Sydneykid

Yep, the turbo is not big enough to supply sufficient airflow to hold 13 psi at high rpm. So you get a good result up to around 5,750 rpm and then it drops off in airflow. Also you get heated inlet air due to the turbo operating outside its efficiency range, which robs even more power. Plus you are rolling the dice on turbo life, it really is a no win scenario

I don't think they have an emmissions test cell in the Act. So I suspect that all they will do for an engine swap inspection is check the numbers and make sure that nothing is stolen. Since you are putting a much "cleaner" current generation 2.5 litre engine in car that came with a 1986 "dirtier" 3 litre engine, I don't think there will be a problem. Best answer, ask the inspectors what they will be checking.

Worth a try, first job is to list his mods side by side with yours. If there are too many differences it is usually better to staret from scratch (ie; the default Apexi maps).

Hi guys, very interesting and I have a few questions (how unusual :wassup: ); 1. The PFC Excel software needs a dongle (or equivalent) to talk to the PFC, is that correct? 2. There is a "gate keeper" chip in the PFC that needs to see a dongle before it passes data. So you replace that chip and "open the gate" is that right? 3. All versions of the PFC Excel software are available, but not the dongle. I have seen a number of dongle copiers in Singapore, KL etc. Has anyone tried to copy a PFC dongle? 4. Is there only one dongle type, or does every type of PFC have a different dongle? 5. The Datalogit software accesses the PFC and can change everything the PFC software does, but it gets there via a different route ie; not via the "gate keeper" chip. Is that right? 6. You can't use the PFC Excel Software and get it in via the same route (bypass the gate keeper chip) as the Datalogit uses, is that correct? 7. The cost of materials and labour might add up to almost what a Datalogit costs, maybe? Nothing good is ever simple, but always worth the effort.

First this is do a reset to the default maps, it under "Settings" on the Commander. That will clear what ever program was previously loaded and restore the standard R33 maps from Apexi.

Hi K, R32 ECU's are really no different than the other ECU's of its vintage. It's a simple chip swap to one that is tunable. Chiptorque, Unichip, Dastek and other worldwide suppliers support the R32 ECU (most Nissans of the same vintage use the same ECU protocols). I suggest you do a search for you local dealer. You could of course buy a chip from Australia and then any decent dyno operator would be able to tune it. For them it would be the same as tuning a Ford, BMW, MB etc of the same era. There are number of suppliers in Australia and New Zealand who, if you tell them your mods, will burn a chip for you. Not quite as accurate as real time tuning on the dyno, but many people in remote areas have good success with them. Priced from a couple of hundred Australian dollars they are an acceptable (and cheap) alternative. Check the forum for suppliers. The fuel and ignition maps are emminently tunable, far more than you can achieve by bending the input signals via an Emanage. Aside from that there are a number of other parameters that you can change, idle target, acceleration enrichment, rev limit etc that the Emanage can do nothing about. Hope that is of some help

There are two types of RB26 crankshaft, let's call them "early" (R32 and R33) and "late" (R33 and R34). The RB20, RB25 and RB30 cranks are the same as the "early" RB26. So if you have an "early" RB26 oil pump then it will fit the RB20. If you have a "late" RB26 oil pump it won't fit, but you can buy an adaptor ring. Jun make them amongst others. Hope that helps

Mate he was soooooo far behind, I leasurely changed lanes and drove along at the speed limit. Still took him a K or so to catch up. Subaru Forresters are also fun, they keep looking in the rear view mirror wondering why this strange waggon is keeping up. KEEPING UP, huh I was looking for room to go around. And then there was 4 guys in 2 WRX's that got whiplash when I went in between them in a roll on at the lights. I have been having so much fun.

*R32 RB25DE has no VVT, R33 RB25DE has VVT. *The RB20det APE PFC runs the standard RB20DET injectors which are high impedance (13-14 ohms). *Match the loom, the sensors and the ECU and you won't have any problems. *It doesn't matter if you use a VVT ECU with an engine that doesn't have VVT. Just make sure you use the same model loom, sensors and ECU *We have an R32 GTST loom, sensors and ECU on an RB31DET with RB26 top end. I just made sure I used the same model loom, sensors and ECU. Got it?

If I spent $1,500 on a turbo upgrade and you spend $1,500 on an inlet plenum I'll bet my car is faster.

HiGTST89 a couple of quick tests will rule out the possibilities. #1 Does the radiator water go down over time? If not then it's not a head gasket leaking water in to the combustion chambers. #2 Check the spark plug colours? If they all are the same colour then unlikley to be rings. Unless he has really bad luck and busted all 6 at once. Hope that helps

Can't be more than 50%, ATTESSA hydraulic pump locks up the clucthes to the front wheels, rear wheels are always solidly connected. So at max pressure best is 50/50. Try it on wet grass. When turned off Stagea spins rear wheels for a bit and then feeds some torque to the front wheels and drives off. When turned on, it just drives off straight away, no waiting. Very handy as the rear doesn't step out in the snow and ice. Not much use to me, no snow and ice in Sydney. Could be handy in the pits with the trailer on the back when it's wet though. The old Foulcan used to sit there spinning it's one rear wheel. Had to get towed to the sealed pit road once at Bathurst, very embarassing. Just one more reason for choosing a Stagea

On the R32 GTST, I designed the alloy pipework so that it fitted straight up to the standard steel pipework, starting from where the standard intercooler was removed. If you look at it from the engine bay it is impossible to tell that an aftermarket intercooler was fitted. No "cutting" was required, so I can't see any reason why there would need to be any on the Stagea. There is heaps more room in there. But I won't know for sure until I remove the Stagea bumper bar and get into fitting it. Hope that helps

Yep, that's why I originally used it on the R32, it was easy, quick and cheap (as in free) and the pipework only took me an hour or so to fabricate.

They are internally the same, so there is no real "difference". I suggest you have a look at a GTR gearbox, simply "removing the transfer case" is not an option.

Yes but more expensive than tuning the standard ECU, that's the big advantage of R32's, tunable standard ECU's.

The SAFC 11's can handle different voltage ramps from AFM's, it is a little tricky to set up and tune. But it does work OK, within the limits of SAFC tuning of course. I have seen a car running a Q45 AFM with an SAFC quite well, but that was a bitch at low airflows apparently. A Z32 AFM should be a lot easier. Bottom line, if you are TRULY maxing out the R33 GTST AFM, as in 5.1 volts for long periods through the RPM range, then your upgrade is way past where I would no longer recommend an SAFC. You have no control of ignition timing, in fact by using the SAFC to control fuel you are just making the igntion timing problem worse. What is cheaper $900 for a Power FC or $4,000 for an engine out and rebuild? It's your call

It's nothing special, it was an unused spare for a Production race car (a Toy... Toyo..... Toyot...... I can't seem to get it out). They had a "homologated" spec for racing, flows a bit better than the normal Supra one, but it really cools well. I have tried it up to 225 rwkw and it has a couple of PSI resistance, but I have plenty of PSI to spare, so it doesn't worry me. Best of all it's just sitting in the rack doing nothing, with all the pipework ready to go. Should only take a couple of hours to fit. If it doesn't come up to scratch, I have an standard R32 GTR intercooler I can use, but I don't have any pipework, silicone hose or clamps for it. I used them all on the R32 GTST. Plus I would only get carried away and make up a set of pipes with 120 degree bend at the throttle body. Then I would need to change the BOV and all the little pipes and fittings. It's a 2 day job to get it right, when all the time I should be working on race cars, not tow cars. Speaking of which, gotta go

I can see how you could have that opinion, but the problem as I see it is you have a 14 psi car that you are afraid to use for more than "the odd burst". You might as well not bother, you can't really use it. I would much rather drive along at 10 psi and know I can safely use it any time I like, for as long as I want. I would find it frustrating, as over any length of time or distance at 14 psi it would be ultimatley slower than a car running 10 psi all the time. But hey, whatever floats your boat

Yuko, look at the A/F ratios at 60 kph, no wonder ours guzzles the gas. :headspin: What mods are there, sorry I know you mentioned it in another thread but I forgot....

Hi Blackfink, Series V RX7 Turbo injectors are 550 cc's and fit straight in, no mods other than the plug, which needs a tweak. We use the Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator, the one that mounts onto the end of the fuel rail and replaces the standard FPR. They work very well, neat, easy to fit and adjust. Good value for ~$180 from Nengun. We use Bosch 044 fuel pumps once the GTR pump can't keep up. The price premium is so small you might as well have room to move with the larger pump. Hope that helps

Hi Luke, actually more like a pain in the ring lands. :shake: They do pump up because they go past the return oil hole so fast (at high rpm) that there simply isn't enough time to pump. :jump:

Hi, it's the lambda sensor that needs to be "fast and wide", the gauge is pretty much irrelevant. If the Greddy uses the standard lambda sensor then it's next to useless. The best way to tell is price, a really good F&W lambda sensor is around $800 on its own, so if the Greddy costs a $1,000 then its probably OK. If it costs $200 its probably not, well unless you buy a compatable F&W lambda sensor that is. Hope that helps

What's the exact wheel alignment specs? Also what is the measurement from the centre of the wheel to the guard on all 4 corners?