Sydneykid

The internals of the R32/33 RB25DETT gearbox and the R33 RB25DET gearbox are pretty much the same. I have seen no evidence that the GTR box is "stronger".

Personally I am not a fan of standard RB vlave springs, even new they are a bit soft for my liking. That said their quality is OK, they don't seem to soften off much. Poncams are designed to work with standard everything else, so I haven't heard of anyone with a problem.

You can buy alluminium friendly paint stripper. I think Selleys make it. www.selleys.com.au

Power porting the compressor and turbine covers is not something I have ever considered. I have done cast iron exhaust manifolds, works very well. I have not experienced any restriction in an RB25DET inlet manifold or throttle body up to 525 bhp so I doubt that it would be worth the cost. Over that, an RB26 top end with inlet manifold is a cheaper proposition when you add it all up. If you are intending to use the GT35R to its potential, then that would be my suggestion. Hope that helps:cheers:

The give away.....top of graph. "Power (KW) [Cor'd] Cor'd = CORRECTED I am not a DynoLog expert, but "CORRECTED" usually means calculated kilowatts at the engine after allowing for a percentage of drive train losses. This is not the same as "RWKW" as seen on a Dyno Dynamics roller dyno.

O'ring on the oil filter itself would be my first port of call:cheers:

Anyone tried an Xforce titanium exhaust?

Is it manual or auto? No Power FC's for auto's, so the SAFC is the go. If its a manual, I would definitely go for the Power FC.

Since it is an 850 bhp turbo, then I would say..................850 bhp.

You can basically power port anything, inlet manifolds, exhaust manifolds, dump pipes, intercooler pipework etc etc. Wastegate positioning and plumbing is a very exact science, welding it to the exhaust housing is a cheap compromise. There are simply better ways.

I suggest you have a close look at your car and you will notice that the front gaurds are cut higher than the rear guards. The angle of the sill determines whether the car is nose up or down, not the centre of wheel to guard measurement. There should be around 10 mm of fall to the front (ie; the sill just behind the front wheel should be 10 mm closer to the ground than the sill just in front of the rear wheel). Hope that helps

Think about a table with 4 legs. If one leg is shorter than the rest, then the table rocks unstably. It easily moves, until the short leg hits the ground, then it stops suddenly. But then it easily rocks/bounces back (diagonally) until the opposite leg hits the ground, then it stops suddenly again. This rocking motion is very unsettling for a car, it jumps around suddenly with only slight inputs (brakes, steering, acceleration etc). This makes it very hard for the driver to feel what is going on. The short leg (in the table example) is actually the suspension corner on the car with the least amount of weight.

I never use drilled rotors, only slotted.

Have you removed the two stage boost? It makes a big difference in first and second.

I haven't been beaten by ANYTHING yet. Stageas are so STEALTH fast. Quiet, no rev/rev dump clutch, no wheelspin ..... just goooone. In the rain it is soooooo good, I had an white R33 GTST (dumped, big exhaust etc ) have 3 goes in the rain last week. First time he wasn't ready to get beaten, ooooops. Second time he tried too hard, wheeeeeeelspin but the Stagea was gooooone again. Third time he tried to slip the clutch to stop the wheelspin, bad luck, see yaaa. Maybe if he hadn't lowered it so much, with too much negative camber and rock hard springs and standard shocks he might have stood a chance, it was toooo easy. Candies and babies comes to mind.

Some explanation required............ RB25's have VVT and RB26's don't. But RB20's don't have VVT, so you CAN use RB26 cams in an RB20. But that wasn't the question.... The question was can you simply swap over the followers from hydraulic to solid And the answer was no, you have to swap everything. Hope that clarifies:cheers:

That test (rather old news) is for a filter for a 6.6 litre diesel truck, you should see the size of the filter. Add that to the engines low rpm airflow requirements.

I shouldn't knock the $150 option too much. I spent ~$5K 3 years ago building a good bottom end that has reliably run 600 - 700 bhp. He spent 3 lots of ~$500 in the same time frame, so he is still ~$3K in front. Maybe you should do up the top end, to make more power at lower boost. Well that's what he would suggest anyway.

Hi Ben, I prefer the Pipercross style with 3 layers of different density foam that are ultrasonically welded (no glue to restrict the flow). They last 3 times longer between cleaning than any single density style. In the Sydney dust and soot we see deterioration after 5,000 ks' in single density filters, regardless of brand. Pipercross cleaning kits, with both oil and cleaner are available from Fabre. http://shop.fabre.com.au/ BTW, 10,000k's is only a guide, I have seen 25,000k's depending on the conditions that the car is driven in.

Once again, the Bilsteins are R33GTR fronts and R33 GTST. The standard Stagea front spring rate is lower than R33 GTR, so the front shocks have no problems handling the Stagea springs (even +30% in rate) and an upgraded stabiliser bar. If you are intending to carry loads in the rear and increasing the spring rate much above standard then I would suggest an upgrade in the rear Bistein valving. If you are going up in the spring rate say 30% or less and not intending to carry heavy loads, then the standard Bilstewin claving will be OK. In my humble opinion the Japs don't know how to valve shock absorbers, the subtleties evade them. Add in Australian roads and they are not worth considering. Whiteline haven't released their Group4 kit for Skylines YET, when they do I would recommend them. Until then it is Bilsteins for me, I have 3 sets on my cars.

That's Ethanol, not Methanol:cheers:

Last time I checked there where over 300 import licences used for Stageas in 2004. So there are a few more to go on the list:cheers:

You have to change everything, valves, springs, followers, seats, guides, retainers and collets. They are all different dimensions to allow for the extra thickness required for the hydraulic followers. Last time I added it up, it was much cheaper to buy an RB26 top end.

Standard R32 GTR dumps are pretty crappy, if nothing else grab a set of late R33 dumps, they are much better

You are already past what I consider safe for the standard RB30 internals. Although I know a guy that always uses standard RB30 internals for ~650 bhp and simply pushes them till they blow. When they do eventually die he simply goes and spends another $150 and buys another one. Throws new, standard rings and bearings in it and quick bore hone. He reckons it is cheaper and easier than building a propper bottom end. Not something that I would do, but hey whatever floats your boat...... As for the T66, this is the compressor map........... As you can see they are quite efficient up to 2.4 bar (35 psi), but you don't get a lot of extra airflow for the extra strain on the engine. They will flow 750 bhp (475 awkw) at 1.5 bar if the top end is capable. The guy I referred to above has a gun RB26 top end (cams, porting etc) it is only the bottom end that he doesn't worry about. Maybe you should consider that as an alternative. Hope that helps:cheers: