Sydneykid

Hi guys, having built quite a few electronics kits over the years I have found the Silicone Chip ones can be relied upon to do exactly what they are designed to do. I am not a Julian Edger fan, but he did a lot of research and real world testing on these items. So I have a fair bit of faith that they will do as specified on the Stagea. Over the Xmas break I am building; the boost controller $80 the hand controller $60 the fuel adjuster $80 For a total cost of $220 (around half what an SAFC costs) I get to program, control and monitor, too good a deal to dismiss lightly. I will publish the results (inc dyno sheets) when all is finished. Merry Xmas to all:cheers:

The easiaest way to make an assessment of their firmness is the spring rate. If there was any logic used in the chosen shock rebound valving it will be matched to the spring rates. So if you know the spring rates, then the shock rates are pretty obvious.

Standard R33 GTR intercooler on ours, I made the pipe work, Mick (micksmetalcraft) welded it.

Hi Jash, if you still have the standard bar, then measure across the inside of the U bend and compare it with the Whiteline bar. If it is not within 5 mm then it won't fit, so give Whiteline a call on 02 9603 0111 and they will send you a replacement. You can usually give the wrong one to the same courier to take back. I think what happens is the Stages subframe is slightly narrower and when the jig is set up, the outside measurments are used instead of the inside. Since the bars are thicker that means the U bend is too small. Hope that helps:cheers:

Centreline (Chris) or Traction Tyres (Andrew).

The Std ECU deals with the changes in temperature:cheers:

The first number is the number of teeth on the crown wheel. The second number is the number of teeth on the pinion, so.......... 48 divided by 11 = 4.363636364 37 divided by 9 = 4.111111111 Hope that helps

Simple, bigger turbo, more boost, longer duration cams, higher compression ratio, more rpm, shorter gears, lower diff ratio, more engine capacity (3.1 litres is good), trumpet on the BOV, make that two trumpets, no mufflers, no cat .............. If all else fails get a BIG stereo, record the engine noise on the dyno and play it back when the car is idling along. :wassup:

I like women in uniform:wassup: They have handcuffs and clubs:spank:

OK I give up. If the fuel pumps has "gone to shit" then it pumps less fuel, so you would get better fuel economy. :confused:

No:cheers:

Have a read of this article then ask any questions you may have; http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles/HPI_1..._Skyline01a.htm

R32/33/34 Skylines are double wishbone so adjustable shock tops are useless. Spherical bearings are used on race cars to remove the small movement that the rubber top mounts allow. This means the shocks see all of the minute movements up and down and thus can be adjusted to maximise the tyre contact and improve the lap times. Obviously you need at least quad adjustable shocks (bump and rebound + high and low frequency) to take advantage of this. Spherical bearings wear very quickly, need greasing often and knock like crazy when they do wear. They also add a lot to the NVH as there is no rubber to soak it up. Not a good idea for a road car.

Nope, I am not saying that. What I am saying is to buy R32/33 GTR front shocks. I am using the standard springs in mine (both front and rear). With the Whiteline stabiliser bars controlling the roll and the circlip adjustable lower spring platforms on the Bilsteins giving me the right height, I believe the standard springs are the best choice.

R32/33 GTR shocks in the Stagea front are OK, but the rear needs R33GTST. GTR shocks have the spring seats lower down than GTST/GTS4. So the spring heights are not comparable.

The "line through the last two figures" makes it imposssible for me to comment.

Ouch, bad luck Roy, which black cat did you run over while driving under a ladder on Friday the 13th? Tip, wash the white stuff off real fast, it makes a mess of all sorts of plastic and painted things. I think you need a GTR bonnet and grill, might even find a silver one that doesn't need painting. Now I know why I like low/rear mount turbos:cheers:

Hi JAY-R32, you realy need to know something about compressor maps or have complete trust in your turbo supplier, have discussed your requirements with them and agreed on the selection. If you want to select turbos yourself. buy them site unseen from people you have never met, then I strongly suggest you get a hold of one (or more) of the turbo books around. I prefer Corky Bell's books but there are others. My comments on the 2 compressor maps you have attached; * Personally I wouldn't touch the GT28RS, it has a very complex surge line between boost of 1.2 and 1.8 bar (pressure ratio 2.2 and 2.8). This is where your engine will mostly operate. At that boost, the power levels 145 bhp and 260 bhp (13 lbs per minute to 23 lbs per minute) are also very common transient power levels. * In my opinion the GT25R simply doesn't produce enough airlfow to satisfy your requirements, its top airflow of 26 lbs will mean it won't make any more power than a 2530. The surge line is much more user friendly than the GT28RS and it does produce good airflow at low boost levels. My suggestion is to keep looking, I don't think either compressor is suitable.

My experience has been that you can get enough fuel out of it with an SAFC (or similar). It's tight and you have to compromise on the ignition timing, but that's normal.

Hi Jay, I strongly suggest you have a look at the T25 compressor map, that should help you decide if a pair is the right way to go for your purposes.

Yes and it varies a lot The voltage ramps are not parrallel between different AFM's ie; you can't just add/subtract say 10% and expect all the A/F ratios to be OK. I have had to add nothing at low rpm's, take a bit out at mid rpm's and add a lot at high rpms. You need to tune, it will take less than half an hour on the dyno for someone wiht any decent tuning knowledge.

Take a look at my pictures of the Whiteline bar and the standard bar, on the previous page. Where abouts is it "35 mm out"? If it is at the ends of the arms the links are, have you put the links on the outside or the inside of the arm? Mine was a tight fit where the D bushes go around the bar, the U bend in the Whiteline bar was a little closer together then the standard bar.

Hi J, was the standard Stagea intercooler the same as a R33GTST or R34GTT?

I thought Stageas where the same as GTS4's, and the autos are different. Best to count the rotations of the drive shafts versus the input shaft. That will tell you the ratio and only take a few minutes.

Looking at the dyno graph (particularly the A/F ratios) it's a pretty good job. Personally I don't mind paying a bit extra for a proper result. PS; not only did he do a go job tuning but it also shows how good the algorithm in the SAFC is for extrapolating between the load points. Who needs more load points when it is that good. :aroused: