Sydneykid

Nothing unusual there, I see that sort of stuff all the time.

I take everything Julian Edgar says with a grain of salt. Having read a lot of what he has written over the years I can say I believe that he has some weird agendas. That article was published many years ago and I have personally tested the mods out on the road and the track. All it does is make the GTR understeer all the time, maybe this made him feel safer, but it just made the GTR slower. This was particularly noticeable around the circuit. I am not the only one with that opion, the article has been discussed and dismissed by many people. It is also worth noting that the car involved was Julian's own and he sold it shortly after and has done nothing but whinge about it ever since. Maybe he has tall poppy syndrome, because he appears to like nothing better than knocking down icons. My opinion anyway

You will have to ask PMC, I really have no idea what they charge. The Trust kit is very simple, it extends the sump downwards (reduces ground clearance) and has an extended pick up and a cylindrical baffle. It increaaes oil capacity by ~1.25 litres. The PMC sump we use has wings (so it does not reduce ground clearance) out both sides with one way doors and baffles. It does not need an extended pick up. It increases oil capacity by a bit over 2 litres. In funtion there is really no comparison, a winged and baffled sump is by far a superior solution. Hope that helps

All very logical Rev, Shootout mode does have barometric pressure and relative humidity compensation as well as the more obvious ambient temperature and inlet temperature compensation. So, whilst not as good as our climate controlled engine dyno cell, it's a lot better than nothing.

A changed engine number is sometimes easily detected, while an altered chassis number is usually very easy to detect. When the numbers are originally stamped they obviously show on the surface, but they also deform the metal underneath quite deeply. The ultra violet and dye methods show up this deformation, despite what is restamped on top of it. It is good technology and has caught out a lot of car thieves. Hooray for that, hang the b'tards I say. :Bang: It is very effective on cut and shut and altered chassis numbers, but sometimes not so good on engine numbers. It really depends on how much is machined off the number stamping area. Chassis number are stamped on fairly thin surfaces, in fact you can see the numbers from the other side on many cars. This is not so with engine blocks as the area is quite thick. In addition, aluminium blocks show engine number changes much better that cast iron ones as they are softer and the stamping therefore goes deeper. But new engine blocks don't have any numbers, so there is no "original number" to bring up. Stamping of damaged block numbers on replacement blocks is of course completely legal, otherwise Nissan (and the other manufacturers) would not be able to sell new blank blocks. Hope that is of some help.

This is like Groundhog Day I feel like I keep repeating myself over and over :headspin: , there are at least 3 threads on this subject going at once. So here is one I posted over there .... Haven't you guys ever heard of Refinery Sharing? There is not one refinery for every brand in every city, so the petrol companies share. You really need to check out your local supplies. Just because it says "Shell" on the servo doesn't mean that all the petrol sold there came from a Shell refinery. In Qld, WA and SA, Shell don't have 98 octane enabled refineries, so my understanding is they buy it from BP. Being Kwinana in WA and Bulwer Island in Qld. In NSW and Vic it is the reverse, the refinery at Clyde produces something like 25% of Australia's total petrol and the Geelong refinery produces about 50% of Victoria's petrol. Mobil have 2 refineries in Australia, at Altona in Vic and Adelaide in SA. Only Altona is 98 ron enabled and it produces ~13% of Australia's fuel. In comparison Adelaide is a small refinery, doesn't have the technology to produce 98 ron and is currently not operational. So my understanding is; In Qld, WA and SA all Optimax, Ultimate and Synergy is refined by BP In NSW and Vic all Optimax and Ultimate is refined by Shell In NSW Synergy 8000 is refined by Shell In Vic Synergy 8000 is refined by Mobil As for Caltex/Ampol, the company owns and operates two fuel refineries, one at Kurnell in Sydney and the other at Lytton in Brisbane. Neither of them are 98 ron enabled. So I will leave Vortex out of further discussion. Bottom line, I don't think you can say that Optimax is this and Ultimate is that and Synergy is something else, it really depends on from where it is sourced. I have told this to a number of people and some doubt it and quote all sorts of reasons why it can't be so. My answer is go to....... http://www.bp.com.au/refineries/refineries...es.asp?menuid=d and read up on Refinery Sharing. Hope that helps

I saw an RB30DET with an RB20DET engine number the other day, well well. :headspin: I guess it's OK, when you buy a new block from Nissan, it comes with no engine number. The idea being that you put the engine number off the old, damaged block onto the new one. PS; Just don't forget to machine off the RB30 cast into the side of the block.

Have a talk to Ice Performance they do lots of Attessa upgrades.

The SuperTourer uses a similar concept for its water, engine oil, transmission oil and engine air inlet. They are all staged so that each one gets fresh air ie; not preheated by another cooler. The V8Supercar is similar but not as sophisticated. Works a charm but it is really a pain in the ass to engineer and fabricate, and it makes simple maintenance a real chore. Like try changing a radiator hose :Bang: In an extreme racing situation it is certainly worth doing, but on a road car? Personally I think it's more for "rice" than anything else.

Thanks Steve, I might just use an SAFC for the moment and then when you have done a Stagea I will upgrade to the Wolf. SAFC's are easy to sell.

Hi Ed, woooohooo that's a bit beyond my expertise. Whilst I have built a few audio amps and other stuff, I stay away from sticking a hot soldering iron inside an ECU. Maybe some of the electronics guru's on here might be more up to speed.

Hi Steve, if you can convince me that the shift quality and gearbox durability will not be affected at all in the Stagea , I will buy a Wolf from you tomorrow. I have been holding off on the usual SAFC option (for fuel tuning) looking for an answer for ignition timing tuning. I have tried cars with all manner of piggy back ecu's, Power FC's, Emanage, Exede etc. I have yet to find one that even comes close to the standard shift quality. Since the Stagea travels around the country with 1.7 tonnes hanging off the back, I can't afford gearbox durability issues. The Stagea has/will have the usual RB25DET mods for around 200 awkw (high flow, FMIC, exhaust, split dump, panel filter). If you have a set of Wolf maps that will do the job, I will buy them off you as well. PM me if you want to proceed.

The pump is driven using flattened areas on the usually round crankshaft. Like this (there is a flat at the top but I can't draw it on this thing) (_) The "late" RB26 cranks have bigger flats and a larger diameter crank (in that spot). So you can easily stick a donut on the "early" crank and then stick the "late" oil pump on the donut. The donut has small flats on the inside and large flats on the outside. Works perfectly. You can buy donuts separately, Jun make them amongst others. Hope that helps PS; I have not pulled a Neo so I don't know whether is has the late or early. But I have see nothing about it being different from the early RB25 cranks. Since the mod was race required, I suspect it was only GTR's that needed it.

A quick test is to disconnect one of the sway bar links, either side doesn't matter. Pretty ususual to bend a spring steel bar, they just spring back after a hit. What are the rear measurements? If you have a sagged rear on one side it sticks the diagonal front up in the air. What are the wheel alignement settings? If it has too much or not enough (uneven) caster you get height differences. A little more checking, the answer is there, just gotta find the right question.

Nope checked that out a while ago, it moves the gearchange points around. It doesn't do a thing about ignition timing and cut on the gearchanges.

I have read all the posts (several times) and I haven't seen anything that explains how the Wolf handles the igntion cut/retard on gearchanges. The standard auto ECU has this feature to make the gearchanges smooth and lessen the torque shock on the transmission. I have an auto Stagea and would really like to change the ECU but not at the expense of shift quality and gearbox durability. So can you please enlighten me?

It's a Dyno Dynamics, and before you ask, no we don't run Shoot Out mode. We are a race team and so we must have consistent results. It is in a climate controlled room to add to the repeatability. There is absolutely no interest in anything but consistency, we would be deluding ourselves otherwise.

We have 3 dynos, an engine dyno, a 4wd hub dyno and a 4wd roller dyno. Not bragging just answering your question.

Ahh "V" mount, actually a ">" mount, with the intercooler at the top (usually) and the radiator at the bottom. The idea is that they both get fresh air, unlike an FMIC where the radiator gets air already heated by the intercooler. The intercooler exhausts out through the bonnet and the radiator exhaust (as per standard) around the engine and out under the firewall. It also shortens the intercooler pipework considerably, in fact if you do it right you can almost mount the intercooer straight onto the turbo and the inlet plenum. Usually to mount them in the ">" formation you need; 1. to remove the radiator support panel 2. a bonnet with a large vent 3. a suitabe intercooler 4. a suitable radiator with special radiator hoses 5. a radiator water header tank (to get the air out, as the radiator is mounted lower than the engine) 6. many hours of fabricating brackets, mounts, pipes, ducting as nothing would be off the shelf. Have I turned you away yet?

