Sydneykid

Any one work in a customs house (or knows someone that does) who can confirm that the USA Australia Free Trade Agreement means that there will be no Import Duty on on parts (such as turbos) brought in direct from the USA. I assume that there will still be GST at 10% but even that will be less as it used to be based on the price after the Duty was added. This means my $US1600 turbo should be $A230 cheaper.

Absolutely correct Chris, all the N1 pump does is run at a higher relief pressure. Jun, HKS, Trust and a couple of others make pumps that actually flow more. I don't know what prices you get over there, but I can buy a complete Peterson 4 stage dry sump system for less than Jun want for a replacement pump. Both still require sump mods, so it pretty easy to understand why I go for the dry sump option on the race cars. On the road cars I simply fit a stronger pressure relief spring to the standard GTR oil pump, then it's the same as an N1 pump, costs about $2.

Thanks for that, the standard rear camber adjusters seem to commonly remove 0.3 to 0.5 degrees of the negative. Yours and mine are both examples of that. So the camber bushes in the rear are pretty much always needed. Sometimes even two sets (both inner and outer bushes) are needed when they are lowered a fair bit. You are so right about the stabiliser bars, they make such a difference to handling and feel of a Stagea. The technical stuff......Being a waggon they have a lot of weight high up in the rear that is simply not there in a sedan or a coupe, that means the centre of mass is higher. Since the rear suspension is the same, the roll centre is in the same place as the sedans and coupes. This means the roll couple (distance between the roll centre and the centre of mass) is much greater and the waggons roll more for the same amount of G force (same speed and corner). That's at the rear, the front roll couple is not much different, that's why I did a big upgrade on the rear and a smaller upgrade on the front. The non technical stuff.....I reckon upgrading the stabiliser bars is always a worthwhile mod on a Skyline sedan and coupe, doing it on a Stagea waggon is a must. The big difference I feel is when I get 2 corners close together, before it would still be recovering from the first corner when I needed to turn for the second corner. Now it is just flick flick with the steering wheel and both corners are goooooone. Now I just need to track down my Bilsteins............

You need to be careful when selecting Walbro pumps. As you can see from the attached, the GSS341 is rated at 255 lph, that's at zero boost and at 13.5 volts. If you install one in tank with the standard Skyline wiring it will run at 12 volts, that's 215 lph. Then add some boost, say 20 psi (1.35 bar) and they are down to 180 lph. Bosh pumps on the other hand are rated at 73.5 psi, that's a rail pressure of say 40 psi plus 33.5 psi (2.3 bar) boost. That is why, generally speaking, Bosch pumps are physically larger, they need to be to provide the pumping torque at their high rated pressures. If you are looking at running high'ish boost or upping the rail pressure, then this feature is more likely to appeal. The same guys that tested the Walbro pumps also tested a number of Nissan pumps. If you take a look at the following graph you can see that a standard R33 GTR fuel pump out flows the Walbro GSS341 at 13.5 volts and 30 psi by about 10%. The standard Z32 fuel pump is 5% better than the GSS341 (the standard R32 GTR fuel pump is basically the same as the Z32). Hope that is of some use.

OK, let's start with some common terminology; rwhp = rear wheel horsepower (using a roller style dyno) rwkw = rear wheel killowatts (using a roller style dyno) bhp = brake horsepower (at the engine) kw = killowatts (at the engine) rhhp = rear hub horsepower (using a dyno that attaches to the rear hubs) 4whp = four wheel horsepower (using a roller style dyno) 4hhp = four hub horsepower (using a dyno that attaches to the 4 hubs) It has been my experience that Skylines don't loose a fixed percentage between the engine and the rollers. Whether the car has 200 rwkw or 500 rwkw, the losses end up between 55 kw (small gearbox, diff etc) and 75 kw (large gearbox, diff etc). GTR's and Stageas loose around 15 kw more due to 4wd. So if you want 350 rwhp (260 rwkw) you will need ~430 bhp (320 kw). I have never seen an RB20 with standard cams make anywhere near that. Ours makes 225 rwkw (360 bhp) with GTR cams, adj camshaft pulleys, split dump, ball bearing hi flow RB25 turbo, POD filter, heat shield, ambient air feed, Power FC with Boost Control Kit, split dump/engine pipe combo, no cat, 3.25" exhaust. The standard injectors are 270 cc, so good for around 270 bhp, again no where near enough. Moving onto internals, to make over 400 bhp I have found forged internals (pistons and rods) are necessary as you have to increase the rpm to get a decent (wide) power band. Otherwise a close ratio gearbox will be necessary. So I suggest you add up all the costs and then make a decision, most people here find once your RB20 target exceeds 240 rwkw it is far cheaper to go RB25 or RB26 or RB30. As Steve-SST suggested, the RB26 is somewhat more attractive. As Maxx suggested, take a look at the RB20 power comparison thread, it has most of the info you need. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&highlight=RB20 Hope that is of some help:cheers:

Typical Stagea, same as mine, 0.4 degrees negative on the front and 1.3 degrees negative on the rear. Do you know if the tried using the standard camber adjusters on the rear to take some off? Or was that using their full adjustment? If that's the case, it needs adj camber bushes. Caster is good, standard they don't make much more than 3 degrees positive, 5 is so much better. No wonder the steering is improved.

A Bosch 044 pump is rated at 12 volts for 200 litres per hour at 73.5 psi (40 psi fuel pressure plus 33.5 psi boost). If it is not pumping "against" that pressure the flow increases, it isn't linear either (ie; 36.75 psi is more than 400 litres per hour). They are around 10% conservatively underated. Plus I run mine at 13. 8 volts, being the alternator output voltage. For a practical test, I measured the return flow (from the fuel pressure regulator to the tank) on a 650 bhp engine. There was enough fuel over supplied for at least another 100 bhp. So I believe the 730 bhp rating to be reasonable, as long as the rest of the fuel system is up to it of course. Hope that helps:cheers: PS, that engine was running Elf LMS, results may differ with other fuels.

I am not one for put downs, it's simply not my style. But sometimes I make an exception.... 1,100 ps at 29 psi and 8.45 for the 1/4 at 165 mph. And it uses a POWER FC, maybe you are the one who should get your car tuned with a PROPER ECU! :Bang:

More clarification, OK..........BHP per cc is not exact, the more appropriate calculation is by using the mass of the fuel rather than its volume. So the specific gravity of the fuel used is an important requirement. Most cars running 800 bhp won't be using "normal" fuel. Elf Turbo Max for example, has a higher oxygen content matched to a higher calourific value. So using it, 800 bhp out of 800 cc injecors would be a snap. Similar would apply to other fuels typically used in that application.

My 20 cents worth, 800 cc = 800 bhp after allowing for 85% duty cycle. Every new aftermarket injector I have tested flows more than their rating. I have seen 850 cc injectors flow 875 cc's, 550 cc injectors flow 568 cc's etc. I have found it to be quite safe to add ~10% to the flow with fuel pressure increases. I would be surpised if you couldn't get 900 bhp out of 800 cc rated injectors. That said, if you have to buy them, 1,000 cc injectors can sometimes cost less than 800 cc injectors. Hope that helps:cheers:

PS; the standard RB20DET turbo is not going to handle 14 psi.

My suggestions follow; 1. With that list of mods you are going to be lucky to get to 170 rwkw, as you have no tuning capability. 2. The standard pump will handle that. The next step up is usually swapping to a standard GTR pump, good for ~265 rwkw, they don't need a relay or wiring changes. 3. There are many ways to plumb up a fuel supply system, at your target power level don't worry about them. Simply take the GTST pump out and stick a GTR pump in. 4. To get a little more out of the injectors you raise the fuel pressure at the rail. OK to do if you only need say 10% more flow, any more than that and it is better to upgradew the injectors. 5. Yes, it has all been covered many times. You just need to learn the correct terminology. Don't forget to search the content of posts, not the title of the thread. Hope that helps:cheers: PS; the standard RB20DET turbo is not going to handle 14 psi.

No problems, what I can, I share. For interest sake, what wheel alignment settings did you end up with?

Sorry I am not going to be much help with this stuff. Each State is quite different, so you should really talk to a WA certified engineer. I have seen some pretty hairy cars "engineered" in WA, that wouldn't pass in NSW, wouldn't have a hope in Vic and would be exported from SA. Let me warn you early on that, not only will it be difficult to get what you would want engineered, it will COST.

Basically everything you have listed is technically illegal. The tyres are too wide, the rims too big, bleed valves change the emmisisions, Power FC isn't the standard ECU, the exhaust might be too loud or it might increase emmissions, etc etc:cheers:

Everday I had time it wasn't hot, but yesterday was a ripper 30+ degrees and I was driving around in traffic and on the freeway. Stagea air snorkel scoop temperature test. The Ambient Temperature (AT) sensor was placed in the air stream just behind the grill. The Air Filter Temperature (AFT) sensor was placed on top of the air filter in the standard airbox. The testing process was; 1. I parked the car facing the sun for 2 hours. 2. I then drove at 50 kph max without stopping for 1 minute 3. I then drove at 70 kph max without slowing/stopping much for 5 minutes 4. I stopped with cars around, at the traffic lights & checked the temps just before I drove off 5. I checked the temps again after 10 seconds of driving 6. I then drove for 10 minutes at up to 110 kph, these are the minimum temps I saw 7. I then drove around a parking lot very slowly for 1 minute and checked the temps as soon as I stopped Test AT.... AFT 1... 33.7... 64.5 2... 32.5... 40.3 3... 31.8... 35.4 4... 32.5... 61.4 5... 32.8... 52.5 6... 31.8... 33.2 7... 32.2... 55.0 My observations on the results; Anybody who thinks its OK to have a POD with no heat shield and no ambient air feed needs to read this. I was measuring the temperature of the air itself, not the temperature of the things that the air goes through/around. Just because the airbox itself is hot, doesn't mean the air inside it is equally as hot. It doesn't take very long for the air to heat up, but it takes a lot longer for it to cool down. I am satisfied that the scoop design works as intended Pictures The first is the temperature sensor probe inside the airbox The second is the ambient air temperature sensor probe, I taped it behind the grill during the tests The third is the temp displays themselves, they are handy things to have, cost ~$35 each from Jaycar. They don't react super quickly to temperature changes, the probes are quite large, they take a little bit of time to cool down themselves. So I think the actuals results of test 5 are quite a bit better than what the gauge showed. Hope this is of some help:cheers:

The WRX is basically a front wheel drive car that can aportion some drive to the rear. They took a front wheel drive chassis designed for low power and simply added a tailshaft and a diff at the rear. The "centre diff" was mechanically based, no electronics, it simply looked at the realtive front and rear diff rpms and tried to match them. Consequently they always the display the fundamental chassis characterisitics of a front wheel drive car. The later generations are slightly better, with improved roll centres and more integrated rear drive systems. Evo's are much the same, although Mitsubishi spent a but more time (money) properly integrating the 4wd much earlier in their model life. With this front wheel drive dynamic they make the basis of a pretty good rally car, but any comparison between a WRC car and a road car is a complete waste of time. In comparison the R32 GTR was always going to be a 4wd, but coming from a rear drive chassis. It was designed for one thing and that was to win Group A Circuit Races. It had to have the handling characteristics and therefore chassis dynamics that suited circuit racing, hence the rapid turn in and throttle control from a rear drive bias. The front drive was there to prolong the tyre life, take the power transfer loadings off the rear tyres. Hence the ATTESSA system was designed to kick in when the rear tyres were displaying slip in comparison to the front. Such as that encountered in straight lines or cornering, this required computational electronics and hydraulic activation. Very early in the design process Nissan found that it simply wasn't necessary to have the front wheels driving all the time. It soaked up power, used more fuel and gave out more emmisions for no benefit, so it was eliminated from the programming wherever possible. This also resulted in longer ATTESSA clutch life. So whenever possible they run rear drive, this doesn't mean that all the time when you are driving in a straight line. The ATTESSA has certain parameters before it makes that decision. That said, I never saw a circuit racing Group A GTR that used the standard ATTESSA ECU, the ones I have seen used a manual (driver selected) operation. Having been involved in setting up a few GTR chassis, the 4wd adjustability adds a heap of variables to the possible set up. Add that to adj stabiliser bars, adj ride height, adj roll centres, adj camber, adj caster, adj toe, quad adj shock absorbers and many possible spring rate combinations. As I have said previously, it makes my brain ache. The Wallys of the world found this rear drive bias (holy crap, oversteer is possible) to be not to their liking. Since this includes most (not all) of the people with money enough to buy a new GTR in Japan, Nissan added a bit more front drive in later generation GTR's. This lowers the rear drive bias and makes the Wallys feel more comfortable when pushing their (small) envelope. Plus computational power increased and they were able to add more parameters and faster responses (think of what a PC was in 1989 and what is was in 2003). So anyone who buys an R32 GTR and expects it to handle like a front wheel drive car is going be dissappointed.

The only one I have seen over 64.4 cc's had deep seated valves. Somebody had been doing a bit of amature valve seat grinding.

The HKS split dumps are really a bit short, the wastegate outlet joins too close to the turbine. But R32 GTR dumps are not so good, so any upgrade is worthwhile. Since I always wrap dumps and engine pipes I am not going to worry about getting them made in stainless. You can't see them anyway.

Hi J make sure you test out the auto shift quality for us:cheers:

As Jay said the stnard springs are a pretty good rate, but if my shocks are anything to go by, they are the most in need of replacing. I have already done the stabiliser bars, highly recommended upgrade (there is a thread on Stagea Suspension have a read)

Well, Julian and I have "spoken" a few times, I simply don't agree with his opinion on R32 GTR's. He thinks they fail in their design because the "Wallys" can get into trouble. I believe that they are excellent in their design as they enable good lap times, maintained over long periods when driven by "Drivers". Each to his own. The later GTR's have faster and more powerful ATESSA ECU's. Some "Drivers" say they take the enjoyment out of driving, but they are more benign for the "Wallys" More clutches in the ATESSA also speed up the transfer of torque as well as making it happen. In a high power GTR with plenty of grip, the standard clutch packs slip too much so you can get slower activation and, as well, it might not be physically able to get to the desired level. We have ATESSA controllers in both race GTR's (one elctronic one and one purely hydraulic), the drivers use different settings for different conditions. You can adjust both the amount of front drive and the rate of transfer. More front drive in the wet for example. If the rear tyres start to go off, they move a bit more drive to the front. They start the race with zero front and then add about 30% as soon as the car moves off. By the time you add adj stabiliser bars, adj ride height, adj roll centres, quad adjustable shocks, different spring rates to the 4wd controller functions, my brain hurts trying to set them up for different circuits on different days. Hope that helps:cheers:

Between 62 cc's and 65 cc 's, they vary from model to model.

HANG ON, have you got the posters wrong? All of my cars, race and road have BOV's? Just in case you are picking on the right poster, since when have rotary engines had pistons or heads? Headgasket? What's a "slip"?

What happens when you run out of water? I can answer that from experience (someone elses), the engine goes bang. No dashboard knock warning, so you don't even know that it is going to go bang. Yep, you have to use something cause the Microtech has real troubles running the standard ignition. You are not upgrading for performance, the standard coils and ignitor will easily handle 300 rwkw. You are covering up for Microtech's poor capability, not money well spent. Why run 25 psi when the GT35R will give 50 lbs per minute of airflow (more than enough for 300 rwkw) at 19 psi. Much gentler on the engine. Your kidding, right? As can clearly be seen on the compressor map it is way outside its efficiency at 1.5 bar and 50 lbs per minute. At 18 psi it is much more efficient and using 20,000 rpm lower shaft speed. Using 22 psi puts it too close to the surge line at 185 rwkw, which would be in the meat of the much used rpm range. To put it simply, every time you accelerate though 4,000 to 4,750 rpm it is going to require careful tuning to avoid compressor surge Maybe, but much depends on which core you use. Sorry but not in my opinion, there is much better around, for less cost and complexity with lower risk. That's my 20 cents worth:cheers: