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Sydneykid

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Everything posted by Sydneykid

  1. Next project on the Stagea is to make up an air deflector to go between the grill and the top of the radiator support panel. At the same time I want to make up a scoop to make sure the standard inlet to the air filter gets enough ambient air to feed the engine. It will bolt up to the radiator support panel and fit into the standard slot in the top of the Stagea grill. First job was to make up a rough cardboard template, picture follows; Then I will cut the 2mm aluminium sheet to the shape of the template. I will make it out of 2mm for a bit of extra rigidity, as it will only be supported/bolted at the rear and slot into the grill at the front. More next installment:cheers:
  2. How's the blow by out of the cam covers? Checked the PCV valve? That would be where I would start.
  3. How's the blow by out of the cam covers?
  4. Hmmm, cam covers off, then it makes noise.....sounds like the PCV valve or the cam cover breather pipes are not connected properly. That would be my first guess.
  5. Where the hell are you being charged $12.50 per litre? :headspin:
  6. When I first got our Stagea I was a bit concerned at the slow cranking. I had asked the compliance worksop to fit a new battery to it, but they had it checked and it was pretty new and in good condition. I had our autoelec guru check it out and he said the same, battery perfect and alternator AOK. But it still cranked a bit slow for my liking. I didn't fancy having to push a 1650kg waggon to 40kph to get it started, especially with the trailer and race car behind it. So I popped down to my local battery shop and tried to get a bigger battery, one with a bit more than 380 CCA (cold cranking amps). Bad news, because of the small posts that was as big as I could get. OK, so I have to change the terminals on the wiring harness, and fit a larger bracket. Armed with 600 CCA battery (that's a bit more like it), new terminals and a new plastic bracket, I heeded off home to fit it up. It was actually a pretty easy job. I simply cut off the round bits of the standard terminals and bolted the exposed metal bit to the new terminals. The Stagea comes std with 2 holes for the battery bracket on the inner guard, I used the one for the larger battery. The standard front threaded rod (with the hook at bottom) needed to be shortened with the hack saw so the bonnet didn't hit it when closed. The standard rear threaded rod (with the hook at bottom) was OK and needed no mods. The only real trick was the standard extra wiring on the positive terminal. I simply bolted the bracket onto the side of the new terminal and trimmed the new red cover to suite. The picture shows it better than words can. Tools needed, 10 mm ring spanner, snips, 10 mm socket and a hack saw. Here is a picture of the new terminals, and the new covers (black and red) Here is a picture of the batery in place with the new plastic bracket. Hope that is of some help:cheers:
  7. Hi Josh, you have lowered the car below that which Apexi designed the coils to handle. The measurement from the centre of the wheel to the guard verticaly should be not less than 345mm.
  8. In a 7,000 rpm big block I would use C16, 2 valves per cylinder, push rod, wedge head. But in a 9,000 rpm RB,4 valves per cylinder, DOHC, hemi combustion chamber, with squish zones, I don't think so. The burn rate is too slow, the lead is hell on everything (including my brain). If you must use leaded fuel then I would suggest Elf TurboBoost, it is 115 RON (minimum) and has a hgher density at 0.795 than C16. That's a 9% increase in density, so you get 9% more weight of fuel in each litre. It is the weight of the fuel, not how many litres, that determins the power output. If I was really pushing the envelope, but wanted unleaded I would go with Elf TurboMax, it is still up there at 0.779 in density. Plus it is highly oxygenated at 3.6% and has a RON of 102. HKS like it so much they even sell it with their name on it, as HKS Drag Fuel. But it isn't nice on the skin or inhaled too much. Personally I don't like lead in fuel (kills cats, spark plugs, lambda sensors etc) so Elf LMS is my personal preference. It is also oxygenated (2.5%) and still has a high density at 0.765 and a RON of 101. It has the fast burn rate needed in high rpm, multivalve engines and it runs a bit cooler. Plus it isn't as nasty as TurboMax. Hope that makes sense:cheers:
  9. Hi Leigh, I have Bendix Ultimates in the road car with DBA slotted rotors and they are very good. No squeel, little dust, consistent stopping power and reasonable price. The race car uses Hawke Carbotics in the blue compound. They have a much higher coefficient of friction, so if the tyres are up to it, the car does stop in a shorter distance. They don't squeel, need a little heat in them, fair amount of dust, wear pretty quickly and the price makes my nose bleed. But the car stops in much shorter distances, the pedal is much easier to modulate, the tyres are up to it and it stops better for a whole 20 minute race. Even in brake pads, you get nothing for nothing:cheers:
  10. Try www.whiteline.com.au they have trained fitters all over the country:cheers:
  11. I always use slotted rotors, they clean up the pads, stop the little balls from rolling around under the pads and reducing the CoF. I have yet to find a set of drilled rotors that can handle the punishment though.
  12. Power FC's have individual cylinder trim for the injectors.
  13. Be careful, there is a lot of difference between the air before the throttle body (as in the pipework & the intercooler) and the air between the throttle body and the inlet valve.
  14. Do a search, there is a thread with pictures:cheers:
  15. Ball bearing hi flow of the RB25DET turbo, 265rwkw.
  16. Have you tried dropping the exhaust? That will tell you if that's the problem. The next test is boost before and after the intercooler. If the there is a restriction there it will cause the symptoms you have described. You may also need to measure the restriction in the turbine, it may be getting so high that it matches the boost coming in. And then there is the airfilter question.
  17. HiRB26VL, would have no affect on body roll, that's the stabiliser bars' job. Would helpt with body rigidity though, sorta like a strut brace for the dashboard.
  18. This is not an easy question to answer. When I engineer lowered springs I generally have to increase the spring rate. This is because there is simply less travel available to soak up the bumps, so a stronger spring rate is needed to prevent the car hitting the bump stops all the time. For a lowering of around 40 mm this usually means a 20 to 30% increase in spring rate. Some standard shocks handle this rate increase easily, some don't handle it at all. I don't know what the spring designer has decided to increase the spring rate by. Some stick to the 20% area (Whiteline for example), others prefer the 30% area (Kings for example). Now that is just the rate increase to maintain the travel/spring rate relationship. When springs makers decide to improve the handling by further increasing the spring rates, you can end up with some really silly stuf like 300% increases. Add to this the usual degredation in performance of shock absorbers over time and you end up with very much a guess as to whether they can handle the unknown spring rate or not. If you are fitting them yourself, then I would suggest go ahead and try it, it's your time. If you are paying someone to do it, then I would always get the shocks done at the same time. The cost of removing them twice (once for springs and then again later for shocks) makes this an easy decision. Hope that helps:cheers:
  19. Sorry burkey I missed it, what was it you wanted to know?
  20. Congratulations, You have won the lottery. You have them cold, they sold you a car that wasn't what you paid for. You could sue their asses for heaps, erroneous representation, misleading practise, taking money under false pretencces, FRAUD is the most common word used. I would definitely get another Stagea RSFour of them, you WILL get the best one money can buy. They WILL sell it to you for no profit, so you will either get some money back or a better/newer/lower K's one for the same price. Boy, I wish I was as lucky as you:cheers:
  21. Somewhere between $400 and $500 I can't remember, but I got some bushes (for rear camber & front caster) at the same time. Thanks and no problems do with it whatever you want, I put it up for the fellow Stagea owners to use. Stageas really need a stabiliser bar upgrade and it is such a worthwhile couple of hours. I hated the thought of guys simply whacking some Jap coil overs in and thinking that they have done the best they can. That's why I did the bars first. No ride degredation, but a big handling improvement, it's a win win. Hoping to put the bushes in next weekend, means a trip to the workshop as I need to use the 20 tonne press. Probably not a job you could easily do at home like the stabiliser bars. But I will stick up how to and some pictures. If I get time, I will show how to do a quick wheel alignment as well.
  22. When running in the old RB30DET I got 8 litres per 100k's going to Bathurst and back.
  23. The PWR radiator was $400 used on the forum, but almost brand new
  24. Yep, makes sense, the standard wiring is too small and can't handle the current that a large fuel pumps draws. I use the standard wiring to switch the relay and supply it with solid power straight from the battery. I use a 30 amp fuse at the battery to protect from busted wiring, that's what an 044 needs anyway. Be careful with the standard fuel hoses, clamps and pipes as they are not designed for 50 psi.
  25. Not me, 310 rwhp = 231 rwk, best I can get is 225 rwkw.
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