Sydneykid

Steve the people that I want to know, know. The problem is if I tell EVERYONE, I will get hundreds of retail calls. As you know, I am not in the retail business, I help some people out, particularly when they have an interesting problem, but that's it. I already get 30+ PM's per week and I reply to every single one. I don't make any money out of it, I don't charge anything, I don't have anything to sell. I made the mistake about 3 years ago on another forum, one that I have lots of experience in, more than Skylines in fact. But I got pestered so much I had to change my phone number. I no longer contribute to that forum. I don't want the same to happen here. I promise you this, next time I am in Perth with the race team, I will drop in and pay you a visit. I know where you are in Welshpool, just up from the Leach Highway. Will I need to bring a body guard? :uhh:

The internals of the R32/R33 GTR gearbox are basically the same as the R33 GTST gearbox. The GTR box won't work in RWD as the transfer case drive, extension housing, output shaft are all different. We are up to 650 bhp and 3 years on a R33 GTST box, no problems. Without the loading from the extra traction and weight of the 4wd, the R33 GTST box is pretty much unbeatable for Skyline 2wd application. Hope that clarifies

I have done the flow tests, what would you like to know? Let me start the ball rolling, we saw none, zero, zilch, not one cracker, nothing, SFA improvement from testing the GReddy plenum on a GTR inlet and cylinder head at airflows equivalent to 750 bhp. So if you spend your $1500 on a Greddy plenum and I spend my $1500 on something else, my car will be faster until we get to 750 bhp. And even over that the difference is nowhere near as significant as $1500 worth of other stuff. Put it simply, personally I have demonstrably better ways to spend my money.

You need to be careful, it is not the same getting 200 rwkw out of an RB20 as it is out of an RB25. Most importantly the RB25 turbo flows 10% more air at 7 psi than the RB20 turbo does at 10 psi. The extra 500cc's is important, but nowhere near as import as the turbo. Then you have VVT on the RB25, not on the RB20. So the mods that get you 200 rwkw on an RB25 won't get within 25 rwkw of that on an RB20. So you have to do more, and the turbo is where I would start as it is always going to be the first weakness that limits you. It limits you from both a power and reliability perspective. You have to run more boost and this means ineficiency, higher shaft rpm and extra heat are generated. Hope that clarifies.

Around 85%, so very marginal. That's using a GTR fuel pump and an adj fuel pressure regulator with above standard rail pressure. So I guess he really needs to add those to his list. The 200 rwkw was around 6,750 rpm, we are at 225 rwkw now at 7,100 rpm so it sounds about right.

Standard they have 2 brakes lines per wheel on the front, one goes from the inner guard to the upright and the other from the upright to the calliper. I replaced mine with a one piece braided line. It has a plastic hoop around the line that attaches to the upright. Saves 2 fittings and the extra labour to make. I have compared a number of supposed ADR approved braided brake lines, the only extra I can see is a plastic sleeve over the line that extends about 15-20 mm out from the fittings. This is there to spread the flex loadings that would otherwise be localised at the fitting. Other than that there are no other distinguishing features, the braided hose itself is made by the same manufacturers, as are the fittings. Some I have seen have a tag on them with numbers on it, but it is just like a dymo label and falls off/fades very quickly. So last time I had some braided lines made up I asked for plastic sleeves to be used at the fittings. Both sets together cost way less than one set of supposed "ADR approved" braided lines. The two cars fitted with them have had pre rego checks and both had no problems. Hope that helps

Hi fatgtsr, there is an endless list of possibilities. Throttle angle sensor, map sensor, water temp sensor, ignitor, coils, plugs, faulty wiring etc etc. As far as I know the GTSR has a Consult port, my first step would be to plug one in and run through all the diagnostics and check the sensor calibrations while driving. Your local Nissan dealer should have a suitable Consult or check with Impakt he has a made a few..... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=42617 Hope that helps

The standard lambda sensor does nothing at large throttle openings, under acceleration. Constant speed cruise and idle are the closed loop parameters. Almost all RB20/25/26's run rich when you run more boost, fit a FMIC, upgrade the exaust etc. If it is truly leaning out, then I suspect fuel supply problems( pump, filter, fuel pressure regulator). A fuel pressure check on the dyno will identify this. My recommendation, have the base igntion timing checked and get a power run done on the dyno and look closely at the A/F ratios and the fuel pressure. That will tell you what the potential problems are. Go to a club dyno day and it will cost $50 or so, the best money you will spend. Hope that helps

Hi Yamaha227, assuming that Race Pace checked the fuel rail pressure at the time of tuning, then fuel pump, fuel lines, fuel pressure regulator etc are all irelevant. The only thing that makes an injector run at 100% is the ECU and that means the tuner programmed it that way. So either the tuning is excessively rich or the injectors do not flow enough. Without a rwkw number it is a bit hard to comment further.

Personal experience, 200 rwkw out of the standard RB20DET turbo is possible, but reliability goes out the window. A standard RB25DET turbo with the RB20DET wastegate actuator does the job OK, but even then you are close to ceramic in the cat disease. So personally I would add turbo to the list.

You really need to read this post I prepared earlier.... SAFC only adjusts A/F ratios in pretty broard steps (8 in the current version) wiht extrapolation algorithms filling in between. It does NOTHING for igntion timing, in fact in many cases an SAFC makes the ignition timing problem worse. Firstly a quick, simplistic explanation of how an SAFC works might help... As the airflow into the engine increase, the AFM records this as increased voltage that the ECU sees. What an SAFC does is sit in between the AFM and the ECU and take the voltages from the AFM and either increase or decrease them depending on what you have programmed the SAFC to do. By increasing the voltage, this tricks the ecu into pumping in more fuel, you do this when the engine is running lean. By decreasing the voltage, this tricks the ecu into pumping in less fuel, you do this when the engine is running rich. The next bit is hard to understand unless you remember that the standard ecu does not supply fuel in direct proportion to the afm voltage ie; 4 volts is not twice as much fuel as 2 volts. Engine rpm, boost and throttle position also help the ecu determine how much fuel to add. It has been my experience that RB25's run a little lean down low in the rpm range (Nissan do this for fuel economy and emissions) and a lot rich up high (Nissan do this to protect the engine). So I have to increase the voltage (using the SAFC) up to around 3,000 rpm (part throttle especially) and decrease the voltage over 5,000 rpm (full throttle). The real problem is in the 3,000 to 5,000 rpm range as the engine comes on boost. They really need lots of fuel very quickly in this area. This can mean that you need to increase the voltage (that the ecu sees) over 5.1 volts to get the right A/F ratios. The ecu then goes into engine protection mode, rich and retarded (sounds like a girl I knew once) . Past that rpm you can start leaning it out as it runs too rich, so the voltage needs to be turned down under 5.1 volts. The ecu sees this as the engine not needing protection mode any more, no more rich and retarded. It is not unusual to get good performance up to 3,000 rpm, then sluggish from 3,000 rpm to 5,000 rpm and then good performance from 5,000 rpm and over. The SAFC may not help this, in fact as explained above, it can in fact make it worse if the tuner is not switched on to this stuff. With bent afm voltages, the ecu (tricked by the SAFC) also fires the ignition to suite the airflow it THINKS the engine is getting. This is not a good thing as you generally end up with ignition that is too far advanced in some rpm ranges. The poor tuner has to juggle the SAFC settings, so that the A/F ratios are OK, the ecu doesn't get into rich and retard (engine protection) mode and the ignition timing is not too far advanced so as to cause detonation. My experience (I am not a good tuner) has been that this is full of compromises, sometimes you just can't win and have to reduce the boost level a bit to get even a reasonable compromise. Keep in mind that this explanation is very simplified to make it fit in a reasonable space, the rpm's used are rough guides only and every car is different. Hope it helps (and makes some sense).

Bolts onto the top of the shock towers.

Let me make sure I have this right........... The front 3 pistons are damaged because there was ceramic dust in the oil. How did it get there? Past the rings in the rear 3 cylinders. Down into the oil, picked up by the oil pump. Then through the oil filter. Hang on, let's stop right there... How does 100+ micron dust get though a 10 micron oil filter? (For those that don't know a human hair is ~140 microns). :freak: Let's move on..... Assume by some miracle it makes it through the oil filter, then gets sprayed via the oil squirters onto the bottoms of the pistons then onto the bores. Then gets past the rings and onto the top of the pistons. :freak: Was there any ceramic dust in the bearings? Ceramic dust would rip a bearing to shreds in seconds. The oil flow at the main and big end bearings is far greater than the oil scrape of the bores. Was there any ceramic dust in the oil filter? Have you had the pieces on the pistons spectro analysed to ensure they are the same material as in the ceramic turbines? Have you had the oil analysed for ceramic contamination? On the race GTR that put the ceramic in the cat, I had the oil analysed by Castrol to make sure that the bearings were in good condition. Absolutely nothing to do with the turbine failure, that's not why I had the oil tested. I was simply following our normal procedure for checking a recently rebuilt and run in engine. There was not a single trace of ceramic in that oil. And it finished the race on one turbo, drove onto the trailer and into the workshop. Bottom line, I still remain extremely sceptical.

The knock level warning is adjustable, have a look at the Commander when the dash warning flashes. That will tell you how big the problem is. If the warning is set at 30 and it goes to 31 then don't worry, if it goes to 90 then I would be looking for a reason. You should also note that the dash warning light comes on for other reasons than knock. The Commander readings will tell you what it is. We get dash warning flash due to the rpm limiter (ignition cut) and, as meshmesh suggested, when the twin plate clutch rattles. Hope that helps

The one in picture below.................

Doesn't amtter what type of boost controller you run, if the turbo can't supply enough airflow to hold the boost level it will drop as rpm increases. Changing boost controllers won't fix this, only a higher flowing turbo will. Sometimes removing restrictions will help a lot eg; better flowing intercooler and/or exhaust. Hope that helps

Don't know about "more modern", whilst all those things are regularly used in competition, so is water cooling. Super Tourers are arguable the most advanced form of sedan racing, ours has twin 4 spot callipers (2 on each wheel) and they have provision for watercooling. The engineering data shows they used watercooling on a number of circuits in England and Europe. It is an extreme measure though, and very costly.

Hi BU5TER, it is only a "rule of thumb" minimum. If the engine is not using its airflow efficiently then the AFM flow rates are accurate. An "efficiently" tuned engine, with the right parts balance, will exceed the minimum. But if I used that, too many cars wouldn't make it, so I would much rather be conservative.

No, I'd say that is pretty conclusive proof that is wasn't the ceramic tubine pieces that scored the bores and damaged the pistons. Because personally I believe it is IMPOSSIBLE for the rear turbine ceramic pieces to; *travel down the rear dump *into the engine pipe *down to the Y joint *then do a u'turn (against the exhaust flow from 1, 2 and 3 cylinders) *go up the front turbine engine pipe (against the exhaust flow) *up the front turbo dump (against the exhaust flow) *past the intact front turbine (against the exhaust flow and rotation) *up the front exhaust manifold (against the exhaust flow) *past a partially open valve (against the exhaust flow) *into the combustion chamber (against the exhaust flow) *and find its way into all 3 cylinders Ceramic has low mass for size, that's one reason why it is used in turbines, so it losses it velocity very quickly. Particularly when faced by air travelling in the opposite direction. I have seen this sort of piston damage many, many times, generally from not running air filters. I would say this engine, sometime in its life, ran with no airfilters or had compressor damage that found its way into the engine via the inlet tract ie; with (not against) the airflow. Conclusion, I am totally unconvinced.

There is no difference, R32, R33 and Z32 AFM's are all 80 mm.

I don't understand, how come my black car gets much hotter is summer than my white car? :cooldance

I reckon the RB26 top end is easier, no vvt to worrry about.

Hi guys, here are my posts on this subject...... I have seen 8 X RB's with ceramic turbine failure, 2 X GTR's, 3 X R33 GTST's, 2 X R32 GTST's and 1 X R34 GTT and none of them had any ceramic anywhere other than in the cat. There wasn't any in the turbine cover or in the dump or in the engine pipe, it was all in the front of the cat. Blown there by ~200 cubic metres per second of ~600 degrees celsius exhaust gas, that's better than my Stihl leaf blower. Maybe if you were spinning at the time and the engine turned backwards, you might get some sucked up into the manifold. Of if you where starting the engine at exactly the time the ceramic failed and it coughed and ran backwards. I don't think so, Tim -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I am truely intrigued. If the engine is a single turbo (GTST) and is doing say 5,000 rpm, has standard cams, is a 6 cylinder 4 stroke of course, the numbers mean the ceramic has ~0.4 milliseconds to travel from the turbo to the bore. That's out of the turbine cover, up the inlet manifold and get past the exhaust valve while it is open and sucking (not exhausting). Part of that journey is against the exhaust gas pressure from the other cylinders. I could work out how many kph that is, but suffice to say it is way past the speed of sound. I could see a GTR maybe doing it with aftermarket cams (longer overlap) at lower rpm's. A straight/shorter exhaust manifold would help. And if you heard the ping and shut the engine down, maybe. Possibly that's why I have never personally seen it, we just don't have GTR's (or GTST's for that matter) with upgraded cams/manifolds and standard turbos. Plus they always let go at big rpm on the circuit, at full throttle and the drivers don't back off either. Very interesting........... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The turbine blades should never exceed the speed of sound, the mini sonic boom would destroy them. So I don't think speed is the answer. Maybe they let go big time and then shed little bits of ceramic over the next few times the engine is started. When you fire it up to put it in the workshop, on the trailer, stuff like that maybe would be a problem on a GTR. It certainly isn't a problem on a GTST, I have seen one driven 200 k's home after a turbine failure, it only had ceramic in the cat. I know because we took the head off while the turbo was being done and did some porting and polishing. It was clean as a whistle inside. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Put money where mouth is, I currenty have a Stagea with a ceramic turbine and I am not in the slightest bit worried about ceramic going anywhere but in the cat. Hope that helps

If it's a GTR you really need 2 X AFM's to match the ECU requirements. So I take it you are asking if you should run 2 X Q45 AFM's or 2 X Z32 AFM's. Well the answer is in the table, if you are intending to run more than ~800 bhp then 2 X Q45 AFM's would be my recommendation. If you are intending to run less than ~800 bhp then 2 X Z32 AFM's would be my recommendation. If you want to run the 2 X Q45 AFM's on the road, the engine will need vary carefull tuning. Two 90 mm AFM's do not have very much airlfow at low rpm to meter, so they are tricky to tune. If you have big cams they get even harder. You should also be aware that getting a "Y" inlet (to connect 2 X AFM's to 1 X turbo) for 90 mm AFM's can be tricky. I have only ever seen one. On the other hand a "Y" inlet for 80 mm AFM's is relatively easy to get. Greddy, for example, have them off the shelf. Hope that helps

Ours is blue, so I pinched the blue one, naturally :wassup: