Sydneykid

As Glenn said, make sure all the stuff is there. If I was buying one retail I would (for example) demand a cargo cover, they are so expensive to buy if you don't get one with the car. They are 4wd so best to check the drive shafts and CV's, turn it in a tight circle a few times, both clockwise and anti clockwise in forward and reverse. This picks up the drive shaft issues. That said (like Skylines) Stageas have big drive train components, gearbox, diff drive shafts, wheel bearings etc. Stageas are used a lot in snowy area in Japan, so check for snow chain damage in the wheel arches. Mine had the usual in dash CD, radio, cassette plus a CD stacker in the boot. The CD in dash sKips badly, the stacker had no CD carrier so can't be used and the radio (even with a converter) is not so good. So I would suggest a good check of the sound system is in order. That's about it, I have been using ours everyday, 7 days per week for the last month and it runs like a clock, everything works everytime as I would expect it to. PS; My 2 local Subaru Forester GT owners hate me! :wassup:

Reduce lag? Changing the plenum will do nothing for turbo lag. If you are talking about "throttle response" then I think tou need to reread this; To work out the throttle response difference the calculations are easy; 2500 cc X 5000 rpm / 2 (4 stroke) at 1.3 bar = 135 litres per second So a saving of 1 litre represents less than 0.005 of a second That's not a lot of lag to save with reduced pipework. Then add in the extra volume of the Greddy plenum itself............. Honestly spend the money on cams or something that will actually make more "top end torque". When you have bought all of the real improvement parts, by all means get a Greddy plenum. They are not a bad thing, bit there is much better value for money power upgrades to be had.

Hi Gizmo and other readers; this is not a simple subject, there are lots of factors involved. That's why there are lots of opinions and plenty of different experiences. There are two things that cause the ceramic to part company with the shaft and find a home in the cat. The first is boost, or more correctly turning torque. The turbine (propelled by the exhaust gases) is trying the turn the compressor (resisted by the boost). The higher the boost the more torque is exerted on the shaft. The second is heat, the ceramic in the turbine is very good at resisting heat, but even ceramic has a limit. Noting that heat is not instantaneous, there is a build up over time (minutes not hours). I will have a go at writing out the factors; 1. The boost at the turbo and at the inlet valve are different. A good intercooler may only have 1 to 2 psi drop at (for example) under 1 bar. On the other hand I have seen 10 psi drop on a not so good intercooler at 1.5 bar. These increases in resistance are not linear, the resistance is OK up to a point (airflow) then it goes ballistic. For example 10 psi (boost at the inlet valve) might have 2 psi resistance (12 psi at the turbo) and 12 psi might have 6 psi resistance (18 psi at the turbo). The standard intercooler makes running more than 12 psi pretty much a waste of time. You don't really get any more power, some people like the bragging rights though ("my car runs more boost than yours"). It adds heat to the inlet air that lowers the engine's efficiency and also adds heat to the exhaust. Running 2 boost gauges, one at the turbo and one after the throttle body, the former will tell you what the turning torque really is. 2. The standard ECU makes running more than 10 psi a bit of a waste of time. Once the airflow gets up the ECU goes rich and retard (R&R) and the car actually makes less power. Note the word "airflow", boost is irrelevant. Always remember that boost is simply a measure of restriction to airflow. With a GTST intercooler and small exhaust I have seen R&R at 12 psi. With a GTR intercooler and a large exhaust I have seen it at 10 psi. Why? Because the airflow is higher at 10 psi since the intercooler and exhaust have removed the restriction. 3. ECU tune is very, very important to the whole equation. When the airflow gets up, the standard ECU is mapped to run the engine rich (way before it gets into R&R). Using a piggy back (SAFC, EManage, FCon etc) means you can lean the engine off and make more power and get rid of the flat spots. Using a full computer replacement (Power FC, Wolf, Motec, Autronic etc) gives a lot more tuning flexibility and none of the tuning compromises that you have to do with a piggy back. But (there is always a BUT), the leaning off (and maybe ignition timing optimisation) adds heat to the exhaust. Rich mixtures tend to cool the turbine, it is one of the reasons for the R&R strategy. 4. The sole object in increasing boost is to make more power. In my case that's average power, not necessarily max power. If the engine makes more power at 10 psi, then I don't run it at 12 psi. The tuning conundrum, you can decrease the boost and lean off the mixtures, advance the ignition timing and make more power. On the other hand, you can increase the boost, richen up the mixtures, retard the ignition timing and make more power. This is were a good tuner (not me) makes all the difference. So the factors break down as; turning torque (TT) + heat (H) + Time (T)= ceramic in cat (CIC). In order to work out TT (boost if you like) you have to know the values for H and T. I don't think there is much doubt that 4-5 minutes on the circuit can cause CIC, there are enough examples to give substance to that hypothesis. What I have seen a few times lately is the effect of similar amounts of time with hard running on the street. Recently I used the example of the run up Mooney Mooney that caused CIC. H is easily measured with an exhaust gas temperature gauge (EGT), so if you have one you can "back off" when the temps get too high, thus avoiding CIC. There are therefore 3 answers; Run whatever boost you like for as long as you want, keeping in mind to tune the car for the highest power output. Have 2 boost gauges and carefully watch the boost at the turbo, also run an EGT gauge and back off when the temp gets too high. OR Run 12 psi, but don’t run hard for long. OR Run 10 psi and feel relatively safe that you won’t get CIC. Hope that makes some sense:cheers:

