Sydneykid

You have to be able to get to the pump to service it. There must be a way. As for the Stagea tank being the same as the R32 tank, my Stagea tank is molded plastic and the R32 tank is fabricated steel.

The standard airfilter box gets its ambient air via the snorkel from in front of the radiator. The under bonnet is curved to allow this ambient (unheated) air into the snorkel. If you put an air deflector on, then there is nowhere for the snorkel to get its air, the air deflector closes the space that it breathes from. To overcome this I have fabricated a scoop that picks up ambient air and directs it through the air deflector and at the snorkel mouth. This should be even better than standard when moving, as the air will be forced into the scoop and thus into the mouth of the snorkel. It's a win win. I have seen quite a few RB25DET PODs that use the standard snorkel pointing at the POD. Sometimes there is heat shield with a hole cut in it for the snorkel. This system (on the Stagea) of having a scoop to the snorkel mouth would work OK in that situation as well. Hope that helps:cheers:

The appeal to me of a good body kit is it looks standard quality. That is neither easy nor cheap to achieve.

Would you like one?

My understanding is that, since anodising changes the surface colour of aluminium, any scratches that are in the original surface will still be visible through the anodising. So I could paint it, several coats would fill the scratches and it would like OK. Or, since this was the test one, I could just make another one now that I have the dimensions perfect. I would use pvc coated sheet this time so no marks from the workings. I don't know until I put it on how it will look, then I will decide.

The last steps before I fit it. First, pop rivet the sides to the scoop, then I polished it with Scotchbright to help hide the scratches; I just have to drill the mounting holes and hopefully the next pictures of it will be when it is fitted to the Stagea.

What fork pivot ball did you use?

Power FC doesn't forget:cheers:

I have no idea what a "traction arm" is, but R32/33/34's all have adjustable toe standard.

Hi RSX84, haven't we been through this once already? Tell the auto electrician to test it this way; ECU pin ----->multimeter------>(+) supply They will get a signal this way What they are doing now is; ECU pin ----->multimeter------>(-) earth That is wrong and they will never get a signal that way. I have never ever found a Skyline ECU that has no rpm/tacho output, that always works.

Hi Zane, boost is pretty much irrelevant, we run 1.4 bar on Optimax all day every day, the tuning enables that. The race car runs 1.6 bar, also on Optimax. It's all down to the tuning, if your mechanic can't tune your car to run 13psi on Optimax/Ultimate/S8000 then I suggest you find another mechanic.

As far as I know the Whiteline adjustable bars are replacements for the original, so you need to use the standard brackets and links on the front. On the rear you only need use the standard brackets as the bar comes with its own links. Be careful with GTR stabiliser bar sizes as they are hollow and therefore may not be as much of an upgrade as you expect. Hope that helps:cheers:

OK Lithium, that fills in the gaps, it is always easier to make suggestions when you know the whole story. The 12 psi wastegate actuator spring may well be too high. You really should refer to your compressor map as it depends on the airflow that turbo develops at 12 psi. I have a number of T04E maps, what trim is the compressor? I have 40, 46, 50, 54, 57 and 60.

GCG Ball Bearing high flow, 265 rwkw and more power EVERYWHERE than standard:cheers:

500 bhp = 45 lbs per minute of airflow 45 lbs per minute of airflow= 45 mm You are not going to get 500 bhp with 1.1 bar out of a RB25DET, I suspect something like 1.6 bar would be more like it So 45 / 1.6 X 1.4 = 39.4 mm A 40 mm wastegate would be OK 400 bhp = 36 lbs per minute of airflow 36 lbs per minute of airflow= 36 mm I suspect something like 1.3 bar would be the boost required to make that power So 36 / 1.3 X 1.4 = 38.8 mm A 40 mm wastegate would be OK As for the wastegate actuator spring rate, I wouldn't go below 12 psi as it gives much better boost control when the boost controller (whatever type) has less work to do, to fill the gap between the target boost and the spring rate. You should check the compressor map for your turbo to make sure my guesses for power and boost are accurate. Hope that helps:cheers:

I got my Stagea Geenslip though NRMA several months ago, I did it online.

Ours has tweeters in the A pillars, work well there.

I have a number of cutting devices. I mostly used the band saw on this, for closed holes I used the jig saw, too lazy to use the hacksaw.

Yep thye are cleanable and reoilable. I have one that is 5 years old and has bee ncleaned and reoiled 15-20 times.

I haven't decided what to do. I would normally use the plastic coated aluminium sheet, so it doesn't get marked while you work. Then I would simply peal it off and it would polish up nice. This one is a bit marked, I might paint it, or stick some carbon film on it, or I might polish it with a pattern, I don't realy know yet:cheers:

Hi pnblight, why do the WA guys start their dyno graphs at 100 kph plus? The car has to start from 0 kph, it helps when you know what power it has where. Sure it makes the power graph LOOK impressive, nice and fat, but it robs us information soaks of the full story. So how about a full graph? Pleeeeease:cheers:

I think I have seen a 9 somewhere.....

Ok did a quick test measure, cut out and bent the scoop for the air inlet to the standard snorkel...... The next step is to put some sides on the scoop, I will be using some right angle aluminium and then rivet it to the scoop. More pictures tomorrow:cheers:

Hi guys, a little progress, this is the cut out alloy deflector. It is 2mm thick, which is a bit much. Around 1.5 mm would have been OK, but I didn't have a piece large enough. What's a few grams extra weight here or there compared to the weight of a Stagea? The next step is a test fitting on the Stagea, which I will do this afternoon. Then I can cut out and bend the air feed (scoop) for the air filter inlet. I will post up some picures of that later on:cheers:

Me, I'm heading out the door to the workshop to finish making the Stagea air deflector. Doing work on the car is much more rewarding.