Sydneykid

I actually think tuning (SAFC or even better Power FC) should be next on your list. I believe if I took a standard RB25 and just swapped turbos (and did nothing else) the spoool up would be later, it is a bigger turbo after all. Anyway "spool up" is not a very good description, what I can say is the R34 GTT makes more power EVERYWHERE with the mods, than it did when standard. It makes more power off boost because of the tuning, exhaust, porting, inlet, filter and cams. It makes more power on boost with tuning, turbo, exhaust, porting, inlet and cams all helping there. It's a package, it will only ever be as good as its weakest link. Hope that helps

You could try the "saving money line", it goes something like this... "I really need to get a wheel alignment, the tyres are wearing out, $200 once to get the geometry fixed is better than spending $1,000 on new tyres all the time". It usually works, mostly because its true.

Help me out here Ian, this is a picture of the three types of RB injectors. The one on the left is the R34 GTT injector style, the one in the middle is the R33 GTST injector style and the one on the right is the RB20/26 injector style. Is there a fitting kit you can buy that let's you fit the RB20/26 style of injector into an RB25 Neo? If so what brand, how much and where do you get it?

Good question Roy, the cores are a Garret standard part, as are the compressor, turbine, seals and gaskets. Assuming Garrrett quality is consistent, the only variable is the machining of the covers and balancing. We have had 3 now and they all perform much the same, the engines are different (RB20, RB25 and Neo)so I can't really say that they are EXACTLY the same. I will be putting the one off the RB20 on an RB25 shortly so that might answer that question. I know, we need a turbo dyno, sorta like a backwards flow bench............

Stick with the top feed, half the rpice and heaps more choices. But R34 GTT's have small holes in the inlet manifold to suite those skinny injectors. There are a few more brands making injectors for R34's now, shop around.

I am not a fan of the Trust sump extension, it reduces the ground clearance too much for my liking........... For any circuit work I personally prefer wings and one way gates, and not much lower than standard. The extra capacity (~2 litres) comes from the wings and the and surge resistance from the one way gates. It is technically a better solution. Performance Metalcraft do a good one.

Hi Sparki, Tomei have a range of camshafts they call Poncams, they make really a good set that work with the VVT on RB25's, best I have seen so far. Fairly mild duration at 256 degrees on R33's and 260 on R34's (they have solid followers) with the highest lift you can run and not touch the valve springs and cylinder head. If it's tuned right, there is nothing wrong with >300 rwkw. But they get a bit peaky and laggy at that power level for my liking. I find around 250 rwkw (as you suggested) to be a good all round power level. Hope that helps

It's the REARS that are different, the fronts fit no problems. GTR's have a fork at the bottom of the shock with the bush in the upright, while GTST's have a bushed eye at the bottom of the shock. Just in case you are going to ask, R33 rear shocks are different lengths to R32's as well (much longer). R34 GTT's are the same as R34 GTR's, I guess Nissan eventually gave up on the idea of keeping GTR stuff so it only fitted on GTR's.

I prefer the ball bearing core hi flow, some turbo shops do a plain bearing hi flow. It's cheaper, but I'd pay the extra for balls and water cooling every time.

Yeh luke they are good, hey? Much easier to use than the old donuts, I always stuff up at least one cut on them. They are mandrel bent and GCG sell them, plus they have a lipper onsite. So it's a breeze to plumb up you own pipework, just choose the bends, get them to whack the lips on them to stop the hose slipping off. Grab some straight silicone pipe and few clamps and play assemble the jigsaw when you get home. No welding necessary.

Ours has new DBA rotors (not slotted) front and rear and unknown (but new) pads. It stops pretty good for an automatic 1,650 kg lump. Handling wise, as I said in my previous post; Std Springs = OK Shocks = Bilsteins with extra grooves to adj height Fix Roll = Stabiliser bars Turn in and light steering = more caster + Check wheel alignment after lowering to see if camber adjustment needed. I might try one of those nifty torque split controllers like we have on the race GTR's. They are fun to play with, if somewhat confusing when you also have adj stabiliser bars, adj shocks, numerous spring rates, adj camber and adj caster. Makes my brain aches just thinking about it. :headspin:

Not unusual, it depends on how deep the valve seat inserts were inserted and how much cut the seats had on them. Even across all cylinders is import otherwise you get differing combustion chamber volume and therefore different compression ratios.

Whatever you would like it to be, I think it's bad value for money either way.

We have an R34 GTT that makes 265 rwkw using a GCG ball bearing hi flow of its standard turbo. It has what I call a full bolt on kit (no internal mods though); Tomei 260 Poncams Split dump Hi Flow Cat (very hi flow) 3.25" exhaust Pod filter Heat shield CAI (big one) R34 GTR standard intercooler Ported with polished combustion chambers (cc matched) Tomei injectors Tomei fuel pump Power FC with boost controller Low/rear mount exhaust manifold (like an R31 GTSR) Electric fan OS Giken twin plate (very light chrome molly flywheel) Oil cooler It runs 1.3 bar (all the time, none of this hi/low boost crap) Fitted over 2 years ago, done 50,000 k's and still going strong. Did an 11.9 at 120 mph on Goodyear Drag Slicks last year. I am not enthused by drag racing, so I only run when I have too. I have tried a couple of turbos on it and this one is my favourite for daily driving, bit of circuit work and the occasional drag session. Hope that helps

Ask who?

Please warpz0r, where did you buy each piece from?

$50 or so.

For the sake of this discussion let's say they are superior, so it's a question of is this superiority worth the extra cost? If they are to be considered superior in this context they must produce more power (both max and average). So how much more power? Is it 10 kw? Maybe 20 kw? Probably not 50kw, so lets say ~30 kw. Since you can get a few pretty nice looking ones for $1,000. That means, is ~30 kw worth $1,000 more? Personally I can think of a whole pile of things I would much rather spend my $1K on that will get much more than 30 kw. So in the "bang for buck" test they fail my scrutiny.

1.34 hp = 1 kw 1.36 ps = 1 kw 1.015 ps = 1 hp

We use the 415-X001 Commander with our R32 GSTS Power FC. That's the same modle of Commander as; R32 GTR R33 GTR R33 GTST S13 S14 S15 Toyota Supra (most models) RX7 Honda Civic Honda Integra Mitsubishi Lancer EVo's (most models) I think you could safely say it is the THE most popular Commander. I am sure if you really wanted one you could get it overnight air freight.

That's for Mick to design and make them from scratch, I only got him to do the welding because our fabricator was really busy making a new rear end for the RX7. Next time I think I will use these instead of donuts, cost a bit more, but a better job I think....

Yep, you left off console, pedals (you have to change the brake pedal, as well as add the clutch pedal), clutch master cylinder, speedo drive, tail shaft, gear lever, spiggot bearing and probably a few more incidentals.

Improved Production for modified cars and Combined Touring for close to standard cars. This is the web site for Improved Production in NSW, it has the dates for races and meetings. I suggest you pop along to a race meeting and have a look. The guys are always keen to talk about the class and the cars. www.ipransw.com.au

Time for a decent wheel alignment, if it doesn't already have them, I strongly suggest a set of Whitleine camber adjusters (bushes) front and rear.

Thanks to J, I had this nifty Tomei alloy block style firewall flex stopper on hand. So last night I fitted it up to the Stagea, it lines up nicely with some unused holes (wiht captive nuts) on the inner guard so it only took a few minutes to fit. I took a quick drive before hand and stomped on the brakes a few times pretty hard. After fitting I did the same and you can feel the pedal is firmer under a hard push. I wouldn't spend up big on one, but if you find one at the right price its definitely worth doing.