Sydneykid

Yep, I have a Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator that came from Nengun, it bolts onto the end of the standard fuel rail, I'd say $180 well spent.

Great thread guys. I just need to clear something up here, I have used the Tomei 256/260 Poncams in 2 X RB25's, one Neo in an R34GTT and one non Neo in an R33 GTST. Neither of them benefitted from having an adjustable exhaust camshaft pulley, they both made their best average power at zero degrees adjustment. The Poncams work very well with the VVT, I kept it, so no adjustable inlet camshaft pulley. This has not been my experience with GTR's, they ALWAYS benefit from adjustable inlet and exhaust camshaft pulleys. The more extensive the mods, the more they benefit and no two engines are the same. Hope that clarifies:cheers:

Since your target is 450 bhp, the standard SR20 side feed 480cc injectors would be my choice. Pleanty of SR20's being upgraded so there are quite a few sets around. I think someone on the forum bought 2 sets of 4 and has 2 for sale, if you get those you would only need one set of 4. Definitely Power FC would be my choice anda set of Tomei 256 Poncams. As long as the turbo can keep up, I reckon that will get you to 265 rwkw (265 + 65 X 1.34 = 445 bhp).

The boot is very important, as you said it stops grit getting trapped between the shaft on the seal, this results in a worn shaft and a stuffed seal. Show me a shock off a car and I tell straight away whether it has been running with no boots. You can buy generic ones from suspension shops. I use cheapies from off road bike shops, they come in fluro colours too. :boinkcar:

Coil over springs are around $150 per pair, the rate doesn't affect the price. But you really need to know the rate that is in there first.

I don't know the limit, what I can say is we have an R34 GTT that makes 265 rwkw with the standard airbox with a Pipercross panel filter in it.

Boring looking does not mean "standard":cheers:

They stick them in 2wd to warm up the rear tyres as they cop most of the launch load. They have a line locker on the front brakes to hold them while the rears spin.

Some can, some can't, it is easy to check though. On the top of the shock body there is a cap (the shaft goes through it) that has to be removed if they are serviceable. If the cap has a hex head, or slots, or holes so it can be turned, then they are serviceable. If it has no way of turning it then it is not serviceable. Hope that is of some help:cheers:

I use Pipercross filters only, I have used them for years on race, road and rally cars. Being multi density foam (up to 6 layers), they work far better and for longer than the others at keeping the engine clean inside. The panel filters (fit inside the standard airbox) are great for mild power upgrades. The POD's come in lots of sizes, so I choose the one that has no power loss for the target output of the engine. http://www.pipercross.net/

Thanks but not much help, the std rev limiter seems to be at 7,500 rpm and mine's an auto. In the dry I stand on the brakes, hard. Stick it in drive and raise the revs until the torque converter holds the rpm there. Take foot of brake and floor the accelerator. No wheelspin from the standard engine just :wavey: In the wet I ..... well exactly the same :wavey: So I need more power then we might get some :burnout:

Has anyone measured their Stagea brakes, I would like to complete my chart.. Front Rotor dimensions as I know them... Diameter Thickness R32 GTST 280 24 R32 GTST M Spec 296 28 R32 GTR 296 30 R32 GTR Brembo 324 28 R33 GTST 296 30 R33 GTR 296 30 R33 GTR Brembo 324 28 R34 GTR 310 28 R34 GTT 296 28 Stagea RS Four ??? ?? Stagea 260RS Brembo 324 28 Rear Rotor dimensions as I know them... R32 GTST M Spec 297 16 R32 GTR 297 16 R32 GTR Brembo 300 20 R33 GTST 297 16 R33 GTR 297 16 R33 GTR Brembo 300 20 R34 GTR 297 16 R34 GTT 297 16 Stagea RS Four ??? ?? Stagea 260RS Brembo 300 20

Front Rotor dimensions as I know them... Diameter Thickness R32 GTST 280 24 R32 GTST M Spec 296 28 R32 GTR 296 30 R32 GTR Brembo 324 28 R33 GTST 296 30 R33 GTR 296 30 R33 GTR Brembo 324 28 R34 GTR 310 28 R34 GTT 296 28 Rear Rotor dimensions as I know them... R32 GTST M Spec 297 16 R32 GTR 297 16 R32 GTR Brembo 300 20 R33 GTST 297 16 R33 GTR 297 16 R33 GTR Brembo 300 20 R34 GTR 297 16 R34 GTT 297 16

Always rebuild shocks in pairs, it is not good to have a new one in one side and an old one in the other.

The standard boot also includes the bump stop. This is very necessary as it stops the shock from bottoming out and destroying the valves For protection I wrap the top of the shock and spring unit in an old sheet and stand on the loose bits. Never point it towards your head and never work leaning over the top. A 200 lb spring with 2.5" of preload packs a pretty solid punch.

Launch style depends on what tyres, clutch and suspension you are running:cheers

That's the way my system is plumbed sump----> oil pump ---->remote oil filter (with oil temp & pressure sensors)--->oil cooler---> engine --->sump

Hi Wilso, my suggestions follow; 1. Standard R33/34 GTR intercooler will do fine, 600 X 300 X 70 with cast alloy tanks, much better than many aftermarket coolers. It is tube and fin of course. 2. RB20DET tailshaft won't fit RB25DET gearbox, it;s too small, won't fit the output shaft splines. I use an RB25DET tailshaft.

Big waste of money too:cheers:

Oil at 100 degrees C and 80 psi is a lot different to air at 60 degrees C at 10 psi.

A Stagea has the ATTESSA system just like a GTR:cheers:

Hi Brad, the auto ecu has programming that quite is different from the manual ecu. The easiest to explain is the shift logic. The auto ecu retards the ignition on gearchanges, if you use an auto ecu in a manual it will retard the igntion when it thinks there is about to be a gearchange. But obviously in the manual car you decide when to change gewar not the gearbox ecu. So you drive along and the ecu retards the ignition (and therefore cuts power) everytime it thinks there is going to be s gearchange. This is a most strange sensation. You need also be aware that the auto RB25DET has a lower power output than the manual RB25DET and the ecu is programmed accordingly. The idle speed is higher as it expects the car to be in drive, not clutch in and/or neautral selected. The rpm limit appears to be lower as well. My suggestion, find a manaul ecu. There are plenty of Power FC's going into R33 GTST's so there must be a heap of standard ecu's hanging around:cheers:

Sciby is spot on, you should get someone ot push the brake pedal one day when you ca nsee the brake lines. You won't believe how much they flex, and as they get older they flex even more, look like a balloon.

That's right, they sound much better than the RB25. :whip:

My 20 cents worth, its a waste of time and money, gives no advantage and plenty of hassles. There are much more beneficial ways to spend your money, ones that will actually make the car faster.