Sydneykid

Whiteline have strut braces. Measure the distance between the inner bolts on the two rear shock towers and post it up, then we can compare it to a 3 door:cheers:

In an R33 what you have is an electric motor connected to a steering rack with no power going to the electric motor (no fuse). So the only thing stopping your rear wheels from steering is the resistance of the electric motor to rotation from the steering rack pushing against it. In addition, since the steering is not moving, all of the loads are being excerted in one spot on the rack, this will cause it to wear faster as it is not sharing the load. Hence you will get a sloppy spot on the rack which will enable the rear wheels to knock around slightly all the time. Bottom lin,. not a good idea

What you have is an electric motor connected to a steering rack with no power going to the electric motor (no fuse). So the only thing stopping your rear wheels from steering is the resistance of the electric motor to rotation from the steering rack pushing against it. In addition, since the steering is not moving, all of the loads are being excerted in one spot on the rack, this will cause it to wear faster as it is not sharing the load. Hence you will get a sloppy spot on the rack which will enable the rear wheels to knock around slightly all the time. Bottom line, not a good idea:cheers:

The DFA is pretty damn simple, side buttons move to different load points and the top and bottom buttons add or subract voltage to the AFM input on the ECU. The bottom button = lower voltage = less fuel = leaner. My suggestion would be to spend 5 minutes with the tuner showing him what the buttons do and what the screen shows. Our dyno guy picked it up in a few seconds of my explanation, so it ain't hard.:cheers

I am not a fan of spending money unless there is a benefit and I simply don't see any benefit in spending my money on a stronger belt when I have zero evidence that says I need a stronger belt. The stretch in the standard belt was minimal and it was 8 years and 105,000k's old. There were no real signs of distress, I am sure that belt would have lasted much longer. That's durability handled, for performance it would be better to go for an adjustable camshaft pulley so I can change the exhaust camshaft timing to compensate for any minor belt stretch over its life. Or simply change the belt more often. If I had a 3 bar, 10,000 rpm engine with mega valve spring rates, then maybe I could justify it. But even then I am not so sure.

Not all the time, a 215/65/14 is the pretty much the same diameter as a 225/50/16 or a 245/40/17 or a 285/30/18. Noting that the diameter varies as the tyres wear anyway.

Genuine cam belt = ~$90 HKS Pulley from Nengun = ~$185 Castrol Radiator concentrate fill = ~$9 Castrol Auto Trans fluid top up = ~$10 One day of my time = priceless On the same day I did an engine oil change, filter change, radiator flush and a full cooling system refill. Plus I bought a new harmonic balancer puller for ~$25, but I can use that again obviously.

Hi Rob, the way we do it is to do 2 power runs on the dyno, one with the VVT on and one with the VVT off. We then overlay the 2 graphs, that tells us exactly where the change over points should be. Even on fairly modified RB25DET's (305 rwkw) with Tomei Poncams, the standard change over points are pretty much spot on.

As Ian posted, width is irrelevant it is circumferance that matters. Otherwise the front wheels will doing different rpm at the same kph than the rear wheels. The ATTESSA clutches will have to slip to accommodate this, that generater unneccessary heat and wear.

They are basically worth nothing, the cost of repairing the shocks would exceed the cost of new ones. Plus the spring rates will most likely be far to high for local conditions, so you would need to buy new springs as well.

Hi Roy, what's the oil temp like?

Hi Peter, what plugs are you using? I have never had to go below 0.8mm with the NGK copper plugs. Don't stress over the VVT change over point, I have tried an RB25DET with a simple switch to turn the VVT solenoid power on or off. Ran it up on the dyno in the "off" position, then ran it up in the "on" postion. Overlaid the 2 power graphs and guess what? Nissan got the change over points perfectly correct.

Yep there was a Group A turbo from Garrett via Nissan for the R32GTR.

What car is this? Power FC's have no excessive airflow protection. They have no rich and retard programming like the standard ecu. Get it tuned:cheers:

Couple of tricks here..... From memory the R32 RB25DE (non VVT) had smaller combustion chambers than the R33 RB25DET. It has been 5 years, so don't count on it, best to measure it up first. If the RB25DE combustion chamber was the same size as the RB25DET combustion chamber, then you would get ~12 to 1 compression ratio with the extra stroke (capacity) provided by an RB30 crank ie 20% more capacity being squeezed into the same size combustion chamber.

Sorry, I really need more detailed explanation before I can offer any suggestions.

Hi Steve , I don't believe that you can, the data transfer rates are different as are the sensor voltages.

Hi Brad, wow that's a few questions, my suggestions follow; 1. ATTESSA is a torque sharing system, if the engine has say 200 ft lbs of torque output and the ATTESSA says 100% rear drive, then 200 ft lbs goes to the rear. If the ATTESSA says 20/80 then 160 ft lbs goes to the rear and 40 ft lbs goes to the front. Remember Newton's law, energy can neither be gained nor lost. 2. It depends on the G Forces, I guess a slow take off is 100% rear drive and the faster the take off (G Force) then more goes to the front. Though I have never seen it get to 50/50 on take off. The ATTESSA is smart anough (programmed) to know that the weight shift to the rear means it will have more traction there at high G Forces. 3. Yep it doesn't wait for wheelspin, the G Force sensor tells it there is less chassis acceleration than engine (rpm) accelleration and/or speedo accelleration. In a pure drag racing application, with a high power engine, the ATTESSA controller does not have the ideal programming. That's why the drag racing GTRs have manual controllers or add on electronics. 4. Zero hydraulic pressure = no preload on the clutch plates. 5. It is infinitely variable 6. At all times, when the engine is running, our Stagea has hydraulic pressure in the ATTESSA system. That pressure stays for some time after the engine is switched off. Sorry I can't help you with the error codes.

Limp home mode:cheers:

GTR injectors are ~444 cc's, that enough for 444 bhp, which is pretty close to the limit of a 450 bhp turbo. So they look OK to me.

For JD or JB, consider the order permanent. The consumption rate is one bottle per race meeting, that's 17 race meetings per year. The boys need a drink, they aren't camels you know. :alcoholic There is a separate JD budget, otherwise the natives get restless, what no JD :chairshot Busy week this week, the transporter is due back from Philip Island late tonight. Unpack tomorrow, dif ratio change, gearbox ratio change, engine swap. New ECU so a quick dyno check that the maps upload OK to the new version. Need to finsih revised cold air intake on the other car and then dyno it. Pack transporter Thursday for Oran Park Friday. The #1 mechanic gets back from China Wednesday, so it could be hectic. Let's talk at Oran Park, I need to drive it as it has similar mods to our new one.

Hi Marko this has been done so many times, a search would have given you the answer. 350 4wkw + 70 kw losses = 420 kw X 1.34 = 563 bhp ~70 kw for 4wd losses ~55 kw for 2wd losses Every car is different and so are dynos, if you want more information, try a search.

What are the rates of the springs?

Thanks Lucien, I have just about finished and updated the tools used etc, I think :confused: To all, please let me know if I haven't covered something that you might need to know:cheers: