Sydneykid

While I was fitting the rear Bilsteins, I thought I would take some pictures of the rear suspension and show the camber and toe adjusters. In this picture of the RHS rear suspension, the camber adjuster is on the inner end of the upper control arm and the toe adjuster is on the inner end of the tie rod. Note the yellow and white factory marks near the toe adjuster. This is closer shot of the LHS rear camber adjuster, it is is the mid position as shown by the hole being verticle. I wanted less negative camber as ours had almost 1 degree. Full adjustment brought that down to 0.25 degree. That should improve the rear tyre wear and increase the traction. Rotating the adjuster so that the hole (in the wide side of the washer) is towards the wheel means more negative camber. Rotating it so the hole is towards the diff means less negative camber. Having the hole on the bottom means that you get more change to negative camber as the rear end squats (under acceleration). Having the hole to the top means less change to negative camber as the rear end squats. Hope that is of some help.

Just in case anyone missed it, Stageas have forged wheels as standard

Yep, you can do that, or fit an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and turn it down (instead of up, as is normal to increase the fuel flow). But that changes the whole fuel map, and I have yet to see a standard ECU Skyline that needs to run leaner everywhere, they always need either to be little richer or stay the same at many load points.

Hi David, you have the vacuum hose layout correct. As for standard, one vaccum hose goes from the intercooler return to the wastegate via a T piece. The other vacuum hose off the T, goes to the solenoid so it can bleed off some boost. The bleed (outlet of the solenoid) goes back into the inlet to the turbo (via the BOV pipe). The solenoid is a normal fully closed and so no airflow passes to the wastegate actuator whne no current is supplied. That gives you the most boost the turbo can supply at that time. To lower the boost, the solenoid pulses and lets some airflow to the wastegate actuator so it opens and controls the boost. This may not lower it, it might stop it from going any higher or slow down its rate of increase. It depends on how much the solenoid opens. Since the Jaycar design is in series with the wastegate actuator, it is the best I have seen at controlling the boost increase. It ensures absolutely zero boost gets to the wastegate actuator, so it stays closed until the controller tells the solenoid to let some airflow pass through it. Other designs (electronic and bleed valves) are parallel to the wastegate actuator, so a little boost always finds its way to the wastegate actuator. Hope that helps:cheers:

Hi Dave, the lowerlimit is the wastegate activator spring rate (in the case of a Stagea that's ~0.3 bar) plus the little bit of pressure that escapes out the bleed off restrictor (in the case of the Stagea around 0.1 bar). Yep, the max is whatever the turbo can make, I have seen over 1.5 bar with the standard turbo (not that it would alst long very long with that sort of load. Interestingly, that is more than I have seen with any other standard turbo, this is because this type of boost controller (solenoid location actually) that uniquely ensures that ZERO boost gets to the wastegate actuator. I have yet to see another style that does that, they all let a little boost pressure go to the wastegate actuator.

I am not sure that there is a "point", more like the font rate slowly catches up to the rear as you increase the rear spring rate. The changeover occurs when the rear can't tolerate any more spring rate and traction is reduced. Personally I don't see a need for rear springs much over 250 lbs per inch. You really have to be using full on racing slicks before the car will benefit from a higher spring rate than that. Even using "R" type tyres, 250 is at the upper reaches. However on the front there is benefit up to 400 lbs provided you can tolerate the ride deterioration and the roads (even tracks) are smooth enough. So maybe you could says the change over point is around 200 to 250 lbs per inch in the rear. Don't go any higher there, but you can go higher in the front. Hope that answers your question:cheers:

Looks like it angles the gauges, good move. OK need more details, where from how much etc?

That web site is painful to use, I searched up and down, left and right, I can't find a single gauge pod for an R33 GTST. I can find a univeral one for ~$20, is that it? Hi J , I vote for black POD and black gauge.

Hi what tyres were you using for those times?

I have yet to see a single RB25DET with standard ECU that goes lean when you turn the boost up. They start off rich when standard and just get richer the more boost you add. PS; the cheapest way I know to lean them out is with a Jaycar Digital Fuel Adjuster, take a look at the Stagea thread for details.

Refer to Reason #1, the stock front springs might be softer, but the front tyres don't see it that way.

Picture?

Hi Guys, posted this in the suspension section, but it probably belongs here more.... I have a little ongoing test for the Stagea handling improvements. One of my heighbours has a Forrester GT manual (exhaust & boost), we both leave for work at similar times and travel the local winding road which has 15 corners in 1 km. When I first got the Stagea I couldn't keep up, he would gradually get away no matter how hard I pushed. When I put the stabiliser bars on I could just hang on, with a bit of effort. He was impressed. I upped the boost last week (to 0.7 bar) and I could then pull up to him on acceleration between the corners. This morning, with the Bilsteins in, he was slowing me up in some of the corners. He was mightly impressed. Next week, if we meet up, I will have the rear Bilsteins in and the A/F ratios tuned, so I will lead for the first time and see if he can keep up.

I am using the ashtray space in mine for the 2.5" boost and exhaust gas temperature gauges. The stereo will soon be single din, so I am hoping some 2" gauges will fit there.

Auto or manual?

Castrol Formula R Synthetic 10W60 or 0W40 depending on the engine tightness and what you use it for:cheers: