Sydneykid

Hi Cam, I have only seen it done to fix driveablity problems on cars with big turbos and cams. So I guess you could say it improves driveability on them, otherwise it wouldn't be done. I have no idea what it would do to driveability on a less radical engine. Maybe that's the answer, don't bother unless you have that problem. Not sure what you mean by performance. If you mean power output, than I can't see why it would give any performance increase, I can get accurate A/F ratios with the AFM in the usual place. Except I guess, as per above, when the big turbo/cams problem causes a drop in performance. It is also handy as you only have to run one AFM, a 90 mm Q45 fits nicely in the intercooler to plenum/throttle body pipework. Plus you get to do the Japanese "thing" and run the turbos open mouth..........

Ah no, it suites the standard GTST injectors, same as the standard ecu. Power FC's are always plug and play. As per usual, you can use GTR injectors with the GTR resistor pack.

Hi Steve, this is the first time I have heard anyone that didn't pick up ~25 rwkw average power increase with an SAFC install on an RB25. They also loose that annoying droop in the power curve that costs ~35 rwkw, just when you need it. I have always seen more power, nicer to drive and better fuel economy and for ~$400 that's hard to beat. That said, I would always spend the extra ~$500 on a Power FC for a manual, but when you have an auto, the SAFC is not such a bad thing.

OK, help me out here...... I always thought 180 degrees was a straight line, why do you have a "bend" in a straight line?:confused:

Hi Charlie, we ran Autronic ECU's in the BMW SuperTourers with the Pi System 4 dash and datalogger. They were great, never had a problem with the ECU. Also used them in the V8Supercars until Motec became the "Control ECU". Never had an Autronic on an RB engine, but I can't see any reason why they wouldn't work perfectly. When the Aussie dollar dropped, the Pi Systems got sooooo expensive, we moved to Motec Dash and loggers as a result. So it seemed logical to use the Motec ECU's at the same time, wiring harness and software interfaces. I got used to the Motec data interpretation so we stuck with it. Even with the dollar a lot stronger lately, the Motec Dask/logger is still cheaper than the Pi equivalents. If not we would probably still be using the Autronic ECU's. The Autronic A/R interpretor and Lambda sensor are relatively inexpensive and work very well with the Autronic self tune software. Set up the aim tables and drive it around and it tunes very well. Only takes a few minutes on the dyno to get it spot on. You will probably find the Autronic ECU and CDI units to be a bit cheaper than the Motec equivalents, maybe finding a good Autronic tuner is slightly more difficult though.

Lets start off by saying that I am not claiming that the Motec is better than the Autronic, it is just that we have used more Motec recently and so can relate our real world experiences. We run staged injectors, the M600 can turn them on and off individually. So we can run 6 smaller injectors up to a predermined rpm/load point, then switch them off and run 6 larger injectors from then on. Or we can run 6 then switch in another 6, thus running 12 injectors for higher rpm. Each single injector can be individually tuned via a F&W lambda sensor in each of the primary exhaust pipes. We run the Motec CDI firing Mercury outboard coils (they are designed to run with CDI). Each single coil can be individually tuned. The M600 is plugged into a Motec Dash with full data logging using the standard Motec harness. We run anti lag and launch control with multi stage rev limiting and shift light indication on the Motec Dash. All are independantly adjustable. There are over 50 sensors on the car, logging everything from drive train strain to shock absorber deflection to coolant pressure. From memory the all up cost of the Motec ECU, CDI, coils, Dash, Software, wiring harness, sensors and installtion was a little over $20K. The cost of fabricating the mounting hardware for the dash and the sensors not included. Hope that helps:cheers:

I have seen a GTR with a 90 mm Q45 AFM plumbed in between the inlet plenum and the intercooler. Saves the reversion problem with big cams and turbos that you can get when the AFM is located just before the turbo. That GTR had a Power FC, I don't think the Emanage has anywhere near enough adjustment parameters to handle the necessary tuning changes.

Hi Guys, under the oil pump, in the price panel it says "Oil Pan Baffle Plate". So that is NOT the price for the pump. The part number in the panel under the oil pump is 193034, that's the Tomei part number for the "Oil Pan Baffle Plate". It is NOT the part number for the pump. If you asked the distributor for their price based on that part number, then when you order it you will get "Oil Pan Baffle Plate" NOT an oil pump. My guess, the web site designer mixed up the price panels. PS; if you can get the oil pump for Yen 19,800 I will take 5 please.

Sorry wsln33, I gotta dissagree, the intercooler pipework length makes no diference to torque. Using a 120 degree bend at the throttle body reduces the difference by more than 50%, to a bit less than 1 litre using 75 mm pipework. To work out the throttle response difference the calculations are easy; 2500 cc X 5000 rpm / 2 (4 stroke) at 1.3 bar = 135 litres per second So a saving of 1 litre represents less than 0.005 of a second That's not a lot of lag to save with reduced pipework. Not a good idea in my opinion, especially when you consider the potential to loose throttle response due to poor airflow distribution is far greater than that.

Hi guys, both dynos are in Shoot Out Mode, so the power outputs should be totally comparable. That's why Dyno Dynamics "invented" shoot out mode" so the numbers are comparable no matter what temperature the day is, or the humidity or the altitude. The higher inlet temp on the second dyno run would result in a real world lower power output, so SOM compensates. Thus the 157 rwkw (before PFC) is totally comparable with the 204 rwkw (after PFC). Whether the 157 or the 204 are perfectly accurate is a totally different question:cheers:

For drone prevention I have found that a "larger" muffler in the middle with a "smaller" muffler at the rear is more effective than a "smaller" muffler in the middle with a "larger" muffler at the rear. For a road only or combo car, a 3 1/4" (80 mm) seems to work well on RB's. Once you get to 3 1/2" and larger they get tricky to shut up at all rpm ranges.

Hi guys, there seems to be some general belief here that you have to decrease the horsepower in order to decrease the noise. This has NOT been my experience, I have decreased the noise on a number of cars and actually increased the horsepower. You have to choose the components and sizes appropriately.

The air deflectors make sure that all of the air that goes in through the grill (top and bottom) goes through the intercooler, transmission cooler, power steering fluid cooler or radiator. That none of it goes over the top of the radiator when the bonnet lifts at speed. Plus, as you said, it stop the hot air from the coolers getting into the inlet snorkel, mostly at low speeds.

Time for a leak down test, both of you.

We have 25 guys at work who drive Vic registered cars, they are here for 6 months every year. Never had a problem, been doing it for 20 years. Next time you are in Qld on holidays pick up the forms. The Sunshine Coast is good as it is considered "country". On the licence/registration/insurance application forms it has provision for a residential address (where you are staying on holidays will do) and a postal address. All the correspondence goes to the postal address. So you get a post box in Qld (~$25 per year). Share it amongst a few friends if you like. Then you get a redirection from the Qld post office to your "temporary address" interstate (costs about $10 for 6 months). They onforward all the mail (licence, rego and insurance renewal for example) to you at home. You pay/renew via the post. So you get a cheap Qld licence, rego and country insurance. Pays for the Post Office Box and redirection 10 times over. I, of course, would never do such a thing.

Sorry siks11, I was working on the HSV/Tickford/FPV vehicles, one of the things that rattle their cage in Victoria (and I understand the reason why it was P platers only) is that Holden/Ford were worried that they might see headlines like ......................HSV VEHICLES UNSAFE FOR YOUNG DRIVERS................ Subaru doesn't have much clout and Nissan would like for Skylines to dissappear from Australia completely, but Holden are NOT impressed. It would damage their market for new HSV's and kill off the used HSV market rather rapidly. So pop into your local HSV dealer and ask if their cars are OK for young drivers. The dealers complain to Holden and Holden lobbies the Govt. I dropped into Suttons on Saturday, I had 3 sales guys arguing over whether a GTO was OK for a 21 year old not on P plates. Bet they made a few calls to HSV on Monday. Might drop into an FPV dealer next weekend and try the same on a XR6 turbo.

That's the silly part, you can drive a 200 kw monster, as long as it weighs 1.6 tonnes or more. So what's more scary? An 18 year old with a 162 kw Skyline that weighs 1400 kgs or an 18 year old with a 170 kw Landcruiser that weighs 2.5 tonnes? There are huge holes in the logic of these proposals, we just have to keep pointing them out.

Unfortunately not, this weekend was the Island Magic meeting at Philip Island and we had a new engine and a new gearbox to fit last weekend. No time for the fun stuff:cheers:

Nope badge engineering is the go; RX badge on WRX (go FMIC and fit RX bonnet) V6 badge on V8 (Single exhaust) GTS badge on GTST (they wouldn't know anyway) GLi badge on EVO (there are enough fake Evo's body kits out there to hide amongst) CXi badge on Type R (rocker cover change) Or interstate rego, that really stuffs them up. A PO box in Queensland is cheap.

Current WRX's are 168 / 1395 = 120 kw per tonne. OH that's right, it's 125 kw per tonne plus some lower powered cars if we (the Govt) decide it.

Some questions to ask your local member, State and Federal......... We only have one car in the family and it's a standard V6 Commodore that has more than 125 kw per tonne? Do I have to sell it and buy a lower powered car so that my 25 year old son can drive it? How do I tow my boat? My company only has Commodores and Falcons, that's all we are allowed to have. Last year it was Commodores and this year they changed to Falcons because Ford gave better prices. We have to keep the cars for 3 years or 100,000k's whichever comes first. Do I have to change jobs because the car I drive has more than 125 kw per tonne? So by setting the limit at 125 kw per tonne the government is saying that Falcons and Comodores are unsafe in the hands of "inexperienced" drivers? What do Ford and Holden think about that? Remember we are not talking about HSV's here, or V8's or turbo chargers or XR's, this is the LOWEST powered new Commodore and Falcon you can buy. The repmobiles, the highest selling cars in Australia. What do Ford and Holden think about that? Then ask these questions of Ford and Holden, they have more clout than we do..............

The question is, is it a plumbing problem or an electronic set up problem. The way I do it; Eliminate the plumbing possibility first. Unplug the wiring from boost control solenoid, but leave the vacuum hoses. You should have standard boost, the only thing holding the wastegate closed is the spring rate in the wastegate actuator. If you have normal (low boost) then it is an electronic set up problem. Reconnect the wiring and read the set up instructions. Set it up EXACTLY as per the instructions. Hope that helps:cheers:

You didn't go down the Hume did you? Turn off at Wagga and go inland, the border sniffers can wait in Wodonga as long as they like.

Hi7heavn, you should add traction and aerodynamics as other variables:cheers:

Sorry not enough data to make a call. R32 or R33 or R34? GTST, GTR or GTT? Manual or Auto?