Sydneykid

We tried a GT30 on the R34GTT mounted to the standard manifold using an adaptor. It fitted in easily. If I remember rightly, Steve on here also had the same on an R33GTST making 300+rwkw. The HPI R34GTT had a GT3040 low mounted on a Croydon's custom exhaust manifold, around 310 rwkw if I recall correctly.

That could be true, if the Ambient Temperature and the Inlet Temperature are at the temperature that DD have selected as their "reference temperature". That's normal, and precisely what I would expect if the Ambient and Inlet Temps are hotter than the "reference temperature". It is exactly the same as dynoing your car in summer (335 rwkw) and then again in winter (360 rwkw). That should be interesting:cheers:

Do you have a solicitor chasing the money for you? If not PM me, I know a good one and a great barrister for that sort of stuff. Wow $8K, is that the cheapest TIG you could use for welding titanium? Or is that the Rolls Royce of welders? Can you use a normnal mandrel tube bender on titanium? No problems getting titanium from the US, depending on size of course. I reckon there is a business possibility, if you want to earn some money on the side.

I was hoping you would jump in Roy, I thought this might be up your alley. You have a customer if you want to go ahead. I haven't had much success fnding reasonably priced raw materials, ie; titanium pipe, thin and thick walled. How much are you looking at to buy the appropriate TIG? Not for production runs, but for small volume fabrication, exhausts, inlets that sort of stuff.

You're kidding, right? Our budget wouldn't buy the paint job on an Autosalon car. It's not about how much you spend, but what you spend it on. An example; Hey mate, for $700 I can get you lots more power, enough to improve your 1/4 times by 0.5 sec. How fast would you jump? :wassup: Compared to; Hey mate, for $700 I can do a wheel alignment that will improve your 1/4 times by 0.5 sec. Now how fast would you jump? :kick: We have to make that sort of decision all the time, what do we spend the limited money on to get the best result. Engine power bragging rights are pretty worthless, it's all about how long it takes to get from the start of the race to the end of the race.

Ok I give up, what's the difference between an RB25DET dump and an RB25DET NEo dump? :headspin:

The new one is an Apexi, it was at a good price as it is a bit LOUD for a road car. I haven't found anyone who does reasonably priced titanium welding in Australia. The aircraft guys charge aircraft prices. You can't weld titanium in atmosphere, it absorbs oxygen, nitrogen and hydrogen and gets brittle. If you are Tig welding it, you have to have an inert gas (eg; argon) surrounding the weld, both on the outside and the inside. And it must be maintained while the joint cools. This is not easy with pipe, you can use the usual shield on the outside but the inside would need to be sealed and filled with argon. Plus you have to use low moisture content argon. If anyone has found a good, reasonably priced titanium welder then please post them up. They will get some business.

Personally I would much rather have the superior performance of a low mount and use reliable turbos and high quality installation so that i don't have to work on them all the time. A well engineered low mount doesn't present much more of an access problem, don't get trapped into comparing a aftermarket high mount with the factory low mount. You really need to compare it to an aftemarket low mount. The superior performance is there all the time when I am driving it, any miniscule maintenance advantages is only there when I am not driving it.

Power FC, do a search, the logic of why is covered in a number of my posts.:

This one works great; They are no more difficult than any IRS with struts. The trick is to find out exactly how much it is going to squat, I use a video camera and cable ties on the shock shafts for that. Once you know, then you can simulate it on the wheel aligner by jacking it up and down with the rear springs out. You remove as much dynamic camber change as you can with the offsett bushes. Then you set the static camber so that the tyre contact patch is optimised at full squat. It's pretty simple really.

Use the 8 degrees = 5% rule of thumb. Need more info though.... 1. What is the ambient temperature (AT)? 2. What is the rwkw reading at the 15 degrees Inlet Temperature (IT)

Hi Lucien, we are trying one in the RX7 over the next couple of race meetings. So that will give me some confidence in spending the money on a Skyline one.

Easy; 1. Race tape aluminium plate under holes (on the inside) 2. Fill holes with Selleys crystal clear Araldyte (great stuff) 3. Smooth over with flat scraper 4. Remove the aluminium plate and race tape 5. Trim any excess Araldyte off with a razor blade 6. Cover with sticker of choice, 100% invisible

Shoot that's a bargain, freight is $2K, clearance usually costs $500, compliance is $4K, GST is 10%, Duty is 10%.......that means the car itself cost ~$4,750. That's a cheap one.

I use BCPR6ES-8 for normal use, maybe BCPR7ES-8 for sustained high speed or track use; B: Indicates 14mm thread diameter in the cylinder head. C: Hex size 5/8" P: Projected insulator type R: Resistor type 1-9: Indicates temperature (1 Hottest - 9 coldest) E: Indicates 19mm thread reach (approx 3/4") S: Standard (copper) 2.6mmø center electrode -8: Gap 0.8mm (0.032") If you can't get -8 then you will have to adjust the gap to 0.8 mm before you fit the plugs.

Shoot Out Mode (SOM) compensates for temperature differences. So a guy in Tasmania in winter should get the same power if he was in Cairns in summer. The old rule used to be 5% change in power for every 8 degrees change in temperature. I have no idea what DD apply for SOM correction.

Best I have seen was a 40rwkw gain. Least I have seen was a zero rwkw gain, that was with a Magic 4" cat. Pick a number:cheers:

1/3 tyre contact = poor wheel alignment settings + lack of anti squat geometry Nothing to do with springs.

It is applied lubricant retention, they will go "shiny" when run:cheers:

You can do the straight power to weigh calculation. 600 bhp / 1400 kgs = 2.33 kgs per bhp 600 bhp / 1200 kgs = 2kgs per bhp So to get the same power to weight ratio at 1400 kgs you would need 700 bhp We tend to look at it more in lap times, say 20 kgs = 0.1 seconds per lap. So if we take out 200 kgs = 1 second per lap. That means in a 30 minute race we would be the length of the main straight at Oran Park (or the back straight at Sandown) faster. That's a big winning margin.

Note "rearwards", not "in the boot". I see too many with the remote filter mounted just behind the headlight. At least mount it BEHIND the front wheels. It will fit next to the brake master cylinder, with a bit of a fiddle. Or where the ABS unit was, if there isn't one. In a 2wd we mount it where the front tailshaft goes, that's both rear and low. Catch can, it matters not how long the pipework is, it is only a breather after all. In fact the longer run allows time for the oil to condense out of the airflow. Plus it keeps the engine bay oil mist free. In the V8 Supercars the brake and clutch reservoirs are in the boot. Every little bit helps.

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Just saw the engine dyno sheet for one of our RB30DET's (RB30 + RB26) with GT35R at 1.3 bar made a nice 632 bhp.:headspin:

How much power are you targetting? If under 500 bhp, then SR20DET JDM manual injectors are worth considering.