Sydneykid

Point the video camera at the Commander, slow motion/freeze frame play back is great for picking up stuff that happens too fast or the observer didn't notice.

Hi GTR- Ben, I am truely intrigued. If the engine is a single turbo (GTST) and is doing say 5,000 rpm, has standard cams, is a 6 cylinder 4 stroke of course, the numbers mean the ceramic has ~0.4 milliseconds to travel from the turbo to the bore. That's out of the turbine cover, up the inlet manifold and get past the exhaust valve while it is open and sucking (not exhausting). Part of that journey is against the exhaust gas pressure from the other cylinders. I could work out how many kph that is, but suffice to say it is way past the speed of sound. I could see a GTR maybe doing it with aftermarket cams (longer overlap) at lower rpm's. A straight/shorter exhaust manifold would help. And if you heard the ping and shut the engine down, maybe. Possibly that's why I have never personally seen it, we just don't have GTR's (or GTST's for that matter) with upgraded cams/manifolds and standard turbos. Plus they always let go at big rpm on the circuit, at full throttle and the drivers don't back off either. Very interesting........... You are right, ceramic is nasty stuff, makes great grinding paste.

I only sleep 4 to 5 hours a night, take a look at some of the times I post at. That's a tough call, average power makes more difference than the sinlge max power number and RB20's get narrow in their power band as you move up the max power ladder. I would think 200 rwkw would do it, but it might need 210 rwkw if the auto isn't transferring the power well. My experience (and I am not a drag racer) is the traction from 4wd makes more difference than the power losses by a good factor. Your target of 250 awkw is getting up there for an RB20. That's ~410 bhp, I have only ever seen 1 X RB20 make more than that and it didn't have standard internals. Ours makes 225 rwkw with good average power, it is tricky to get off the line and you really need to be paying attention to keep it firmly in the power band. The auto and 4wd will assist you there. Hope that is of some help

Hi rs73, clutch is irrelevant, as long as it isn't slippimg of course. Auto's seem to loose around 10 kw more than manuals, if the torque converter locks up solidly maybe a few less. And lastly, all dyno's are different and climatic conditions make a difference (not withstanding DynoDynamics good attempt with Shoot Out Mode). So your 184 - 138 = 46 kw is well within tolerances. Data source, we have run 2 X RB26DETT's on the engine dyno and then put them in the GTR and one RB30DET and put it in the GTST. Along with untold Holden and Chevy V8's (both big and small block). Plus over 30 Skylines (standard and modified) on the chassis dyno only. So I am pretty confident the data base is large and the results consistent enough to make a judgement. Hope that helps

$406 brand new from Nengun.

That's a good question mcnamg. I have seen 185 kw and 173 kw quoted for Stageas. I am going to run ours up on the 4wd dyno next week, while it is standard. I expect to see around 100 awkw. I will then drop the exhaust from the front of the cat and do a quick (and noisy) run to see what's in the exhaust upgrade. If I have time I will stick the Pipercros panel filter in and see what difference it makes at standard power, not much I expect. I'll post it up when done.

To me it looks to be too low on the efficiency island at 1.2 bar, really wants 1.5 bar to be working in its best range, that's around 43 lbs per minute (~430 bhp). But at 1.5 bar you run into surge problems at 25 lbs per minute (~250 bhp). It would take a pretty well tuned engine to operate in that range all the time. Ok for a race car but I would prefer something with a bit more of a surge free power spread for a road car. My 20 cents worth

My last one cost $380 including silicone hose and stainless steel clamps. I bought straight 63mm alloy off cuts from Capral and two 360 degree donuts from GCG. I cut the donuts to make 9 X 45 degree bends, 3 X 90 degree bends and 1 X 120 degree bend. I took the bits along to Mick (Mick's Metalcraft) and he welded it up for me.

When you put a car on a chassis dyno (roller or hub style) there are power losses, in the gearbox, the tailshaft universals, the diff, the driveshaft universals, the wheel bearings, the tyres and the rollers themselves. In a 2wd Skyline (like na R33 GTST) this works out around 50-60 kw, based on the cars we have tested. A couple of which we have also run up on the engine dyno confirm this. Obviously when you add a transfer case, front diff, front drive shaft universals, front tyres and the extra rollers you loose more power. Around 20-25 kw based on what we see with GTR's. So if you have a 280 kw engine, it will show around 220 rwkw and 200 awkw. I should point out that there are no "losses", Newtons law applies, "energy can neither be gained nor lost". So the 60 kw is not "lost" it is transformed into other types of energy, in the car's case that's generally heat. Hope that is of some help

My Suggestions; A. Sell the turbo timer, it's a waste of money and a good place for the thieves to power up and drive it away. It only idles the engine, if you have been thrashing what about brakes, gearbox, transfer case, diffs etc, turbo timer does nothing for them. Better to do an extra lap of the block and let the airflow help it along. B. Sell the BOV, it's an auto, there are better ways to spend your money. Nothing wrong with the standard one. What I am doing......... 1. Shock absorbers, gotta get some Bilsteins in there, the standard shocks are not so good when new and past 60k's are useless. Gunna stick a pair of Whiteline stabiliser bars on it at the same time. I will get some extra circlip grooves machined into the Bilsteins, so I get the height where I want it. The standard spring rate feels pretty good to me. And some adj radius rod bushes so I can add some caster, the turn in is lethargic and the steering too light. 2. Exhaust is always first on a turbo engine, I am doing turbo back with long split dump and high flow cat that I already have. 3. Pipercross panel filter, I already have one ready to go in. 4. Transmission cooler, the auto gets quite hot, so I am not taking any chances it's getting a large transmission cooler, now. 5. Boost controller, I have an Autospeed (twin Norgren valves) boost controller. 6. Normally it would be intercooler here, I don't know about you but the fuel consumption is over the top. So I might just stick the SAFC in early. 7. Intercooler and alloy pipework, I already have one off the race R32 GTST (it's getting a bigger one). 8. Time for the ball bearing high flow turbo, got one of those as well, off The R32 GTST. Target 200 awkw and 6,500 newtons. that should put a few victims in the rear vision mirror. :wassup:

We use Carrillos.

That could only happen if the oil pressure was higher than the valve spring pressure. Very unlikely at idle rpm.

Hi lukevl, bin a while since we dissagreed, so I'll jump in now... Am I reading this right... Because it seems to dissagree with this.... Doesn't this mean that the lifters must get both "shorter" and "longer" to take up the hot versus cold clearances? Or have I missed something

Hi Guys, be carefull, diesel turbos are not designed for the much higher exhaust gas temperature of a petrol engine. I have seen one die in under 5 minutes, the seals melted and it filled the dyno room with smoke (not from the tyres). :dump:

I worked it out as probably being in 3rd actually (21 kph/1000 rpm), but I shoudln't have to WORK IT OUT. It is supposed to be written on the Shootout Printout by the Shootineer. Hey Steve, isn't that a breach of the Code of Ethics? :Bang:

With a Datalogit you can tune it and perform data logging to your heart's content. Refer to www.datalogit.co.nz for the cost of the datalogit software. There are a couple of extra outputs from the Datalogit that might come in handy, we use the intercooler spray for example. There is really no comparison between an add on (piggy back) solution like an Emanage and a full ECU. Power FC = Full Computer. There is so much more you can do, if you want to. With the Power FC we bought last month, I chose not to have an Commander, the owner spent the money (plus a little bit more) on a Datalogit instead. I like the Commander though, it's great for quick diagnostics and it saves buying quite a few gauges. More to think about

I did and this is what I saw.......... Read that power graph carefully (note that it STARTS at 90 kph) and you will notice that it has LESS power up to 106 kph than a basically standard R33 GTST (refer 05YKO_r33 ‘s power graph in the same thread). By “basically standard”, it has an FMIC, 3” zorst (inc dump) and a boost controller, it has no fuel or ignition timing changes from standard and it runs a standard turbo. Ohh, it has standard injectors as well. :jk: That means up to around 4,000 rpm it's gunna gets its ass kicked by a basically standard R33 GTST. :throwup: Both power graphs are on DD's in Shootout Mode, just in case someone is interested. :wassup: So tangO, personally I don't think this turbo is for you.

I bought a Power FC for $900, last month and one this month for $1125, that's with the Commander and it came from Nengun. Power FC fitting was 8 minutes, remove LHS kick panel, unplug std ecu, plug in Power FC and drive to dyno. As for tuning, I seriously doubt that anyone could fit and tune an Emanage (fuel and igntion) faster than a Power FC. So fitting and tuning together would be cheaper or at worst maybe the same. I will be very interested in how you get on though. I have an auto Stagea (so no Power FC) and I am looking at an Emanage for it. Please post up the results.

Oh I thought it must be an auto cause you chose an Emanage over the cheaper Power FC, sorry.

That's the method, it realies on the tensioner spring to pull the belt in to its correct tension, kinda like a tension wrench. I do that, but then make sure the belt has about 10 mm of movement side to side in the middle of the long run. I have seen them soooo tight you could play violin tunes on them. :headspin:

Have you got an auto?

A GCG "bolt on" means "don't have to change anything". Don't confuse that with "bolts up to the exhaust manifold and dump". If you buy one of those you will have to buy or fabricate an inlet to the compressor, a compressor outlet, oil supply lines and water supply lines. As they say oils ain't oils, Sol.

Wow, a full kit, or "set of kits" in Emanage speak. How much did it cost, if I can be so rude?

We use Whiteline. www.whiteline.com.au

That's a long way to drive ot work every day, tangO. Did you also get the "don't blow up the coils" kit? And the "turn the engine warning light off" kit?