Sydneykid

Hi Luke, there are a few guys on here that have done auo to manuals conversion, thye can give you the details. I would suggest that if you really want a manual that you buy one in the first place. As for driving impressions on Stageas there is a thread on it, with quite a few guys input, I suggest you have a read. As for a direct comparison to R33 GTST, well the Stagea is 4wd, same as a GTR. They are heavy, mine is 1660 kgs, so they don't feel as nimble as a GTST. Obviously they are a waggon, so the rear CofG is higher than a coupe or a 4 door. I have upgraded the stabiliser bars to compensate for that. Due to the weight and 4wd, in the wet they are awesome, it is simply all traction. Add some upgraded shocks (Bilsteins in my case) and a handfull of alignment products (adj camber & caster) and the handling is very good. Much better than most cars and streets ahead of any other waggon. Obviously the engine benefits exactly the same from mods like any RB25DET. Since you have traction in all circumstances, they can take advantage of ALL of those increases in power. Hope that answered your question.

If you are experiencing excessive inside treead wear then you have too much negative camber, I would respectfully suggest a wheel alignment is in order.

Have a look at S14/15 200 SX injectors fit straight in and good for ~265 rwkw. My next step after that would be camshafts, Tomei 256 Poncams.

Try www.dba.com.au PS; 2 piston calipers? Our R34 GTT has 4 piston calipers on the front. It does have 2 piston calipers on the rear though, but they aren't very big.

Michelin:cheers:

I get about 10,000K's out of the Yokohama A032R's, driving around the streets. But 2 race meetings (400ks')and they are shot:cheers:

Believe it or not, the solenoid Sillycoon Chump recommend is the Nissan, just like the one on the Stagea. The instructions even have a picture of it. So stick up a "wanted" on the forum, there are plenty of R33 GTST's with EBC's that aren't using their standard solenoids. Shoot why did I say that, now the price will go up. Just like the R32 GTST wastegate actuators, they used to be cheap and plentiful until I opened my big mouth:kick:

Oh no, I was a roady. Not pretty enough to be a DJ. And yet not quite nerdy enough to hide in the back room soldering all day.:cooldance

OK, I wil try and balance this, just a bit...... Our S1 cost ~$16K, for a similar S2 I would be looking at ~$30K. For the ~$14K difference I could get my S1 performing and handling better than an S2. In fact for less than half that, I'll bet I can.

I popped into Jaycar yesterday and purchased the kits for; The Independant Electronic Boost Controller [/url] Digital Fuel Adjuster The Hand Controller for Digital Projects And the RS232 cable to join the Hand Controller for mapping/programming It has been about 3 years since I built my last electronics kit (a 400 watt sub woofer amp and processor for the home stereo). So I figured I would start with the easy one, the Hand Controller. Instructions where very explicit, quite easy to read and the pictures are very clear. Certainly a big improvement over the DJ stuff (sound and light) that I used to build to help pay the uni fees. Including reading the instructions and the basic electronic theory, it took me less than 2 hours to build the Hand Controller. I will post up some pictures tonight.

I have one of those big plastic storage boxes (Bunnings ~$10) tied down with occy straps for small things, just chuck them in. I have spare occys (pack of 10 from SupaCrap ~$6) for large stuff:cheers:

Thanks for that, off to the local Auto One store I go......will post pictures when fitted.

Sorry the GTR that had the original RB30DET in it is long gone, it was sold 4 years ago. Almost finished a new RB31DET for the R32GTST, maybe when it is finished. The 3 litres with DOHC have so much torque in the light R32 GTST, you won't notice any slight doughyness.

Oh my, so many questions in one post GTST, lucky for you I am patient. Most people would just tell you to look up the thread as it is all there. My suggestions follow your questions; To measure seat pressure you need a valve spring pressure tester anda dial gauge. RB26DETT valve springs are rated to handle boost, so 15 psi stronger than an N/A valve spring. RB26DETT valve springs are rated to handle 8,000 rpm, so another 10 psi stronger to hande that higher rpm. You can't fit GTR valve springs to RB25 cylinder heads. They are different heights and diameters. For example RB25 vlave springs are shorter to allow for the hydraulic followers. You would have to change the complete valve train, cams valves, valve springs, colletts, followers and shims. No problems, it will be bit doughy with compression that low. Yep It is about 30 seconds work with the die grinder and it is bloody obvious. Just the tips of the lumps on the gallery down the side of the engine. Just a small bend. makes no difference, Ceramic coating, see previous post. But you are not using the stock head. Nope Preparing usually means balancing and grinding off any small imperfections. Balancing is very important, the rest is debateable as to benefit. Polishing the bearing surfaces. Not really, you can pick a really stuffed one when you pull it apart, it will be all scored and marked. To pick a slightly worn one get your machine shop to measure it up internally. Yep Yep Yep, but the tuner really needs to know his stuff Motec M4A Sorry can't help, I used the RB20 inlet manifold, GTR injectors ands rail Sorry can't help, I never use plain bearing turbos Garret GT3040 R33/34 GTR shooooot yes. Yep but you might find the rubber pipe from the AFM to the turbo gets sucked closed. Best replaced with an alloy one. See Bass he is making them. Hard to beat those standard GTR BOV's. One pipe back to the inlet. Yep The amount of water you would have to carry might slow the car down. Plus what happens when you run out of water? Hot engine? Ours used a SubZero Plenum and went straight in, no engine mount mods. Also had a big Whiteline stabiliser bar (standard shape) The RB26 cylinder headed RB31DET's fit straight in as well Thank heavens, my fingers where wearing out:cheers:

We ceramic coat the piston crowns, the valve heads, the combustion chambers and the exhaust ports. We also oil retention coat the piston skirts.

Hi Conrad, I have seen 1,100+ ps on a pair of Q45 AFM's (90 mm), I don't believe there is a power limit. You simply use bigger AFM's, I have seen 100+ mm AFM's, a pair of those would be good for 1400+ ps. An AFM measures the airflow going into the engine. A MAP sensors measures pressure and the ECU works out the airlfow using throttle position and rpm. So a MAP sensor driven ECU can never be as accurate at finely measuring ariflow as an AFM driven ECU. This is most noticeable at low rpms, cold start, cold run, stop start, traffic, air con on, power steer, electrical load etc etc. A MAP sensor driven ECU can be tuned to give as much max power, but it is so much harder to get the car to run "nice". Sometimes it is simply not possible, this is most noticeable in GTR's as they have multiple throttle bodies. It is almost impossible to get a decent/accurate/consistent pressure signal to feed the MAP sensor. My recommendation for all road/combo cars is the Power FC, GTR's make good power wit them and run as "nice" as with the standard ECU. The car that makes 1100 ps with the AFM's runs a Power FC (BTW, it does 8's at ~165 mph). Hope that helps:cheers:

Hi Sean, we use Elf LMS, almost as good as TurboMax but not as nasty to use. PS; there is a big thread on race fuels, you should have a read of it.

There is absolutely no doubt that the circumference of the tyres should be very close to the same front and rear. I say "very close" because there has to be some allowance for wear, otherwise it would be necessary to buy 4 tyres all at once, all of the time. A worn out tyre is 3% ot 5% smaller in circumference than a brand new tyre. This applies equally to cars with LSD's, the tyres on the same axle should have the same circumference. But it don't think the width of the tyres makes any difference to the ATTESSA system. Nor do I think wheel offsett is relevant either. It is worth noting that the same size tyre from different tyre manufacturers can have differing circumferences ie; a 245/40/17 from Yokohama is different to a 245/40/17 from Hancook.

Generally speaking tyre services will only adjust the toe. I strongly suggest you go to a suspension specialist. The two places in Qld that have the Whiteline parts for doing the camber and caster are; Fulcrums Suspension 28 - 40 Evesham Street Moorooka QLD 4105 Phone: 07 38929000 Fax: 07 38921526 www.fulcrumsuspensions.com.au GSA Wholesale Suspension. 7 Aranda St Slacks Creek QLD 4127 Ph: 07 3808-4698 Fax: 07 3808 1770 [email protected] Hope that helps:cheers:

That's $210 each, so that's $15 each less than UAS. How much does UAS charge for freight?

Well David, that is not an easy question to answer, I have no idea how you drive. If you drive like a woooooos then 1 degree of negative camber is too much. If you drive agressively some of the time, then 1 degree is about right. If you drive like a lunatic all of the time, then 1 degree isn't enough. A lot of caster does not cause anywhere near as much tyre wear as a lot of camber. Or a lot of toe, either in or out. Hope that helps:cheers:

$210 plus delivery.

Bilsteins plus Whiteline coil spings $1200.

I haven't measured it up yet but I am hoping to put one of these in the spare (Din) space If it does't quite fit it won't matter, I don't use the ashtray, so it can go down there.

Time to upgrade the stereo, didn't J post up a "how to" somewhere on the forum?