Sydneykid

Pump should make no difference to tune, the fuel pressure regulator sets the fuel pressuie not the pump.

Standard camber is around 0.25 to 0.5 negative on the rear and 0 to 0.25 negative on the front. As previously posted, I would aim for a bit more on the front, up to 1 degree negative is good. Go for as much caster as you can possibly get on the front, being 4wd you can't get enough adjustment. Toe is zero on the front and a little toe in, say 1mm each side on the rear.

Around 1400 bhp, if you have the support systems for it.

The big advantage is you use an RB26 block, so it's already 4wd enabled. It also has block mounted oil squirters, you have to do a lot of work to mount them in an RB30 block. You get to keep your original RB26 engine number. The OS Giken crank is forged and fully counterweighted, the standard RB30 crank is not. So you are looking at 10,000+ rpm, if you have the necessary support parts.

Nice work, how about posting up a list of the parts used? No AFM, what ECU are you using?

DBA's on mine, all round, work very well, no problems 3 years.

A $1,000 budget, hmmmmm....this is what I would do 1. Jaycar IEBC, DFA and Hand Controller $200 2. Used Jap 3" exhaust, $300 3. R34GTT Intercooler $150 4. R33GTST turbo $350 There is your $1,000 spent, you have to tunre it of course, but 160 rwkw should be achieveable. As for suspension, I would get a pair of Whiteline adjustable stabiliser bars, 27mm for the front and 24 mm for the rear. For drifting, set the front on soft and the rear of hard and get into it. Add a set of caster bushes and you have change from $600. Best bang for buck suspension mod ever. Hope that was of some hlep:cheers:

I would always got for low/rear mount in lieu of high/front mount as it puts the turbo in a better weight distribution position. Lower and rearward is definitely an advantage to the handling and braking performance. Plus it doesn't scream DEFECT, like a big shiny front mount in your face.

Burns covered it pretty well. I aim for around 0.5 mm negative camber on the rear and around 1 degree negative on the front. It depends on how much weight you carry, since mine spends some time with a load on, I have set the rear it at 0.25 degrees negative. That was using the standard adjuster set for the minimum negative ie; no need for Whiteline offset polyurethane bushes. Since you have already set the standard adjusters at their lowest negative setting and still have 2 degrees, then one set of rear camber bushes won't be enough. I suspect that you will need 2 sets, one for the inner upper and one for the outer upper. The Stagea Suspension thread has some relevant pictures. If the rear has that much neg camber, then the height must be low enough for the front to need checking as well. If you do need front camber adjusters, I STRONGLY suggest that you get a set of caster bushes at the same time. Adding a couple of degrees of postitive caster make a huge difference to the turn in and straight line stability, plus it adds a little weight/feeling to the steering.

The SAFC will do everything that the EManage does in regards to tuning the A/F ratios (as will the DFA). The only reason for choosing the EManage would be to try the ignition tuning option, but I have yet to see a dyno comparison that indicates success from that implementation. And at the same time retain the standard ECU programming for ignition retard on gearchanges in an auto. So if anyone has done it successfully, please post up the results.

Well the adjustable exhaust camshaft pulley arrived today, I ordered an Apexi one form Nengun originally, but they don't make them anymore. I had to settle for one of the new duralium HKS pulleys....... I weighed it (just out of interest) at 350 grams, from memory a standard pulley weighs around 550 grams. I already have the cambelt which is due for replacement......... So it's time to fit it up, more pictures and a how to do it guide will follow over the next few days. So watch this space cheers

Yep, but you can't run an engine with injectors at 100%, you need some overhead for acceleration enrichment and changing weather conditions. Around 80% is a good working maximum. My rule of thumb in a 6 cylinder engine is injector cc's = bhp 444cc's = 444 bhp divide by 1.34 for kw = 331 kw subtract 55 rwkw for 2wd losses = 276 rwkw or subtract 75rwkw for 4wd losses = 256 4wkw

I had the choice in the R32GTST; Rebuild the RB20DET Build an RB23DET (I had most of the bits, RB26 crank and rods and 4AGZE pistons) Stick an RB25DET in there (there was one on the floor) or an RB26DETT (needed 6 forged pistons, had all of the rest) Build an RB31DET (using the RB26 top end and an RB30 bottom end with forged rods and pistons) I went for building an RB31DET, the 55% increase in capacity and the average power potential that brings was too hard to resist.

Good time Ian, you must have had some fun.

Front spring rate is 560 lbs per inch (standard R32GTST is 125 lbs per inch) and the rear spring rate is 450 lbs per inch. Hope you never have to drive it on the road.

Remove HICAS, it is not your friend and check wheel alignment. Usually too much negative camber and tow out are the cultprits. Do a search on HICAs and all will be revealed. If you have a Japanese suspesnion kit, chances are the rear spring rate is too high as well.

If the springs rates are as per the above, then Bislteins would be my suggestion.

You can buy seraparate master cylinder braces, there is a picture of the Tomei one I used in the Stagea section.

Takes about 20 minutes, but you weill need a set of spring compressors. Have a look at the Stagea Suspension thread for pictures.

No, factory shocks when new are barely able to control the stanrd spring rates, they have no chance of controlling the ~30% higher spring rates needed in lowered coils. And I assume yours aren't new, they are throw away at around 60,000 k's. Plus you will be wasting the labour, the shocks have to come out to replace the springs and then they have out come out again to replace the shocks. If you are only looking at lowering, then my suggestion is to get a set of Bislteins shocks and use the circlip adjustment with the standard springs to achieve the desired height. Have a look at the Stagea Suspension thread for pictures and more details.

The LSD centres fit both 4.1 and 4.3 crown wheels. The R32 GTST's come with a 4.3 rear diff ratio.

Hi Chris, the maximum caster you can get is the target. Maybe a little more on the left than the right to allow for camber of the road. For a road car I would set the front camber at 1 degree negative and the rear camber at 0.5 degree negative. Front toe at zero is OK, I would have the resr slightly toe in, say 1 mm each side. Hope that helps:cheers:

The above is the default Power FC ignition map for an RB25DET, note the number of load points at 40, 41, 42 and 43 degrees. This is why the standard maps give such a responsive package, but are close to the knock window when run on lower ron fuel. Experienced tuners set the low load ignition timing by feel, however the starting point is as always "advance it till it pings and then knock it back a little". A/F ratio readings will go off as the best ignition timing points is past, but that is a long drawn out process. Tune it on feel is the quickest way I know off.