Hi riggaP, I agree dynos are a tuning tool, but they are a pretty useless tuning tool if you don't get consistent results. I mean how else are you supposed to know whether or not you have achieved a gain or not with your latest mod or the tuning effort itself? Don't try the 1/4 mile test, that's even more inconsistent. I was at Easterns Creek last week and it was blowing a gale, easy knock 0.25 of the time and 8 kph onto the top speed with that sort of tail wind. Not to mention track surface, temperature, humidity etc etc So my rule is simple, find a dyno shop that gives you good service, knows what they are doing and charges reasonably, then keep going back. It matters not whether their dyno reads high, low or spot on, as long as it is consistent.

Haven't you guys ever heard of Refinery Sharing? There is not one refinery for every brand in every city, so the petrol companies share. You really need to check out your local supplies. Just because it says "Shell" on the servo doesn't mean that all the petrol sold there came from a Shell refinery. In Qld, WA and SA, Shell don't have 98 octane enabled refineries, so my understanding is they buy it from BP. Being Kwinana in WA and Bulwer Island in Qld. In NSW and Vic it is the reverse, the refinery at Clyde produces something like 25% of Australia's total petrol and the Geelong refinery produces about 50% of Victoria's petrol. Mobil have 2 refineries in Australia, at Altona in Vic and Adelaide in SA. Only Altona is 98 ron enabled and it produces ~13% of Australia's fuel. In comparison Adelaide is a small refinery, doesn't have the technology to produce 98 ron and is currently not operational. So my understanding is; In Qld, WA and SA all Optimax, Ultimate and Synergy is refined by BP In NSW and Vic all Optimax and Ultimate is refined by Shell In NSW Synergy 8000 is refined by Shell In Vic Synergy 8000 is refined by Mobil As for Caltex/Ampol, the company owns and operates two fuel refineries, one at Kurnell in Sydney and the other at Lytton in Brisbane. Neither of them are 98 ron enabled. So I will leave Vortex out of further discussion. :Bang: Bottom line, I don't think you can say that Optimax is this and Ultimate is that and Synergy is something else, it really depends on from where it is sourced. I have told this to a number of people and some doubt it and quote all sorts of reasons why it can't be so. My answer is go to....... http://www.bp.com.au/refineries/refineries...es.asp?menuid=d and read up on Refinery Sharing. Hope that helps

Rear Steering is not your friend, the first thing I would do is lose the HICAS. Get rid of that fidgetty rear end, that makes you worry that it's going to let go. Tell you friend that the race GTR's never ever ran the HICAS, that usually seals it.

Common, you know that's not true, I can get perfectly consistent results running a DD not in Shootout Mode. After all, I can set the parameters exactly the same as Shootout mode, the only difference is that they are locked and displayed. That does not mean that they are not set correctly. I believe that the Shootineers Code of Conduct is far more important to consistency than a piece of software. Sorry, that might sound a bit harsh, but I am getting a bit tired of DD shoving Shootot mode down everybody's neck as if it's the be all and end all of dyno's.

Hi Roy, I'll dig around and find a V8Supercar brake ducting picture and post it up. Until then.... They have 2 ducts for each wheel. They both feed off the hole at the side of the radiator inlet. One duct goes to the centre of the disk via a fadricated steel vent that is attached to the upright, so it goes up and down with the suspension. The other duct is also attached to the upright but it points at the calliper. The disks are full floaters of course, but the same principle applies to a one piece rotor, they have the inlet to the vanes on the inside. As for Skylines, we don't find brake temperature to be much of a problem. As previously posted I always remove the backing plates both front and rear. We use Hawke carbon pads in the blue compound, so they work very well up to 700 degrees C. At the end of a 20 to 30 minute race the limiting factor on stopping is tyres ie; the braking power still exceeds the grip of the tyres. We run flat undertrays and they have alloy deflectors that help direct the airflow, from the lower inlets on the GTR N1 front bumper, to the inside of the front wheels. Not ducting, more like a fence. Crude but effective, if you point an air hose into the vent, you can feel the air come out through the front wheel. Hope that helps

Ahh no! Ball bearing, water cooled turbos in all R32/33/34 GTST/GTT Skylines. Tooling by Nissan (hence no A/R's), R32/33 made by Garrett and R33/34 made by Hitachi.