Sydneykid

Quick calc, 450 rwhp is around 535 bhp, so 550 cc injectors would do it easily.

Oh it makes a difference all right, but it also adds another level of complexity. On the Improved Production car we have adjustable stabiliser bars, quad adjustable dampers (high speed & low speed, bump & rebound), adjustable ride height, many sets of springs with different rates, full adjustment in the suspesnion geometry, camber, caster, toe, anti dive and anti squat. By the time you add in adjustable drive, my brain aches trying to tune it. An example, it has low speed oversteer. Bit more front bar, less rear bar , higher rear roll centre, more neg camber on the front, 1 click on the low speed front damping, 2 clicks on the high speed rear damping and then change the drive 2.5% more to the front. Damn now we have high speed understeer. Around and around we go.................... :headspin: Too many things to adjust and not enough time, make that NEVER enough time to try them all. :boohoo:

The ATTESSA ECU came from Mines, it has 4 settings, #1 is rear drive only, #2 is ~20% front drive, #3 is 30% front drive and #4 is ~40% front drive. The G sensors are still there but don't do anything. The car has a Motec ECU with launch control, which switches from #1 (just to get the rear wheels spinning) to #2 then #3 then #4 (if the straight is long enough). Once the gearbox is downchanged, launch control is automatically turned off. This means it stays in #2 or #3 depending on which we choose before the race (ie; it doesn't change). We only use #4 when it is really raining. Note that this GTR has all homologated Group N stuff, ATTESSA clutches, front and rear LSD's etc. In Production Car Racing we are not allowed to add things like switches or external controllers, so everything is done by software. It doesn't work as well as the switchable HKS controller in the Improved Production GTR, but better than nothing. Hope that helps:cheers:

I have never seen an R33 GTST RB25DET (non Neo) with solid followers, they have all been hydraulic. The only solid follower equiped RB25DET's I have seen have been the R34 GTT Neo versions.

As long as the ECU is capable of controlling the injectors you won't have any problems, for example I have seen a Power FC running 1300 cc injectors no problems.. The 700cc injectors are good for ~700bhp so I assume you need that you need sort of fuel supply to support your target power output. I would always recommend that you get the closest sized injector to your power target, it makes tuning easier. Leave a bit of headroom of course. We buy our 044's from the local Repco, a trade account helps with the prices. Do a search if you want to know how to fit an 044 into a GTR tank. If you are realy looking at 700 bhp I would suggest a surge tank using your standard GTR pump as a lift pump and feed the 044 of the surge tank. Hope that helps:cheers:

Oil in the water indicates a leak from the oil gallery to the water jacket, this is possible because the oil is under pressure, more pressure than the water. When you stop the engine the oil pressure will go to zero, but there will be pressure still in the water system, until it cools down, around 20 psi depending on the radiator cap. So if it truly has a leak from the oil gallery to the water jacket you will get water in the oil as well. A simple cooling system pressure test will tell if this is in fact the case, connect an air pump where the radiator cap goes and pump it up to around 20 psi. Watch and see if the pressure stays up, if it drops away then you have a leak. Sometimes you can actually hear where the leak is, they cost about $US70. This may not be related to the smoke, easy way to check that is with a simple leak down test. Connect compressed air up to the spark plug hole in each cylinder (one by one) and see if it leaks. Once again you can generally hear where the air is escaping from. You can buy a leak down tester for $US60. Your local friendly workshop should have both of these, maybe you can borrow. Hope that helps:cheers:

You have to connect wires to the turbo timer that enable the engine to run without the key being in the ignition. :thumbdwn:

Seems like Theo has about 100 bhp to go to make the Trust quoted output, looks to me like the Trust quoted power output isn't too far wrong. BTW, how did you calculate the transmission losses Theo? The 217 bhp seems a little high, based on my experience. I would have expected around 110 to 120 bhp with a dog box.

If the rest of the engine is up to it, you can get 10 rwkw max power increase and about 15 rwkw average power increase.If you don't have tunable ECU then get that first Settings, well every engine is different, I start at +2 inlet and -4 exhaust.

The dash warning is usually set at between 40 and 60, so 25 is OK.

We have an HKS adjustable torque split controller on our Improved Production GTR, there are no problems with having an external ATTESSA adjuster in the regulations. The Production GTR has adjustable torque split control via the Standard ATTESSA ECU which has modified software, software is free under those regulations. Hope that helps

Hi J, unfortunately not yet, Star Track Express still has them, since Friday :wassup:

Hi HappyMeal, the difficulties you are describing is exactly the reason I have chosen to stick with the standard springs and take a little height out by adjusting the lower spring seat circlip on the Bilsteins. The larger stabiliser bars will prevent the standard spring rate from being a problem for travel or roll. I have encounterd the problem with GTR travel a number times, people tend to have them too low. But I have found one case where GTST shocks were used in the front instead of GTR, the GTST shock is 15 mm longer than a GTR and that was enough to cause it to bottom out the bump stops regularly. I know that yours have been compared to what came out of the Stagea, but I am wondering whether the KYB are in fact GTST length. I have the respective GTR/GTST lengths somewhere, I will post them up when I find them:cheers:

As long as the rockers don't fly off and the block doesn't split. :Paranoid:

Personally I would sell it and buy something that makes the car go faster, rather than something that makes it easier to steal.

So the problem is the tacho doesn't work? And you want to know how to fix it? Have you tried connecting it up to the input from the CAS to the ECU? Or bridging the tacho feed to the ignitor?

What that means is the larger diameterr rotors have more leverage to slow the car down for the same pedal pressure. But Roy is correct, if you pushed harder on the smaller rotors you would get the car to stop in the same distance. I agree wiht Duncan, ultimately in a road car it is the weight of the car, its tyres and suspension that determin the minimum stopping distance. Just tor clear something up from a previous post, it is my recollection that ~20% slower rotation of the tyre is the best for stopping distance on a hard surface. On loose gravel or dirt, 100% slower rotation (locked up) is actually best for shorter stopping distances as it piles the dirt up in front of the tyre. That's why ABS on dirt or loose gravel is not a good thing.

Let me make sure I have this right; 1. It was OK with standard spring and shocks, not bottoming out on the bump stops 2. Put in lowered (unkown) springs with the standard shocks and it still didn't bottom out on the bump tops. The standard shocks didn't have enough dampening though 3. Put in brand new R33 GTR KYB shocks with the same lowered springs and it now bottoms out on the bump stops 4. Checked the dimension of the KYB's and they are the same as the standard shocks. Have I got it right?

Hi, I assume you went for the GTSS's for their response, if so it would seem stange to remove the multiple throttle bodies and lessen the throttle response. They are certainly not going to be a restriction at 350 awkw. Which should not be a problem for the GTSS's. Personally 3,000 k's seems like an awefully long run it period, I would never have more than 1,000 k's and generally around 500 k's is more than enough. I assume you are using some non synthetic running in oil. In which case I would be doing a filter change at say 200 k's and a full oil and filter change at 500 to 1,000 k's to a full synthetic oil. This means after that you won't be doing much running in, full synthetic is too "slippery" for that. Hope that is of some help:cheers:

The HKS is made by Quaife, if I remember trightly. Sequential is always cheaper on maintenance for both engine and gearbox. Pfitzner makes a good box. Personally I would choose a sequential Hollinger.

Interesting stuff guys, a few things I noticed; The Nissan SuperTourers (Primeras) never had more than 320 bhp, 240 kw or 200 rwkw. So I have no idea where this quote comes from The pictures below are of one of our Primeras, so I can speak from personal experience.Just to even it up It's a H4, so it has 2 cylinders in front of the axle line and then 2 cylinders in front of that. The SR20 is an I4 and transverse, so it has 4 cylinders in front of the axle line, but they are in line. So the centre of gravity of the H4 must be further forward than the I4.The Sub might have better weight distribution, but not by much, if any at all. And if it has, it's not because the front is lighter, but because the rear is heavier. Plus it is canterlevered out from the rear axle line far more than the hatchback GTiR. Hardly an advantage. To clear another one up that seems to have lingured, GTiR's most definitely have solid lfters and they have quad throttle bodies. Regardless, for a turbo engine I prefer the CA series over both the boat anchor FJ and the easily broken SR with the unstable rocker geometry. In my humble opinion, both pale into insignificance compared to a GTR and even an Evo makes them irrelevant, if only the Mitsubishi cardigans had the gonads to keep selling them.

Hi guys, this subject has a large number of possible arguments. Personanly I think the killer for the GTR's is weight, for example our R32 GTST weighs 1245kgs and the R32 GTR 1558 kgs. The 25% extra weight in a GTR means that in order to go around a corner at the same speed it has to have ~25% more grip, in order to stop as well it has to have ~25% better brakes and in order to accelerate as well it has to have ~25% more power. So if I have a GTST that has the same power, suspension, tyres and brakes it will be faster than a GTR over one lap, maybe even for 2 or 3 laps. But over say 20 laps, and the higher the power output, the more the rear tyres on the GTST start to go away. That's why the GTR was, and always will be, Godzilla of the Touring Cars.

Hi gtst25, we buy our Bosch stuff from our local Repco, better price if you know someone with a trade account.

Hi Ian, I don't think you can use an R34 CAS with an R32 or R33 ECU; the timing indicators are different, the R34 has many more if I remember rightly.

You don't happen to have the GTST manual by any chance Duncan?