Sydneykid

We use lots of Whiteline springs with Bilstein shocks with great success. www.whiteline.com.au

We run adjustable KYB shocks on the R34 GTT, work great, not as harsh as most Japanese shocks. Many of the "brand name" shocks are made by KYB.

They look like a hockey puck.

What is your email address and I will email you a manual?

Stagea RS Four auto box.

R32, almost every tuning shop. Certainly Chiptorque, Fueltronics, etc dealers.

Hi Duncan, even the GTST will be marginal. The problem is access to the chassis rails is blocked by the fuel tank and the exhaust system. The tow bar needs to have rear links plus some triangulation to stop it from rotating under the twisting load from the goose neck (and ball). Also we need to spread the drag load around. There doesn't appear to be any way to get a forward link, under the fuel tank would be too low. Removing the tank and fabricating/fitting a forward link/s then replacing the tank may be the only way. After thinking about it overnight, I think I will need to push them a bit more or maybe find another supplier. Further updates as they occur.

As do most owners of performance cars. That's the problem with turbo timers, people think that it saves them from cooling everything down, after all if the turbo's OK....... :Pimp:

If you have a datalogit system you can log your boost settings. :Pimp:

I have never seen any bump steer on a double wishbone Skyline. I have a Longacre bump steer gauge that we use on the race cars. The standard geometry is pretty much spot on, you really have to get very low before it becomes an issue. In fact so low that you will have other problems far more important than a bit of bump steer. :jester: PS; if you want to know more about bump steer this is a good simple explanation http://www.longacreracing.com/articles/art...rt.asp?ARTID=13

Agree, Power FC is the go. There are a number of things you will want/have to do that you can't with the standard ECU.

Power FC with boost kit. :jester:

I popped into Karasel yesterday with the Stagea (got the usual" Volvo" comment) for a look over for them to make up a tow bar. Remembering that I need a large capacity to tow the R32GTST. After a good loook around, the consensus was the rear muffler (still standard) was too close to the chassis rail and the rear skirt to allow fitment of a decent size bar. I will have to shorten the rear muffler by 50 mm or so, this means a longer tail pipe. So next week is cat back exhaust time, but before I do that, I will do a quick power run on the 4wd dyno and log the 4wkw, torque, boost, A/F ratios etc. Then I will know how much exactly just the exhaust gives. The tow bar cost is $450 fitted plus $50 for wiring. That's for designing and making just one, I will get a group buy price if anyone else is interested, just let me know. :jester:

Had a chance yesterday to put the Stagea up on the hoist for half an hour and have a look around. I will post up some pictures on Monday, I left the camera in the workshop. Some things I noticed; The front shocks look to be the same as R33 GTR, as is the rest of the front suspension The rear shocks look to be the same as R33 GTST (eye at the bottom) No HICAS, yahooooo The front stabiliser bar is 22 mm hollow, like an R33 GTR. I am fitting a 24 mm Whiteline adjustable bar (Part #BNF27XZ) The rear bar is 19 mm and solid, like an R33 GTS I am fitting a 22 mm Whiteline adjustable bar (Part #BNR11XZ) The front caster bushes are the same as R33 GTR, it definitely needs mores caster (it was getting the front end wanders at 170 kph) I am fitting some Whiteline adjustable polyurethane bushes and adding about 2 degrees positive caster (part # KCA332). Ours sits a little rear down (maybe carried stuff in the back a lot) Has around 2 degrees negative camber, which is more than the standard adjusters can remove So I am fitting some adjustable Whiteline bushes in the rear upper arms (Part #KCA347). The front looks OK for camber, should have a little negative when I lower it. I didn't remove the shocks to check the spring rates, I will do that when I remove them to swap to the Bilsteins. The front springs look to be a similar rate to R33GTR, the rears are different though. I will machine a couple of extra circlip grooves into the Bilsteins so I can lower it just enough. Hope that is of some help :type:

THe R32/33 GTR pump is 190 litres per hour and supports 420 bhp at standard pressure. You can pick them up reasonably cheap on the forum and they are very reliable and not excessively noisy.

We use intank pumps outside all the time.

Hi Greg, yep you are spot on, fitting block mounted oil squirters to an RB30 is really a bitch. We have tested 2 engines for 12 months with ceramic coating on the piston crowns (Competition Coatings) instead of the squiters. Plus a few minor mods to the rod mounted squirters. Pulled one down for inspection and I couldn't tell the difference between it and another with squirters. Wear rates, piston hardness, crack test, sonic etc nothing showed up any different. Both engines run 600 to 700 bhp in competition, so they get a hard life. Both have decent size oil coolers and we only use Castrol Formula R Synthetic 10W60. Hope that helps

My suggestion for a guaranteed result is to take them off the car put them in a box and send them to GCG. They will N1 spec them and service them and send them back within 10 days. www.gcg.com.au I have no other suggestion for a guaranteed result. :wavey:

Hi guys, timing on a Skyline can be a pain this is what I do to make sure the signal is pure...... I take the #1 coil right off and lay it on the cam cover. I them stick a piece of insulated wire inside the coil (like it was a spark plug) so it makes contact. I connect the other end of the wire to the spark plug. I loop the sensor from the timing light around the piece of wire. That way you get a nice clean signal from only 1 cylinder, with no delay (light flashes exactly when the plug fires). Hope that helps :wavey:

That's a great result from the SAFC and a good tuner, those A/F ratios are almost perfect.

What is your power target?

Yep, that makes sense. Optimax, ambient temperature 25 degrees, inlet temperature 29 degrees Ultimate, ambient temperature 25 degrees, inlet temperature 56 degrees

Excellent Greg, on RB30's we make up thin alloy washers that fit the oil squirters and moves them 1mm lower. Would that help in this case?

If I wanted to cheat on the dyno results I would stick the air temp sensor behind the radiator and pick up 10 rwkw. What was the air temp for the Optimax dyno graph?

Was the inlet temperature really 56 degrees?