Sydneykid

I don't remove the mesh to clean them, just spray it with brake clean, never carby cleaner it leaves a residue.

How much power has it gone backwards?

When it's raining....YES When the surface is dirty.... YES When the road is broken up and bumpy....YES When you have to run on skinny road tyres......YES Just like the roads that I drive on every day. Surely no one believes that if I put a 600 bhp GTR next to 600 BHP Supra on the road that the Supra would ever win. All the toyboy would see is :shake:

Ours came in at 1,658kgs with no fuel in the tank, with a full tank, some stuff in the back and 2 passengers it went over 1,900 kgs. Sorry, maybe I need to be a bit more frank. Sure the R33 GTST stuff will bolt in, but the spring and damper rates will be wrong, very wrong. There is no way I would be using a twin chamber, small piston Japanese shock on a Stagea Especially not together with a reduced travel, high rate spring designed for a car with 30% less weight. The combination of chassis weight, plus potential passenger and luggage capacity make a Stagea very different from an R33 GTST, which is after all a 2 door coupe with appropriate passenger and luggage usage patterns. My 20 cents worth:cheers:

Hi Chris, knock sensor is adjustable, there is a threshold (0 to 100) and a setting (0 to 9 , I think as I have never adjusted it). Usual threshold is 60, and flash is set to 9. This flash interval is so you can tell what sensor the Engine Warning light is flashing for. They are located in the Settings menu but it has been a while since I used the Commander to do it, the Datalogit is so much easier. Hope that helps:cheers:

You already know that you have to replace both, you don't really need us to tell you that.

That's what the 2 settings were developed for on the SAFC11's, so you could have power (large throttle openings) and fuel economy (small throttle openings). You couldn't do that with the previous models, you always had to choose one of the other. Have a talk to your tuner, it is a pretty easy job to tune.

The Stagea has all the heavy 4wd stuff at the front like a GTR, so I wouldn't suggest that GTST springs or damper rates would be OK. Much better to go for GTR front components in that regard. The rear is GTST, lower eye style, again if you are going to use a Stagea as a waggon, carry passengers and stuff you would need to choose the right rate of variable spring for the rear. A long stroke, big bore (large piston area) shock would be my suggestion (something like a Bilstein).

Hi, the current model of SAFC11 has two throttle position programs, they are programable, but usually set with one for under 70% and one for over 70%. It would seem that your tuner has only tuned for over 70%. If he uses the under 70% range he can tune at the low rpm ranges to fix that problem. This will not affect over 70% throttle settings or high rpm. Hope that helps:cheers:

Woooo, that's very lean. Have I read this right, all you have done is just turn the boost up? Nothing else?

Being a circuit racer this is a simple question for me to answer, an equally modified GTR will easily lap a Supra in any race with a distance over ~20 minutes. If it's raining, it will take half as long. The GTR was designed and engineered to do exactly that, and it did it everywhere in the world, on almost every race track and against all opposition. It would be simply impossible for a Supra to duplicate that, they do not have the chassis or the drive train engineering to even get close. For the drag racing guys, show me a Supra that can do 9's on Federal radials.

www.whiteline.com.au

Chocolate frog for Adrian, T88 is a Canter turbo. But Mitsubishi do upgrade some components like seals, bearings, thrusts, exhaust housing etc to handle the extra heat.

:uhh: 280 PS :uhh: Best I have seen out of the R34 GTT RB25DET Neo standard turbo is 205rwkw (that's around 360 ps). That was at 12 psi and the turbo didn't last very long, died from ceramic in the cat disease.

Fully serviced and rebuilt RB25DET gearbox and front tailshaft in mine.

Hi Brad, have a read of this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=53079 I think it answers your questions:cheers:

Hi guys; I have 2 comments that I think sum it up; 1.Supra was built for the American market, while the GTR was built to win Group A races. 2.Supra has turbos on the wrong side for Australia and Japan, while the GTR has Turbos on the correct side.

No, my suggestion would be a set of Bilsteins with Whiteline springs. More reasonable price and better for our conditions than Jap Coil Overs.

Hi TT, it's my understanding that it's for Option #5 so you can set up your own polynomial:cheers:

Hi TT, my understanding is that those numbers refer to the 5th Option in which you plug in your own polynomial:cheers:

Yep 500 degC is the temp in the exhaust manifold, 300 degC is more like the temp at the turbine outlet, which is the more usual measuring point. The difference is the amount of heat (energy) converted to kinetic energy in the turning of the turbine. The result would be similar for a petrol engine, so the comparison is valid.

Diesels have much lower exhaust gas temperature, you don't see 300 degrees celsius. A petrol engine on the other hand will get to tripple that. So if you use a diesel turbo on a petrol engine, the seals last no time, the oil/water cooling is deficient, so the bearings die very quickly, even the turbines and exhaust housings are not designed for the temperature of a petrol engine exhaust. Bottom line, not a good idea.

I like these ones, I get them from GCG:cheers:

It really depends on what head is on the RB31DET and what use the engine is being put to. If its an RB25DET non Neo, then the 256 Tomei Poncams are the go, if its a Neo then the 260's. That's in a road/combo car and I see no reason to dissable the VVT. If its an RB26 top end on a forged 3.1 litre bottom end for circuit race use, then I like the Jun profiles with a preference for 272/10.8 mm inlet and 280/10.8mm exhaust. If its an RB26 top end for a road/combo engine I have yet to find much difference between the brands in the 264/9.4 to 9.8 mm lift area. They seem to work pretty much the same, as long as you stick to the standard base circle. I am not a fan of the reduced base circle profiles regardless of the brand. Hope that answered your question:cheers:

Hi Brad, be careful, the rear suspesion geometry goes to hell when you lower them. They run negative camber at standard height and the camber change angles are pretty drastic. Loss of traction and tyre wear are the usual result. The front is not so bad, but they could certainly do with some more caster. If you just lower it without fixing the geometry it will handle very badly, poor turn in and terrible power down.