up to 128 load points in each. That doesn't mean simply "high" and "low" boost settings. What it means is I can have the same max boost, but have one boost map (say for wet weather) that brings the boost on slower. I can have lower boost as well if I want, but I don't have to. Pretty cool huh? I did a fair bit of research before I decided to give these a go, and they have some very interesting features. Looking forward to giving them a real world try out. PS; The interpolation (smoothing) algorythm between the 128 load points looks to be quite effective as well.

It sounds like you put the intercooler spray on and now you have a problem. So I would disconnect the intercooler spray electrically. You can leave it where it is mechanically. If that doesn't fix it, what did you do before that?

Watch out for 10% GST on the way in. Luckily no Import Duty from the US now, go the Free Trade Agreement.

Stageas ATTESSA'a are the same as R33 GTR's, they always have pressure in the hydraulic system. It is one of the reasons why the R33 GTR's are quicker into 4wd than R32 GTR's. So when you pull the fuse, you remove electrical power from the ATTESSA but there is still residual hydraulic pressure pushing the clutches together. Forget about wearing out the ATTESSA on the dyno, they just drive off the rollers. The drive shaft that you remove is the one linking the ATTESSA unit with the front diff. You do need to block the hole in the ATTEESA when you take out the driveshaft. I have not seen an ATTESSA controller that allows the residual pressure to be bled off. So I think they still would drive off the rollers. They quote 100% rear drive, but I haven't seen it. Best way.....use a 4wd dyno.

If you can't see the source of the rust, then it is likely to be an inside job. Like bubbles with intact paint over them. If it is rust you can see (as in yellow/orange) with no paint on it, then it is surface rust. Clean it up iwht w wire brush, undercoat and paint. Post up pictures if you can:cheers:

All the non standard stuff has to come off for compliancing anyway.

The usual symptom is the ecu cutting ignition when it thinks the auto gearbox is going to change gear.

Ahh no. Half a tank is 37 litres, that's 1.9 kilometres to the litre! Worst I see is 6 kilometres to the litre with 265 rwkw. Maybe it is just "new power syndrome" where the right foot always stays on the floor so the brain can experience the excileration. Maybe give it a few days for thje effect to wear off. If it is still 1.9 then maybe drop back and get the lambda sensor reconnected ('cause that's what usually gets left off) .

Yeh thanks! That's a good idea, except I have already soldered the plug onto the board. PS I am not really planning on permanently leaving it in the Stagea anyway. So I might not worry too much.

My Stagea was complied in Queensland and it got the full xray, sonic, on hoist, under car testing by the RTA before rego. Every single low volume import gets that in NSW. I asked the inspector how many they "catch" and he said never on low volume imports, but lots of local car rebirthing is attempted.

Easy, what you need is a "frequency clamp" in series with the speedo feed to the ECU. As the kph increases the pulsing frequency (from the sensor in the gearbox) goes up, when it gets above a certain frequency the ecu works that out as 180 kph and cuts power. You use the "clamp" to stop the frequency getting to that point, say 175 kph. Since all of the gear changing and other stuff is well and truly over by then, the auto box works fine. Fueltronics sell them, so do heaps of others. If you are OK with electronic kits Jaycar have this one;

That's 4 cylinder territory, so ~180 rwkw is their limit. RB's have 50% more injectors (6 versus 4) so I don't see any problem. In fact I have seen an RB25 make ~260rwkw on S15 injectors, so it is not only the theory that supports it. I am no SR expert, but my understanding was JDM S14 manuals were ~444 cc's (red'ish top) the same as S15 manuals. Autos and S13's are ~375cc's (purple'ish top). There is some debate over 444cc's versus 480 cc's, which I will try and resolve next week when I get a set to clean and flow test.

Around $1,200 is more like the plain bearing hi flow price. Around $1,800 is the ball bearing hi flow price. My preference is always ball bearing.

I was talking to a friend in Japan last week about RB20's and he was at a HKS drag meet last year where an RB20 powered R32GTST did a 9.9 at 139 mph on radials. It was a 2.4 litre with a T51 ball bearing turbo, not drastically lightened, road registered of course. Punch those numbers into the drag calculator and it says 575 to 600 bhp. That's pretty damn impressive. PS; he has pictures and will find out which workshop it was from.

I'll have to check the circuit diagram, but I was told by the Jaycar guys that the communication was 2 way and used a number of discreet connections. I took that to mean I couldn't combine any wiring and had to run 25 discreet links. JE used a flat cable I noticed in the test photos. Looked like the ribbon cable that I use to connect hard drives to mother boards in the PC. I'll find the photo scan it and stick it up over the weekend.

A good idea in theory. Adds a bit more leverage to the braking. Will also add some more feel as the disk (being larger in diameter) travels further with each wheel revolution. So it will be easier to modulate for best retardation. The Nissan 4 spots are good callipers, so they are well worth keeping. Something I was considering for the R32GTST a bit later on. It will also "fill up" the space behind the wheel for the appearance conscious.

A quick picture of the Jaycar Hand Controller on the ashtray lid, can still get to the power socket. Looks OK, easy to mount, bit of velcro on the ashtray lid, some on the back of the controller. It will then be low enough to allow the cup holder to function as normal. But when I add the RS232 cable..........the plug is nearly as big as the controller itself. There must be an RS232 flat cable, with a small plug, preferably black. So I can tuck it back behind the controller and in through the ashtray. I asked the Jaycar guys and they didn't have such a cable in their cattledog. Some of the computer experts out there may know of a cable that may be suitable.

Too easy........... For our S1, I paid $16K They sell in yards for $20K I keep it for 3 years and sell it for $10K (50% retained value) it cost me $6K to own for three years. For an S2 Cost $30K from a yard I keep it for 3 years and sell it for $20K (67% retained value) it cost me $10K to own for three years. I do $5K in mods to the S1, but they all transfer over to my new $16K S2 in 3 years. I kept all the standard bits to swap them back, most of stuff isn't going to wear out. Except shocks and Bilsteins are easily serviceable. Should I add interest on $30K compared to $16K? Either foregone or paid, it is the same result. PS; I used 67% on the S2, which is a very generous retained value. I suspect it might be closer to 55%, but even at 67%, the S1 still is better value.

Sydney, obviously.

I can organise a price comparison with Whiteline springs, they are already available. PS, you do need to be carefull with the rear height in particular. They are a waggon and when you want to carry stuff, you don't want the rear windscreen wiper dragging on the ground.