Sydneykid

#1 is used on Nascars, pretty simple concept. As well as the normal brake line from the master cylinder, they have a one way valve in the calliper, which is closed when pressure is applied (put foot on brake pedal). When pressure is removed (take foot off brake pedal) the valve opens and lets the residual pressure squirt a little of the hot brake fluid into another brake line. Usually it would flow back into the normal brake line and push some fluid from the line back into the master cylinder. This other brake line is connected to a cooler and then back to the top of the master cylinder. So a little bit of hot fluid from each calliper goes via the cooler back to the master cylinder every time you take you foot off the brakes. This means that after a lap of so, all of the brake fluid has been circulated through the cooler. This system also lowers the brake fluid temperature in the calliper instantly because it removes some hot fluid, which is replaced by cooler fluid from the brake line next time the brakes are applied. It is a bitch to set up, if you have any pad knock off there is no residual pressure in the brake lines and you end up with a long brake pedal. So this system needs careful tuning of the one way valve and can not be used if there is any run out on the rotors. Hope that helps (and makes some sense)

Wooohoo I am getting one, save the problem we had with the R34 GTT, damn thing used to suck the standard pipework closed at anything over 220 rwkw. Judging by Bass's radiator ducts they shoud be great, good quality, fit well, cheap price. I will post up some pictures when done.

RB30 turbo :spew:

Yeh I know, that's why I'm jealous. Why does the price come down 4 months after I buy one, not 4 months before :spew:

Umm, not always. I have tried a larger turbo, one with more airflow, and it made more power at lower boost. But the average power was crap, so this one is faster.

Hi, I have posted this table a few times, but just in case you missed it. Rule of thumb for Air Flow meters RWKW & Engine BHP ------ ---- OD ---- RWKW ---- RWKW ---- BHP ------ BHP No of AFM's ---- ------- 1 -------- 2 -------- 1 -------- 2 RB26 ------ 65 ------ 149 ------ 299 ------ 271 ------ 474 RB20/25 --- 80 ------ 226 ------ 453 ------ 376 ------ 683 Z32 ------- 80 ------ 255 ------ 511 ------ 415 ------ 763 Q45 ------- 90 ------ 302 ------ 605 ------ 479 ------ 890 Please note that this is only an indication, every engine is different and tuning makes a big difference. For example, I have seen a GTR equiped with twin Q45 AFM's make 1100 bhp. RB20/25 and Z32 AFM's are all 80 mm OD, that's outside diameter, not ID that's inside diameter. There is no real difference between an RB20 and an RB25 AFM. On the other hand the Z32 AFM is calibrated differently, so at the airflow the RB20/25 AFM shows max voltage, ~5 volts the Z32 afm is only showing ~4 volts. This means when the airlfow gets higher the Z32 can still show voltage increases to the ECU. Q45 (Infinity) AFM's are 90 mm (OD), so they have the same calibration advantage but they are also larger in diameter for less restriction. Hope that helps

Take car immediately to Centreline (Chris) or Traction Tyres (Andrew).

Yeh, I looked for about 6 months, never saw one manual go for less than Y2M. That's $16K + $2K + Duty + GST + $5K + Stamp Duty + Rego = no change from $32K. To get a manual S2 for $23K is fantastic value, my S1 auto cost $17K. I am seriously jealous

R34 standard intercooler has different pipework layout to R32 and R33. Some mods required.

Wow, that's a bargain, I saw one similar at the Kobe auctions recently go more than Yen 2,000,000. By the time it was landed here, duty and GST paid, with compliance costs and new tyres it would have cost $40K registered.

Ahh no, the intercooler is still hot, so it heats up the air going through it. Until it cools down, maybe 2 to 10 seconds depending on speed and ambient air temp.

Mmmmmm BIG POWER, well the Apexi drag R33 GTR (V Max) makes 1,100 ps using a Power FC with AFM's. I have yet to see a limit to how much power a Power FC can handle. Their injector control is pretty awesome, 1300 cc injectors are no problem. They have enough map references, both ignition and fuel. Add a Datalogit and you can log your runs and control a few extra things like intercooler sprays etc. The only step up I would consider from a Power FC is a Motec M600 and you are looking at 4 to 5 times the Power FC costs by the time all the functions are enabled and full initialisation, set up, wiring and tuning is completed. Hope that is of some help. BTW; V Max runs 8's at 165 mph.

There is a previous post with pictures on what you need to do to fit an R34 intercooler into an R32/33. Search is your friend.

SAFC only adjust A/F ratios in pretty broard steps at that when used on a 600 bhp engine. It does NOTHING for igntion timing, in fact in many cases an SAFC makes the ignition timing problem worse. Following is a previous post of mine explaining why...... a quick, simplistic explanation of how an SAFC works might help... As the airflow into the engine increase, the AFM records this as increased voltage that the ECU sees. What an SAFC does is sit in between the AFM and the ECU and take the voltages from the AFM and either increase or decrease them depending on what you have programmed the SAFC to do. By increasing the voltage, this tricks the ecu into pumping in more fuel, you do this when the engine is running lean. By decreasing the voltage, this tricks the ecu into pumping in less fuel, you do this when the engine is running rich. The next bit is hard to understand unless you remember that the standard ecu does not supply fuel in direct proportion to the afm voltage ie; 4 volts is not twice as much fuel as 2 volts. Engine rpm, boost and throttle position also help the ecu determine how much fuel to add. It has been my experience that RB25's run a little lean down low in the rpm range (Nissan do this for fuel economy and emissions) and a lot rich up high (Nissan do this to protect the engine). So I have to increase the voltage (using the SAFC) up to around 3,000 rpm (part throttle especially) and decrease the voltage over 5,000 rpm (full throttle). The real problem is in the 3,000 to 5,000 rpm range as the engine comes on boost. They really need lots of fuel very quickly in this area. This can mean that you need to increase the voltage (that the ecu sees) over 5.1 volts to get the right A/F ratios. The ecu then goes into engine protection mode, rich and retarded (sounds like a girl I knew once) . Past that rpm you can start leaning it out as it runs too rich, so the voltage needs to be turned down under 5.1 volts. The ecu sees this as the engine not needing protection mode any more, no more rich and retarded. It is not unusual to get good performance up to 3,000 rpm, then sluggish from 3,000 rpm to 5,000 rpm and then good performance from 5,000 rpm and over. The SAFC may not help this, in fact as explained above, it can in fact make it worse if the tuner is not switched on to this stuff. With bent afm voltages, the ecu (tricked by the SAFC) also fires the ignition to suite the airflow it THINKS the engine is getting. This is not a good thing as you generally end up with ignition that is too far advanced in some rpm ranges. The poor tuner has to juggle the SAFC settings, so that the A/F ratios are OK, the ecu doesn't get into rich and retard (engine protection) mode and the ignition timing is not too far advanced so as to cause detonation. My experience (I am not a good tuner) has been that this is full of compromises, sometimes you just can't win and have to reduce the boost level a bit to get even a reasonable compromise. Keep in mind that this explanation is very simplified to make it fit in a reasonable space, the rpm's used are rough guides only and every car is different. Hope it helps (and makes some sense).

Ahh no. In the R32 GTST we have an RB20DET Power FC running an RB31DET with RB26 top end. I just swapped ALL of the sensors off the RB20 onto the RB31. Obviously I used the fuel rail and the injectors that were in the RB20DET, being top feed they are easier to upgrade than the RB25 side feed anyway. The only issue with an RB25DET top end would be the VVT, so not really an problem.

Hi Bass, I'm up for a Stagea one, save me making one and I am hopeless at aluminium welding. Same as R33 GTST I believe.

Three types; #1 recycles the brake fluid via a cooler tank, usually filled with ice or a normal cooler #2 squirts water onto the rotors when brakes applied (hell on the rotors) #3 recirculates water through special galleries in the brake callipers, uses an electric pump and cooler as in #1

www.earls.com.au, $200. And SLIM V 2.1.0, what the hell does :bananaman mean?

The RB20DET exhaust manifold will fit an RB25DET top end on an RB30 bottom end, obviously the turbo will too. But what is a big ass turbo on a RB20, is gunna be a small turbo on an RB30. I have used the same turbo (RB25DET turbo with ball bearing hi flow) on an RB20 and an RB25 Neo and it's about to go onto our Stagea (RB25DET non Neo). It made 225 rwkw on the RB20, 265 rwkw on the RB25 Neo and I expect around 200 awkw on the Stagea (less mods, auto, no Power FC). So if you are happy with ~265 rwkw and boost at 2,500 rpm, then you could use the same turbo on an RB20 and an RB30. Personally I would sell it and buy something more suitable, but you don't HAVE to. Hope that answered your question

I have no idea what you are looking at Alff, but there is very little difference between an RB30 main girdle and an RB26 main girdle. Simon's RB30 with the billet girdle made ~1,000 bhp on the engine dyno. We have built a 900 bhp RB31DET and it uses the standard RB30 main girdle, our race RB31DET makes 650 bhp all day, every race and it uses the standard RB30 main girdle. We built 5 RB30DET's 2 years ago and they are all running perfectly, the LOWEST power output from those is 650 bhp, the highest 780 bhp. I pulled one down for inspection 6 months ago and it was perfect, crack test, sonic test straightness, the lot. Bottom end strength well proven by hundreds of RB30 runners all over the place since 1986, too much evidence to ignore. :cheers:s

Hi Driver, looking at the mods, you have no method of real tuning and R34 GTT's have very strict engine protection built into the ECU. I would never expect t to achieve a good result without some tuning, once I had done the usual bolt on mods. You really need to think about what you are going to do about it, SAFC or Power FC would be my choices. It has been my experiecne that you spend more money on fuel than you could save by a bit of A/F ratio tuning. My recommendation, get the tuning device (SAFC or PFC) put the car on the dyno and run through the usual checks, that will tell you what is holding it back. Fuel pressure test under load will identify fuel pump problems, A/F ratios can be fixed with tuning, timing light checks for ignition etc etc The very SECOND mod I did with our R34 GTT was a Power FC with Boost Control Kit, obviously a turbo back exhaust was the first. We had ~200 rwkw with just those two mods and tuning. It now has hi flow turbo, Tomei 260 cams, POD, heat shield, CAI, alloy inlet (yep, they do suck closed), Tomei fuel pump, R34 GTR intercooler, injectors, Z32 AFM and makes 265 rwkw. You work it out for yourself...... PFC + exhaust = ~50 rwkw gain turbo + cams + POD + fuel pump + intercooler + injectors + AFM = ~65 rwkw gain I think it is obvious what I reckon you should do next. PS; Before the comments start, that was at 12 psi and the standard turbo died shortly thereafter. Plus the standard R34 GTT intercooler (although bigger than R32/33) would heat soak pretty quick and the power would drop off noticeably. So 200 rwkw for short periods, no problems, just don't expect it to do it for long periods.

I agree but there are steps, if you want ~225 rwkw then the RB20 will be heaps cheaper and do the job perfectly, maybe even ~250 rwkw. But once over that STEP and it's a different story, the value for money equation goes out the window. I have almost a complete set of 2.4 litre internals and I have an RB20DET to stick them into. But I built another RB31DET instead.

Faced with the same question 2 years ago, I went for the RB31DET (RB26 top end). By the time I added up all the costs of building a strong 265rwkw RB20DET, a 450 rwkw RB31DET worked out cheaper. As with all engines, there are certain steps where you have to upgrade stuff to support the move to the next power level. A 265rwkw RB20DET needed, pistons, rods, cams, head work, turbo, inlet manifold, exhaust manifold etc. Basically all the same stuff that an RB30 needed, but it was 50% larger in capacity. Let's face it, a 265 rwkw turbo is not much cheaper than a 450 rwkw turbo, 272 cams are no more expensive than 256 cams, 80 mm pistons are the same price as 87.5 mm pistons, RB30 forged rods are the same price as RB20 rods etc etc. The real sealer for me was the more readily available used RB26 aftermarket parts compared to RB20 parts and the realative cheapness of RB30 bottom end parts. Obviously there are quite a few people out there who arrived at the same conclusion, the size of the RB30 thread is evidence of that.

From what I can tell each RAWS gets 100 licences on 1st January each year they apply for. Those licences are used over the range of vehicles they have approval for. So the pricing is variable, early in the year the RAWS might need some work (money) so they lower their prices. If thier prices are cheaper than the rest then they might start to run out of licences, so they raise their prices. Then at the end of the year they might have some left so they lower their prices again to use them up before they loose them. Some vehicles have only only one approved RAWS, so they can charge whatever they like. Others have a few RAWS, so there is competition, it's what free enterprise is all about. My suggestion, if you want a particular vehicle, check on the DOTARS web site as to who is a RAWS for it. Then ring around and get prices. If you don't like any of the prices then pick another vehicle or wait until early in the next year or maybe later in this one or until more RAWS get approval for that vehicle. There is no one "right" answer, every vehicle is different and timing is everything. Hope that helps

This topic has been covered many times in the Forced Induction Performance forum. Some of my posts from there follow; The Trust kit for GTR's is very simple, it extends the sump downwards (reduces ground clearance) and has an extended pick up and a cylindrical baffle. It increases oil capacity by ~1.25 litres. The Performance Metalcraft sump we use has wings (so it does not reduce ground clearance) out both sides with one way doors and baffles. It does not need an extended pick up. It increases oil capacity by a bit over 2 litres. In funtion there is really no comparison, a winged and baffled sump is by far a superior solution. --------------------------------- Question about fitting, engine out or not It takes about the same amount of time to do it in the car, but there are no complications or risks. It is pretty hard to get the wiring wrong or damage the clutch if you don't take them out. I strongly suggest you jack up the car and have a look for yourself. Basically everything under and/or attached to the sump unbolts, so you remove all that stuff and there is easy access to the sump itself. My suggestion is to have a chat to a few of your local workshops. -------------------------------------------------------- A larger sump is not a substitute for an oil cooler on the circuit, it doesn't matter how much oil you have in the sump, it will eventuially heat up. My personal recommendation is that an engine oil cooler is a must on ANY GTR that sees the circuit. -------------------------------- Try www.hioctaneracing.com.au if the Performance Metalcraft site doesn't work, same people. Hope that helps