Sydneykid

Valve body change, solenoid upgrade and a big transmission cooler would be on my list. The torque converters seem OK, the stall at 1,800 rpm with standard power and get up around 2,750 rpm with the usual mods for 225 rwkw. They launch very well at the power/stall combo as the tubo is producing some boost. Hope that helps:cheers:

If you want a price comparison try www.performancewholesale.com.au they are also distributors for most of the brands that Rocket are.

If you guys see mine please don't publish the rego number, thanks:cheers:

Is this a purely a drag car or is it to be driven on the road? Daily? What is your target bhp? Because there are quite a few issues that make daily driving quite different than a blast down the 1/4 once a month.

Nah, they don't have a torque converter, that seems to be the test most applied to determin what is an auto and what isn't.

Nope, the SAFC has no ability to adjust zero throttle richness. Yep around 60% or more plumb back will help, assuming it is physically plumbed back of couse. Oooops, auto gearboxes have a lock on the output shaft so that when you put them into Park the car doesn't roll. Hopefully you didn't break off the locking pin. Easy to check, just put it in Park on hill, when you are stopped of course, and make sure it doesn't roll. When moving, Neutral is the place to restart the engine.

I don't know never tried it, but I always write down the settings anyway.

Too many questions in one post, I'll answer two and leave some for others... The Power FC is the go, you have done enough mods to justify it. You should get around 20 rwkw increase in average power with your mods, nicer running and better fuel economy. My rule of thumb for a standard turbo is 10psi (0.7 bar), anymore than that and you risk ceramic turbine in the cat disease. over to others.........

Hi Zane, you can't have a open to atmosphere BOV. The ECU knows how much air goes into the engine via the AFM, so it squirts in the right amount of fuel for that air. But the BOV lets a whole pile of that air escape, so the ECU squirts in too much fuel when the BOV is open. Bingo, too rich a mixture and the engine stalls. Get a plumb back BOV and all will be well again. I have never found anything wrong with the standard BOV, so I have and will not be changing it on my Stagea. Hope that helps:cheers:

The rule of thumb is 444cc injectors in a 6 cylinder = 444 bhp (around 270 rwkw).

You can buy a premapped chip, but every engine is different. So the more accurate way is to real time tune the chip on the dyno.

Tial make 46 mm and 50 mm, HKS have 3 types of 50mm, Greddy have 2 types of 47 mm, Garrett have 46 mm and a few more that I can't remember.

Hi guys, as most will know I am not an auto fan, they simply don't work in a circuit race car. But if I had to build a sub 10sec drag Skyline I could do it with an auto far easier and far cheaper than a manual. Hugos will sell me, almost off the shelf, an auto capable of running 9's all day for less than $3K. A manual gearbox capable of the same will cost three times that, then add $3K more for the clutch. The auto is going to be much softer on stuff like tailshafts, diffs, driveshafts, uni joints etc. The standard stuff that will survive with an auto, won't with a manual. Some examples...... FIRNA protechnik 64 Vette - 10.1 RaceGLIDE Transmission Leigh Rainbird V8 LH Torana - 10.9 at 123mph RaceGLIDE Transmission and Comp Shifter Frank Marchese V8 SB Ford Super Street XA Falcon - 10.7 at 125mph RaceGLIDE Transmission Turbo Charged 6 Cyl Holden - 9.80 @ 143mph Race MATIC Transmission Omar Sedmak V8 SB Chev Naturally Aspirated Ford Cortina - 9.50 @ 140mph RaceGLIDE Transmission Zak Weir 9.50 @ 140mph RaceGLIDE Transmission Steve Athans 8.45 @ 167mph Twin Turbo RaceGLIDE Transmission Craig Thompson Blown Rodeck Chev 8.30 @ 166mph RaceGLIDE Transmission Craig Brewer 468 BB Chev 8.70 @ 153mph Mark Clifford - HG Holden 10.1-355 Holden and RaceGLIDE 11.0-331 Holden and RaceMATIC Warren Appleby RaceGLIDE Transmission 9.60 @ 143mph Richard Caval RaceGLIDE Transmission 9.90 Index Tony Diviak RaceGLIDE Transmission 10.4 @ 128mph Scott Fitzpatrick RaceGLIDE Transmission 8.61 @ 158mph Andrew Seager RaceGLIDE Transmission Blown BBC Rodek 7.4 @ 178mph Omar Sedmak RaceGLIDE Transmission 9.90 Index Racing Michael Konstandinou ICE Ignitions RaceGLIDE Transmission Naturally Aspirated 6cyl 265 Hemi 10.4 @ 126mph Simon Pimm RaceGLIDE Transmission Turbo 6cyl 9.4 @ 138mph Lee Bektash RaceGLIDE Transmission 308 Holden 8.99 @ 151mph Alistair Palmer RaceGLIDE Transmission 9.90 Index

Hi Chris, there is a small, white, rectanglular socket in the side of the Power FC that the Power FC Boost Control Kit plugs into. There are no other electrical connections required. I have a new R32 GTST Boost Control Kit at home at the moment if you want pictures let me know and I will post them up.

It will run the engine OK, but the manual ECU has no programming for retarding the ignition on gearchanges. So you will get jerky shifts, flaring on gearchanges and premature gearbox wear. I drove a manual with an auto ecu last week. It's actually quite a funny sensation. The auto ecu retards the ignition when it thinks there is a gearchange, but in the manual there wasn't a gear change. So the power would drop off everytime the ecu thought there was going to be a gearchange. Really weird feeling, after a while you find yourself trying to match the manual gearchanges with when the ecu thinks they should be.

Sorry, I still don't understand, help me out here. But first let's get the crap out of the way, this is not a discussion about the turbo being too big or too small, or the manifold being crap or the intercooler might be blocked etc. It is a discussion about whether a wastegate can be too big. I am sorry if I gave the impression otherwise. So to the subject at hand.... If the 45mm wastegate "creaps open" (your words, not mine) it will flow 65% more exhaust than the 35mm wastegate. If that is too much turbine bypass (boost goes below target) it will close (maybe not completely shut). If that's not enough turbine bypass it will open (maybe not fully, just a bit). etc etc Maybe the problem is when I say "open" I don't necessarily mean FULLY open. When I say "close" I don't necessarily mean FULLY closed. So I can not see any way that TOO large a wastegate won't open and close more than a wastegate that is the right size. If I put my dial gauge on the diaphram of the too large wastegate, it will move more often than the wastegate of the right size. Or have a I missed something?

Hi Alf, sounds good, I will assume the turbo can be fully utilised; 700bhp / 11 X 19 / 25 = 48 mm Hope that helps

Oh absolutely, but as DB said it is not simply a big engine in an otherwise standard Supra. It has had considerable development and investment in both time and money.

I notice the roll cage extends to the radiator support panel. This is not usually done for safety. In fact it removes the crumple zone forward of the strut towers, so would in fact decrease safety. It is usually employed when the front chassis rails and inner guards are removed, so it holds up the nose of the car. To futher support this view, looking at the LHS inner guard it appears to be heavily trimmed. Also note the apparent rearward mounting of the engine, it looks to be around 100 mm further back than standard. I am not a drag racing expert, but I though the 3000 lb class included the driver. So that would put the car itself at around 1300 kgs. Which is about right for a lightened and fully caged Supra.

The turbine cover is different:cheers:

If I remember rightly the auto ecu has a bit of learning capacity. If you drive around like a toad, it will shift gears like a toad. It learns that you like to drive slowly, gently and softly so it changes up gears early and doesn't hold the rpm. It takes a bit of a thrash for a few minutes for it to unlearn. I also understand that Power mode turns off the learning and stops the slowly, gently and softly. Hope that helps:cheers:

Personally I wouldn't put a GTR type 2530 on an RB20/25. I would buy the right one.

Well 35 mm worked on 8 other engines, so there must be another reason, what do you think it is? Sorry I don't understand your point #1, if I have 1 wastegate actuator and swap it from a 35 mm wastegate to a 45 mm wastegate, they will both open the same amount at the same time in response to the same boost pressure. But the 45mm wastegate will flow 65% more exhaust for the same opening. If that 65% more flow is too much (ie; boost drops) then the wastegate will close. Then it will open, then it will close etc. If the 35mm wastegate is the right size, then it won't do this open/closed stuff. Hope that clarifies:cheers:

There are 2 types of 2530, the GTR type and the GTST type, if you get a GTST type it fits the standard exhaust manifold. Both types of 2530's use the standard Nissan 5 bolt dump pipe flange. You will need new gaskets and o'rings. Your local turbo shop should have the necessary water and oil pipes. The standard compressor inlet fits straight on, but the compressor outlet doesn't, I used a right angle silicone bend. Hope that helps:cheers:

http://onionz.com/~saft/stagea/ Tip TURN UP the volume Check out the time, and it did a faster run same day. :boinkcar: