Sydneykid

and then buying a new turbo?

Hi Chris, I would be inclined to believe that the RB20 safe rpm limit is more like 8,000 rpm. Ours has been at 225 rwkw for over 2 years and we run it to the rev limited 8,250 rpm all the time. I would add heat to your list of RB killers, especially oil temperature. But by far the worst thing for R's is poor tuning.

Hi sweetr33, just in case you haven't seen or done the numbers for yourself, here is the comparison between a single 100 mm throttle body and the standard GTR multiple (6) throttle butterflies. Also following are some comments I wrote a while ago on this subject. Butterfly = 44/2*44/2*22/7 = 1,521 sqmm Spindle = 44 * 4 (from memory) = 176 sqmm = 1,345 sq mm each X 6 = 8,070 sq mm Compared to the big single..... 100/2*100/2*22/7 = 7,857 sq mm Spindle = 100 X 6 = 600 sqmm = 7,257 sqmm So, the standard 6 throttle bodies are 11% larger than one 100 mm single throttle body. But is this the right way to do the comparison? Since each cylinder fires individually (one at a time) then isn't each cylinder getting sole use of the 100 mm throttle body some of the time? Not all of the time because of valve timing overlap between cylinders and the volume of air contained in the plenum. So you would have to know the valve timing and the plenum volume and the engine rpm to work out each individual cylinders share of the 100 mm. My opinion (for what it's worth) is that the main reason the Japs go to a single throttle body is so they can use MAP sensor driven ECU's. Multiple throttle bodies and MAP sensors don't go together very well, especially when you have big cams and lots of boost. Over some LARGE horsepower number, there is probably an airflow advantage, but I have no idea how LARGE it is. What I can say for certain is there is far better throttle response for the GTR multiple throttle butterflies. Personally I have yet to see any power advantage from a 100 mm single throttle body and we are well over 625 bhp in our circuit race cars. I should also point out that the Brisbane Street machines R32 GTR runs 9's on radials with the standard GTR multiple throttle bodies. Hope that helps

Personally I'd go for the DBA 4000 slotted rotors, we use them lots, great value for money. I don't recommend drilled, unless you intend to change them often. Their web site www.dba.com.au has the dealers listed. You could start at you local Repco, Autobarn and SupaCheap and shop around prices do vary. Hope that helps

The fuel pump is rated at 73.5 psi, if you run 4 bar (59 psi) fuel pressure that only leaves 14.5 psi for boost. I think TT needs more than 1 bar of boost.

I have seen Power FC for Toyota autos, but never Nissan autos. I have no doubt the manual Power FC will run the engine, I have driven an auto R33 GTST with a Power FC. The engine runs perfectly, exactly the same as a manual R33 GTST. But the gearchange quality was crap in my opinion. It flared on up changes, swapped between gears under even load and the kick down was eaither lethargic (sometimes) or viscious (most times). All of these symptons are logical in light of the manual Power FC not having the programming logic for ignition retard and cut during gearchanges. I should point out that the owner was completely happy and was quite willing to sacrifice a "small amount" (his words, not mine) of gearbox niceness for the power he got from the Power FC and its tuning. So until the gearbox eventually fails from this excess loading, it comes down to personal opinion. I don't know that I would want to try and claim warranty on "personal opinion". Since I want to keep the standard gearbox niceness and life, retaining the standard ECU auto programming logic is a must. Unitil I find a guaranteed replacement ECU that is.

We only ever use copper plugs, iridium, platinum etc are only of use when you want long plug change intervals. The plugs never stay in our engines long enough. We run the BCPR7ES everywhere. I really can't say as I have seen any difference as a result of ambient temperature, and we have raced in 40+ degree weather. I guess when you have an ~800 degree explosion, 10 degrees either way doesn't make a lot of difference. Hope that helps

I think 2.4 litres compared to 2 litres (as per the Zoom test) will make a lot of difference. The GTR inlet system is designed for 2.6 litres, so you are not so far away from its design parameters. I reckon it's a goer and you should use it. I have a question though, why did you go away from the mutliple throttle bodies?

Hi xr8eater, the SAFC 11 current model from Nengun is $406. There really is no comparison, the type 1 SAFC only has 5 tuning spots and extrapolates in between them in a crude straight line. The current version has 8 load points for full throttle and another 8 load points for partial throttle, plus it extropolates via an algorithm so it gives a much more accurate A/F ratio adjustment. The big advantage for me is the separate part throttle correction, previously the tuner had to compromise the A/F ratios. Many cars were too rich at full throttle but just right or a little too lean at part throttle. So you had to choose a middle line when tuning. Plus I can now tune for fuel economy at part throttle and power at full throttle. This makes a difference if you are going to keep your car for some time, you may well save enough fuel to pay for it. If you do get the earlier SAFC, a tip, mark the spots where the knobs are turned to with white paint dots. They get bumped easily and it is a costly exercise to get the thing retuned. Hope that helps

I need a 2 tonne capable tow bar for the Stagea, so info on the supplier would be usefull. PM me if you don't want to post it up here.

My guess is the pipework to wastegate actuator has blown/fallen/dropped off. I suggest you take it back to whoever fitted the boost controller and have them fix it. In the interim don't drive it on boost. If you want to have one more go yourself, then you need to find the wastegate actuator. It's on the turbo, has a rod comming out of one side and a hose out the other. Follow that hose until you find where was blown/dropped/fell off from and reconnect it. Hope that helps

If the aftermarket gauge you have uses the standard lambda sensor, then there are a few things that you need to know first. The standard lambda sensor (in all cars not just Skylines) is what I call slow and narrow (S&N). They react slowly to changes in A/F ratios and only measure over a very narrow band of A/F ratios. So not only can the car go super lean very quickly and the read out not show it (the slow part), it can also be so lean that it is outside the measuring range (the narrow bit). On the dyno we use a fast and wide (F&W) lambda sensor, obviously this responds quickly to changes in the A/F ratio and it measures over a very wide range of A/F ratios. As usual, cost is the issue here, a F&W lambda sensor costs around 10 times as much as a S&W lambda sensor. When you start your car up from cold it runs rich, so rich that the standard lambda sensor does not measure that much richness, the gauge (relying on the lambda sensor) will simply go full rich or look like nothing is happening. As the car warms up, obviously it no longer requires a rich mixture to run, so you will get some reaction from the gauge. But it will move around a lot, because it is only measuring over a very small range of A/F ratios, like 11.7, 11.8, 11.9 12.0 etc. At light throttle cruise (no boost) you see lambdas around 14 or 15, some gauges have trouble showing this normal (lean) situation. A full throttle and climbing rpm, the lambda sensor will have big trouble keeping up with the changes, so treat the results with a lot of suspicion. At idle they normally work pretty well, as things happen slowly and the lambda is within their sensing range. Bottom line, if you want a useable A/F ratio gauge you really need to start with a F&W lambda sensor and then buy a gauge that can read it. Hope that helps

Ooops, not only will they be higher than the rears the GTR spring rate will be too high for a GTST. ~$100 per corner fitted, the rears are more important than the fronts as the dynamic camber change is greater. That's per pair, plus 10% GST for anything decent. Depends on how far the camber, toe and caster are out by. Around $150 should cover it. Hope that helps

Hi TT, we run the Series V RX7 Injectors, I had to buy 8 to get 6 good ones, good ones are had to find now. If you needed the extra capacity (560 cc's versus 420 cc's on our flow bench ) then it would be a better route that the GTR injectors. You don't need resistors to match them to the RB20 Power FC. The GTR injectors are good for around 265 rwkw, so they will suite your purposes perfectly. Get them cleaned and flowed as usual, there are variations as with all injectors. I always put the highest flowing one in #6, next in #5. Hope that helps

Are these GTR springs or GTST springs? If GTR springs in GTST, the front will be higher than the rears, R33 GTR has 200 kgs more weight, mostly carried by the front springs.

As Meggala said, go back over everything that you did and check all the air and electrical connections. If you can't find anything wrong, then put it back exactly the way it was before you installed the e-01.

Hi Troy, you are absolutely right about RB20's, for a whole pile of reasons there is very good argument that standard they are the STRONGEST RB. Lower compression ratio than RB25's, so they don't have the detonation propensity. Shorter stroke with very strong rods. Short stroke = shorter crank throw = lighter crank, so stronger crank given the same material and manufacturing processes. Large big end bearing sizes so lower lower surface tension for the same rpm. More metal around the bores in cylinder block and more metal around the combustion chamber in the cylinder head. No VVT to complicate the oil feed system. Not strength issues but RB20 advantages none the less are top feed injectors so easy to upgrade and the same inlet and exhaust as RB25 (ie; nothing lost there). Then there is cost, buying an RB20 is definitely cheaper than the other RBDET options. Really the RB20DET has many advantages and only one dissadvantage and that's capacity. If you can live with that, then there is no reason an RB20DET won't satisfy YOUR requirements. BTW; ours is up to 170,000 ks' untouched inside with 225 rwkw. So go for it.

The right decision A, let us know how it goes.

My real world experiences, we have 5 cars that use PULP and 3 of them see the dyno fairly often. I have used Ultimate and Optimax in each of them many many times, we have a very large Shell and a large BP nearby so the fuel is always fresh. In the last 6 months or so, the BP has had Ultimate, previously we used 100% Optimax. Since using Ultimate, I have never seen or felt any difference, on the dyno, driving daily, on the track, in the fuel filters when we replace them or on the spark splugs when we pull them. Bottom line; 1. oil companies refinery share (it's a fact) 2. additives don't change the basic supply (if it has excess sulphur from refining, it will have excess sulphur when it goes into your tank). 3. personally I can't see or feel any difference So we now buy according to the price when we need fuel, Tuesdays is cheaper at BP and Thursdays is cheaper at Shell. You can make your own judgement. PS; remember this is Sydney fuel, I have obviously not done this in Perth where Ultimate is demonstrably superior, both from a crude sense and refinery technology. I would always use Ultimate in Perth.

Yep, but the hot air comes up from the radiator and goes through the intercooler and out the bonnet (ie; hot air rises) On its way though the hot air heats up the intercooler. That never happens with a FMIC, the radiator is behind the intercooler and the engine or electric fan sucks the hot air from the radiator, away from the intercooler. In a > mount in traffic or stationary, the intercooler will quickly get to 90 degrees, which is the temperature of the air coming out of the radiator. It will cool down once you get moving, that why it is an OK setup in a race car. But a waste of time and money in a road car. Oh and you should see the damage if you have a slight front end tap, makes a real effenn mess.

Sorry Rev I am having a dumb attack, I don't understand what you are getting at there. Can you please explain it for me again.

Wrong oil filter :headspin: , that makes no sense either. If the oil filter leaked you would know about it, oil everywhere. It can only then get blocked, in which case the bypass kicks in and the oil stills flow at normal pressure. It just doesn't get cleaned. You can tell if that's the case by looking inside the cam covers, no filter = dirty scum. Compression test or leak down test tells you nothing about bearing condition. Noise is the best test, main bearings rumble like a heavy train on railway tracks. Big end bearings knock, like someone at the front door. As you free rev the engine the noise dies down and as you back off it comes back louder. Once heard it is unmistakeable. The other test is oil pressure, a good quality gauge will fluctuate with bad big ends. The needle flicks around as the oil pressure jumps as it feeds that crook big end bearing. I suggest you find an old mechanic, he doesn't need to know anything about imports. A big end bearing knock is a big end bearing knock. He will pick it in an instant because it used to happen a lot. A lot of young mechanics have never heard a big end knocking because it doesn't happen very often these days Hope that helps

Without airflow it would be a waste of time, the hot air from the radiator goes straight up into the intercooler. With a front mount thta simply doesn't happen as the engine fan draws the radiator hot air away from the FMIC. Which brings me to the next point, where do you put the fans?

If what you are saying is correct, it is hardley likely to be a big end bearing. RB's do not run big end bearings for no good reason. Oil starvation, poor oil quality or poor maintenance are the causes of big end bearing failure and you describe none of these. I would strongly suggest a re-diagnosis.

OK let's go with one example only, sulphur content. People tell you that Optimax has higher sulphur content than Ultimate. It rots your engine, destroys your paintwork, makes your car smell like a dunny etc etc. Well the reality is excess sulpher comes about from two related reasons. Firstly the source crude that you get and the cracker technology that you use. They are related because old technology crackers can't use low sulphur crude. Adding a few secret herbs and spices does not magically reduce the sulphur content. You have to upgrade the refinery (at a cost of many tens of millions of dollars), then you can use low sulphur feed and bingo you get lower sulphur content in the finished product. Since BP admit to using Shell refinered fuel in NSW, it is therefore impossible for BP fuel to have lower sulphur content than Shell fuel in NSW. Before the chemical engineers rip into me, yes I have simplified this down for the readers. Hopefully not too far for the experts. Make sense?