Sydneykid

In my humble opinion, absofarkinglutely. :kick: It still rains sometimes (today for example) and there are dirty, greasy, bumpy roads out there in the real world. Then you have the power up capacity, there aren't many chassis out there that can easily handle double the standard power output. R33 and R34 GTR's are certainly more likely (than R32 GTR's) to save your ass if you overcook it. But R32 GTR's are much more fun to drive. If you don't want to or don't have the skill/training to use it as it was intended, then a GTR is a waste of time. But the same applies to any number of other cars.

On the Power FC menu (accessed via the COmmander) you can set the rev limit to where ever you want. But the bottom line for me is, if I can't trust the workshop not to thrash the car, then why would I trust them to fix/service it properly? Better to find a workshop you do trust.

Cutting it at the welds isn't a big issue, especially since it is already stuffed. Flanged cat is much simpler though. The real issue is what caused it to die so quickly, even the crappiest cat shoudln't do that. What sort of A/F ratios are you running? As for superior cat converterss I recently tried out one of the 4" Magic cats, it worked very well, cost around $500. They don't come with flanges, so they have to be welded on, any decent exhaust shop can do it.

I strongly suggest an upgraded transmission cooler, I posted up a thread on my installation. Have a look there. Our Stagea gets to 0.3 bar at 2,250 rpm when held against the foot brake. It then starts to wheelspin, just the back wheels only. The front brakes, being much bigger, can hold the front wheels and stop them from turning. Ours is currently stock standard, exhaust, intercooler, fuel, even the air filter is standard so it only gets ot 0.4 bar max. I imagine with only the exhaust upgraded you could get even more boost holding against the torque converter. As soon as I take my left foot off the brake and flatten the accelerator, boost jumps to 0.4 bar. So a higher RPM stall converter is not on my list at the moment, more boost will do fine. As RBNT suggested, Stageas are heavy (ours is 1,658 kgs with zero fuel), that's 140 kgs more than the GTR. So the inertia is always going to make them a bit tardy off the line. Hope that makes sense:cheers:

Some quick notes; R32 has hydraulic HICAS and R33 has electric, most Stageas don't have HICAS at all (hooray). So you can't use an R33 or Stagea power steering pump in an R32 with HICAS. What are you doing about the VVT? You will need R33 loom and ECU for it to work. Boost Control? I would suggest using the R32 wastegate actuator (no RB25 parts) Sump? Oil pickup? Is it a 2wd RB25 or 4wd? What ECU are you using? What dashboard? If all R32, then use ALL R32 sensors off the RB20. Tailshaft? Does that mean you are swapping to an RB25 gearbox as well? Then you will need to make up a hybrid speedo sender, using RB25 internals and RB20 cable connection (RB25's have electronic senders). There is a thread on how to do it. What exhaust? The exhaust bracket at the gearbox is different, it will need to be modified. Don't leave the weight of the exhaust hanging off the turbine housing, it will break. That's all I can remember, hope it is of some hlep:cheers:

This is a post from the Stagea section, it is relevant in that it shows what sort of temperature you get at the air filter. Note that for every 8 degrees celsius uncrease in inlet air temperature you can loose as much as 5% in horsepower. So 61 degrees minus 32 degree = 29 degrees more than ambient. That's around 17% loss of horsepower................... Everday I had time it wasn't hot, but yesterday was a ripper 30+ degrees and I was driving around in traffic and on the freeway. Stagea air snorkel scoop temperature test. The Ambient Temperature (AT) sensor was placed in the air stream just behind the grill. The Air Filter Temperature (AFT) sensor was placed on top of the air filter in the standard airbox. The testing process was; 1. I parked the car facing the sun for 2 hours. 2. I then drove at 50 kph max without stopping for 1 minute 3. I then drove at 70 kph max without slowing/stopping much for 5 minutes 4. I stopped with cars around, at the traffic lights & checked the temps just before I drove off 5. I checked the temps again after 10 seconds of driving 6. I then drove for 10 minutes at up to 110 kph, these are the minimum temps I saw 7. I then drove around a parking lot very slowly for 1 minute and checked the temps as soon as I stopped Test AT.... AFT 1... 33.7... 64.5 2... 32.5... 40.3 3... 31.8... 35.4 4... 32.5... 61.4 5... 32.8... 52.5 6... 31.8... 33.2 7... 32.2... 55.0 My observations on the results; Anybody who thinks its OK to have a POD with no heat shield and no ambient air feed needs to read this. I was measuring the temperature of the air itself, not the temperature of the things that the air goes through/around. Just because the airbox itself is hot, doesn't mean the air inside it is equally as hot. It doesn't take very long for the air to heat up, but it takes a lot longer for it to cool down. I am satisfied that the scoop design works as intended Pictures The first is the temperature sensor probe inside the airbox The second is the ambient air temperature sensor probe, I taped it behind the grill during the tests The third is the temp displays themselves, they are handy things to have, cost ~$35 each from Jaycar. They don't react super quickly to temperature changes, the probes are quite large, they take a little bit of time to cool down themselves. So I think the actuals results of test 5 are quite a bit better than what the gauge showed. Hope this is of some help:cheers:

I have never seen or heard of an SAFC having a localised problem, runs OK at some RPM's and not at others. They either work perfectly or fail completely (through incorrect wiring). So I suspect outside factors; My first point of call would be a dirty AFM. Try cleaning it with brake cleaner. Second would be a bad connection between the SAFC and the ECU. Removing the SAFC means the connection is no longer there, so that's why it runs OK now. Idle is low voltage from the AFM (input), and a failing connection lowers the voltage some more, that's why adding 20% (increasing the output voltage) overcame the problem. Lastly, I have seen a faulty alternator/battery (or a big stereo load) cause idling problems. As desribed above, the voltage gets too low at idle. Maybe check the alternator output and the battery just in case. Hope that helps:cheers:

Your kidding, right? There are two BIG problems with SR's, rockers and alloy block. By the time you spend the money fixing those properly, I could have build 2 or 3 good RB's. Shoot I would much rather have a CA than an SR, an RB is in another league entirely.

Copied from previous post.... Power FC (for a manual) is an interesting question, I am not sure whether I would go for an R34GTT or R34 GTR Power FC. Each has its own issues. The R34 GTT Power FC may not have the necessary 4wd outputs. On the other hand the R34 GTR Power FC will expect to see 2 X AFM's and it won't have output for the infinitely variable VVT. I have run a GTR Power FC with one AFM, I simply parralled up the inputs, that way the PFC thinks both AFM's are showing the same voltage (airflow). But the VVT issue is much harder to overcome. Bottom line, I would ask Apexi which Power FC they suggest.

High rpm stall converter and an upgraded valve body. Do you have a big transmission cooler? When they get hot they slip more, that makes the oil even hotter and they slip even more. What boost are you seeing at the 2,300 rpm launch?

IT = Inlet Temperature AT = Ambient Temperature RH = Relative Humidity RR = Ramp Rate BP = Barometric Pressure CK = Check sum (formula to validate these settings) Re traction problems, Teins, what's the rear spring rate? Usually I find it WAY to high. Anything over 200 lbs per inch (3.5 kg/mm) is too much.

The race GTR weighs 1,510 kgs, with similar stuff removed as the GTST. It's weight distribution is is almost exactly 70/30 as it has the ATTESSA, front diff and drive shafts all in the front half of the car. So we can't get its weight distribution to be better than the GTST:cheers:

Check the Stagea section to see what I am doing. Dan, isn't yours an R34 GTT? With the tiptronic?

All of the engine hard parts (cams, pulleys, injectors, exhaust manifold, FMIC, pipework etc ) for R34GTT will fit. So it is not necessary for parts suppliers to list them separately. The only physical difference is wheelbase, that's why the exhaust is listed separately. Power FC (for a manual) is an interesting question, I am not sure whether I would go for an R34GTT or R34 GTR Power FC. Each has its own issues. The R34 GTT Power FC may not have the necessary 4wd outputs. On the other hand the R34 GTR Power FC will expect to see 2 X AFM's and it won't have output for the infinitely variable VVT. I have run a GTR Power FC with one AFM, I simply parralled up the inputs, that way the PFC thinks both AFM's are showing the same voltage (airflow). But the VVT issue is much harder to overcome. Bottom line, I would ask Apexi which Power FC they suggest.

Hi guys, think about the table analogy. What you are trying to do (with corner weighting) is to stop the table rocking diagonally. You can either lengthen the short leg or shorten the other diagonal legs. Either way it will stop the table from rocking. If you have a big pot of soup on one end of the table, moving it around won't stop the table from rocking. Getting the diagonals to total the same weight is what we are trying to do with corner weighting. So whether the car has 50/50 front to rear (or left to right) weight distribution is not something you can change with corner weighting. You simply want to get the diagonals to total the same weight. Our race GTST is 62% front and 38% rear and weighs a little over 1200 kgs. It has had all the usual stuff removed, spare wheel, jack, tool kit, boot carpet, rear seats, air con etc. Note that most of that stuff is from the rear of the car. Then I added a bigger engine, gearbox, oil cooler, FMIC, remote filter, extra 3 litres of oil in the sump, larger radiator, bigger front brake rotors, twin plate clutch etc. Most of that weight is in the front, so that's why it ends up at 62/38, it was around 59/41 standard. You have to physically move stuff to change the weight distribution (front to rear or left to right). This is why circuit race cars have lots of stuff moved from the front to the rear. Battery, dry sump tank, oil cooler pumps, filters, surge tanks (for fuel), brake fluid reservoires, etc etc. The big one is the engine itself, it's heavy, so moving it as much rearward in the engine bay as possible can be quite worthwhile. When you consider the driver is seated in the right hand side, you also need to make sure that there is as much weight moved to the left hand side in an attempt to compensate. So if I put the battery in the boot, I make sure it is on the left hand side. I see so many Skylines where the fuel system (pumps, filters, tanks) is on the right hand side of the boot. It may be easier to put it there, but it would be better for weight distributioin if it was on the left hand side. Hope that helps some more:cheers:

You may have simply been lucky, the valves may not have been open sufficiently. So when you rotated the crankshaft. the valves where not protruding and didn't get hit. To test interference you really should put the crank at TDC and rotate the camshafts.

I though it might be handy if I added the ECU pins I intend to use; Fuel Adjuster; Red = 12 volts + * Pin 31 Black = 12 volts - * Pin 32 Green = input from AFM * the cut wire that used to go to Pin 54 Black = output to ECU (where the AFM used to be connected)* Pin 54 Boost Controller; Red = 12 volts + * Pin 31 Black = 12 volts - * Pin 32 Green = input from injector * Pin 101 (cylinder #1) Black = output to the standard solenoid * the cut wire that used to go to Pin 104 I have now fully tested them and the connections are as posted above.

As you can see I have finished building the kits, the boost controller was the last one. It took around 1.5 hours to build. If I get time i will connect them up over the weekend, I will leave the fuel at zero (no correction) until I get time on the dyno. But I might give the boost a tweak straight away. If I do, I will post up the results. Regardless I will do before and after runs on the dyno. It took me around 3 hours to fully read the instructions and background theory, then build the Fuel Adjuster and calibrate it. Then about 1 hour to build the Controller and about 1.5 hours to build the Boost Controller. All up around 5.5 hours of easy, no rush work. There is a bit of set up (calibration) involved in the Fuel Adjuster. The Controller has no set up, just adjust the display brightness. The Boost Controller has to be set up (calibrated) in the car, but it looks pretty simple. There are only 8 connections to be made in the car, and the power supplies (+ and - 12 volts) are common, so that's really only 6 connections. I will make them all at the ECU, saves running wires under the bonnet. If someone has access to a good copy of the Stagea ECU pin out, this thread would be a good place to put it up. The connections are; Fuel Adjuster; Red = 12 volts + Black = 12 volts - Green = input from AFM Black = output to ECU (where the AFM used to be connected) Boost Controller; Red = 12 volts + Black = 12 volts - Green = input from injector Black = output to the standard solenoid PS; the Jaycar guys asked me to rate the kits when I was in there yesterday. Well I rate them as one of the best kits I have assembled, good instructions with pictures, easy to read, well laid out boards and all required components are included. I am no electronics engineer, and I had no problems. "Highly Recommended" would be my summing up.

My opinion, for what is it worth. The spring rates are too high for Australian conditions. PS; Maybe that will bring a response.......

My opinion, in order to get the benefit (from the increased octane) Nulon are saying that you may have to advance the ignition timing. The "warning" is "don't ring us and complain if you haven't tried advancing the ignition timing". You could also interpret it as "just adding this into your fuel tank doesn't mean you will get a power increase". While I am doing this post I might as well give you my 20 cents worth on octane boosters. I have no doubt that if I add an octane booster it will increase the octane rating of the fuel. That's a chemical test and easy to verify. But (there is always a but) that doesn't mean my car is going use that increase in octane rating ie; produce more power. Since my car is tuned perfectly (no, I didn't tune it) to run on Optimax, then is is very unlikely that I will get even 1 horsepower increase from simply sticking some octane booster in the tank. Yes, I have tried it and on more than one car. Maybe if the car is tuned badly, already pings for example, I might get a power increase. The current tune has to be too far advanced, too much boost and too lean for the fuel the car is currently running, and that combination is not common in the Skylines that I have seen. They are generally exactly the opposite, too retarded and too rich. In order to get more power I have to retune it, spend a couple of hundred dollars, a bit more ignition timing here, a bit less fuel there, maybe a bit of extra boost etc etc. The result, I have completely different ignition and fuel maps to take advantage of the octane booster. The best power increase I have seen was 18 rwkw out of a pretty highly tuned engine, not bad. But (yes, another one) that means I have to run octane booster ALL of the time, otherwise it pings its head off and feels a bit flat in certain rpm/load ranges. This is not good for engine life. So what happens if I run out of octane booster? What happens if I forget to add it? What happens if someone else fills up the car? What happens if the shop runs out? What happens if they discontinue it? What happens if they change (improve) the formula? Do I have to carry my lapt top with me all the time to upload the non octane booster maps? Bottom line for me is, I get the best out of the fuel I can easily buy pretty much everywhere. I stick a bottle of octane booster in the boot when going on a trip just in case I have to buy some other fuel. Although even that is becoming redundant these days. Hope that makes sense:cheers:

I have used several of these on RB20/25/26's with all sorts of turbos (big, small, twins) and they always work perfectly.

Pictures?

Yes:cheers:

There are several issues here; 1. You are not the seller, only the seller can post 2. You haven't put up a price that you will definitley sell it for 3. If you want an auction go to Ebay 4. It has no cat provision, so it is illegal to use on a road car. Anybody who buys it will have the same problem as you. The max fine is like $20K, so be careful. 5. It takes a pretty decent engine to need a 4" exhaust. I have seen 400 rwkw out of a 3.25" exhaust, so the market for a 4" is pretty small. 6. If you put a 4" exhaust on an engine that can't use it, it will simply create more noise and make less power at the same time due to low exhauts velocity. 7. Being titanium, it is not easy to find someone who can modify it to take a cat. Plus titanium welders don't grow on trees, like mild or stainless welders. 8. Titanium exhausts had a premium price a couple of years ago, they are a bit "so what" now. I can buy a new, nice one for $1400 (one that's legal). Personally I believe a used one, that requires mods to make it legal, is probably worth ~$700 to ~$1,000. If your dad wants more than that then "tell him he is dreaming" (to quote a popular film).

Shoot, that's what happens when you reply at 2.13AM. That's why the sign says "I don't know everything":cheers: PS, Yeh the Power FC will give you ~40 rwkw and a much nicer car to drive at the same time.