Sydneykid

Each squirter has a spring loaded valve inside that only opens when the oil pressure increases ie; when the rpm rises above idle.

My suggestion is to have the turbos rebuilt with steel turbines. If you choose the N1 spec turbine and compressor and have them fully serviced, you will get your money back easy when you sell them.

No AFM's, running off MAP sensor?

Personally I reckon a turbo timer = a waste of time and money. What about the rest of your car? Have you got a brake timer? Or a gearbox timer? How about a diff timer? Chances are if the turbo needs cooling down, then the rest of the car does as well. How much cooling actually goes on with no air going through the engine bay, sitting there idling away? I just do an extra lap of the block and cool the whole thing down. Plus turbo timers a great place for the car thieves to hook into your ignition circuit. My 20 cents worth

Sorry I don't understand, on the Commander it is under settings and boost control. I leave the Commander in that screeen and set the boost control up on the dyno and then on the road. I have no idea why you would want to hop in and out of the menus all the time to change the boost settings. I mean how many times are you going to set up the boost control, in 3 years I think I have done it twice. Maybe it's me, I simply don't enjoy playing with the "toys", I actually prefer to drive the car.

Hi Troy, the Power FC assumes that the base timing is set correctly, if it isn't then you get what you describe. This is what I do, set timing with timing light, make sure CAS is ~central in the bolt holes. If not, then the exhaust camshaft pulley is one tooth out on the belt. Fix that, so that the CAS is ~central at 15 degrees BTDC at idle. Then tune the Power FC ignition maps on the dyno. To check, I reconnect the timing light and make sure that at around 2,000 rpm the timing, as indicated by the Power FC, is the same as that showing with the timing light. Hope that helps

AAARGGGG, excessive piston to bore clearance. Sounds like this is going to be expensive to rebuild, either new pistons or cylinder liners. :headbang:

It might be worthwhile having a look at the suspension as well, it doesn't matter how good the tyres are if they are not in contact with the road surface.

Hi Dave, let's start off with a race car is the sum of all of its parts, not just the springs. Secondly Australian racing circuits are not smooth, they have bumps and ripples, joins and large ripple strips. The fastest way around a circuit can not be compromised by dodging the bumps or not riding the ripple strips. So we need springs that can absorb bumps without throwing the car off line, not 1 mm. To control roll we use stabiliser bars, to control the dive under brakes we have anti dive geometry in the front suspension and to control the squat on acceleration we have some anti squat geometry built into the rear suspension. The stabiliser bars are of course adjustable, this enables us to tune the handling very quickly and in long distance races allow for the rear weight reduction due to fuel usage. You can't do that with springs, they take time to remove and replace and can not be "adjusted" on the move. The most important part of the suspension on a modern saloon race car is shock absorbers. These days, not only do we have separately adjustable bump and rebound damping, we can independently adjust the high frequency and low frequency damping for both bump and rebound. Plus we can change the gross compression valving so we can ride the ripple strips, the we have 5 way adjustable dampers. So the concept of a modern race car is to have the softest spring rate that will still hold the car up and then use bars, dampers and geometry to achieve the ultimate result. We are lucky down under, we have a long history of inexpensive, good quality, aftermarket stabiliser bars (courtesy of KMAC and SELBYS) that other countries simply don't have. Plus we have a lot of European influences in sophisticated shock absorber valving (courtesy of Koni and Bilstein). The Japanese are deficient in those areas, so they rely excessively on springs to do everything. As everyone knows you can't do everything properly with only one tool. So to improve the handling of cars equipped with Japanese coil over kits, the first thing I do is check the spring rates. Most times they are way too stiff, quite often you can get a good improvement by changing the rear springs to the front and buying some more appropriately rated rear springs. A cheap fix for under $200 inc fitting. Then I add appropriately rated stabiliser bars, adjustable if you want to fiddle, fixed if you want to fit and forget. The most important thing is then to get the suspension geometry (camber, caster, toe, anti squat and anti dive) right so that the maximum contact patch of the tyre is maintained. Moving onto bracing. Front strut brace is always good idea on a Skyline, rear strut brace not so important. Rear subframe o'rings (pineapples) are good for adjusting the anti squat and also for removing the mush in the rear suspension caused by the soft cradle bushes. Lastly HICAS removal, HICAS is not your friend, I always remove/disable it. There are plenty of posts on how and why. Hope that helps

Something is wrong with the piston to centre of crank measurement. As Steve says the Arias pistons have the right cut out for the squirters. The squirters can only be installed with one orientation, there is a pin on the squirter body and a hole in the block. They have to line up when you assemble it, otherwise you can't screw the through bolt in. So the piston is travelling too far down the bore, this could be little end bearing damage, big end bearing damage or bent conrods. I have seen one or more of these break a squirter off, I haven't seen all 6 though, that's unusual. The broken bits of squirter have possibly been sucked up by the oil pick up and damaged the oil pump rotor. I suspect it will have all been trapped by the oil filter, but maybe not. Bottom line, it really needs a full pull down and inspection and a proper rebuild. I would not consider anything less. Good luck and I would really like to know the final outcome