The standard ecu does not like the additional airflow, it adds a bit of fuel and retards the ignition timing. So you end up with less. Once the Power FC is in you will find a big difference in both max and average power.

Are you changing the stabiliser bar in an attempt to fix the height difference? Just undo one link, that will tell you if the bar is bent (most unusual) and causing the height difference. The front heights are 381 (left) and 352 (right), what are the rear heights?

Caster is "camber" when you turn the wheels, the outside wheel goes negative camber and the inside wheel goes positive camber. So you want as much as you can get. Generally speaking caster is what makes the car turn in, camber is what keeps it turning. To add caster you pull the bottom of the wheel forward or the top of the wheel backwards. Hence caster rods are connected to the lower control arm (bottom of thew wheel). Shorten them for more caster. I wouldn't have 4 degrees negative camber on a road car, 1 degree is plenty. Add that to say 8 degrees of caster and you have a good handling start.

Not me, the "richness" is only for a tenth of second. Just enough tot stuff up the return to idle, but not really very much compared to the fuel you use in normal driving.

Ice Performance, but really anyone can tune as SAFC. It ain't that hard.

Bore increase from 86 mm to 87.5 mm makes 3,068cc's.

Forget about GAINS, you are looking at LOSSES. Have a read..... Some info on the RB20 with RB26 inlet as per Zoom Magazine edition 64 and edition 62; This picture shows the RB26 plenum being test fitted up to the cut and welded RB20 inlet. The throttle bodies go between the RB26 plenum and the modified (shortened) RB20 inlet but are not shown in this photo. This is a picture of the RB26 plenum, RB26 throttle bodies and RB20 shortened inlet on the RB20. Using a 120 degree bend at the throttle body reduces the difference in intercooler pipework by more than 50%, to a bit less than 1 litre using 75 mm pipework. To work out the throttle response difference the calculations are easy; 2500 cc X 5000 rpm / 2 (4 stroke) at 1.3 bar = 135 litres per second So a saving of 1 litre represents less than 0.005 of a second That's not a lot of lag to save with reduced pipework. So using an RB26 plenum and throttle bodies on anything other than an RB26 is not a good idea in my opinion. Especially when you consider the potential to loose throttle response due to poor airflow distribution is far greater than any minute shortening of the inlet pipework. My 20 cents worth:cheers:

Maybe it has an RB26 in it. Or an RB26 cylinder head. Or maybe it was done so they could get the extra throttle response from the multiple throttle bodies. Drifters need throttle response much more than they need excessive power, particularly long wheelbase heavy sedans. One thing is for sure, there is far more to it than just the plenum.

on an RB26, YES with the multiple throttle bodies. on an RB25, NO...........

Hi Justin ,I would add to your list; ARP rod bolts (if you are using the standard rods) ARP head studs ARP main bearing studs PS; go the 2530s' my all time favourite turbo for 2.6 litres.

13 Ohms:cheers:

The standard R32 GTST tacho reads a bit high, I have seen 8,250 rpm before the rev limiter cuts in. So I suspect 7,750 rpm is probably close.

You can do it with an SAFC but is it is very tricky and doesn't always work. This is because you have no control over ignition timing and that helps to hold the idle. Power FC's have adjustable idle speed as well, so you can add a few rpm which helps.

Do search for heavens sake, this question has been asked soooooo many times. F = Front M = Mount I = Inter C = cooler

Loose intercooler pipe would be my guess, backfire then black smoke is the usual sympton. It is not actually a "backfire" it is the sound of the air eacaping rapidly.

Same as RB25DET:cheers:

My suggestion is RB31DET:cheers:

Just in case the Stagea guys missed it, here is a post that I made elsewhere a couple of days ago on fuel pumps........ You need to be careful when selecting Walbro pumps. As you can see from the attached, the GSS341 is rated at 255 lph, that's at zero boost and at 13.5 volts. If you install one in tank with the standard Skyline wiring it will run at 12 volts, that's 215 lph. Then add some boost, say 20 psi (1.35 bar) and they are down to 180 lph. Bosh pumps on the other hand are rated at 73.5 psi, that's a rail pressure of say 40 psi plus 33.5 psi (2.3 bar) boost. That is why, generally speaking, Bosch pumps are physically larger, they need to be to provide the pumping torque at their high rated pressures. If you are looking at running high'ish boost or upping the rail pressure, then this feature is more likely to appeal. The same guys that tested the Walbro pumps also tested a number of Nissan pumps. If you take a look at the following graph you can see that a standard R33 GTR fuel pump out flows the Walbro GSS341 at 13.5 volts and 30 psi by about 10%. The standard Z32 fuel pump is 5% better than the GSS341 (the standard R32 GTR fuel pump is basically the same as the Z32). Hope that is of some use.

There is absolutely no doubt that the circumference of the tyres should be very close to the same front and rear. I say "very close" because there has to be some allowance for wear, otherwise it would be necessary to buy 4 tyres all at once, alll of the time. This applies equally to cars with LSD's, the tyres on the same axle should have the same circumference. But it don't think the width of the tyres makes any difference to the ATTESSA system. Nor do I think wheel offsett is relevant either. It is worth noting that the same size tyre from different tyre manufacturers can have differing circumferences ie; a 245/40/17 from Yokohama is different to a 245/40/17 from Hancook.

Pardon me if I am brutally frank.............. #5 doesn't make the car go any faster, it just adds weight, throw it away. #6 doesn't make the car go any faster, it just adds weight, throw it away. #8 If you don't have a heat shield and a decent ambient air feed, throw it away too and use the standard airbox with a Pipercross panel filter. Let's examin your competition, a 300 KW Coommondoor or 290 kw GT Foulcan make around 220 rwkw and weigh a bit over 1600 kgs. Thats around 7.3 kgs for every 1rwkw. An XR6T makes around 180 rwkw, that's around 8.6 kgs for every 1rwkw. A VL Commondoor with 350 hp, I assume that's bhp, that's 210 rwkw and around 6.4 kgs for every 1rwkw. So to be faster than them you need around 220 - 230 rwkw. For 230 rwkw I would add to your list; A GCG Ball Bearing Hi flow as Paul suggested (that list looks VERY familiar Paul) (www.gcg.com.au) A pair of Tomei 256 Poncams as Paul suggested (www.hioctaneracing.com.au) Don't worry about an adj exhaust camshaft pulley, the Tomei cams don't need it A set of (six) 200SX S14/15 SR20DET 480 cc injectors (they are side feed like the RB25DET). Try the Silvia forums, they usually have a couple of sets (you will need 1.5 sets of 4) GTR injectors are top feed and won't fit, well not without extensive/expensive mods A GTR Fuel pump in tank to replace the GTST pump Tuning, tuning, tuning of your SAFC For the gearbox I would go with an upgraded valve body and a decent transmission coooler (take a look in the Stagea section for the details). For your required power level you won't need to upgrade the torque converter. Suspension upgrade is essential, take a look in the Suspension section for details. Stick with a localy specified setup (www.whiteline.com.au). The Jap ones will be too stiff for your local roads. A decent set of brake pads is a must, probably rotors as well (www.dba.com.au). Stay with 17" wheels and tyres, 18" don't have enough sidewall to soak up the roads you drive on. MOST IMPORTANTLY, get yourself along to an Advanced Driver Training Course, they have good ones at Morgan Park. Lastly (at 17) please try and stay alive, we have lost far too many Skylines recently. Hope that helps:cheers:

So is the implementation date of the Free Trade Ageement 1st January 2005, ie; two weeks ago?

Hi guys, I have heard this stuff about "damaging suspension because of different wheel offsets" for years. But I have never seen any evidence of it, so it warrants some investigation..... The basis of this "damaging" claim is the that the centre of contact of the tyre is in a different position to that intended by the designer of the car. So the the first thing to do is find out all of the different ofsets of wheels used with that suspension system. That means what are all of the standard offssets for GTS, GTST, GTR, GTS4 in each model range and for all std wheel sizes, 15" 16 " 17" etc. Looking at the R33 standard offsets I have seen, I can say 30 mm to 42 mm was available. Add the 6 mm tolerance to that and you have 24 mm to 48 mm. Then we have the issue of camber, if I add negative camber I move the contact patch inwards. This means I can run wheels with more positive offset. A quick measurement shows about 3 mm for 1 degree negative, so that means I can go to 51 mm offset if I run 1.5 degrees negative (my usual road amount). Now we have caster, if I add 2 degrees of positive caster that means I have say another 2 degrees of negative camber on the outside wheel when I am going around corners. That means another 6 mm of offset, so I can go to 57 mm offset if I run that extra caster. Now I could get into scrub radius and SAI, but I think I have made the point. If the wheel fits inside the standard guard and doesn't rub on anything, I don't believe for one instant it would cause one micron of extra suspension wear. Heavier wheels, lower profile tyres, stiffer springs, stickier tyres, upgraded stabiliser bars. more camber, more caster etc etc would have a much larger effect than wheel offset. My 20 cents worth:cheers: