Sydneykid

Ask Whiteline.

I take them off everytime, every car I have owned has had them removed. Race car or road car they're gooooooone! :wavey: PS; The front ones unbolt easily, but the rear ones are a bitch. I cut them off with the air saw, makes it pretty hard to put them back.

Are you using the standard top (rubber) rear shock mounts? There is a crush tube to stop the nuts on the shock shaft from being overtightend, are they being used?

Many years ago we did run a Commondoor with an RB30ET with an RB20 top end (cylinder head, manifold etc) . Huge improvement over the single cam, 2 valve RB30 head, made 80 bhp more, same turbo etc. So it's not THAT bad, super cheap too. About 4 years ago we did the RB25DE top end on the RB30ET, that was a good thing. It made 475 BHP on the engine dyno with standard internals, all up cost $1,200. Most of what we do now is RB26 top end on RB31 (forged) bottom ends. It's the best value for money big power upgrade. It's all releveant to where you are starting from and what size your wallet is.

HiBen, the wiring harness is different, RB26 has air temp sensor and 2 X AFM's. ECU is different of course. I assume you meant use an "R33 GTST" gearbox. If you did mean GTR gearbox then you will have floor pan problems, they are different. Engine mounts and front subframe as well. I was going to do the RB26DETT upgrade with our R32 GTST, but I found the RB31DET to be cheaper and more effective. For example I could keep the R32 GTST wiring harness and RB20DET Power FC as well. There is more than one way to skin this cat

HiMarkO this questions is asked so often it feels like Groundhog Day. I suggest you do a search of posts on "Overboost Protection" by "Sydneykid", you will find the full story there. In particular you should read the posts on "SAFC" and overboost protection. Hope that helps

My guess, freer flowing FMIC means more airflow. More airflow is detected by the AFM and signalled to the ECU which is going into rich and retard (engine protection) mode sometime erroneously called "over boost" protection. You don't need extra boost to get it. Just my guess of course, based on about 10 Skylines I have seen do exactly the same thing.

Well yes, as long as you don't have to rev the RB30 to the same rpm as you would the RB25 to get your 370 rwhp.

Interestingly I have seen more power than when they were in the RB25DET. I believe it is because the rpm to make that power is lower, so the injectors can be open longer. An example, if I made 225 rwkw with the RB25 it would be at say 6,250 rpm. That means there is about 5/1000th's of second for each injector to be open. But if I could make say 270 rwkw with the RB30 at 5,100 rpm, then the injector could be open for 6/1000th's of second. This 1/1000th of a second longer time open means 20% more fuel, so that's why you can get 20% more power. Obviously engine efficiency makes a difference, but I suspect that probably adds to the advantage because a fresh (run in) RB30 is proably going to be more efficient than an RB25 with the usual K's on it. I have only one real world experience where we got 475 bhp out of the RB30 on the engine dyno. I have never seen more than the equivalent of 390 bhp out of an RB25 with the same injectors. That should stir up some comments I am sure.

Hi Iburkey22, am doing as J said, bringing the pipes back in the original location. The intercooler I am using flows top to bottom, not end to end like the usual Skyline intercoolers. So the intercooler inlet and outlet are both on the same side. It used to be in the front of our R32 GTST, and the pipes line up perfectly. It also looks like the bottom brackets will line up in the Stagea. The top brackets are completely different, but for the R32 GTST I fabricated my own anyway, so I will just make some more to fit the Stagea. Consequently I am probably not a good example for you. I will post up some picures anyway when I do it, it's a few weeks away though.

The engine turns clockwise, so if you turn the CAMS clockwise you are retarding. Each tooth on the pulley is 15 crankshaft degrees, count the marks for one tooth. Hope that helps

GTST's and they are quite streetable, not everyday and unless engineered, not legal either. As for budget, you won't get much change out of $30K for the necessary upgrades.

My 20 cents worth, richen it up NOW. Don't wait to buy some parts, 13 to 1 A/F ratio is more than I would consider running for 1 day. You don't need a FMIC or a plenum to fix lean A/F ratios. But if you don't fix the A/F ratios you are going to need a new engine, maybe tomorrow or maybe the next day. :Bang:

Helper (tender) springs are mostly used to keep the main springs captive and give extra extension so the wheels stay on the ground. So they contribute nothing to ride comfort. My sugest ion would be to put the rear springs in the front and buy a pair of 200 lb rear springs. For around $150 delivered its a good value upgrade. We buy our springs from Whiteline www.whiteline.com.au Hope that helps

Hi Nathan lots of questions, my suggestions follow; 1. Number 1 thing to remember is boost is irrelevant, airflow makes horsepower. Boost is a measure of resistance to airflow. I can have a turbo (or twins) that make 40 lbs per minute of airflow at 1 bar. I can also have another turbo (or twins) that make 30 lbs per minute at 1 bar. Number 2 thing to remember, the AFM measures the airflow into the turbo/s, not the boost out of it/them. I am not familiar with the "air/fuel ratio meter from auto gauges" but what I can say is if it uses the standard lambda sensor, then it is pretty much useless. It is what I call "slow and narrow". It only measures A/F ratios over a very narrow band and its response to changes in A/F ratio is very slow. So slow in fact that you can have heaps of lean spots while accelerating that go past too quick and the meter never shows them. If you are going to tune your car properly you need a "fast and wide" lambda sensor. That's what dyno shops use. 2. You can use twin AFM's or a single, since you have twin turbos it is probably easier (and more efficient) to plumb two AFM's. I would use two RB20 AFM's (80 mm) just in case one day you get over the limit of twin GTR (65 mm) AFM's. Plus you only have to buy one (cheap) RB20 AFM. 3. Not necessarily, but pretty likely. Standard RB20 injectors usually run out of flow at around 350 bhp depending on how solid the fuel pressure is. 4. As is said above boost is irrelevant, it's power (combustion pressure), rpm and poor tuning that kills engines. 5. There is no reason why you shouldn’t get the same power using GTR sized turbos as a GTR does. At 2 litres versus 2.6 litres it will be a bit more peaky and laggy though. Around 450 bhp is my rule of thumb limit for a standard internals RB20. You would of course have to do a few more things before the rest of the upgrades matches the turbos. Power FC or equivalent ECU upgrade would be on the list, as would cams, injectors and fuel pump. My suggestions for the next steps. #1 GTR fuel pump #2 Adj fuel pressure regulator, Nismo have one that fits on the standard RB20 fuel rail (replaces the standard FPR), Nengun sell them for ~$A150 (=not many Euros). You can sneak around 10% more fuel flow by increasing the rail pressure. I don’t recommend going any further than that. #3 96% on the AFM's is not an issue, upgrade when you get to 100%. I'd check the voltage wiht a multimeter first though, max is 5.1 volts. I have seen SAFC's record 4 volts as 90%, obviously not correct. #4 GTR injectors, you will need a resistor pack as well, to match the impedance for the GTST ECU. Hope that helps

Are you planning on using the standard inlet manifold and plenum?

Hi Chan, "Over boost protection" is what it is sometimes known as, but it is really "excessive airflow protection". The ecu makes this decision based on what the AFM is telling it. So boost really has nothing to do with it. The fix is an SAFC, voltage clamp, Boost Cut Defeater or better still replace the std ecu with a Power FC. Full fuel cut is the next step in engine protection programming in the ECU, but you get "retard" and "rich" first. Here is a post I prepared earlier that may help .................................................. .................................................. ... Hi guys, a quick, simplistic explanation of how an SAFC works might help... As the airflow into the engine increase, the AFM records this as increased voltage that the ECU sees. What an SAFC does is sit in between the AFM and the ECU and take the voltages from the AFM and either increase or decrease them depending on what you have programmed the SAFC to do. By increasing the voltage, this tricks the ecu into pumping in more fuel, you do this when the engine is running lean. By decreasing the voltage, this tricks the ecu into pumping in less fuel, you do this when the engine is running rich. The next bit is hard to understand unless you remember that the standard ecu does not supply fuel in direct proportion to the afm voltage ie; 4 volts is not twice as much fuel as 2 volts. Engine rpm, boost and throttle position also help the ecu determine how much fuel to add. It has been my experience that RB25's run a little lean down low in the rpm range (Nissan do this for fuel economy and emissions) and a lot rich up high (Nissan do this to protect the engine). So I have to increase the voltage (using the SAFC) up to around 3,000 rpm (part throttle especially) and decrease the voltage over 5,000 rpm (full throttle). The real problem is in the 3,000 to 5,000 rpm range as the engine comes on boost. They really need lots of fuel very quickly in this area. This can mean that you need to increase the voltage (that the ecu sees) over 5.1 volts to get the right A/F ratios. The ecu then goes into engine protection mode, rich and retarded (sounds like a girl I knew once) :boobies2: . Past that rpm you can start leaning it out as it runs too rich, so the voltage needs to be turned down under 5.1 volts. The ecu sees this as the engine not needing protection mode any more, no more rich and retarded. It is not unusual to get good performance up to 3,000 rpm, then sluggish from 3,000 rpm to 5,000 rpm and then good performance from 5,000 rpm and over. The SAFC may not help this, in fact as explained above, it can in fact make it worse if the tuner is not switched on to this stuff. With bent afm voltages, the ecu (tricked by the SAFC) also fires the ignition to suite the airflow it THINKS the engine is getting. This is not a good thing as you generally end up with ignition that is too far advanced in some rpm ranges. The poor tuner has to juggle the SAFC settings, so that the A/F ratios are OK, the ecu doesn't get into rich and retard (engine protection) mode and the ignition timing is not too far advanced so as to cause detonation. My experience (I am not a good tuner) has been that this is full of compromises, sometimes you just can't win and have to reduce the boost level a bit to get even a reasonable compromise. Keep in mind that this explanation is very simplified to make it fit in a reasonable space, the rpm's used are rough guides only and every car is different. Hope it helps (and makes some sense).

Motec agents/dealers sell fuel rail by the length, measure your standard rail and then take the Motec rail and your standard rail along to any machine shop. Nine holes later (three threaded), add brackets and it's done. There is no magic in a fuel rail, it's just a piece of pipe with holes in it. BTW I am up to 625 bhp on the standard RB26 fuel rail, I am about to change the fittings though. Fred also seemed to think the standard rail was pretty good, the Gibson boys changed the fittings and the lines to braided. But the rail itself is a standard RB26 fuel rail. Note that they ran a mechanical fuel pump with fuel pressure between 115 psi and 145 psi (depending on boost).

Standard rod bolts?

Check the shock top nuts for tightness, I find heaps that are loose.

My 20 cents worth.......... By the time you do the work to the RB25 cylinder head, it would be chepaer to buy an RB26 top end and sell the RB25. RB26's have a lot of other advantages, solid followers, valve springs, valves, collets, valve seats, combustion chambers, water jackets etc etc. Plus you have a much greater choice of cams at half the cost. Std RB26 cams are much better than std RB25's, if you want to save some money. Until you get over 750 bhp there is no reason to change the throttle bodies, waste of time and money for no good reason. Unless you have a crappy ECU that can't handle multiple throttle bodies and the complex MAP sensor signals they produce. No VVT on the RB26 cylinder head. Low 11's, with decent tyres and propper suspension setting I would be looking at a low 10. There area few R33 Skylines here running 9's with ~650 bhp, and you have a weight advantage on them. RB25 conrods are nitrided, shot peen just bounces off, doesn't do much. Waste of time, Geoff;'s suggestion of RB26 rods is much better. For the price of forged rods in the US, personally I'd be using them, build it once build it right. Hope that helps

295 cfm at 9mm lift, the Greddy manifold makes NO difference. ie; at that flow level the standard manifold and throttle body are more than "big" enough. Hope that helps

Hi xRHETTx, Emanage is an interceptor, it takes signals from the sensors and bends them, so the standard ECU still runs the engine. A Power FC (FC = Full Computer) replaces the standard ECU completely. There is no comparison, you will NEVER be able to do with an Emanage what you can with a Power FC. For an R32 you really should look at tuning your standard computer. A simple rewritable chip upgrade will give you everything the Emanage will, plus a bit more. The Power FC is another couple of steps up of course. So it really depends on your power target and what upgrades you intend to do. Hope that helps

I posted this on another thread, but I think it answers a few of Sly's questions; We have an R34 GTT that makes 265 rwkw using a GCG ball bearing hi flow of its standard turbo. It has what I call a full bolt on kit (no internal mods though); Tomei 260 Poncams Split dump Hi Flow Cat (very hi flow) 3.25" exhaust Pod filter Heat shield CAI (big one) R34 GTR standard intercooler Tomei injectors Tomei fuel pump Power FC with boost controller Low/rear mount exhaust manifold (like an R31 GTSR) Electric fan OS Giken twin plate (very light chrome molly flywheel) Oil cooler It runs 1.3 bar (all the time, none of this hi/low boost crap) Fitted over 2 years ago, done 50,000 k's and still going strong. Did an 11.9 at 120 mph on Goodyear Drag Slicks last year. I am not enthused by drag racing, so I only run when I have too. I have tried a couple of turbos on it and this one is my favourite for daily driving, bit of circuit work and the occasional drag session. Hope that helps

The turbine blades should never exceed the speed of sound, the mini sonic boom would destroy them. So I don't think speed is the answer. Maybe they let go big time and then shed little bits of ceramic over the next few times the engine is started. When you fire it up to put it in the workshop, on the trailer, stuff like that maybe would be a problem on a GTR. It certainly isn't a problem on a GTST, I have seen one driven 200 k's home after a turbine failure, it only had ceramic in the cat. I know because we took the head off while the turbo was being done and did some porting and polishing. It was clean as a whistle inside. Bottom line, I don't know