Sydneykid

That's not "the lot", for a Skyline that really handles you need; Stabiliser bars, front and rear Adj Camber bushes, front and rear Adj Caster bushes Rear subframe bushes (pineapples) Front strut brace HICAS removal Finish it off with Whiteline springs and Bilsteins shock absorbers. Once fitted, set up the suspension geometry properly (that is not a simplistic toe adjustment at the local tyre service). Hope that helps:cheers:

Hi Dave, you are asking an impossible question. The clearance issues are 3 dimensional, individually the dimensions themselves mean nothing, it's their relationship to each other that matters. You would need a 3 dimensional CAD drawing for them to be useful. To answer your questions; GTST callipers are different to GTR callipers, they are further out from the upright. This allows larger diameter disks, the DBA catalogue tells you how much. Brembo's are larger in diameter, the DBA catalogue tells you how much. The best way to tell if the wheels are going to fit is to look them up for the car that you are using the brakes from. If they fit that car, then chances are they will fit yours, when you put that car's brakes on. For a quick clearance check, take the rotor diameter and add 25 mm to allow for the calliper diameter. Hope that helps:cheers:

Copied from that other thread........... I was talking to a friend in Japan last week about RB20's and he was at a HKS drag meet last year where an RB20 powered R32GTST did a 9.9 at 139 mph on radials. It used HKS drag fuel (Elf TurboMax) with no nitrous. It was a 2.4 litre with a T51 ball bearing turbo, not drastically lightened, road registered of course. Punch those numbers into the drag calculator and it says 575 to 600 bhp. That's pretty damn impressive. PS; he has pictures and will find out which workshop it was from.

What gap?

Ah yes but then I can't use it for other purposes. All uploaded now....

Run out of space on the photo server, I'm working on it.

Does anyone know if Stageas have peak hold injectors? I am getting erratic signals from #1 injector switching at the ECU, which is usually a sign of peak hold injectors. But I thought all RB25DET injectors were high impedance, usually peak hold uses low impedance injectors. Anyone measured the impedance of Stagea injectors?

The Bilsteins go in this weekend, so I measured the centre of wheel to guard heights as it is now; RHS Front 395mm RHS Rear 370 mm LHS Front 395mm LHS Rear 372 mm I am thinking of around 360 rear and 370 front, so I will have to machine some extra circlip grooves. Maybe 6 at 5mm intervals. Need some feedback from the guys that have already lowered theirs, please post up your centre of wheel to guard heights...........

Michelin Pilot.

Try doing a search, if I remember rightly all of the weights where published about 18 months ago.

1.5 X 14.7 = 22 psi Watch the inlet air temperatures, that will tell you when the turbos are outside the efficiency curve.

What is the centre of wheel to guard measurement?

That would be because S14 and S15 owners spend more money on SR's than R32 GTST owners spend on RB20's. I reckon its got diddly squat to do with the basic engine structure. Let's face it, an S14/15 owner can't stick an RB25/26/30 in as easily as an R32 GTST owner can. That's why you don't see many big power RB20DET's, you can get a much more powerful RB25/26/30 for the same upgrade cost. I can easily stick a standard RB26 crank, with forged RB26 rods and a set of forged pistons into an RB20 for 2.4 litres, rev it to 10,500 rpm with 2.5 bar of boost. You can't do that with an SR20, the valve train won't handle it for a start. I work on 3 X SR engines in the SuperTourers (refer picture below) and I can assure you that there is very little SR left in them. Everything has to be upgraded.

The Microtechs work great on rotaries, have had no problems. Don't know if that's good or bad though. :wassup:

My suggestions for plumbing up a catch can. Yes that's right you have CHOICES, there is not a wrong and a right Pretty much the same for a RB26DETT, or an RB20DET or an RB25DET or an RB31DET (in my case). But keep in mind there is no "best way", you choose whichever suites your requirements. I call the choices ; 1. 100% plumb back 2. 50% plumb back 3. Zero% plumb back Let's try this one, it's the open to atmosphere catch can; The idea is to only have one connection from the cam covers as they are joined by the standard pipe. The PCV valve and the connection to the inlet before the turbo are blocked off. You can have a return (drain) to the sump form the catch can if you like. Don't T it into the turbo oil return as it is under a bit of pressure and the oil can run up into the catch can. This one I call the 50% plumb back, because half of the time (no boost times) the air from the catch can is being sucked into the inlet manifold via the PCV valve; It is not my favourite, because you can still get a bit of oily air into the engine, but since it doesn't go in under boost (the PCV valve is closed then) detonation isn't much of an issue. At least you don't get any oil into the intercooler and its pipework. The last is 100% plumb back, all of the air goes back into the engine. Some goes via the PCV valve, at times of no boost. When there is boost, it goes back via the inlet system, through the turbo, the intercooler and its pipework. :uh-huh: The idea is the stainless steel wool, helped by the lower velocity in the catch can, catches the oil and removes it from the air before it goes back into the engine. This is the environmentalists favourite :alien: and is the easiest to get engineered. PS, the PCV valve on RB25's is screwed into the RHS cam cover. For the plumback options (50% and 100%) you would need to move the PCV valve so it is between the catch can and the plenum. For RB20's the PCV valve is screwed into the plenum and so it doesn't need to be moved. Hope that helps:cheers:

The 140 4wkw means around 220 kw at the engine. GTR's loose around 70 to 80 kw through the drive train in 4wd. Maybe another 10 kw for the auto. That's ~50 kw more than a standard S1. Which is pretty good for a panel filter, boost up to 10 psi and cat back exhaust. I reckon ours (standard as it is) would be lucky to make 100 4wkw. That's why I reckon 200 4wkw would be nice, the trick is getting the power everywhere, I don't want to loose any power at any rpm points. It has to have more power everywhere:cheers:

Hi Lone, what sort of 4wkw does your Stagea have? Even in the rain I can't get my standard power one to wheelspin much at all. Just a little rear wheel rotation then the front kicks in and it's offffffffff. I think locking it in 4wd would only help if you had too much rear wheelspin before the fronts start taking some torque. I figure when I get to my power target of 200 4wkw, the 4wd will help a lot. That's weight, once you get over 80 kph, weight becomes less of an issue. Aerodynamic load takes over about 130 kph, so you have this bit between 80 and 130 where they feel really quick. This speed range also matches the engine's power band in third, so that helps as well.Tomorrow I am going to fit the Jaycar stuff and just turn the boost up to 0.7 bar. But I will leave the fuel alone until I can get some time on the 4wd dyno next week. I like these mid week public holidays:cheers:

Sell the 225's and buy a pair of 245's:cheers:

The Stagea weight and traction advantage at work. Have you tried both the handbrake and the foot brake? I am hoping that they can hold 200 4wkw, with the transmission in 4wd of course. PS; the SA guys are organising a Group Buy on MV Automatics valve body upgrades, they should be around $300 exchange. I've put my name down for one. :aroused:

The Stagea stall converter sits at 2,300 rpm with full foot brake, just spins the rear wheels a little bit as it gets to 0.3 bar. It jumps to 0.4 bar (max standard boost on the standard turbo) as soon as it moves off. Put me down for an MV valve body upgrade if there is a group buy on them.

This was a 3.25" cat back, I just grabbed a couple of cones and flanges from the local exhaust shop ~$35). Our race team fabricator welded it up, took about half an hour (say $50 at the exhaust shop). He just copied the dimensions (length) and flange alignment from the straight through (cat replacement) pipe. The guy originally wanted to keep his straight through pipe for track days, but when it made the same power with the cat in he didn't bother.

They are all more "illegal" than a boost upgrade. If I increase the spring rate in the wastegate actuator it would be virtually impossible to detect. On our R34 GTT 3 psi = 15 rwkw max power increase and around 18 rwkw average power increase. Then it was tuned (Power FC ) for that boost level and it picked up another 10 rwkw. It is worth doing, even if you don't tune it. But it really needs to be tuned to get the best from a boost upgrade.

OK R32 chassis (instruments) with R33 wiring harnes and ECU, from memory...... The speedo is a problem, but you know about that The tacho is OK The boost gauge needs its own vacuum hose from the plenum I think it is R32 bottom radiator hose and R33 top hose The fuel pump will need a separate relay, R33's have low and high voltage switching from the ecu We always find it easier to put the engine and gearbox in together, getting at the bell housing bolts with the RB25 gearbox in the R32 firewall/transmission tunnel is way too hard If I think of anything else I will post it up.

This car originally had no cat, just a straight through 3" pipe, got busted for it. Stuck a 4" Magic on it and it lost ZERO horsepower, made ~255 rwkw both ways. I have never seen that before, a cat always looses power to a straight through pipe, even the best hi flow 3" ones loose a little bit. Our dyno guy checked it twice, 'cause he didn't believe it either. They must have an upper limit, where a straight through 3" pipe is better, but it is more than 250 rwkw, that's for sure.

Oh dear, I would never give my Skyline to a valet:spew: Your own rev limit should be set to protect the engine anyway. For the others, a quick turn down of the boost should do it. A normally aspirated 2.0/2.5/2.6 isn't very interesting to drive. :confused: