Sydneykid

The engine dyno is great, build an engine, run it in on the dyno, tune it, make sure it is making the power it should then stick it in the car and go racing. In a climate controlled roo,m the results are repeatable with very small variations (eg; less than 2 bhp in 625 bhp). Works for us. But (there is always a BUT) sometimes they don't go as fast as they should and you simply don't have time to pull it out and run it up on the engine dyno to find the problem. Sometimes it's an installation problem, it makes good power out of the car, but loses 50 bhp when you put it in the car. Then the chassis dyno really comes into its own, you can check the installation, search for problems, make changes (eg; exhaust pipes) and check results quickly. As usual it's horses for courses :cooldance

See it all the time, the standard pump was stuffed and the filter blocked. So when it was tuned, the tuner compensated for the low fuel pressure. Then when you put the big pump in and a new filter, the correct amount of pressure was being applied at the rail and the engine runs rich. This is where the BS stories start about retuning being needed after larger fuel pumps are installed. Bottom line, if it had 38 psi rail pressure (above boost) when it was tuned then it will run the same as long as it has 38 psi (above boost) rail pressure. You could put 50 pumps on it, as long as the rail pressure was 38 psi it would still run the same A/F ratios. Hope that clarifies

Maybe I am the only one who has compared them, but the spec sheet confirms it. The N1 water pump is specifically designed for continuous high rpm use, so it doesn't cavitate. This means it pumps less water around at lower rpm. So if you use your RB26 a lot (only) on the track, an N1 water pump is maybe worthwhile. But driving around the street it will be a handicap, maybe on hot days with the aircon on, in traffic. The RB30 pump is much better for this as it was designed for lower (average) rpm. That's all for me :birdie:

Hi Adrian, the reason the drag guys use the calculator is because the engines don't last long enough to run them up on the dyno... 7,000 rpm for 6 seconds = 700 revolutions of the crankshaft Time for a rebuild, new pistons, rings, rods, reseat the valves etc 7,000 rpm for 6 seconds = 700 revolutions of the crankshaft Time for another rebuild, new pistons, rings , rods, reseat the valves etc Doesn't give you much time to run it on the dyno, so to GUESS how much power it has you have to dig out the trusty calculator and punch in some numbers. :headbang:

I drove over 200 k's with the ceramic in the cat, just check the oil level lots and keep the rpm down.

Now that you mention it, it's raining cats and dogs here, an SS ute a couple of weeks ago, a GTS last week, where is that annoying bloke in the XR6 turbo..... :Owned:

It's only a lightweight one, 750 kgs. :Paranoid:

Except when you forget to push the button. How embarasment :Paranoid:

Any dealer for Chiptorque, Fueltronics, Unichip etc http://www.unichip.com.au/ http://www.fueltronics.com.au/ http://www.chiptorque.com.au/

Fantastic, so I can tell all my mates to drag you off during the week? :whip: Personally it would drive me crazy, I prefer to use the throttle to control speed and fuel cunsumption, after all that's what it's there for. :burnout:

No not usually, even on low voltage they have enough to pump 36-38 psi, after all the engine isn't using very much at idle. :burnout:

You get a bit desensitised to power outputs on here sometimes. I took a friend for a ride in an R34 GTT last week, it has 265 rwkw (about 435 bhp). He is very used to powerful cars, currently he owns an F360 Ferrari and he has had a few Porsches before that. After a few minutes of driving in the R34 he was stunned at how fast it was, he simply had no idea what a Skyline was capable of. I then tried to explain to him how much faster the race R32 GTST was with more than 400 rwkw (650 bhp) and 200 kgs less weight. I don't think he could comprehend it, so I promised when the new RB31DET goes in he can come for a ride. The point is Daiso, do you have any idea how fast a 700-800 bhp Skyline really is? Then think of it as a 2wd daily driver in the rain, heat, snow (probably not in California), traffic (definitely in California) etc. On the race track, the extra 200 bhp comes in very handy, but I don't think I could ever use it on the road. If you still want to check out some turbos, pop onto the Turbonetics site, the dual ceramic ball bearing, titanium compressored T66 is the go for a bit over 700 bhp. Hope that helps :burnout:

A/T = Automatic transmission, so if you have a manual you shouldn't have wiring for #5, #6,,#14, or #15. If I remember rightly #56 is also for the A/T as it tells the auto ECU how much throttle you have on. I have seen #6 wired, but it was either on an auto or a GTS4. Hope that helps :burnout:

Ahh no. S12/13/14/15 are all strut based front suspension, R32/33/34 Skylines are double wishbone front suspension. :whip:

My recommendation is the usual 10 PSI. :Paranoid:

Ooops too wide, thanks for the reply.

We simply use a pair of GTST pod filters as they are designed for 80 mm.

Hi guys, HKS pulleys are made from hardened alloy and seem to be the lightest, I haven't weighed all brands though. I have seen 1 pair of worn HKS pulleys and the cambelt was so tight you could play it like a violin. I have seen many pairs not showing any wear, but the cambelts were tensioned correctly. I have never seen a stainless steel camshaft pulley. They would weigh so much it would be like having 3 flywheels anyway. I use the Jun adj pulleys, they utilise the standard Nissan outer with a billet alloy inner to give the adjustment. So the durability is the same as the standard pulleys with regard to teeth. They are very boring to look at, but I always run covers so you can't see them anyway. If someone wants to send me one of every type of pulley, we have a rockwell tester so I can confirm the teeth hardness of each brand. It's not a destruction test, you will get them back able to be used. If someone who had a problem with the HKS pulleys had done a proper hardness test and found them to be deficient I am sure they would have gotten more than their money back. Hope that makes sense :uh-huh:

Side by side maybe, but then driver skill is always a factor. Plus lane choice becomes important on many days, I have seen a car drop 0.3 sec with only the lane change. :uhh:

Good result from those mods, only needs that 1.2 kw, hey?

Same

Hi Brad, the answer to both is "Yes", it doesn't matter they are the same. If you don't know how to connect a relay, I suggest a trip to your local auto electrician. If you are game, a relay has 4 connections. The "input" to turn it on, the "earth" to well earth it, the "supply" from the battery, the "output" to the pump. The "input" is connected to the + wire that goes to the standard pump. The "earth" is connected to the chassis. The "supply" is connected to the + on the battery. The "output" is connected to + on the pump The - on the pump is connect to the chasis. When you buy a relay they come wiht simple woring diagrams to tell you which terminal is "input", which is "output" etc. Hope that helps some more Gary

That shouldn't change the fuel rail pressure, it only affects the flow from the pump. I thinks it is more of a noise reduction effort than anything else, so you can't hear the pump when sitting idling. :idea:

Dimensions please, particularly flanges.

How wide are they? And how much do they weigh? What tyres are on them?