Sydneykid

Ohh, did it drop any power when the filter went back on?

Fumes as in partially burnt fuel or raw petrol smell? If it is raw petrol smell (like you get at the servo) then have your carbon canister and its plumbing checked:cheers:

Sorry but this question makes no sense for a Power FC as it uses the AFM to measure engine load (plus the usual throttle position, map sensor for boost, water temp sensor etc). The AFM senses what airflow the engine is consuming and the PFC adds the necessary fuel for that amount of airflow. When cruising at constant throttle, the Power FC runs closed loop via the lambda sensor and leans out the mixture as much as possible to maximise the fuel economy. Put simply, if you have "bugger all boost" then you have bugger all airflow and the PFC adds bugger all fuel. If you have "lotsa boost" then you have lotsa airflow and the PFC adds lotsa fuel and so "bugger the fuel economy". This is not the case for other ECU's that use MAP sensors (instead of AFM's), they don't know the actual airflow into the engine, they guess it from the manifold pressure, rpm and throttle position. It can never be as accurate under all conditions like an AFM can. There is a reason PFC's are so popular, they are all round the best in my opinion.

So a search, I have published the track specs a number of times.

We use PWR's in the race cars, much more affordable than the imports.

Good to hear, you need to fine tune the settings to your personal tastes, but it's a good place to start. As for Stagea towing, I haven't found a tow bar with enough capacity yet, still looking

I saw a Stagea run an 11, that's a fast boat.

The dyno graph shows 438.7 rwhp at 162 kph, that's around 5,800 rpm in 4th assuming standard gearing and tyre diameter. No air filter I notice, or ducting for it. I don't think I would be driving that around the sand blown streets of Perth, or the soot laden streets of Sydney/Melbourne either.

The standard ECU is seeing excessive loadings, so it is adding fuel to protect the engine, that means higher fuel consumption. The ECU is also retarding the ignition timing to protect the engine from these unusual (for its programming) readings. This results in poor performance which you try to overcome by using more throttle and thus use more fuel. Generally this double whammy is called "rich and retard" protection. The Apexi Power FC is the best I have found for the performance and economy as it has very good closed loop running and uses an AFM to accurately calculate the air flow and thus the fuel required. It also happens to be the cheapest of the superior solutions with zero installation costs, truly plug and play, just add tuning. Hope that helps:cheers:

Hi guys, under Stage Suspension thread, in the Stage section, I have posted a step by step picture guide for fitting front and rear Whiteline Stabiliser bars to a Stagea. The general layout on the Stagea is pretty much the same as on R33GTST, R33GTR, R34GTT and R34GTR. The sizes vary of course. Hope it is of some help:cheers:

It doesn't have "cold maps" as such, there are correction tables for how much % fuel to add according to the water temp.

After I fiited up the bars I did about 100k's driving around Sydney, in Saturday traffic mostly. As you may have noted from the above, I set the rear bar on full soft and the front bar on full hard. That was my guess, as the rear bar was a pretty big upgrade going from a 19mm hollow bar to a 22mm solid bar (more than 155% increase in roll stiffness), so I figured softest setting would be a good place to start. On the other hand the front bar upgrade was pretty mild, going from a 22mm solid bar to a 24mm (42% increase in roll stiffness) solid bar, so I went for the hardest setting. The first thing you notice is how much the rear roll has been reduced, the Stagea no longer diagonally leans over onto the outside front wheel through the corner. The tyre squeel is almost gone at sane speeds (double the posted). In addition the initial turn in is greatly improved, as soon as you turn the wheel, it points. It still needs more caster though as the feel is not enough for me. The ride is hardly affected, it still absorbs bumps very well, it just doesn't rock from side to side like it used to. The big improvement is when going left and then right quickly, the change of direction speed and stability are greatly improved. It doesn't show up how bad the worn out std shocks are, well not as much as I thought. But it still needs shocks real bad, that's the next task. A set of Bilsteins and machine the extra circlip grooves to get the height right. That'll be in a following installment of Stagea Suspension. Hope you all got something out of this:cheers:

The front looks a little trickier than the rear but it isn't, you just have to remove the undetray first. It has lots of bolts around the front and down the sides, 12 of them I think (10mm socket); Then you need to undo the std links, only where they attach to the bar as the Whiteline bar uses the standard links (14mm ring and 14 mm open ended spanner); Once you have undone the links, then its time for the D brackets, there is a bolt at the front (14mm socket); And you get at the nut at the rear (14 mm socket and medium extension), it is a bit hidden up above the radius rod bush; This is comparison of the bars, note the links are still on the Stagea Once again you simply reverse the process for fitting the Whiteline bar, this one I put on the highest rate (hole furthest in on the arm). Don't forget to grease inside the polyurethane D bushes, they touch metal as well. Put the undertray back on and you are finished. Hope that helps:cheers:

I started at the rear. First job undo the links at the both ends of the std bar, using a 10 mm socket at the top and a 10 mm ring spanner on the bottom. You have to remove the link completely as the Whiteline rear bar comes with its own link. Which you assemble like this, note the white grease on all surfaces where the polyurethane touches metal (it'll squeek like crazy if you don't), It has a crush tube inside the polurethane bushes, so you just tighten it up (14mm and 15mm); Next you remove the std D brackets (14mm socket), loosen but leave the rear bolt in, it gives you somewhere to hang the bracket (it's slotted) when you put the Whiteline bar on. Undo the LHS D bracket first as it goes over the exhaust pipe and that will hold it up while you undo the RHS D bracket; Comparison of the bars (the standard one is hollow), note that the Whilteline bar is on its softest setting (the hole furthest out on the arm; Refitting is the reverse, slot the bar over the exhaust pipe (it's a wiggle), then do up the RHS D bracket while the exhaust pipe holds up the LHS. Then do the LHS D bracket and both of the links. The nylock nut (17mm) goes on the top. Tighten up until the polyurethane bushes expand out to the same size as the cup washers, don't tightem them so much they bulge. If you have a large exhaust system you may have to fit the link on the LHS after you have squeezed the bar past the exhaust.

Hi Guys, fitted the stabiliser bars to the Stagea yesterday and, as promised, I took a few photos. All up it took about 3 hours but taking photos adds to the time a lot, I reckon I could do it in under 2 hours without stopping. Where I can remember, I have included the tools (sizes) required at each step. These are the part numbers I used for a 24 mm adjustable front and 22 mm adjustable rear. B= Bar N = Nissan F = Front R = Rear #'s = the next number available X = Extra Heavy Duty XX = Extra Extra Heavy Duty No X = Heavy Duty Z = Adjustable

A lower price would be nice

Hi Guys, I'll keep this brief as there are plenty of threads on this exact subject. I have tested the standard RB25DET inlet (inc throttle body) and it shows ZERO resistance at airflows equivalent to 450 bhp on the flow bench. Since 450 bhp is my rule of thumb limit for standard internals, my suggestion is always to spend your money on something else (other than a plenum) until you have upgraded the internals. Simply because it is a waste of money, not to mention time. Don't get me wrong I am not saying that Greddy plenums are crap, although the airflow distribution is not perfect. What I am saying is you will get a better result from spending your $1K plus on other things. An example, for around the same money I will get a much larger power increase from a set of camshafts. Porting the cylinder head, polishing amnd matching the combustion chambers will give a larger power increase. A better turbo will give a larger power increase. A better intercooler will give a larger power increase. A Power FC will give a larger power increase. A decent exhaust manifold will give a larger power increase. Hi flow cat, cat back exhaust etc etc. There are plenty of better ways to spend your money. As for response, I have compared the amount of air held in the standard manifold and 120 degree style pipework to a Greddy plenum and its pipework. The difference is less than 1.5 litres. So do the numbers; 2500 cc X 5000 rpm / 2 (4 stroke) = 104 litres per second So saving 1.5 litres represents 1.4 hundredths of a second That's not a lot of lag to save with reduced pipework A set of cams, a port and polish, Power FC, exhaust manifold, will all reduce lag much better than that. Bottom line, after you upgrade the internals is the time to THINK about upgrading the plenum. Hope that helps:cheers:

Hi guys, are you sure you wouldn't get more performance spending your money on something else, something that actually makes more power? Or is this a "rice" buy?

