Sydneykid

What I am doing on the Stagea (same as R33) is building a scoop into the alloy radiator guide I am fabricating. The concept is that, as air comes in through the grill, it gets scooped up and pointed at the standard airbox inlet. Too hard to describe much more than that in words. When I have it finished, I will post some pictures on the Stagea forum.

This topic was quite interesting on another thread. But it was off topic, so I thought I might start one over here. The story so far.......

Remember that an R34 GTT starts out with ~20kw more than an R33 GTST. :Paranoid:

Hi Daiso, lots of questions; I have seen a couple of 350Z with RB26's in them but they were 2wd. They are designed for a V6 so just fitting the in line 6 in the engine bay is not easy. It doesn't bolt up to the 350Z gearbiox either. The floor pan, front suspension and engne location would make fitting 4wd very expensive and extensive. If you are looking at Toyota chassis then you would be better with an engine that simply bolts in and has the turbo/turbos on the right hand side of the engine. Say a 1JZ, 1.5JZ or a 2JZ they bolt straight into the SC300, GS300 and IS300 and numerous Supra models. We don't as yet get G35 here, they are pretty much the same layout as the 350Z with a V6. So the same problems exist in fitting an inline 6 in them plus they don't have with 4wd. That might come with the new GTR, one day. I think the S14 240 is the go, the RB20/25/26/30 conversion is common in the US, there are quite a few shops who can supply the kits, engine mounts, radiators etc My 20 cents worth.

Sounds normal to me Bass, when you change gear the boost escapes via the BOV. This removes boost pressure from the fuel pressure regulator and it drops the fuel pressure in the fuel rail accordingly. I have no idea what this means though... "Two stage" I wonder what he means by that, the fuel pressure varies with boost so it has "multiple stages". The fuel pump has 2 voltage levels, maybe that's what he means. :cooldance

I agree with Bass, I know it is obvious but you never know. The CAS is connected to the camshaft itself, not the camshaftpulley. It looks like the CAS is connected to the pulley but it's not. I have seen very experienced mechanics make this mistake. If you retard the camshaft 4 degrees, you retard the ignition timing 4 degrees. So everytime you adjust the cam timing you have to reset the igntion timing with a timing light. If you have been watching and he hasn't used a timing light to check the ignition timing then that's your problem. :spcartman Hope that is of some help.

Moved to http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=52266

Excellent post Warpspeed, I would only like to add one little bit to the above para.... The Gibson GTR's ran the standard plenum and throttle bodies and the only engine dyno sheet I have seen showed 640 bhp at 1.9 bar (28 psi). So if 13 years ago they could get it to work perfectly, run 1,000 kms at race pace, up and down MtPanorama, surely it is not stretching the imagination for us to do the same now. Just the ECU improvement alone is light years ahead. :burnout:

Moved to http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=52266

Yes Yes R33 GTR, yes You can use an 044 in tank, a bit tricky to fit in the brackets, but works fine. You can run it external, in series with the standard pump if you want. Either way you will need a relay, the standard wiring harness won't handle the extra current. Yes Yes What are you doing about the wiring harness for the Autronic?Hope that helps :burnout:

I usually start at zero, that's REAL zero after allowing for cambelt stretch plus any head and block machining. But I always head towards advancing the inlet and retarding the exhaust first. :burnout:

The Tomei Poncams 256/260 in GTST's haven't needed timing adjustments in my vast personal experience of 2 cars. But the Tomei's in GTR's ALWAYS need adjusting. As someone else posted, advanced 2 degrees on the inlet and retard 4 degrees on the exhaust is a good place to start. :burnout:

That's if you fill it when the light comes on. It should go 520 k's before it stops. Stagea's are too heavy to push, so I'll continue to fill up when the light comes on. :Paranoid: Funny story... A friend of our's daughter (just on P Plates) was driving home from Uni when the fuel light came on. So she stopped immediately and called the NRMA. :elaugh:

Hi Tony, the fuel pressure regulator is not really a "cork to stop flow" its more like a flood gate that opens to bypass the flow.

Hiinark, I would suggest more caster is a better option than increasing the negative camber.

Hi Tony, I have replaced a number of fuel pumps with both larger and smaller capacity pumps and not had to tune the car. If there are no pre existing issues or problems, the tune should not change one little bit.

Oh I feel so humble, baited breath was it? :cuddle: Standard pressure is 36-38 psi at idle, you don't need a dyno to check that, just a fuel pressure gauge. Pressure whilst under load (has boost) can be checked by jacking the car up and running it against the brake (hand and foot) for a quick burst. The fuel pressure should stay the same at 36-38 psi above boost. So if you get 10 psi boost, the gauge should read 46-48 psi. Don't do it for too long though, the brakes and water temp don't like it. Fuel filter is just a check, I have heard of so many Skylines lately with old, unchanged, dirty fuel filters causing bad running. They are such a cheap item, often overlooked for more exotic hardware, that can hurt you. Hope that helps

You are already at my rule of thumb limit for the stock RB25DET internals. So regardless of your inlet preferences, you need to upgrade the rods and pistons before proceeding.

If you are going to quote me, please do it accurately, I said . I never would say I INVENTED it, simply because I didn't. Firstly let me suggest you go back and review your own posts. Next, are you really saying now that you put the Greddy plenum on and your without retuning it? You didn't touch the fuel or ignition tune?My argument is simply this, what if you had spent the $1500 on a better turbo? Or cams? Or head work? Or a better exhaust manifold? Might you not have gotten an even better result? This thread, like a lot on here, has a strong value for money element and a question of timing. WHEN should you do it, as well as, WHAT should you do. What I am saying, as I always do, is choose the item that gives the best bang for buck and eliminates the current weakest link. In this case, my assertion is that it is a waste of money upgrading a plenum if the current weakest link is the camshaft timing and lift, for example. What I am NOT saying is you should NEVER upgrade the plenum, because that is obviously ridiculous. There comes a time where it is the best value for money and where the standard plenum is the weakest link. But most cars on here never reach that point, so it would be waste of money and quite plainly wrong to suggest otherwise. Unless you do it for the rice value of course and that is an entirely different argument :jump:

I would check the fuel pressure at the rail under load. Changed the fuel filter lately?

Has anyone ever put anywhere near 68 litres in their tank? The light comes on and it's full with 45-50 litres. Is the fuel warning light on really 20 litres before empty?

Try Earls or Motorsport Connections.

Centreline or Traction Tyres in Melbourne are the go.

Hi Blitz, I am sorry if you are offended by reasoned discussion, well at least my half of it is. I know from experience that you can put two circuit race engineers in a room and they will both have differing opinions on many subjects. I had 2 of them in heated argument last weekend over whether Penske or Ohlins were better. What am I supposed to do? If I stay silent, it is taken as agreement, if I put forward a rational argument , I am accused of bickering. :freak:

Let me apologise for this post before I start, but regular readers will know why.... Paul where did you get the term "average power"? From ME, that's where you got it from, I introduced that terminology to this forum. Before I explained it, you didn't even know what it was. You didn't even know why it was important, much the less how to calculate it. Don't bother, I have the posts to prove it. So don't try the , without even trying I found 20 on here that shoot on it from a great height.Let's get down to facts..... I simply don't believe you, show me the before and after dyno graphs and prove that the ONLY change was that from the standard manifold to the Greddy. You and I both know you can't make that claim, you changed lots of things, not to mention tune at the same time. Maybe Steve's brilliant tuning gave the increase in midrange and it would have been even greater with the standard inlet manifold. Time to apologise again for this post, but sometimes ya just gotta say it. :fart: