Sydneykid

Here! Here! A good choice:cheers:

This is how I did it on the Stagea; And you get at the nut at the rear (14 mm socket and medium extension), it is a bit hidden up above the radius rod bush; For some reason code is OFF. Why? If you can't see the picture, go the the Stagea Suspension thread, it's all there.

I totally disagree, the OS kit has the same bore and stroke as the RB30, but it uses the shorter RB26 rod length. This means a less than ideal rod/stroke ratio. So given equal component strength, the RB30 will rev more and put less side load on the rods because they are longer. This is possible because the RB30 block is taller than the RB26 block with the OS liners and spacer plate. This means the RB30 is in fact stronger.

I like the second (high) tensioner mount, same as this. Personally I think the tensioners get too close together when they are both mounted low and the teeth face each other. Any slacknes in the belt or a bit of whip and the opposing teeth will rip each other to pieces as they are travelling in opposite directions at big RPM.

It only takes a few seconds to change the master correction, until I get to do a proper tune, it is the best way I have found. Going though the maps and changing 400 load points by the same amount is a waste of time as you have to tune it properly soon anyway. Guessing a single % for the whole rpm and load range is not a good idea. If you are going to carry out minor upgrades often, then you should look at a Datalogit, it's very simple then.

That's OK Roy, but if you really want to drain the oil completely, then i would suggest pulling the spark plugs and building oil pressure on the starter motor. Then you are quite safe. I haven't measured this is in an RB engine, but I have in a couple of others and found that there is far more oil trapped in the engine itself (particularly cam covers) that doesn't get changed. Oil coolers look like they hold a lot, but they are mostly fins, the actual oil retained is quite small. If you change the oil often, as is usually the case with circuit use, I really don't know how much you achieve. That said I have a friend who does "double" oil changes, he drains the old oil (5,000 ks') changes the oil filter, adds new oil, and runs the engine for 5 minutes. He then drains the oil again, changes the filter and fills it with new oil. He reckons that's the only way to do a complete oil change. I think he is crazy, but he is now on his third high performance car that has done over 250,000 k's without any engine work. Even when he gets a new car, he lets the dealer do the oil changes, then he does it again as soon as he gets home. He reckons I only do "half" an oil change, hell maybe he's right:cheers:

RB20DET and RB25DET (both Neo and non Neo) turbos are ball bearing. The oil does not drain back into my sumps when I turn my engines off. They get oil pressure on initial cranking, that would not be possible if it drained back. Plus where does the air come from to replace the oil in the cooler? There is no air feed possible, the oil pump is fed from the pickup which is immersed in oil and the other side of the cooler is plumbed into the oil galleries which are filled with oil and higher than the oil cooler. So the oil won't drain up wards or past the oil pump or leave a partial vacuum in the cooler.

Is it ducted to ensure that ALL the air that comes in the vent goes though the cooler? Have you opened up the exit vents in the plastic inner guard panel?

Mine idles beautifully and the revs increase by less than 100 rpm for an instant when the brake is depressed and then it quickly returns to its nice stable 700 rpm.

Hi Adrian, I have not tried MS103 but looking at the data sheet it looks much like Elf LMS which I have used with much success. Oxygen content is good at 2.55%, it's a bit light at 0.744, so I don't think you could lean it out as much as LMS. The RON at 107 and MON at 99 indicate some serious ignition advance may be possible. The ECU would definitely need retuning to get the best out of it, you couldn't just stick it in the tank and expect to gain something. Hope that helps:cheers:

Centreline (Chris) or Traction Tyres (Andrew)

I like 2530's, I prefer their average power. The GTSS's have more lower in the rpm range but not much, they loose more in the top end. I never use plain bearing turbos so the Trust's would not be on my list. I think 2540 's are the worst turbo pairing HKS have ever sold, they have a big mismatch between turbine and compressor sizing. Bottom line, the GTR with the 2530 's made more power EVERYWHERE than standard and that's was enough for me.

Hi Alf, I would stick it all in, that's what I do. It is so much easier to do on the engine stand than once it is installed in the car. I simply take 700 cc vs 370 cc out of fhe master fuel correction on the PFC Commander (about 45%). Remember to do that every time you turn off the engine as the Power FC does not retain master corrections. Hope that helps:cheers:

Hi Justin, suggestions follow; 1. Loose the thermostat, they are not necessary in Australia, it never gets cold enough. 2. I never mount oil coolers in front of the radiator, the oil cooler doesn't work as well because the radiator is behind it distrurbing the airflow exit. The radiator doesn't work properly either because it is getting hot air from the oil cooler plus disturbed airflow. 3. I always mount the oil cooler in the RHS vent as the LHS vent has the ambient air intake for the engine. 4. I always use aluminium ducting ro make sure that ALL of the air that comes in though the vent goes though the oil cooler. If you just hang the oil cooler out there, the air will go around it because that is the easiest path. 5. I never run oil temperature much over 105 degrees celsius 6. If the water temp is normal, changing the radiator WILL NOT lower the oil temperature. If the water temp is high it will, but only very slightly. 7. When you change from oil cooled turbos (plain bearing) to water cooled turbos (ball bearing) you will notice a drop in the oil temperature, but no real increase in the water temp. Hope that helps:cheers:

Ahh yes, but the premier GTR (the R34 N1) has ball bearing turbos, so maybe Nissan learnt something between 1989 and 1999.

RHS = drivers side, when the steering wheel is on the RHS. LHS = passengers side, when the steering wheel is on the RHS. But there are readers in the US and other countries, where the steering wheel is on the LHS, so I try not to use "drivers side" as it just confuses them. The air inlet to the turbos is on the LHS, logically that is where you would put the ambient air intake for the engine. So the oil cooler goes on the other (RHS). There is no difference between R32/33/34 GTR's in that regard. Hope that clarifies:cheers:

Hi Mr GTS4, that pipe plumbs into the inlet after the AFM, so the engine is getting un metered air. Air that the ECU doesn't know about, so it isn't adding fuel for. It is unfiltered (dirty) air as well, so not all is good. If the A/F ratio is 9 t o1 then its time you did some correction, an SAFC or ECU upgrade would give good results by the sound of it. Hope that helps:cheers:

Hi J, common problem, you just lead a sheltered life. Has the brake pedal effort increased noticeably since it started this? If it has, then it's a hole in the brake master cylinder diaphram, ouch not cheap. If the pedal effort hasn't increased (even slightly) then it's the one way valve in the line from the plenum to the master cylinder, it stops boost getting past. If the pedal effort has increased a lttle bit (maybe hardly noticeable) then it's the hoses/clamps, either the clamp/s will be loose or one of the hoses has a split in it. Hope that helps, please let me know what it ends up being:cheers:

Hi Justin, suggestions follow; 1. Loose the thermostat, they are not necessary in Australia, it never gets cold enough. 2. I never mount oil coolers in front of the radiator, the oil cooler doesn't work as well because the radiator is behind it distrurbing the airflow exit. The radiator doesn't work properly either because it is getting hot air from the oil cooler plus disturbed airflow. 3. I always mount the oil cooler in the RHS vent as the LHS vent has the ambient air intake for the engine. 4. I always use aluminium ducting ro make sure that ALL of the air that comes in though the vent goes though the oil cooler. If you just hang the oil cooler out there, the air will go around it because that is the easiest path. 5. I never run oil temperature much over 105 degrees celsius 6. If the water temp is normal, changing the radiator WILL NOT lower the oil temperature. If the water temp is high it will, but only very slightly. 7. When you change from oil cooled turbos (plain bearing) to water cooled turbos (ball bearing) you will notice a drop in the oil temperature, but no real increase in the water temp. Hope that helps:cheers:

Yes, I did try the cranking test, the new battery has raised the rev limit from 300 rpm to 500 rpm. Now if I can only remember the number of teeth on the ring gear I can work out how many rpm that is at the starter motor. I know it's here somewhere...................... :whip: PS; the real reason for the big battery wasn't cranking, the small one didn't have enough grunt to keep the JB & Cola tinnies cool in the esky/fridge. :elaugh:

It's just a Dack Dack with water:cheers:

For sale section:cheers:

Cam covers, you took them off to paint them. Skylines don't have rockers, so no "rocker covers", they have "cam covers". There is one pipe between the cam covers. There is one pipe that goes to the inlet after the AFM and before the turbos. There is a third pipe the goes to the inlet plenum. The PCV valve is on the side of the RHS (drivers) cam cover, the hose goes from it to another fitting on the inlet plenum. Check those 3 hoses and their clamps:cheers:

We buy all the race car, computer, timing equipment, phone and 2way batteries from the same guy, so I think he looked after me a bit. It was around $100 from memory, plus GST of course. It is one of the no maintenance, hi sulphur (or is it low sulphur), super duper, heavy duty things.

Can't say as I've seen 130 RON, the unusual ones are; AVSP11, that's 107 RON but mostly used in racing bikes (2 and 4 stroke). AVGAS 2T, it's 120 RON, only used in 2 stroke racing, bikes, snowmobiles, water bikes, jet skis and outboards AtmoBoost is 106 RON and leaded, but not oxygenated. Good for high rpm N/A engines that need lead. So I think it must be TurboBoost at 115 RON, which was around $7 a litre last time I bought it. But it has been my experience that TurboMax makes better horsepower higher in the RPM range.