Sydneykid

We didn't have a 4wd dyno for many years, the standard trick was to simply pull the ATTESSA fuse and drop the front tailshaft. It only takes a few minutes. It is also great fun to drive a high power GTR in rwd, you need to do it once in your life. :wassup:

That's the problem, no matter what you have you always want a bit more. The trick is learning to say NO to yourself. :headspin: BTW the $2K included the fitting cost, the engine itself ready to go in cost way less than $2K. The turbo was an old, well used T04 so I had a kit put through it, that's also included in the $2K. I used the envelope method. I got the best quote I could for the bits and machining, then wrote that suppliers name on an envelope. I put exactly that much money in the envelope and sealed it up. When I paid for the stuff I gave them their envelope. The envelopes were the discipline, to make sure I didn't keep asking for a bit more and a bit better and a bit bigger. Guess what, it came in on budget. Hope that helps

Let me start with, all engines are different, add that to the fact that once you start modifying stuff they become even more different. The generalisation with Power FC's in R33 GTST's is that they are a bit rich and a little advanced. But you can change that by doing mods. What's rich at 200 rwkw, may not be rich at 240 rwkw. What's too advanced at 1.3 bar may well be OK at 1 bar. As for timing, I am a firm believer in having the ignition timing as far advanced as the engine will take. They make a bit more power that way but they also liven up, lose some lag, improve the throttle response. So my suggestion is as always is run as much advance as the engine will take. If want a safety margin, use fuel, run it a tad richer than ideal. What t to look for, the things you said, pinging (noise), detonation on the Commander. Plus I would whip the plugs out, straight after a hard run and take a look for any signs of pre ignition. Since it will take some more total advance, I would suggest a quick check with a timing light to confirm CAS accuracy. Then hop into the ignition maps and work your way through those. If it takes 5 degrees everywhere, chances are it will take more than that in certain maps, Be carefull in the boost building zone from ~3,500 rpm to ~6,000 rpm, a degree or two either way makes a lot of difference. Hope that helps

That's exactly what I did with the first RB30DET, rebuilt standard RB30E bottom end and R32 (no VVT) RB25DE top end. For $2K and 475 BHP on the engine dyno, it was the best bang for buck engine I have ever had. Used all the RB20DET sensors, manifolds, sump, engine mounts etc and then sold the RB20DET top end for $300 to a guy who put it on an RB30 bottom end, go figga :wassup: Roy, you should really think about it. I reckon your Trust kit would work a charm on an RB30DET.

That's US dollars. So $A1,250 plus freight $150 plus 10% import duty plus 10% GST = $A1,700 Yep, that's about right.

Pffffff, you need a Stagea, now that's what I call an EXTRA DOOR. :wassup:

Performance Metalcraft have their own style and it's pretty damn good. Let's face it, there isn't a lot not known about how and why to make split dumps. The value is in the quality of the workmanship not the basic design. PM's workmanship is right up there so I use their stuff when I need to (as in when our race team fabricator is too busy). As for price, you really need to ask PM directly. Yep exactly, personally I think Trust went the right way. Pitty the others didn't follow.

You are right weq, for RB20/26 there is no Problem with using Rockester, Bosch, Jecs, Nippon Denso etc The top feed standard is readily available. Hondas run the top feed standard so they are interchangeable. But I haven't been able to find any of the large OE injector manufacturers making the skinny R34 GTT (RB25DET NEO) style. So you have to buy the expensive Japanese brand names. As for RX7 injector spray pattern, I heard that story years ago. So I tested them and they look pretty good to me, sure I have seen better (Bosch Motorsport for one), but I have seen plenty that are worse. Most of it comes from the fact the Series V turbo injectors are getting old now, and you have to buy 8 or 9 to get 6 good ones. But that's nothing unusual for used injectors. Hope that clarifies

About 80 hours is right if you were starting from scratch, but since the Power FC's have the basic set ups already done, you save about half that. Them the tricky stuff like air con idle up, power steer compensation, cold start and run etc etc are also already done and that's about half of what is left. So I usually reckon on 2 days, but it really depends on how modified the car is and how well it is done. You can spend hours looking for a problem before you even get to start tuning. In order to test cold start and run for example you really have to have the car overnight so it is stone cold. Even then you really have a small window in which to check everything, they warm up so fast. Imagine if you had to start from scratch, it might take 3 or 4 mornings to get every thing right. Tuning for power is really pretty easy compared to the other stuff you have to do. The stuff that makes a car "nice" to drive in all conditions. That's where car manufacturers spend a lot of their time. It's the main reason I like Power FC's they are pretty "nice" out of the box. Although they are tuned rich for safety and a bit advanced (they have 100 octance fuel), but even that is getting less with our 98 octane getting better quality.

Hi Dayna, I have swapped around R32 GTR and R33 GTR Power FC's and not had a problem, so the Standard ECU's should do the same. I haven't seen any real world differences in AFM's either.

That's a good thought R33vit, I just assumed that the tuner would have set the basic parameters correctly. Maybe not :wassup: So that would be a good place to start, check all of the input parameters. Make sure it does have the right AFM's selected, the right injector settings, the right idle rpm aim, air con, turned off APexi boost controller kit, acceleration enrichment etc. The next thing to do is drive around and watch the Commander (in Monitor mode). Not so easy, sometimes it helps to have a passenger or point a video camera at the COmmander and play it back later on. Slow motion and freeze frame can be useful. Hope that helps some more

Well no, it is a little more detailed and requires considerably more knowledge and testing. But what else can the poor engineer be expected to do, follow you around and make sure you don't change anything? :headspin:

The engineering report is done as at the time the car was presented. It is exactly the same as turning up with standard wheels and then swapping then over later. When he checked it, it passed that's why the engineeering report is timed and dated.

What if the RB25DET he is using is from an auto, then he can't use the "standard ECU". VL ECU's are tunable anyway, so if he could use one of those he would be able to tune it just like any aftermarket ECU. Even LS1 ECU's are tunable these days (via LS1 EDIT) , does that mean you can't engineer a Commondoor with a standard one of those? You are right, it unltimately depends on the engineer. But it also depends on how you approach the problem with them as well.

We use ACL Race Series, try www.acl.com.au they will have a distibutor that does international sales. You can also try www.nengun.com they have Nismo bearings at reasonable prices.

Much lower, like 0.1V

Hi T517XGTR, there is nothing tricky about tuning with a Powerr FC using the Commander. You read off the A/F ratios from the dyno lambda sensor and richen or lean it out to achieve the correct A/F ratios. It is a bit tedious with the Commander, as you have to run it in trace mode, note the map references and then hop into settings and change them. This is not really more difficult than a Microtech or other ECU that uses a hand controller to program. It has been my experience that the Datalogit will enable tuners to use their favourite lap top to tune the Power FC. It makes it so simple that even an idiot tuner can't blame the Power FC. The dyno graphs show up the problems. My suggestion, go back to the dyno shop that has the ability to display the boost, ignition timing and A/F ratios displayed together with power output. Ask for him to do one single power run (should cost less than $50) and print out the 3 graphs for you. Then put the graphs up here and 20 guys will be able to help you work out what is wrong. Nine time out of ten as soon as you ask for the detial print outs, tuners know you are onto their slackness and tidy things up pretty fast. Hope that is of some help

Hi T517XGTR, there is nothing tricky about tuning with a Powerr FC using the Commander. You read off the A/F ratios from the dyno lambda sensor and richen or lean it out to achieve the correct A/F ratios. It is a bit tedious with the Commander, as you have to run it in trace mode, note the map references and then hop into settings and change them. This is not reqally more difficult than a Microtech or other ECU that uses a hand controller to program. It has been my experience that the Datalogit will enable tuners to use their favourite lap top to tune the Power FC. It makes it so simple that even an idiot tuner can't blame the Power FC. The dyno graphs show up the problems. My suggestion, go back to the dyno shop that has the ability to display the boost, ignition timing and A/F ratios displayed together with power output. Ask for him to do one single power run (should cost less than $50) and print out the 3 graphs for you. Then put the graphs up here and 20 guys will be able to help you work out what is wrong. Nine time out of ten as soon as you ask for the detial print outs, tuners know you are onto their slackness and tidy things up pretty fast. Hope that is of some help

Up to 300 rwkw, I have found the R33/34 GTR standard intercooler to be hard to beat.

Hmmmm, an unusual combination. If the numbers are all as you say, I suspect something is wrong. I haven't seen a R33 GTST go that high in AFM voltage until over 200 rwkw. Maybe try cleaning the AFM (brake clean is the go as it has no residue) and checking it's connector. Then check the voltage with a multimeter, as a few spots in the rpm range, that might help narrow it down.

Yep, that'll fix the missfire and at 13 psi it will then hit the excess airflow protection, if it hasn't already. I was just being economical, saving another post later on.

It's going in a VL Commondoor, so the "standard" VL ECU won't work. It's an RB25DET NEO engine, they were never emmisions tested here as they weren't sold here. So what isn't an "aftermarket" ECU in this case? The VL ECU is "aftermarket" to the engine and the RB25DET ECU is "aftermarket" to the VL. So you have to ask the question of the engineer correctly, don't ask "is an aftermarket ECU OK?" Ask "which of the two ECU's do you suggest?" Since neither will work, then he has to say aftermarket is OK as long as it passes the emmmisions test. Whether or not it passes the emmisions test is the real question, it shouldn't matter how you get there.

Excess airlfow protection by the standard ECU. Do a search, there are plenty of threads on that subject.

The "gate keeper"chip wasn't modded on any of our PFC's (2 X GTR and 1 X GTST), so we could use the Datalogit. So if the Kashima dongle is the same as the Datalogit dongle then you don't need to modify the "gate keeper"chip. It should just plug in and work like a Datalogit I assume you have tried to use the Kashima dongle and the Power Excel software and it doesn't work The advanced one sounds like the Datalogit dongle. PM me Me either, that's why it would be best if that wasn't required at all. RB20 PFC's are too rare to blow one up with my amatuer soldering skills. Very interesting thread

On the RHS inner guard, under the inlet plenum, behind the HICAS solenoids, near the steering shaft.