Sydneykid

Suggestions follow; 1. The springs are different rates now, otherwise why bother changing over front to rear? The front of a Skyline carries 60% of its total weight and the rear 40%. So the front spring rate needs to be around 50% stronger than the rear. With a new pair of 200 lb springs in the rear, the Tein rears will be just about right for the front. 2. That's what adjustable lower spring platforms are for. 3. The lower rear spring rate will help this, but you do have to keep it balanced, refer #1. The rear springs rates are so high now that the tyres are skipping from one little ripple on the road to the next, the softer rate will enable the tyre to follow the road surface. More contact = more traction. Hope that clarifies:cheers:

Sorry the quality of the scanning is not good enough for me to read the data.

Service comes first, oil, engine, gearbox, diff, brake fluid, water, all filters, spark plugs, check the vacuum lines, fuel lines, intercooler hoses and clamps. Then the #1 upgrade for a turbo car is always the exhaust.

Use a good fuel filter and change it often and you won't have to wory about getting blocked injectors.

My suggestion would be to put the ECU into diagnostic mode and read off the error codes. That will tell you which sensor is crook. There is a thread on how to do it, the search buttton is your friend. Suggestion #2 go to any Nissan dealer and plug in their Nissan Consult and check the error codes. Suggestion #3 Buy a neat consult display from Impakt, see the for sale forum. Then you can do it yourself. As for addtiives, what if the additive you add works against the additives that Castrol/Shell uses? (Substitute your chosen brand for Castrol/Shell). Hope that helps

If you want the right answer, first you have to have the right questions. Then you have to have the data. Without data you are guessing, and I try to never guess.

Hi Bleck, suggestion follow; 1. Yes, but it would pay to check with them 2. No, exactly the reverse, because the Teins are adjustable you can adjust them to suite the spring rates. 3. The rear spring rate is ~30% too hard for the rear, but just about right right for the front. Skyline springs are the same physical dimensions, so the rear and the front springs are interchangeable. The reason you do it is cost, why buy 2 sets of springs when swapping one set will do the job and save you 50%. I don't sell springs so I don't need to tell you that you need to spend your money with me and buy 4 springs when you really only need 2. I have told a large number of people this system, about 80% of them are happy, some want a more compliant ride and end up buying even softer front springs. But if you can save some money why not? Hope that helps

As the guys have already posted , boost is irelevant. I have a T66 that makes 400 rwkw at 1.4 bar (upgraded internals) and a GCG ball bearing hi flow that makes 265 rwkw at 1.3 bar (standard internals). There is no way the standard internals would handle 1.3 bar from the T66. I work to the ther rule of thumb limit for standard internals on an RB25DET as being ~450bhp. Whether you use 1.1 bar or 1.6 bar to get there is not the issue.

Yes :Pimp:

Depends on the quality of the sleeves themselves and the machining quality. As for power I have seen a sleeved RB26 make 1300 ps.:cheers

What spec of T78? What other mods? What do you use the car for?

The dyno sheet says SR20DET is that correct?

It has been my experience that higher lift will help more than longer duration.

The part number for the Bosch 0-1volt wide band 02 sensor is: 0258 104 002. This is the same lambda sensor that Motec uses on their Wide Band Lambda meter (check the part number on their price list). I have bought them from Kinsler Fuel Injection in Troy, Michigan, USA, for the bargain price of $US249.00 This is the best price I found, but it keeps moving though. www.kinsler.com Hope that is of some help

I would be having a loook at that lean out spot around 5,600 rpm.

Have a read of this, it explains it fairly well....

Hi Dayna, dry sumping adds complexity and is not cheap, plus there are some convenience issues. Usually for good weight distrubution you would put the tank in the boot and run the lines though the cabin, as underneath is asking for them to get hit. The breather tank would also normally go in the boot as you have to vent the dry sump tank as would an oil filter. Add that to the fuel system plumbing and this makes the boot unuseable for carrying anything, even the spare wheel can be a hassle. We have raced Skylines for a number of years and found a good winged and baffled sump to be very very effective in preventing oil surge. We have on board data logging in the race cars and I have never seen any evidence of oil surge, and we pull some serious lateral G's. I have looked at a lot of very serious drift cars and haven't seen any with a dry sump system. Not saying that there aren't any, just that I haven't seen them. For your purposes, personally I think dry sumping is an overkill. Get a good winged and baffled sump and use the saved money on other things to improve the competitive performance.

After I have lightened all the round and round things (flywheel, road wheels, steering wheel, tailshaft, brake rotors, pulleys) I do the up and down things (pistons, conrods, shock absorbers, springs, stabiliser bars, brake callipers, brake lines etc).

You would have to do the usual mods to it, plus a large cooler. They are a genetic Jatco, they supply to lots of Japanese car makers. I have seen similar internals do an 8 in a 2.5 litre WRX, with nitrous and all the usual stuff. There are a few auto to manual Stagea conversions going on, so you should pick one up realatively cheaply. Post up a wanted and see what sort of response you get.

Have I missed something here............ My understanding was it holds boost (doesn't drop down to 16 psi) if you lock the wastegate shut. In fact it builds boost up to 28 psi. This means it has sufficient airflow to hold the target boost of 20 psi, but the wastegate is opening. So if you get the wastegate under control it will hold 20 psi and make the 300 rwkw target. 300 rwkw +60 kw losses X 1.34 = 482 bhp As DB said the 2835 is rated at 420 PS, it is generally accepted that HKS rate their turbos at 90% (conservative), so you can add 10% to that. This means 460 ps, so the 300 rwkw is realy stretching it. This is confirmed by the airlfow rating of 41 lbs per minute X 11 = 451 bhp. So B-man if you do get to 300 rwkw you have done a good job and extracted the max.

Tomei call them Poncams because they are bolt in (no other mods). If they say 9.2 mm is OK with standard everything else then it must be OK. Tomei do make cams that are not Poncams ie; they need mods to fit. When I have used the 256/260 's in RB25DET's they are demonstrably superior to any others I have tried or see the results of. I have not seen this same superiority in their GTR cams. They are as good as the others, but not better. I suggest you give the cam upgrade a try before you swap out the turbos, you might find that it is enough for your tastes. Hi meshmesh, Mark has spoken to me a number of times about his set up. :wavey:

I prefer to start with things that go around , so lighter road wheels make a big difference as does a lighter flywheel.

The front guard cut accentuates the nose up look, but I measured the sills on ours and it is definitely 5 to 10mm lower at the rear. Most cars look better with ~10 mm rake to the front.

Hi, wastegate size looks OK to me; 300+60X1.34 = 482/11=44 mm So it must be opening too early, also I notice that the A/F ratios lean out at the same time as the boost starts to drop. I test this by plumbing the boost gauge in the line from the boost controller to the wastegate actuator. This tells you at what boost the EBC is letting boost pressure flow to the actuator. I then adjust the EBC to minimise this. I have had no experience with E-Boost so I can't suggest what settings are required, maybe have a chat with the technical guys at Turbosmart. They should have an answer to the appropriate settings ot fix the creep. Hope that helps

Hi Mik, the general consensus from GTR owners around the world is that GTRS's are too big for 2.6 litres. A set of camshafts would help, as would a light port of the cylinder head and an increase in compression ratio. As for cams, 256/260/264 would be OK, keep the lift under 9 mm. I haven't found any particular brand which outshines the others when used in GTR's. Personally I find the 256/260 Poncams are superior in GTST's, but that has not, to date, been the case in GTR's. Hope that helps