Sydneykid

Hi Roy, good point, 119 mph indicates a power output around 240 rwkw (~320rwhp) in an R33GTST/R34GTT. I can think of 4 or 5 cars with that sort of power that have run that TS... 2rismo 117 mph with 300 rwhp Ben 120 mph with 328 rwhp Doughboy 123 mph with 347 rwhp Got Boost 121 mph with 375 rwhp BU5TER 128 mph with 429 rwhp So with "511 rwhp" (that's the title of this thread) 130 mph should be a breeze. Boosted Zed (admittedly not an R33/34, but still a reasonable comparison) did 130 mph with 517 rwhp. So, as I have posted previously, 130 mph is the target.

A Skyline example, I have a set that has done over 40,000 ks in an R32 GTR. A non Skyline example has done over 100,000 k's on the poly bushes in the front inner uppers of a double wishbone design. It was the old Foulcan tow car we had before the Stagea arrived. The bushes themselves are quite cheap, the labour cost little more. But after you have changed the sphericals several times, I don't think that matters much.

Sometimes not a good idea as the crank slaps the oil on braking into left handers. It depends on how much G force your car is capable of generating.

Simple, juts remeber to adjust the arms to the same length as the standard arms. That way it will have the same settings as it does now and won't hurt to drive it around for a few days.

Hi Guilty, personally my next move would be to a tunable ECU. You get rid of the speed limiter, the boost cut, rich and retard engine protection, the fuel economy improves noticeably and you get more power at the same time. There isn't anything else I know of that can do that much at the current prices. Power FC's used to cost twice what they do now, then it was a harder decision. Now I always do it very early in the upgrade path. I buy new Power FC Boost Control Kits from Nengun. They do come up used on the forum occasionally, guys who set them up wrong sell them. Maybe I should let the rumours continue about them being crap, that way I will get lots of cheap ones from people who believe the rumours. The WRX boys are a good source, they always wire them up using the standard wiring, and then wonder why they don't work properly. They hear the rumours, believe the rumours and sell them believing the crap flying around that they don't work on WRX's. One day I will learn to keep quiet about this sort of stuff, I used to be able to get RB20 wastegate actuators easily and cheaply. Now everyone knows, I can't find them anymore. I adjust the power levels with my right foot, if I don't want to go fast I don't push it down so far. Adjustable boost levels are a waste of oxygen for me, but if you must, you can easily do it on the Commander. I just can't stand the thought of "can we run that race again please, I forgot to turn the boost up". Yeh right. Hope that helps:cheers:

That's because there is no compromise setting. * Road, circuit and drift all need lots of caster on the front, as much as you can get. It really helps with the turn in. So that's OK for all three * Circuit and drift need lots of negative camber on the front, around 3 degrees is a good place to start. Then use the pyrometer to optimise for each circuit. But on the road you will be replacing the front tyres very quickly. * For circuit and drift a little front toe out is sometimes necessary, to improve the mid corner control. But on the road the tramlining will drive you crazy. * For circuit around 1.5 degrees negative on the rear is a good place to start. Then use the pyrometer to optimise for each circuit. But on the road you will be replacing the rear tyres fairly quickly. For drift you don't want too much rear grip, so around zero camber is a good place to start. * For circuit use zero rear toe is where I would start, for drift a little toe out will help the turn in rear instabiity so you can get the tail out easily. On the road a little toe in best for stability under braking, over bumps and in the wet. If you are serious about doing it right, you should get a camber gauge and learn how to adjust the camber yourself. You will be changing wheels I assume, so adjusting the camber is easy while you have them off. I would also suggest a set of adjustable stabiliser bars, you can adjust them while the wheels are off as well. Lots of rear anti roll for drift, not so much for circuit and lots less for road. Then use the front bar adjustment to tune the handling balance. Less anti roll for drift then road or circuit. If you are doing any drags I would suggest a softer pair of rear spings will help the times a lot. They will also be OK for the road but you will need a severely high rate in the rear for drift, with something in between for circuit. Hope that helps:cheers:

Ask the supplier for a set of seals, some manufacturers have them. The look like litte cups that fit over the spherical bearings and keep the dirt out and the grease in. They obviously have a hole in them for the bolt to go though and you need a pair for each bearing, one each side. They can be plastic or alloy. The sphericals may have threaded holes in the side for grease nipples, so you can apply grease with a grease gun at pressure from the inside out. This squeezes any dirt to the outside which you can then wipe off. Ask if they have grease nipples as an option. With both dust covers and internal greasing you might get 10,000k's out of them before the sphericals need replacing. Separately purchased, the sphericals will cost more than the arms, most people just buy new arms when they start knocking. The Japanese manufacturers sometimes use unique sphericals, so you have no choice but to buy complete arms. Hope that helps:cheers:

I have no experience with the standard airbox over 265 rwkw, but it made no real difference when I tried no filter or airbox at all on the dyno. Somewhere over that it wil be a noticeable restriction, but I have no evidence of where the limit is. Hope that answered the question:cheers:

I have nothing to sell, I don't run/own/work in a retail workshop, I have no need for people coming to me to work on their road car. We race against other race teams, obviously they have their secrets and we have ours. This competition is our business, winning is what we are trying to achieve. I think you are drawing a long bow in comparing a closed shop race team with a full on retail outlet trying to attract customers. That said, whenever I have made a claim I have backed it with sufficient information for readers to make their own judgement. I generally include the basic calculations and formulas.

Hi guys, Performance Metalcraft do a good sump, wings baffles and one way doors. Works a charm. PS; I have had oil surge in an RB26, RB20 and RB30 so I see no reason why an RB25 would be any different.

Pfitzner make one too, costs around $7K. If I remember rightly Theo uses one of theirs as well. If I ever break the RB25DET gearbox I will be sending it down to them.

Standard airbox with a Pipercross panel filter. We found the alloy inlet pipe from the AFM to the turbo was a good idea. I also made up an air deflector (radiator to grill) that has a scoop for supplying extra air to the standard airbox snorkel. I am making one for the Stagea now, keep an eye out on the Stage section as I will post up the photos shortly. PS; I have a Pipercross POD, it's a whopper, going on the RB31DET. It has a substantial cold air feed and a heat shield. I think the 400+ rwkw would be too much for the standard airbox.

Payless will adjust the toe and send you on your way. Pedders should (SHOULD) adjust the camber, caster and toe. If you are in Sydney, then take it to Heasmans, StGeorge Steering, or East Coast they WILL adjust the camber, caster and toe. And check out all the suspension components at the same time. You do get what you pay for, if you go to the right place.

Sorry gotta dissagree, the Boost Control Kit works perfectly on our cars, 4 of which now use them (2 X GTR's, 1 X GTT & 1 X GTST). It has exactly the same solenoid as the Apexi AVCR so that is hardly likely to be an issue. I have had a couple of people complain about the BCK, but both times it has been set up. And that happens to all electronic boost controllers.

The arms have non greasable spherical bushes. On Australian roads with the bumps and dirt, they don't last very long and the knocking will drive you crazy.

The output from the Power FC to the Auto ECU is less than 1/2 of the problem. The main issue is the Power FC does not have any programming for ignition retard on gearchanges, like the standard ECU does. Speaking to the ECU gurus, they tell me that there is many times more lines of code in the auto shift logic program than there is in the fuel and ignition programming added together. And you can't fix that, well I can't anyway.

As I have previously posted, I had a guy tell me his R33 GTST auto with aftermarket ECU was perfect. I got him to bring it over and took it for a drive, my opinion was it was CRAP. It hunted between gearchanges, was clunky, didn't kick down very fast, flared on upchanges and jerked badly on down changes etc etc. I took him for a ride in one with an SAFC only, which made similar power to his, and he changed his mind. One man's food is another man's poison:cheers:

Yes it does, but the wiring is slightly different. Let me know when you have one and I will send some pictures and instructions.

Shouldn't this thread be in the suspension section?

I don't know about your auto, but my Stagea changes gear at 1,000 sometimes, 2,000 rpm somtimes, 3,000 sometimes etc depending on the load. the throttle position etc. It changes both up and down at all rpm's, it would be lucky to change gear once in 1,000 times at 7,000 rpm. That's why I need the basic shift logic to be working, so that i's good all the time.

Skylines have adjustable camber on the rear, standard. The range of adjustment is quite small though. Usually not enough to remove enough negative camber after you lower them. So Whiteline have adjustable (eccentric) polyurethane bushes, one set is usually enough, they go on the inner joint of the upper arm. Sometimes you need 2 sets, they go on the outer joint where the upper arm joins the upright. The rule is to take as much negative out with the standard adjuster and see how much more is needed. If it is more than 1.5 degrees, then you need 2 sets of polyurethane bushes. Hope that helps.

The ECU retards the ignition on gearchanges to smooth out the change and take load (torque) off the gearbox while it changes ratios. This helps the gearbox last longer. If the logic for retarding the ignition gets screwed with, the upchanges become harsher (clunky) and you will get some flairing (rpm increase) during the upchange. Down change (kick down) is also harsher (jerky) and sudden. There should be no change in the rpm that gearchanges happen, either up or down. The gearbox oil temperature will increqase as well and it will need changing more often and when you do change it it will smell like burnt toast. In theory the SITC should be OK. If you set the SITC to advance the ignition say 2 degrees at the shift rpm, the ECU will still retard the igntion the same number of degrees. It will just start 2 degrees more advanced and during the retard (gearchange) it will still be 2 degrees more advanced. This should be OK, but I have never personally tried am SITC on an auto. They work OK on manuals within the limits of their small number of load points (usuallly 5). The algorithm between those points is not teribly sophisticated compared to the later SAFC's which have great algorithms. The EManage and similar later generation ignition timing changers, don't work like the SITC. They actually change the ignitiom timing to a programmed point, not move it a certain number of degrees like an SITC. Hope that helps:cheers:

While I can see where you are coming from, personally I like RB20's, if I spend $4K on an RB30DET I'll run mid 11's in an R32GTST. This is my budget, before you ask, yes I did it and the car has been doing it for 4 years. RB30E complete $400, sold the SOHC head for $500. So bottom end cost -$100 Full standard rebuild $1200 Used T04 $600 RB20DET exhaust manifold $50 RB25DE (non VVT) complete $800, sold bottom end for $600, So top end cost $200 R32 GTR Intercooler $500 Rechip STD computer $600 RX7S5T injectors $260 Used Jasma 3" exhaust $400 Mild steel split dump, no cat $300 GTR fuel pump $150 Total = $4,160 Result = 475 bhp on the engine dyno Time = 11.6 at 124 mph The extra capacity makes it so much easier to do the times, the RB20 (yes I still have one) is so much harder to get of the line than the RB30. PS; It did need a good clutch though. but I notice you didn't inlcude one in your list either.

It will be interesting to see how the SITC goes with the automatic. Whether it screws with the gear change logic.

I have avoided a direct face off up to now, but this one is TOOOOO much. It was a HUB DYNO The car did'nt have the rear wheels on it They took them off to mount the dyno cells to the hubs If it had no rear wheels on it, it can't make RWHP R= Rear W= Wheel HP= Horsewpower The post is WRONG, it should read RHHP R= Rear H= Hub HP= Horsewpower Other than that I have no problems:cheers: PS, well I suspect that Tristan himself didn't make 511rhhp, it was actually Tristan's car.