The R33 is rumoured to be a bit better but I haven't seen it. I suspect it is the same, because the transfer case is pretty much the same Yes Yes YesThe engine ecu talks to the ATESSA ecu which uses hydraulics to change the preload on the clutch pack which alters the amount of drive to the front wheels. Again I think the auto and manual are the same I don't think you can do/know/buy EVERYTHING before you start, I suggest you get the major/known items and just get on with it. Sorry I don't know that, but I suspect it will be different. You need to have both diff ratios the same. So you either use 2 X GTR diffs or 2 X Stagea diffs. I would say so. Not sure what this question means, ratios as per above. Centre (as in LSD) unlikely to be the same but I don't think it matters.Personally I would use as little GTR stuff as I could, then if I find a deficiency later on I would upgrade that part. If you just go heavily into GTR stuff everywhere, you will end up spending more money than you need to. The best way, if you really want to transfer everything would be to buy an accident damaged R33GTR and swap over all the parts, that would be cheaper than buying bits one by one. Regardless of methods, if you change it completely (as in every single part) it would have been cheaper to buy a 260RS. The best way is to do the important/essential stuff and ignore the "nice to have stuff". There is a young NZ guy on the forum whose father has done an RB26 transplant into an N/A manual Stagea, he may be worthwhile talking to. Hope that helps

The job of a spring is to hold the car up, the amount of preload is determined by the spring rate and the weight of the car tha teach spring has to hold up. An example might help.... If you have say a 1,300 kg skyline with 3 kg/ mm springs in the front and 2.25 kg/mm spring in the rear. The front weight distribution is ~60%, so that's 780 kgs divided by 2 = 390 kgs per front spring. That means to hold the Skyline up, the front springs need to compress 130mm (390 / 3). The rears would be 520/2/2.25=115 mm. Note that this difference front to rear (130 vs 115) is quite normal as all the variable weight is in the rear, stuff like fuel in the tank, passengers in the rear seat, luggage in the boot etc . Just in case it helps some more, a standard Skyline springs is ~350mm free height (out of the car). There is around 25mm of preload to hold the spring in the seats on the shock. Hope that makes sense

I set approximate ride heights first, with a Skyline (and most road cars) you can never get equal weights on all 4 wheels. The front is heavier than the rear, you can't change that with spring heights. On a GTR the right hand side is heavier than the left hand side. Then when you put the driver in, the right hand side is heavier again. A car is kinda like a table with 4 legs, if you have one leg shorter then the others the table rocks. This is unstable, every time you turn the steering wheel the chassis rocks easily to that unloaded wheel and then goes firm. Just like the table you get diagonal pitching and a sudden stop. The higher the spring rate the more sudden the stop. Since you can't change the front to rear weight spread, or the right to left, what you are trying to achieve is to get the diagonals equal. Generally when you get a Skyline perfect on the diagonals, the fronts are prety close to the same, wit hthe left hand side a bit lighter. But the right rear (where most of the drivers weight goes) is always heavier than the passengers rear. Hope that helps

Yep, you just break into the fuel line from the standard pump to the engine and put the the 909 in series. The larger pump will remove the pressure from in front of the standard pump, consequently with no resistance, it will flow much higher. So the the flow rate to the engine is determined by the last pump in the series. You will need a relay of course. Hope that helps

Hi JH, I have numbered your questions as it makes answers easier... 1. But then the wastegate would be too small, but since the formula is based on the airflow from the turbo, that is not possible. Well, unless the turbo is too big, but as I said before it doesn't matter what size wategate you put on, if the turbo is too big you will have lousy response anyway. 2. Changed the wastegate from a 55 mm to a 38 mm and no more surging boost. The guy was told "you can't have too big a wastegate". :zap: 3. Up to the target boost (set by the boost controller) the wastegate is closed, so what size it is is irelevant. So too large or too small, makes no difference to boost build. 4. A wastegate will open according to the pressure applied by the wastegate actuator, but if it is too large it will bypass too much exhaust. If it doesn't bypass too much exhaust, then obviously it isn't too large. If it bypasses too much exhaust then the boost will drop, when the boost drops the wastegate actuator will close and the boost will rise again. Note that this is accomplished by pneumatic pressure, it is not instantaneous (like electrical switching). So you get surges of air pressure travelling through small pipes that consequently take time to open and close the wastegate. Hence you get surges in boost. 5. 260 X 1.34 + 90 = 410 bhp 410 / 11 = 37 37 / 20 *19 = 35 mm wastegate Hope that helps :Party:

No problems Kent, for about a year we had 1 X GTST pump in the tank supplying a surge tank and 2 X GTR pumps supplying the engine. Just needed a relay, good earth and + supply from the battery, the standard wiring wouldn't handle the current. :Party:

Install or tuning?

I agree with Geoff, I have 9000's on the wife's car (not a Skyline) and it is amazing in the wet.

79K's

I left the the R34 GTT of the original list because it hasn't done that many k's. It has 265 rwkw and it's coils packs are std, maybe I am just lucky with them. On the race cars we use a Motec CDI with Mercury outboard coils packs, because they are designed to work with CDI's multiple discharge.

Hi Abo Bob, I have chosen the SAFC for the Stagea. I see no advantage in the Emanage, as I am not confident in its ability to carry out ignition tuning and at the same time maintain shift quality and gearbox durability. In addition I have looked at a few dyno A/F results and the SAFC does as good a job, if not better than the Emanage at fuel tuning. So I am going to spend the saved money on something that will give a measurable improvement, an adj exhaust camshaft pulley and a hi flow cat. Easy choice for me

I agree with Joel, our R32 GTST has 170,000 k's on the original coil packs, the GTR has 142,000 on the original coil packs, the Stagea has 102,000k's on the original coil packs. The old R32 GTR still had its original coil packs and it is close to 200,000 k's now. Personally, I haven't had a problem

There is a web site I have seen with Skyline chassis and engine data, let me dig around....

Get well soon. Look after the leg, my wife broke hers last year and she still has trouble occasionally.

Hi LW, I am a bit paranoid about ceramic turbines, they always let go at the worst possible times. So I get rid of them pretty early in the upgrade path. I kinda do cat back, filter, ecu, then do turbo and split dump together, followed by intercooler and cams. But that's just me, others do it differently