Sydneykid

Agree:cheers:

If you mean machining, no we get 10 mm before I have to spend 10 seconds for each lobe slightly relieving the casting. It's no big deal, I did the clearance for the 10.8 mm lift Jun 272/280 cams in less than 20 minutes with the die grinder. That included set up and wash up time, piece of cake. If you mean valve springs, I always change them in RB26 cylinder heads. The standard springs are too soft for my taste, not enough seat pressure. At the very least I would shim them up.

I see that word "ALARM", always worries me that the fuel cut is fuel cutting when it shouldn't be. Then I see the words "TURBO TIMER", and I just go AHHHHHH and stop posting:cheers:

And what are you going to use it for?

You should have asked first. A lot......well I think so anyway. More to do with response and earlier boost build than outright power at one single rpm point. Although I did see a noticeable improvement above 5,000 rpm on the R34GTT when I went from a single/combined dump to a split dump using a GCG ball bearing hi flow turbo. This would seem logical considering the lack of turbulance at the turbine as a result of separating the wastegate exhaust. On the GTR's, we found having the separations for longer made a similar difference at the higher rpms. That's why I don't use the shorty (HKS style) spilt dumps, I prefer the combined dump and engine pipe as it allows for a more realistic separation (over 300 mm for example).

Oh no, the Tomei Poncams work fine, just no better than others I have used. I like the extra lift that Jun offer for the same duration. Adj camshaft pulleys are ALWAYS worthwhile on RB26's, that has been my experience anyway.

Welding is easy.

I keep telling the SA guys to get their cars registered in Vic, Nelson is a nice town, just over the border, post office boxes are cheap and mail redirection inexpensive. PS, NO GOVERNMENT can legislate your rights away under Common Law, you ALWAYS retain those rights.

The Tomei poncams are great for RB25's and I wouldn't use anything else in them. But I have found very little difference (if any) in RB26 cams. Thus far I have developed a preference for Jun, with the 264 duration and 9.7 mm lift for using in a combo (road/race) engine. We use the 272/280 with 10.8 mm lift in the race engines. They both benefit from adjusting the camshaft timing to suite individual engines, unlike the Tomei Poncams in the RB25's which don't seem to need any adjusting.

R32's came with the RB25DE so all capacity increases can be taken from a 2.5 litre base not 2.0 litres. As far as I am aware that would make the 3.0 litre (20%) an OK capacity increase in the states that I know of.

We are well over 400 rwkw and do many more gearchanges and spend longer in each gear in a 20 minute race than the drag car does in 100 passes. We don't have as much traction though, so you may have a little more headroom left. But I would start saving the pennies now:cheers:

It depends on the compression ratio you want, how big the combustion chambers are when their volume is equalised, the gudgeon pin height (offset bush) and the head gasket thickness. If you use a non offset (gudgeon pin) bush, 0.8mm head gasket, 52 cc combustion chambers and want an 8.5 to 1 compression ratio, then you take 1 mm of the block deck height. It's no big deal and not something you can work out in advance, you have to measure it all up before you deck the block. And remember EVERY engine is different. PS don't rely on the combustion chamber volume yet, I remember it as 52 cc's but I will check my book and come back and ammend this post if it is different.

That's one hose from the LHS cam cover to the can (that's why the label says "connection hose" not "connection hoses"), I couldn't be bothered colouring it in. As for blocking off, Clark rubber has a slection of bungs, and I use the standard clamps. A bolt of the right diameter and thread is the go for replacing the PVC valve.

It's only a simple pin broken on the selector rod. It is NOT a sign of gearbox weakness, we get it when the clucth drags (doesn't fully dissengage) and you have to push it to get reverse, enventually it breaks the pin. Replace it and keep using the GTR box until you have enough power and traction to take the teeth off 3rd or 4th gear. Then you have reached the limit of the standard gearbox The most cost effective upgrade I have found is the Pfitzner (PPG) close ratio dog engagement (replacement) internals for ~$A7K ($US5,500). The Japanese close ratio sets are still synchro and so only provide a marginal improvement. If I remember rightly Theo uses PPG in his 9 second GTR, as well as we use PPG's in the circuit race cars. www.ppgearbox.com.au Hope that is of some help:cheers:

You got it, and fill 'er right up to the filter:cheers:

How often are you guys checking your tyre pressures? Every car I have ever owned had sloooooowly decreasing tyre pressures, some worse than others. Brnad of tyres makes no difference they all leak something. I check mine once a week after I get them, then once a month if they haven't gone down noticeably after a few weeks.

Welcome to the ever expanding family of Stageas owners.......... 1. Open the bonnet and take a look, if it says "Neo" on the big plastic engine cover it's 206 kw. If it doesn't have a big plastic engine cover with Neo on it, it's 173 kw. 2. have a read of the "Jaycar DFA and IEBC" thread it will answer most of your questions. 1.

I have found the split dumps to be superior:cheers:

I have yet to find a 3" cat that is truly "hi flow", there is "low flow", "piss poor flow" and "hardly any flow at all". I am now using the Magic 4" cat, it flows almost as good a straight through 3" pipe. Nothing good is ever cheap.

Transmission coolers guys, make sure you upgrade:cheers:

PM sent on Tuesday, no response yet, did you get it?

Have a read of the Jaycar DFA and IEBC thread in the Stagea section, the DFA in function is identical tothe SAFC.

Here is a a post I prepared earlier, that a search found for me; --------------------------------------------------------------------------- When you put a car on a chassis dyno (roller or hub style) there are power losses, in the gearbox, the tailshaft universals, the diff, the driveshaft universals, the wheel bearings, the tyres and the rollers themselves. In a 2wd Skyline (like na R33 GTST) this works out around 50-60 kw, based on the cars we have tested. A couple of which we have also run up on the engine dyno confirm this. Obviously when you add a transfer case, front diff, front drive shaft universals, front tyres and the extra rollers you loose more power. Around 20-25 kw based on what we see with GTR's. So if you have a 280 kw engine, it will show around 220 rwkw and 200 awkw. I should point out that there are no "losses", Newtons law applies, "energy can neither be gained nor lost". So the 60 kw is not "lost" it is transformed into other types of energy, in the car's case that's generally heat. Hope that is of some help

Hi Mark, this subject has been discussed so many times in so many threads. I am not going to tell the whole story again, if you want more than this post do a post search, "Sydneykid" and "refinery". Oil companies have a policy called "refinery sharing/exchange" because it is simply not economical for each oil company to have a fully equiped refinery in each state. Refineries need volume to make money, it's that simple. Do a Google search on "oil refinery sharing", you will find ALL oil companies in Australia refinery share. The bottom line for you is, there is NO BP REFINERY IN MELBOURNE, so do you think they ship it in, millions of litres per week in tankers? Like hell, they refinery share and buy (swap) the fuel from a local refinery. If you want to know what refineries are in Melbourne (don't forget Geelong) look it up in your yellow pages. When you buy fuel at a BP servo, chances are you will be pumping fuel from one of those refineries not a BP refinery. The 4th paragraph from this page on the BP Australia web site tell it all.... "A particular feature of the Australian oil industry is the practice of refinery exchange, in which refining companies exchange products in various locations to minimise distribution costs. For example, BP supplies other companies in Perth and Brisbane and in return is supplied with product in Melbourne, Sydney and Tasmania."

I see where you are coming from Adrian, but I have yet to put an engine on the dyno and not find some power (either increase in max power or average power) by adjusting the camshaft timing on line. Obviously on something with difficult to adjust cam timing (eg; Chevy or Ford pushrod V8) I spend a lot more time getting the timing spot on. But on an RB enigne it is really waste of time as it is so quick on the dyno (engine or chassis). By all means check it after it is tuned, so that I have an aproximate starting point for the next similar RB engine. But my experience has been that every engine is different.