Hi guys, I prefer to deal with facts that I can see, and I have a dyno graph that shows 438.7 rwhp, so I will work with that until I have some other facts. Assuming the car has the standard gearbox and diff ratios and the usual tyre diameter, it makes max power at ~5,900 rpm. To me this seems a little low considering the cams have been upgraded. I would expect around 6,250 to 6,400 rpm for max power, so this in itself is an interesting result. The outcome of that is a shortening in the useable rpm range, which will adversely affects its times. To run times commensurate with the max power, a car has to have at least 50% of the max power available after the upchange (1st to 2nd being the widest ratio change in a Skyline gearbox). The dyno graph shows 420 rwhp at 6,500 rpm and 160 rwhp at 3,500 rpm, this is less than 40% (38% in fact). So in my ever so humble opinion, the car will never run the times in line with its max power until the resulting "hole" in the acceleration curve is fixed or a close ratio gearbox is fitted. The rather savage drop off to ~100rwhp at 3,000 rpm will make getting it off the line extremely difficult, I suspect it will either be bog and die or wheelspin city. It will need someone of reasonable experience and quite a few runs to get anything like its best. Even then it will still be a compromise. The average power (3,500 rpm to 6,500 rpm) works out at 345 rwhp, which is very respectable and only around 20-25rwhp less than I would have expected. Bottom line, based on the max power (438.7 rwhp) it should do 11.6/7 at ~125 mph, but my guess (and it is a guess) would be lucky to get into the 11's at all. My 20 cents worth. PS; it always makes the power curve look nice when you start it at 80kph (~2,900 rpm) and stop it at 180 kph (~6,450 rpm).

Take a look at the Stagea front guards, you will find that they are much higher than Skyline guards. This means you can't use Skyline front guards on a Stagea, plus the door trim and the crease lines are in different places. So you have to buy aftermarket guards. Otherwise everything off an R34 would fit (bonnet, headlights, radiator support panel, bonnet latch mechanism, bumper, inner guards etc). There is one other thing you need to do and that is make spacers to lift the bonnet up to the height of the guards. In summary, sounds easy but it isn't.

Grab a hold of the rod and pull it down, push it up and twist it. It should have very little movement. It is indeed a press fit, a 5+ tonne press is needed to remove/replace. Hope that helps:cheers:

Leak down test would be my first choice, then have the oil tested for contaminents.

I would run the catch can venting to atmosphere for a while and see if that fixes the problem.

Stabiliser bars are sooooo easy to install, this is how I do it. Drive car onto ramps Chock it, handbrake on, in gear Unbolt the links. remember where they were bolted Unbolt the D bush brackets and remove the std bar Put new D bushes on Whiteline bar, first smear some lubricant on the inside of the D bushes Fit brackets ove D bushes and lift bar into and bolt up Fit new links, first smear some lubricant on the inside of the link bushes Check bolts Do same for other end. Hope that helps:cheers:

Hi Boris, I'll try and answer briefly, I have yet to see a circuit with 1000 bhp, they mostly max around the 600 to 700 bhp. This is to keep the response up, far more important on the circuit. The best the ATTESSA will do is 50% to the front, so it can never get to what I would consider the "front wheel drive" stage. We run the circuit cars around 20 to 30% front drive. If you have too much drive to the front the tyres start to overheat, from the turning, braking and powering. The rear tyres don't do any turning and 40% less braking. So you balance the tyre load out, that's why GTR's were such circuit race killers. Hope that answered your questions:cheers: